Firepower R/C

My Feedback: (10)

New and improved "Lighning Bolt" battery dip! Now you only have to charge your batteries once a year.

Gixxy

My Feedback: (18)

IllL TAKE TOO OF THOSE PLEEZE !!!!

Ok, I'm officially bored ;P Time to go fly !

K-Bob

My Feedback: (1)

I think the AMSOILMAN is in training for Amway. He would excel.

joncammarata

I have a CRRC gf50i on the way from china. I will buy and run amzoil exclusively for the life of the engine. I will do a thorough and unbiased review of the oil along with the review that i am going to do on the engine. I want to pay for the oil to maintain my integrity during the review but you you really believe in this oil Mr. Loftin then please extend me a 2 year warranty for the 217 dollars that I spent on this CRRC 50cc engine so i can test your oil with out losing my money for this engine.

earlwb

Well, I was using Amsoil Saber Pro 100:1 oil in my little NGH 9cc engines as well as in my other gas engines too. But I followed the engine manufacturer's oil ratio recommendations. I just simply do not believe the hype about 100:1 ratio being OK. More power to those who do believe in that 100:1 use ratio too. The NGH 9cc and NGH 17cc engines use a bushed rod, no needle bearings, so there is no way a low oil ratio will work in the engines and keep the rod from failing.
 
These pics are after running more than two gallons of gasoline with Amsoil Saber Pro oil mixed at a 20:1 to 25:1 ratio. The engine is one of my NGH 9cc engines. It does some some carbon buildup on the top of the piston near the exhaust port. The head is amazingly clean, it sort of makes one wonder if they teflon coated the combustion chamber or not. The little 1/4x32 spark plug shows carbon build up too, but the center electrode is quite clean albeit a little darker brown than would be perfect. The engine is about 1/2 way through a third gallon of fuel too. Using up that much gasoline in a little 9cc engine is a lot of flying and hours on the engines too.

Now I am concerned as to why some engine manufacturers state in their engine instructions; "Do not use AMSOIL  oil products in any form in this engine."  Why is that? The other concern is why AMSOIL seems to be sold only by individuals in a manner similar to AVON products too. I don't see AMSOIL products in stores or even lawn equipment supply stores either.  It seems all the testimonials are from AMSOIL dealers not just users.  Of course I am just a user and I am not a dealer, nor do I sell the stuff, and no one gave me any bottles of the stuff to use either.

Anyway, the stuff isn't burning as clean as some others claim it does. But it is much cleaner burning than using mineral oils though. With the little 9cc gas engines, they would carbon up fast using mineral oils.  I could probably run the engines a little more lean too. But I haven't though. But the engines seem to be holding up OK using the oil. Although I won't say the AMSOIL oil is the best or greatest stuff to use, it seems to be working out just fine by following the manufacturer's oil ratio recommendations.

I plan on trying out some Stihl Ultra 2 stroke oil too. I was able to visit a local lawn equipment supply dealer and pick up some.

One problem I see is that most RC flyers run the engines at full throttle for the entire flight, time after time. They do not throttle back much if any. Albeit some 3D flyers use the throttle a lot though. But they like hovering a lot too and that puts a stationary position stress on the engine. The weed trimmer engine people only use the engines intermittently and never at full throttle much if any. A Ultra Light plane flyer doesn't fly around full throttle either. So I would be concerned with using the stuff at 50:1 or 100:1 in RC model plane engines, where the engines are stressed a lot more than in other applications.

rexbirk

I have been using Amsoil Sabre and the older Amsoil 100:1 oil that became Sabre for many years. All my engines including my lawn equipment and airplane motors have needle bearings. I run it at 75 or 80 to one. One of my weed wackers from 84 and still runs fine. I wonder if running Saber atbsuch a rich oil mixture contributes to more deposits?

Ed

I have been told by a DA employee that running Amsoil at a greater then the recommended 100:1 ratio, leads to very hard carbon deposits, and that too many people were doing exactly that, and that is why they stopped recommending it. Amsoil Sabre should ony be used at 100:1 ! They now advise using Red Line or Stihl at higher ratios.

DougB1

My Feedback: (11)

Do mean higher by going from 40:1 to say 60:1 ?

Ed

No ......... If you want to look at it that way, it would be going from 100:1 to 50:1. So I guess you would call that lower ?

earlwb

That is certainly a interesting thing. I cannot confirm it on my little 9cc gas engine yet. The carbon came right off the top of the piston without much difficulty. I only spent a few minutes doing it. Same for the spark plug and the little spots on the combusion chamber too. It might be something happening more on the bigger engines as the combustion gasses would likely be more hot with the bigger engines.

Ernie Misner

I guess you just ran Amsoil at a fatter ratio than 100:1 as a test? With a good synthetic even at 32:1 there should not be hardly any carbon at all.

earlwb

On my NGH 9cc gas engines they suggest using 20:1 to 25:1 oil to fuel content. The 9cc engines use a bushed connecting rod, so you cannot really reduce the oil content by much without obvious consequences. The NGh 17cc engine also uses a bushed connecting rod too, so you have to use the same 20:1 to 25:1 oil ratio as well. 20:1 is for break in, and later if you dare you can go to 25:1.

Ed

I understand about you needing more oil to lube the bushed bearing, not much room in that little 9cc for a ball bearing, but just try to find a good synthetic oil that you can run at that 25:1 ratio, and it will not result in any carbon at all. Amsoil Sabre isn't the right stuff, and that's why your carbon problem developed.

earlwb

Yeah I plan on switching to Stihl Ultra pretty soon.  But the carbon deposits were not a problem for me in the first place. I was really expecting a lot worse when I took the head off of the engine.  It used to be something of a regular maintenance procedure to have to decarbon my old two stroke motorcycle engines back in the 1960's, 1970's and 1980's.

I am concerned that the Amsoil 100:1 oil is more "snake oil" than real synthetic oil. If you have to use it at a 100:1 ratio, there may be something wrong with it. If you used it in a lightly loaded utility engine like a trimmer, blower et cetera, where the engine seldom if ever, goes to full throttle for extended periods of time, then the 100:1 would likely work fine. But not in a model RC engine intended to run full throttle under a full load for extended periods of time.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

We were on a race team running 340cc snowmobile engines putting out like 125+ horsepower when they first introduced the 100:1. We were actually partially sponsored by Amsoil. Sprint type racing - 3 laps to qualify, many more for the feature races. I'm here to tell anyone willing to listen we never had a lube related failure, and rest assured that sled was wide open most of the time it was on the track! 100:1 is a long way from snake oil. When our engines were pulled down (often between heat races) they were wet where it counted.

That said, when it comes to to my flying MANY years after that experience, I'm not partial to what brand oil I run! I'm good to go if the oil is approved for running in air cooled 2 stroke engines.... -Al

earlwb

Thanks for the information. I appreciate it.  None of the engines I am running the AMSOIL Saber oil in it have exhibited any problems or wear related issues yet. So the oil does seem to work OK. Even if there is some carbon buildup on it, the carbon deposits seem to be soft and not difficult to remove.  I'll mix up a gallon or two of fuel  using Stilh Ultra and run the engine using it for a while and then check how it compares.

Ernie Misner

>>> I'll mix up a gallon or two of fuel using Stilh Ultra and run the engine using it for a while and then check how it compares. >>>

+1 Earl. Please do that for us when you get a chance. We'd love the report. When I was racing go karts way back when we were used to some carbon build up before synthetics were popular. When when the first synthetics became available (Steen-C) we ran a Homelite kart engine a whole season on that then pulled the head off. We were amazed at how shiney clean the top end was. I was just a teenager but my boss at the shop said the inside of the head was so clean he wouldn't hesitate to eat his lunch off of it!