SV 50cc
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SV 50cc
i have a sv 50cc. it has a walbro wt-429A carb on it. and i think its FUBAR. i look to see if i could get a new one. no luck. what it is the enigine is running hot. like 400. the high end jet really don't do nothing. ( you cant make it run Rich. i did open the carb up. everything looks good. i would like one like it or something that will work
Thanks
Thanks
#4
RE: SV 50cc
Yes I would agree that the carb may need a rebuild as the rubber parts may have become stiff and it isn't pumping well now and isn't regulating the fuel flow like it should. Also you could have a air leak there under the carb too. The general rule is to always replace the base mounting gasket if you take the carb off, as it is a common source of air leaks in the engines.
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RE: SV 50cc
I did some work on the SV50's, the way they came through they where mis-timed, the timing was way advanced and made it run very hot. Check the timing first, you may have to elongate the slots in the black sensor to get it to time properly. Someone was selling special black housing that had long slots in them already. There are a few other things you can do too to make them better.
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RE: SV 50cc
ORIGINAL: soarrich
I did some work on the SV50's, the way they came through they where mis-timed, the timing was way advanced and made it run very hot. Check the timing first, you may have to elongate the slots in the black sensor to get it to time properly. Someone was selling special black housing that had long slots in them already. There are a few other things you can do too to make them better.
I did some work on the SV50's, the way they came through they where mis-timed, the timing was way advanced and made it run very hot. Check the timing first, you may have to elongate the slots in the black sensor to get it to time properly. Someone was selling special black housing that had long slots in them already. There are a few other things you can do too to make them better.
how do you set/check the timing ??
Thanks
Allen
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RE: SV 50cc
This should help you set-up your engine:
The easy no math timing.
Cut a strip of paper 1/4" x 5".
Rap the paper around the prop drive, back by the crankcase where the magnet is. Overlap the paper then cut with a #11 blade cut though both layers of the paper.
Now you have a piece of paper the exact circumference of the prop drive.
Cut it in half, take one of the halves and cut that in half again, take that and cut it in half also. Now cut it so it's in 1/3 and 2/3 pieces.
The 2/3 piece is how much before TDC the engine should fire, (30*).
Now find TDC by removing the spark plug, then sticking something in the hole, a pencil works fine. Move the crankshaft until the piston. is at the top of the cylinder, you'll find that about 5* either side of the TDC it doesn't feel like the piston is moving. Wiggle the crank back and forth until you can find the center of this piston not moving zone, that's TDC.
Now with a marker make a line across the edge of the prop drive onto the crankcase, it doesn't matter where, just that it's easy to see.
Now turn the prop drive clockwise a distance equal to the 2/3 piece of paper.
Plug the ignition into a 4.8v battery, and turn it on.
Now with the two screws loosened move the sensor off the magnet until you hear the ignition pop.
Tighten the screws for the sensor down, then confirm that the timing is still set that 2/3 piece of paper before the TDC mark.
You may have to lengthen one of the grooves in the sensor mount to get the timing correct.
1.Start the engine, set the throttle so the engine is going 3500 rpm.
2.With the engine running I turn the "L" needle in, it is always the needle that is closest to the engine, when the engine speeds up to 4000 rpm I adjust the throttle to bring it back to 3500 rpm. You keep repeating this step until your engine doesn't speed up anymore when you turn the "L" needle in.
3.Turn the "L" needle out 3/16th of a turn.
4.Open the "H" needle 2 turns out, open the throttle all the way open. Now slowly turn the "H" needle in the engine will increase in rpms. Turn the needle about 1/16 at a time, when you get no more increase in rpm the "H" is set properly.
5.Set you idle speed with your throttle trims, it's best to take the idle stop screw completely out, you should have it so the idle is correct with the trim in the middle, and the low trim kills the engine.
6.With the engine running at the idle speed that you fly at you should now be able to snap the throttle open and the engine quickly speed up. If it just dies, turn the "L" needle out 1/16th of a turn, repeat this step until is quickly speeds up. If when you snap the throttle open it stumbles then speeds up turn the "L" needle in 1/16th of a turn until it cleanly and quickly speeds up.
7.Close the hole or notch up in the choke plate, I'll post a picture of what I mean, I do it with soldiering the hole close, some use glue or a bolt.
After you modify the choke plate the way to start the engine is:
a. Close choke completely.
b. Open throttle half way.
c. Flip engine with ignition on until the engine coughs.
d. Take choke fully off.
e. Set throttle just above idle, flip until it starts, usually 3 to 5 flips.
The above will work on all engines, but is this the engine you are talking about? It came in different colors. If so the quick mod of the carb mounting block is worth 3~400rpm. The the engines as they came turned a Xoar 22x8 6200 rpm, I was able to get them to turn 6800, but the engine mounting lugs blow off.[:@] Your better off using a 20x8 or a 18x10 and letting the engine spin-up more. It will never be a real strong engine, the ports are too small, but some can be good enough to use.
The easy no math timing.
Cut a strip of paper 1/4" x 5".
Rap the paper around the prop drive, back by the crankcase where the magnet is. Overlap the paper then cut with a #11 blade cut though both layers of the paper.
Now you have a piece of paper the exact circumference of the prop drive.
Cut it in half, take one of the halves and cut that in half again, take that and cut it in half also. Now cut it so it's in 1/3 and 2/3 pieces.
The 2/3 piece is how much before TDC the engine should fire, (30*).
Now find TDC by removing the spark plug, then sticking something in the hole, a pencil works fine. Move the crankshaft until the piston. is at the top of the cylinder, you'll find that about 5* either side of the TDC it doesn't feel like the piston is moving. Wiggle the crank back and forth until you can find the center of this piston not moving zone, that's TDC.
Now with a marker make a line across the edge of the prop drive onto the crankcase, it doesn't matter where, just that it's easy to see.
Now turn the prop drive clockwise a distance equal to the 2/3 piece of paper.
Plug the ignition into a 4.8v battery, and turn it on.
Now with the two screws loosened move the sensor off the magnet until you hear the ignition pop.
Tighten the screws for the sensor down, then confirm that the timing is still set that 2/3 piece of paper before the TDC mark.
You may have to lengthen one of the grooves in the sensor mount to get the timing correct.
1.Start the engine, set the throttle so the engine is going 3500 rpm.
2.With the engine running I turn the "L" needle in, it is always the needle that is closest to the engine, when the engine speeds up to 4000 rpm I adjust the throttle to bring it back to 3500 rpm. You keep repeating this step until your engine doesn't speed up anymore when you turn the "L" needle in.
3.Turn the "L" needle out 3/16th of a turn.
4.Open the "H" needle 2 turns out, open the throttle all the way open. Now slowly turn the "H" needle in the engine will increase in rpms. Turn the needle about 1/16 at a time, when you get no more increase in rpm the "H" is set properly.
5.Set you idle speed with your throttle trims, it's best to take the idle stop screw completely out, you should have it so the idle is correct with the trim in the middle, and the low trim kills the engine.
6.With the engine running at the idle speed that you fly at you should now be able to snap the throttle open and the engine quickly speed up. If it just dies, turn the "L" needle out 1/16th of a turn, repeat this step until is quickly speeds up. If when you snap the throttle open it stumbles then speeds up turn the "L" needle in 1/16th of a turn until it cleanly and quickly speeds up.
7.Close the hole or notch up in the choke plate, I'll post a picture of what I mean, I do it with soldiering the hole close, some use glue or a bolt.
After you modify the choke plate the way to start the engine is:
a. Close choke completely.
b. Open throttle half way.
c. Flip engine with ignition on until the engine coughs.
d. Take choke fully off.
e. Set throttle just above idle, flip until it starts, usually 3 to 5 flips.
The above will work on all engines, but is this the engine you are talking about? It came in different colors. If so the quick mod of the carb mounting block is worth 3~400rpm. The the engines as they came turned a Xoar 22x8 6200 rpm, I was able to get them to turn 6800, but the engine mounting lugs blow off.[:@] Your better off using a 20x8 or a 18x10 and letting the engine spin-up more. It will never be a real strong engine, the ports are too small, but some can be good enough to use.
#10
Senior Member
RE: SV 50cc
ORIGINAL: soarrich
This should help you set-up your engine:
The easy no math timing.
Cut a strip of paper 1/4'' x 5''.
Rap the paper around the prop drive, back by the crankcase where the magnet is. Overlap the paper then cut with a #11 blade cut though both layers of the paper.
Now you have a piece of paper the exact circumference of the prop drive.
Cut it in half, take one of the halves and cut that in half again, take that and cut it in half also. Now cut it so it's in 1/3 and 2/3 pieces.
The 2/3 piece is how much before TDC the engine should fire, (30*).
Now find TDC by removing the spark plug, then sticking something in the hole, a pencil works fine. Move the crankshaft until the piston. is at the top of the cylinder, you'll find that about 5* either side of the TDC it doesn't feel like the piston is moving. Wiggle the crank back and forth until you can find the center of this piston not moving zone, that's TDC.
Now with a marker make a line across the edge of the prop drive onto the crankcase, it doesn't matter where, just that it's easy to see.
Now turn the prop drive clockwise a distance equal to the 2/3 piece of paper.
Plug the ignition into a 4.8v battery, and turn it on.
Now with the two screws loosened move the sensor off the magnet until you hear the ignition pop.
Tighten the screws for the sensor down, then confirm that the timing is still set that 2/3 piece of paper before the TDC mark.
You may have to lengthen one of the grooves in the sensor mount to get the timing correct.
1.Start the engine, set the throttle so the engine is going 3500 rpm.
2.With the engine running I turn the ''L'' needle in, it is always the needle that is closest to the engine, when the engine speeds up to 4000 rpm I adjust the throttle to bring it back to 3500 rpm. You keep repeating this step until your engine doesn't speed up anymore when you turn the ''L'' needle in.
3.Turn the ''L'' needle out 3/16th of a turn.
4.Open the ''H'' needle 2 turns out, open the throttle all the way open. Now slowly turn the ''H'' needle in the engine will increase in rpms. Turn the needle about 1/16 at a time, when you get no more increase in rpm the ''H'' is set properly.
5.Set you idle speed with your throttle trims, it's best to take the idle stop screw completely out, you should have it so the idle is correct with the trim in the middle, and the low trim kills the engine.
6.With the engine running at the idle speed that you fly at you should now be able to snap the throttle open and the engine quickly speed up. If it just dies, turn the ''L'' needle out 1/16th of a turn, repeat this step until is quickly speeds up. If when you snap the throttle open it stumbles then speeds up turn the ''L'' needle in 1/16th of a turn until it cleanly and quickly speeds up.
7.Close the hole or notch up in the choke plate, I'll post a picture of what I mean, I do it with soldiering the hole close, some use glue or a bolt.
After you modify the choke plate the way to start the engine is:
a. Close choke completely.
b. Open throttle half way.
c. Flip engine with ignition on until the engine coughs.
d. Take choke fully off.
e. Set throttle just above idle, flip until it starts, usually 3 to 5 flips.
The above will work on all engines, but is this the engine you are talking about? It came in different colors. If so the quick mod of the carb mounting block is worth 3~400rpm. The the engines as they came turned a Xoar 22x8 6200 rpm, I was able to get them to turn 6800, but the engine mounting lugs blow off.[:@] Your better off using a 20x8 or a 18x10 and letting the engine spin-up more. It will never be a real strong engine, the ports are too small, but some can be good enough to use.
This should help you set-up your engine:
The easy no math timing.
Cut a strip of paper 1/4'' x 5''.
Rap the paper around the prop drive, back by the crankcase where the magnet is. Overlap the paper then cut with a #11 blade cut though both layers of the paper.
Now you have a piece of paper the exact circumference of the prop drive.
Cut it in half, take one of the halves and cut that in half again, take that and cut it in half also. Now cut it so it's in 1/3 and 2/3 pieces.
The 2/3 piece is how much before TDC the engine should fire, (30*).
Now find TDC by removing the spark plug, then sticking something in the hole, a pencil works fine. Move the crankshaft until the piston. is at the top of the cylinder, you'll find that about 5* either side of the TDC it doesn't feel like the piston is moving. Wiggle the crank back and forth until you can find the center of this piston not moving zone, that's TDC.
Now with a marker make a line across the edge of the prop drive onto the crankcase, it doesn't matter where, just that it's easy to see.
Now turn the prop drive clockwise a distance equal to the 2/3 piece of paper.
Plug the ignition into a 4.8v battery, and turn it on.
Now with the two screws loosened move the sensor off the magnet until you hear the ignition pop.
Tighten the screws for the sensor down, then confirm that the timing is still set that 2/3 piece of paper before the TDC mark.
You may have to lengthen one of the grooves in the sensor mount to get the timing correct.
1.Start the engine, set the throttle so the engine is going 3500 rpm.
2.With the engine running I turn the ''L'' needle in, it is always the needle that is closest to the engine, when the engine speeds up to 4000 rpm I adjust the throttle to bring it back to 3500 rpm. You keep repeating this step until your engine doesn't speed up anymore when you turn the ''L'' needle in.
3.Turn the ''L'' needle out 3/16th of a turn.
4.Open the ''H'' needle 2 turns out, open the throttle all the way open. Now slowly turn the ''H'' needle in the engine will increase in rpms. Turn the needle about 1/16 at a time, when you get no more increase in rpm the ''H'' is set properly.
5.Set you idle speed with your throttle trims, it's best to take the idle stop screw completely out, you should have it so the idle is correct with the trim in the middle, and the low trim kills the engine.
6.With the engine running at the idle speed that you fly at you should now be able to snap the throttle open and the engine quickly speed up. If it just dies, turn the ''L'' needle out 1/16th of a turn, repeat this step until is quickly speeds up. If when you snap the throttle open it stumbles then speeds up turn the ''L'' needle in 1/16th of a turn until it cleanly and quickly speeds up.
7.Close the hole or notch up in the choke plate, I'll post a picture of what I mean, I do it with soldiering the hole close, some use glue or a bolt.
After you modify the choke plate the way to start the engine is:
a. Close choke completely.
b. Open throttle half way.
c. Flip engine with ignition on until the engine coughs.
d. Take choke fully off.
e. Set throttle just above idle, flip until it starts, usually 3 to 5 flips.
The above will work on all engines, but is this the engine you are talking about? It came in different colors. If so the quick mod of the carb mounting block is worth 3~400rpm. The the engines as they came turned a Xoar 22x8 6200 rpm, I was able to get them to turn 6800, but the engine mounting lugs blow off.[:@] Your better off using a 20x8 or a 18x10 and letting the engine spin-up more. It will never be a real strong engine, the ports are too small, but some can be good enough to use.
BCCHI
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RE: SV 50cc
Yea, this was written for someone who has no timing wheel or experience timing these engines.
I can find TDC in about 3 seconds and set the timing by eye in another 10 seconds. Most the engines can be timed pretty close by just having the sensor and the magnet 3/8" apart at TDC.
I can find TDC in about 3 seconds and set the timing by eye in another 10 seconds. Most the engines can be timed pretty close by just having the sensor and the magnet 3/8" apart at TDC.
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RE: SV 50cc
To time it?
Remove the spark-plug.
Stick a pencil in the hole touching the piston, when the piston stops moving the pencil up, the black sensor housing should be about 3/8" away from the edge of the magnet.
Remove the spark-plug.
Stick a pencil in the hole touching the piston, when the piston stops moving the pencil up, the black sensor housing should be about 3/8" away from the edge of the magnet.
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RE: SV 50cc
is the 3/8 after or before ?? i turn it to TDC the way it will turn when its running. before the pickup or after. ?? and were the mag starts or the center of it ??
Thanks
Allen
Thanks
Allen
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RE: SV 50cc
ORIGINAL: VampeD4
is the 3/8 after or before ??
is the 3/8 after or before ??
i turn it to TDC the way it will turn when its running.
before the pickup or after. ??
and were the mag starts or the center of it ??
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RE: SV 50cc
ok. i have it set a TDC and this is what i got. now the way im thinking and what i was told in this thred. is that the mag should be 3/8 Before the pickup. ?? but its AFTER. ??
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RE: SV 50cc
Yea, that's about 60° before TDC, it will make it run really hot. with poor power, and it will kick-back.
Loosen the black sensor, then move it to the right in the picture until it's about 3/8" away from the magnet. You may have to either elongate one of the slots, grind some of the built in washer off the screw, or both. You will find the engine will run much better after the timing is corrected.
Have you looked to see if there is a steel button pressed into the crank to keep the con rod on?
Loosen the black sensor, then move it to the right in the picture until it's about 3/8" away from the magnet. You may have to either elongate one of the slots, grind some of the built in washer off the screw, or both. You will find the engine will run much better after the timing is corrected.
Have you looked to see if there is a steel button pressed into the crank to keep the con rod on?