wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

Been on vacation, but I got the engine out on the stand and fired up today.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7EnE5-vzN8s[/youtube]

The video is longish and boring unless you really like to watch engines run. Some key points. The engine idles at 1350-1400rpm. I need to adjust the servo linkage a bit to get some more travel as one click of trim takes in from around 1400 to 1700rpm. In the video, the low end is just a hair lean in my estimation. There is a slight stumble when the throttle in advanced quickly from idle. I opened up the low needle about 1/16th of a turn after that video and it seems to have taken care of it. Full throttle is currently about 6000rpm on a Xoar 27x10 beachwood prop. I haven't adjusted the top end needle yet so a bit more tuning is needed. The cylinder heads were in the 270-280deg F range when running and about 265 at when I checked them at the end of the video. Yes, its a not-contact IR thermometer and yes, they can be inaccurate, but it's what I had ready access to right now.

At full throttle the thing pulls like a horse. If you watch the video, you can see the stand flex when I let off the throttle. The prop wash is strong enough to make me really have to focus when taking RPM readings. No lack of power.

Now for the annoying part. The stupid thing bit me again today. I doesn't seem to like being started after running, then sitting for a while. Perhaps and hour or so. It has fuel in the line. Just flipping it doesn't seem to get anywhere, but it I choke it, it will be dripping gas after two or three flips and either will not pop, or backfires. If I let is sit a bit to dry out, it is highly likely to backfire when it catches. I'm pretty sure I'm doing something not quite right but I haven't divined what it is yet.

-wpm

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds more like the timing isn't quite right. The 111 likes to be a little "wet" but definately not dripping. That would make for a very long day of flipping props. Once the plugs get that wet it's better to remove them and clean them out and spin the excess fuel out of the cylinders.

You're definately not doing yourself any favors by not tuning the top end yet. You must be into self flagellation or something. Your peak numbers are pretty low. Better to peak up that high and get right after the low. BTW, you are using a temp gun in about the only useful manner they have fo engines. In a static environment where heat readings can be taken throughout the functional range.

For the earlier question about the DLE 170. Quite a few people have rated it as stronger than the DA version.

For the DA junkie. If you haven't yet broke a DA you haven't had very many of them. Same holds true for a 3w or any other brand. They ALL break. What really kills most of them is the owner and their failure to set them up right.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

My intent was do exactly that, peak the top end. I know that after doing so, the low end will likely need to be adjusted again. Unfortunately, real life interceded and I had to stop after that video. When I got back to it this afternoon, we weren't getting along so I parked it for the day. I had thought about the timing thing too. I came across Jodi's post regarding a few "mis-timed" ignition units and it started me thinking about timing. Not saying I have a bad unit, that just happened to be the thread that started me thinking. I will of course check my ignition unit just to be sure, but I'll also check the pickup settings and make sure everything is correct.

I do have a question regarding starting technique though. According to the more useful manual Tower Hobbies has online, as well as reading threads here and there, the prop should be around 2 o'clock with the pistons at the beginning of the compression stroke when you flip. The manual shows the sensor magnet at about the 3 o'clock position. However, with this setup, I can't flip the prop hard enough to get it over TDC, it just bounces back off the compression. However, if I reset the prop so it is at 2 o'clock and the magnet is a 12 o'clock, the pistons are at the point where you can actually begin to feel the compressions. From this point I can actually flip the prop and have it continue through TDC. However since the ignition fires well before TDC, as the magnet passes under the sensor, my hand is still on or near the prop at that point (should it decide to backfire). Trying to make sure my technique isn't too terribly pathetic before I start blaming the engine too much.

-wpm

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

For prop positioning purposes, the sensor location is irrelevant on a CDI equipped engine. Bring the engine up to the start of compression pressure, not TDC by any means, before establishing prop positioning. The 2/8 or 1/7 blade positions are about the best for moving the hand through and out of a prop arc for the starting process. You just can't be slow and weak with the motion. Get to it and get 'er done rapidly in one smooth and fast motion. There's no reason to walk a prop through the start.

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

Ok, thanks TOM. Sounds like I'm not terribly off in technique then. As far as being authoritative in flipping the prop, that I definitely understand.

-wpm

wpmcnamara

My Feedback: (9)

Alright. Time to post a semi-final update. The ridiculous temperatures in Texas combined with my personal schedule have conspired to keep me away from tuning the DLE-111 until this morning.

The very short summary is that this morning was 100% positive. Engine fired right up and ran well. It didn't backfire in any of the four times I stopped and started it. It took a few extra flips when I let it sit 15-20 minutes between runs, but not enough to make me break a sweat. I think some of my prior starting problems may have been related to me being afraid of the big 'ole prop. I used a paint roller as a chicken stick for starting and it worked very well, even with a wooden prop.

Tweaking the needles a bit yielded a high of ~6270 and idle around 1350-1400 with a Xoar 27x10 beachwood prop. Peak is still a bit lower than I would expect (around 6.5k) but I want to put new plugs in before I tinker any more. No bogging or stumbling, even when slamming the throttle full from idle and no apparent burble coming back down. I ran over 32oz through it today while tuning and it just purrs.

One other thing I'd like to do is to publicly thank Robert for his support. He stood behind his product and has gone out of his way to make sure everything is ok. He called me to check in after my last set of posts when I was having starting troubles. We will all be very quick to note when a vendor provides crummy service so I thought it only fair to point out one that has provide, me at least, very good service.

I'd also like to thank TOM and Jody for their help and support.

-wpm

planenutzz

Gents,
I know this is an old thread but wating to confim a few things. My DLE-111 is a Version 2 engine. The book states timing is 44 degrees BTDC which is along way from the 26 - 32 degrees stated here.

Keen to know correct setting in case I need to check it.

also what torque for the 6 x prop bolts. 40 Ft lbs I had heard on other threads.
torque for the 13mm hub nut?

cheers

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

planenutzz

thanks for reply mate, I have asked the Australian DLE distrubutor for advice on torque and timing settings. They have been helpful to date.

cheers
P