Neb_16

First of all, it is more complicated than a weedwacker... How many weedwackers do you know of that have electronic ignition? Second, of all, I definitely did NOT purchase it from you. I am glad that i didnt, as now I see what kind of top notch customer service you offer. I came on this site to get advice, not to get smart arrogant remarks. So thank you for your help, I definately know which company for my friends and I to avoid in the future...

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

With this post you are telling us all about yourself and your personality.

SkidMan

My Feedback: (17)

I found this thread searching for some information about this very same problem, but with a DLE-20.

Obviously, the OPwas very frustrated, and by the time he got to this point in the thread evidently he was beyond frustrated. I think I would be too.

I've read through the sticky, Isearched for "DLEcarb problems" (with and without quotes) as was suggested, and in this thread the only thing I found helpful was some information that is pointing me in the need to wet the pump and/or inlet needle direction, without any specifics or links to other threads.

Unfortunately, what was a frustrated search for help became a critique of the OP (and other posters).

I'd like to suggest that not posting anything at all is a lot more helpful to this hobby than a lot of posts in this thread.

Yes, it is helpful to suggest that people use the search function, but it can be a nice gesture to post a link to a thread that might be helpful - especially if you've addressed this situation numerous times.

We've all been noobs at about everything at some point in time. I know that I've learned a lot, in a lot of different fields, from people that have been patient and helped me learn the very basics. After all, they didn't need to reinvent the wheel to learn it themselves. I remain thankful to them and I hope that I can pass that knowlege on to others. I guess that I also need to be thankful for the many people that ignored my stupid questions until I found someone who felt like answering me.

Jump on me if you want, I've seen plenty of character in this thread already.

When I find the details of getting the fuel to flow I'll post them here so that somebody who comes across this thread at a later date might find the answer.


Paul

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Pop off pressure has nothing to do with how a carb pulls fuel when choked.....The piston moving up creates a suction in the crankcase, which is what pulls the fuel through the fuel line...If the carb venturi is completely closed all that suction is acting on the fuel line...If there is a leak anywhere in the line or if the inlet needle is stuck closed there will be no fuel drawn....PERIOD....Take the cover off, the one with 4 screws....Gently push on the long end of the lever to un seat the needle...Put the gasket on the carb, then the diaphragm, then the cover...
Cover the venturi with your thumb, then rotate the crank.....If all is well you will see fuel move in the line...If it goes back toward the tank the inlet needle is leaking....
If there is a leak anywhere in the case, under the cylinder, under the carb, in the crankcase joint, at the front crank seal, there will be no suction...There are no other possibilities...

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

The details you refer to have been posted in this thread already, go back and read it from the beginning. Frustration works both ways, for those looking for answers to problems and for those that have answered the questions countless times. If one is a newbie to anything,questions should be posed with a bit of humility and respectwith the attitude left out.

I just typed, carb won't prime, into the gas engines forum search box and the entire page lit up with posts of others with the same issue, in every instance the answers for correcting the problem are less than 3 clicks away. The RCU search function is actually very good but you must be specific, it even has filters you can apply to filter out posts from other engine makes, or select from posts made by a specific person that one may trust.

summerwind

this was one of the most helpful posts from you yet Jody........thx

SkidMan

My Feedback: (17)

Here is a link to some information (with pictures!) about this type of carb. Between Antique's post and the following link we ought be be able to get somewhere:
http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm

Paul

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The answer to the problem in the original post was given in Jedijody's first post in this thread.

"The needle is stuck in the seat"

"Send it back"

This answer was given because from the first post it was evident that the original poster did not have the skill set to unstick the carburetor.

The procedure could go like this . . . remove the cover from the regulator side of the carb, unstick the needle, put a little fuel below the diaphragm and replace cover. (Take note that there are several approaches to repairing this very simple problem.)

Then to pressurize the tank to force fuel through the pump and up to the needle and seat in order to wet the pump diaphragm and check valve flaps on the diaphragm.

If the needle was unstuck from the seat, you could put your finger over the venturi of the carb and turning the engine over would suck fuel all the way through the carburetor and into the engine.

The carburetor is made little different from those on typical cheap weed whackers and most chain saws.


In The original poster's case, it was best for him to send the engine back to where he bought it and let them unstick the carburetor.

The original poster's frustration likely is because he bought the engine from some source where it is not economically feasible nor possible to send it back where he bought it?

Therefore he needs to seek help from someone at the flying field or a chain saw shop to fix this simple problem for him.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Or swallow the tude, politely ask for assistance, and be amazed at all the cordial help pouring out, again, to help him solve his problem. Jim hit the nail on the head big time.

summerwind

now what's that old saying about catchin Bees?

you guys really are great at times..............just gotta be careful what topics us newbies pick to post about though

SkidMan

My Feedback: (17)

w8ye - thank you for the additional details.

I do have transferable skills (rebuilding motorcycle and auto carbs - when they had them) but I did not have any information on the Walbro, and before I started pulling apart an in warranty, new carb, I wanted to do a little homework first. Between the link I posted and both your and Antique's details, it will be a piece of cake.

Paul

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Please understand, it's not the topic or because it's the 100th time it's been asked, it's the way it was done.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Nothing to it.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Correct.

summerwind

yeah i'm startin to really understand you guys..................easy to get along with once one understands where you are coming from.

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Neb,

Read through this thread (and past the smug comments) and you will find that this is a relatively common problem with new gassers.
Whilst the Walbro carburettor is an extremely efficient fuel pump, the membranes need to be wet for it to start pumping and the metering needle needs to be free.

First, you can try standing the plane up on the nose and drip a bit of fuel into the carburettor throat. This will sometimes allow the pump to start drawing fuel from your tank.
Pull off the cover with the single big screw in the middle - pay careful attention to how the membrane sits so that you can be sure it goes bacjk down the same way - and squirt a bit of fuel into the carburettor. Put the cover back on. Make sure the membrane sits correctly and that you don't disconnect the pulse line.
This does not address a the problem if the metering needle is stuck but 90% of the time, this will get you going.

Now, put a finger over the carburettor throat (if you can get to it - at least close the choke) and briskly flip the prop a few times.
Even flick the prop back and forth from compression to compression. You should see the fuel start moving up the line from the tank.

If this doesn't work - I would probably suggest you contact your supplier for advice - if they want you to free up the metering needle or if they want you to return the engine for service.

These are good engines but all gas engines can be frustrating at the first start if you're not used to them. Once you have it running the first time, odds are you will have an easy starting engine and the DLE is a good little engine.

Also - look at Ralph's (Antique) comments regarding how the engine draws fuel. They explain well how it works

Best of luck with it

(see Jody, this wasn't so hard )

captinjohn

Actually most all questions like theses could be answered in one or two clicks. The person who has a known good answer could just cut & pase it from his already to go data...stored on his computer. Hey what colud be more easy easy easy easy?
Capt,n

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

In Jodys defense, he has answered 100's of questions on RCU concerning DLE engines. He has even taken the time to shoot me an email to give me some thrust reading on the DLE 20. Though I found his email a little on the short/rude side, I respect his knowledge. His postings here on RCU do seem a little inconstant at times as far as his politeness goes. Some post are pleasant and polite, others are not. I feel the less pleasant ones are explanations on subjects that he has answered dozens of times, and his shortness is an expression of his frustration.

With that said, He and Valley View RC are one of the better shops to deal with. Did someone from Tower Hobbies chime in with help for you? Scoot

My best guess would be sightly (<100 mPa). Thats Vacuum by the way, not pressure.

SOLO_48

My Feedback: (8)

All i can see in all of this,is the loyalty of the chinesse,any one can sell they product,instead of having one central dist.

kmeyers

Neb_16
A simple read of your earlier posts reviel that this is not your first gasser or your first gasser problem (3-22-10 Ryobi 28cc).

Lets quit throwing stones and just try to take advice from those that offer while keeping comments to ourselves.

#1 before touching H & L needles you should carefully turn them in to closed while counting the amount they are open ie 1 1/2 turns ect and writing this down for refference. Now that you have scewed them up, Ask Jedi Jody nicely to give you good starting stettings (he is the Guru on these engines).

#2 try priming the engine several more times and with larger amounts of fuel to get several minutes of running time to see if it doesn't fix it's self and pump on it's own. Easiest of all.

This would be my starting point.

Also let the rest of the community know how things work out.

Peace

Turk1

Hi Capt'n, its mildly cold here a little over zero ° C ,no snow yet.We fly without problem frequently,yet.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Depends on which end of the hose she was on.[]

FentonFlyer

My Feedback: (11)

Hey SilverSurfer,
Your nasty replies are getting just about as old as the continuous stream of noobie questions. If it bothers you so much that people ask the same questions over and over again why do you even reply? IMO, you're just as bad. Sit back, take a couple deep breaths and relax. If that doesn't work, try an Ambien or three...

RCER88

My Feedback: (25)

Walbro carbs are a very simple item. To the OP

Please check you have your fuel lines correct. IE line with clunk to the carb. DO NOT plug off the vent line.

In many cases 1 1/2 turns out is not enough on the high and low speed jets on a brand new engine. close them off until the stop. DO NOT Overtorque. Open two full turns.

Prime carb with fuel and start engine at idle. Let it run until it quits. or it may then stay running.

Repeat. After three or four attempts it should keep running.

slowly adjust to smooth out on idle and then the high speed until it runs just a touch rich.

Enjoy.

That procedure will work for EVERY Engine with a walbro carb. if not there may be a problem with the carb internally. On new engines I have found loose screws on the pump side. Needle and seat stuck. though very rare.

I run my engine at idle until the tank is empty at the field because it has been my experience if they are not run within a week or so the fuel evaporates thus leaving oil and gunk inside the carb. Then it has to be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned. Each spring it is easier to restart after setting all winter or even setting a couple of weeks. I know others will disagree with me and that is ok with me. I have worked on engines for thirty plus years. I do have some experience. I do the same with my chainsaws and weedwhackers, even my lawnmowers. After they are run the first time oil coats the pump and then it takes a year or so without running to cause problems if not run it had been run dry.

GarZob

My Feedback: (18)

I have been wrenching on engines fo 40 years now.. OMG did Isay 40. Oh well it is what it is. A member in our club asked me to help him start and tune his very 1st gasser. Went over and did a quick once over as I trusted his building and flying of 30 plus years. The very same thing was going on with his motor as you descrbed at the start of this post. After a few deep breathes i decided I would check the complete fuel system as we had 2 of the three elements of combustion. You know the old "fire triangle" Fuel, oxygen and spark. Much to my surprise and embarresment the fuel supply line was attached to the vent tube not the supply tube. Problem solved.. Just a thought to ponder.