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NGH 38CC 4 stroke

Old 07-21-2013, 10:38 AM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

Inflight pics...
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:40 AM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

Last pics from today.
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:07 PM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

What does your CAP 232 weigh ?
My AT-6 that i am puting the engine in "should" end up weighing @ 16 - 18 lbs (say 8 - 9 kg)
Old 07-21-2013, 02:11 PM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

6,9kg or 15.2 lbs

I bet putting a 18x8 prop instead of the 18/10 would give it better vertical.......just did not want to bother reseting the needles today...just wanted to fly

It is very economical, it sips fuel
Old 07-21-2013, 09:40 PM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

Great report.Why dont you prefer tarmac for take off instead of grass?Im not sure prop changes will need carb. readjustment.I also agree with you 18-8
may give better performance.
Old 07-22-2013, 12:09 AM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

The tarmac is only 50 meters.......and with the size of this plane, it does not realy matter if it takes off from grass or the tarmac.

The small 40 size planes like the tarmac
Old 07-23-2013, 12:40 AM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

here is maiden with my ngh in the 1/5 black horse fieseler storch. The storch is 2.40 out in the video. Used a bambula 18x8 got 7300rpm on ground.

The plane was nose heavy, I took off som lead later and it was much better.

The engine runs very well. but is hard to start. it kicks back when i`m flipping it.

I think a 20x8 will fit this plane better. And it will be scale size for the plane

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtn_oOLZ39I&feature=share&list=UUx6JVw9uYT QldoQpiBrF5MQ[/youtube]
Old 07-23-2013, 05:24 AM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

It actually looks very Tail heavy in the video ?
Old 07-23-2013, 05:46 AM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

Congrats on the maiden

I moved my timing the closest to 28 degrees, and mine does not kick back when starting.

If you lean the low speed needle a bit too much, it will become difficult to start, even with the choke on.
Mine likes to start very wet. My easiest starts are when you poor fuel directly into the carb
Old 07-23-2013, 05:58 AM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

although mine does start well by hand I use my Align starter on it and it fires right up really easliy, as the engine has a fair amount of rotating mass, if you rotate the prop all the way clock wise then hit it with the starter it spins over fast and starts every time.
I'm sure you are doing this but ensure that your prop is set an an appropriate position when you are ready to flip the prop to hand start it, use a glove and flick it all the way through compression and it shouldnt kick back (too much )
Old 07-23-2013, 08:35 AM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

I love my align starter . One of the hobbies best kept secretes ! cheers the pope
Old 07-23-2013, 08:29 PM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke


ORIGINAL: the pope

I love my align starter . One of the hobbies best kept secretes ! cheers the pope
Howdy "New Pope".Try this one.Second best kept secret.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...s_Engines.html

Old 07-23-2013, 09:21 PM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke


ORIGINAL: Turk1


ORIGINAL: the pope

I love my align starter . One of the hobbies best kept secretes ! cheers the pope
Howdy ''New Pope''.Try this one.Second best kept secret.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...s_Engines.html

Hi there Turk , defiantly a fair bit cheaper . I see it has been upgraded with a newer version . I remember ( I think ) looking at these a while ago and some were complaining that the belts were breaking and there were no new ones to replace them . Trust you to hunt out a rc bargain . I always seem to get the dearer stuff as I equate $ with quality but I'm trying to get that out of my system as there are some good buys especially at dare I say H.K. but they have there crap as well . I must say the align oozes quality and Ive had mine for about 2 yrs and its like brand new and very handy , it fires up my saito 82 very easy whereas my other starter used to struggle a bit . Anyway good to hear from you as you don't seem to be on here as much as in the past . Cheers from the new pope
Old 07-24-2013, 01:35 AM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

ORIGINAL: stevelesl

It actually looks very Tail heavy in the video ?
I know. It looks tail heavy because I had to hold almost max elevator to keep it in the air, and it is not what I will call owerpowered. I think it is perfect for this plane. If it was a another plane I thin it would have stalled in the take off

It flies mouch bette with less lead in the front. I will put out some more videos soon



think I wil try to move the sensor on the ignition to se if it will be easier to start.
Old 07-24-2013, 07:41 AM
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Default RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke

Howdy New Pope,I never have a starter. As you know,best starter is friend's starter .(Honestly I can start any engine with hand,at least my own).But my friends have it and they say now spare belt is available.Also at our side of the world "you buy what you pay for" saga is not  valid unlike western countries.
Old 08-30-2013, 04:26 PM
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Well I had an ALMOST disaster flying today. The soft aluminum mounting plate broke on all four bolts. That let the engine fall forward into the cowling. Lucky for me that the cowl was strong enough to hold the motor in place well enough to keep the thing from flying off the airframe. I killed the motor and made a dead stick landing. Minor gear damage only. I will have to build a much stronger mounting bracket. I guess the vibration is still there. But the motor still runs well.
Old 08-30-2013, 11:32 PM
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Glad you saved the plane.

I have bought a seagull Nemesis for my engine, and I have beam mounted it on the nylon mounts included in the kit.
Im looking forward to seeing how they absorb vibration.....or not :-)
Old 09-07-2013, 03:16 AM
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Although I have used glow engines for many years I am new to petrol engines.

I have an NGH 38 installed inverted. A few hours after running the engine I find that the spark plug is completely filled with oil. Is this normal? Am I right in assuming that the engine will not start in this condition or does fresh fuel clear it?

Removing the plug to clean it involves removing the cowl which is a pain but I can modify the cowl to make this possible. Is constant access to the plug considered essential? I have not modified the cowl so far because I find removing the plug cap quite difficult even when I have full access to the cylinder head. Trying to do it through a hole cut in the cowl does not fill me with optimism. Does anyone have any tips for easy removal of the plug cap?

I can, of course, store the model upside down (spark plug uppermost), though this is less convenient. It would also be difficult to transport it upside down so I would still be concerned about oil collecting in the plug during the journey.

As a petrol novice I would welcome any thoughts/advice. Thanks.
Old 09-07-2013, 04:23 AM
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With all inverted engines, if the engine stays inverted when not running for a while, the oil inside the crankcase will slowly migrate to the lowest point inside the engine. So you need to store your plane so that the engine is not inverted. I typically prop my planes up against the wall with the nose pointed down. Other people hang their planes with the engine upright in the garage rafters at home. Laying the plane on its side so that the engine is horizontal works too.

Before you go to start the engine, turn the prop around slowly and feel for a hydraulic lock situation. If you get a hydraulic lock condition, you need to clear it by removing the spark plug and draining the fluid out of the cylinder (probably clean off the plug too). Don't try to force it through in a hydraulic lock condition as it usually bends the connecting rod.

The same thing happens with the radial engines on the full size planes too. They have to check to make sure the bottom cylinders aren't filled with oil from the engine. It doesn't take all that much oil either
Old 09-07-2013, 08:26 AM
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Is your spark plug brown ?
If not, then you are still too rich, or you are still running on the factory recomended run in oil amount.
Old 09-07-2013, 08:57 AM
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Thanks for both your prompt replies.

I know about hydraulic lock from using glow engines. My concern is that this engine seems to accumulate more oil in the cylinder head than I am accustomed to with glow engines. I also imagine that it is more of an issue when it comes to starting. With a well-charged battery, glow plugs can generally cope with a bit of oil.

I am using the normal recommended oil content and the plug was brown when I checked after my last tuning session so I am not too far off the correct settings. However, old glow habits die hard so possibly I still have the carburettor a bit too rich. I’ll keep tinkering.

Before I start hacking access holes in the cowl please can you confirm that I should not need to have continual access to the plug once the engine is correctly tuned, particularly if I store the model nose down or inverted.

Thanks.
Old 09-07-2013, 01:29 PM
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But have you had trouble starting the engine ?

I bet once the engine starts running, then the plug will be blown "clean"
There is no way you can stop oil from seeping into the cylinder head when the engine is stopped.
Old 09-08-2013, 12:44 AM
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Starting is temperamental at the best of times so it is difficult to isolate one particular cause. I'll keep tinkering and, hopefully, get the engine to a point where I have confidence in it. From previous posts here it is clear that I am not alone in encountering problems with this engine. Thanks for your replies.
Old 09-08-2013, 07:02 AM
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oops sorry wrong thread

Last edited by earlwb; 09-08-2013 at 08:32 AM. Reason: wrong thread
Old 09-08-2013, 11:17 AM
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I have the same problem. when the engine is stored for a little time the sparkplug is full of oil. I use a starter to start the engine and it is no problem. But almost impossible to start by hand the first start every day.

ps. I use only 2% of a good synthetic 2stroke oil. And the engine is stil spitting wery much oil out of the went in the crankcase.

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