gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Hey all

I have a giant big stik, awesome plane. It has mounted on it a CCRC Pro 40cc engine on it.

Ok here is the whole story....been flying great, had a little mid burble, so we attemped to tune it out, we did was singing like a champ, running great. Then all of a sudden it backfired and would not run right, and the idle would not go down etc... well looked it over, I rebuilt the carb new gaskets, I also added a new plug. Come to find out the screw in the butterfly valve loosened up, causeing high idle, because it would not close up. So rebuilt carb, fixed carb, plug, checked all linkages etc..

Good to go???

Started it up, and it will work good for a minute, then it starts making this sound .. ta ta ta ta ta ta ta ta .. etc... RPMs won't go up/REV, it idles fine though.
Some one said ig is my ignition breaking down, and my ignition module is junk.
Some one else said the piston ring is sticking.


Can not fly the plane at all, this is all that is does....

HELP!!!!!!!!!

Thanks
George

earlwb

Try another ignition module. It is quite possible it is failing. The ignition coil can break down inside easily as they run a higher voltage through it to develop the spark and if the spark gap gets too large the voltage level spikes really high causing the windings inside the coil to short out. A common symptom is you can't rev up, but it may idle though, and it just gets worse and worse as the coil keeps getting worse until it fails completely.

of course one other thought is that the timing sensor on the front of the engine is starting to fail. If that is true then it is much cheaper to get, as they sell them separate on some engine brands and ignition modules.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Thanks alot

What should the gap be on the sensor/pickup be?

What should the compression on an engine like this be? The compression seems low.

Big question, what is a good, reliable ignition coil to get?

This is my engine and ignition.
http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/v...p?productid=98

Thanks
George

AA5BY

My vote is broken ring.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

George, that's one of the most popular and unreliable ignitions around. Borrow one from one of the guys that you know is working. Dan.

earlwb

Sorry George, the ignition coil is inside of the ignition unit and they pot the thing with epoxy (fill it up with epoxy resin). So it would be almost impossible to take it apart, dremel out the epoxy and replace the small ignition coil. You will need a new ignition module.
The sensor gap is anywhere from 1/64th of a inch to 1/32nd of a inch, sometimes a little more.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

If my ignition module is a popular, but crappy one, and I need to replace it, what is a good one to replace it with?

Thanks
George

FullSpool

My Feedback: (12)

http://www.rcextremepower.net/ignitions.html

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

I have a RCexl ignition on the plane now. The link you sent was to these ignitions, I thought they were cheap junk?

Anyone use them? Thoughts?

Thanks
George

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

RCEXL s about the best option you have

gagallagher04401

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.....alright I guess

coralcape

My Feedback: (4)

Also, check and make sure your exhaust system is not plugged up. red

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Nope it is not.

SO a break down

bad ignition?
broke/stuck/sticking ring?
Bad ignition batteries? (I use twin 2000mah 4.8v packs with a 6V regulator) Should I go to 1 new 4.8v battery and eliminate the regulator?

captinjohn

Super easy to check that piston ring...about 4 bolts and pull jug. You should do this anyway to check for carbon or stuck ring. Also look at wear patterns on cyl wall & piston. If the ring is sticking...remove it with care...clean out ring grove and re-install. Lube it up good and it sould have enough compressin to start. Who knows...it may run good again if compression comes back good. Or just try another ignition. Hey these engines are simple...no need to be a rocket scientist ! Capt,n

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

When I remove those 4 bolts though on the bottom of the engine, won't I need to replace the gasket? Any seals? etc...

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

2 4.8 volt batteries and running a 6v regulator? Why?

Whatever you're running for power, confirm what voltage the ignition module is actually getting with everything turned on. If it will idle and go no higher I think there's a very good chance there's nothing wrong with the ignition. It's more likely the power getting to the module is too low. Figure out why that's happening and go flying again....

azalner

My Feedback: (8)

If you are using a regulator with 4.8 volt batteries, there is a good chance that the regulator is cutting in and out. Lose the regulator!

azalner

My Feedback: (8)

See the following link for assembly instructions:

[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=1074[/link]

pkoury

My Feedback: (7)

Are the two 4.8 volt batteries in parallel or series? What regulator are you using? I would try running the ignition on one of the fully charged 4.8 packs without the regulator.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

well two 4.8v batteries = 9.6 v total right?

My ignition is only good for 4.8v -6V. the regulator is not allowing the voltage to go above the 6V the max that the module can handle.
Am I missing somehing? I have been running this setup for quite a long time with no problems.

ggraham500

My Feedback: (4)

Why bother to run the 4.8v batteries in series like you apparently are and have to use a regulator to choke them back down to a max of 6.0 volts? Either use two 4.8v batteries in parallel and use a SmartFly BatShare or just use a single 4.8v battery..

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

It was setup this way when I bought the plane, being used this way with no problems.

I will go to one 4.8v battery and see if that solves my problem. Doubt it...

earlwb

The RCexl ignition module only needs power from a 4.8v battery pack. The current RCexl modules do now draw all that much power (or current) so a 2000 to 2500 mah 4.8v battery pack is perfect for them. RCexl even states in their instructions that a 4.8 pack is optimum for them.  The 6.0v maximum is really that a maximum voltage. RCexl sort of discourages running the ignition module off of 6v too. I suspect they have some voltage sensitive parts that may fail if supplied with the 6.0v maximum voltage level. The ignition module is pretty much guaranteed to fail if the voltage goes over that.

The voltage regulators, on power up, tend to go over the set max voltage for a moment, then settle back down at the set voltage. So if you use a voltahe regulator you want to set it for 5.0v and leave it there.  A 5v or 6v regulator cannot regulate a 4.8v battery pack, it usually just turns itself off and stops.

So you only need one 4.8v battery pack and you can fly all day and maybe the whole weekend depending on how much you run the engine.
I know some guys come out and fly once or twice during the day others make 5 or 6 flights and a few do more.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Ok well first thing I will do then is swap to one pack, no regulator. See if that helps. Fingers crossed!
I have a spektrum 4.8V Rx pack, would that be alright I would think. 2000mah I believe.

earlwb

That is what I am using on my gas engines a 4.8v battery pack, 2000 mah.
I have run engines before for over a hour using just a 2000 mah pack too.

Now I do have some older ignition modules that draw more power though, so a larger capacity battery pack may be more useful for them.

What I doi is use a expanded scale voltmeter to check the battery pack after every flight at first. Then after I have determined it is holding up well and how long it is working for, I stop doing the battery checks so often.