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NGH 38CC 4 stroke

Old 06-22-2015, 11:37 AM
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only 2% after the break inn
Old 06-22-2015, 11:44 AM
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Looks good! Unfortunately I will not be running the GF38 for a while as the ESM Corsair I was flying needs a new wing! Flying in a landing circuit with gear down, select 1/2 flap and spiralled into the vineyard. Looked like only one flap deployed. Am waiting for ESM to ship some new models to their distributors. In the meantime I am thinking of putting a GF38 onto a Greatplanes Super Stearman or Waco biplane. They are not in stock until September!!

ESM is not a very good company to deal with I think!!
Old 06-22-2015, 11:55 AM
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some rumors say that ESM is closing down. I dont know but it is always difficult to get spare parts.
Old 06-22-2015, 12:40 PM
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Yeah, I had heard the factory had closed, but then may be opening again, maybe new ownership, maybe. I don't know the full economics of manufacturing and supplying larger ARF models, but it seems to me that ESM had a fairly good range of 70-80" wingspan models ( good for the GF38) and larger 50cc size. My local hobby store will not get any more ESM products because they found the factory too hard to deal with . All they needed to do was tweak a few things (strengthen in a few areas) and dsitribute in a more customer friendly network and they could have gained quite a large portion of that area of the market.This assumes, of course, that there is a market for these size warbirds. I guess, with the world economic downturn and the advent of smaller, cheaper, electric powered models, not as many people are buying large gassers. Still, at my club there has been a recent trend towards internal combustion engines and larger models.
I guess I will have to wait and see. I think the Greatplanes Super Stearman with 71.5" wingspan would suit the GF38. But a warbird it is not!!
Old 06-22-2015, 12:57 PM
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Black horse have many nice warbirds that will fit the gf38. This one should be a racer with the gf38
http://blackhorsemodel.com.vn/?product=ju-87-stuka
Old 06-22-2015, 12:58 PM
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Black horse have many nice warbirds that will fit the gf38. This one should be a racer with the gf38
http://blackhorsemodel.com.vn/?product=ju-87-stuka
Old 06-22-2015, 01:45 PM
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That looks interesting. I will look at Blackhorse. Not sure about distributors though. I like the Stuka, I have a small foam Durafly Stuka and it is a great flier.
Old 06-22-2015, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tyor
Black horse have many nice warbirds that will fit the gf38. This one should be a racer with the gf38
http://blackhorsemodel.com.vn/?product=ju-87-stuka
What is the price on the Decathlon? Are they sold in the USA? Thanks

Last edited by captinjohn; 06-22-2015 at 07:25 PM.
Old 06-22-2015, 08:13 PM
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I dont know if they are sold in usa. I live i erupe and ordered the stroch from this page. http://www.hobbyfly.de/?___store=eng...m_store=german
Old 06-22-2015, 10:03 PM
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Tyor,
What is your impression of the Black Horse Storch?

I built the (discontinued) ESM Storch, it flies well but needed several mods

See here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...h-flyable.html
Old 06-23-2015, 06:57 AM
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I think the black horse storch is verry nice. just like the real thing. 2.85m vs. and 8kg. is a good combination. The landing gear is the weakest point of the plane. I am rebuilding mine now.
Old 06-23-2015, 06:09 PM
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Hello Guys,

I have not read all the thread ...just here and there as my time is very limited between regular job and CH job.
I have a gentleman that sent me one of this engines.
I have not checked the valves yet...but I will do that also.
I will start with engine look....It looks real nice done. I have not run one for long time to see how it holds up but I hope it does.
I check the timing using the piston stop and the electronic device as I have on the youtube video as someone share it here.
Timing was factory set @ 40BTDC when magnet leave the sensor. That is the time when the CDI should fire. NOT when it comes on at aprox 55BTDC.
If that happens and that is for all engines ....something is WRONG and watch your fingers. That could be a sensor problem, sensor it self or as I seen in many other cases,
sensor is not covering the magnet and is offset on either side and able to capture magnetic field from the side on the magnet.
At first I thought that the is a 40BTDC CDI....kinda doubt it but I know RCxel makes 40BTDC for a engine that is in the similar CC range, look and made by a reputable brand .
But after testing the CDI and contacting Liang @ Rcxel and asking about this CDI he also confirm that the CDI is in fact a 30BTDC and the factory set the timing wrong.
TOM, the programmer at RCXEL contacted NGH and let them know that they are setting this engine wrong. I do not know what NGH are going to do, if they are going to fix it...do not know.
What I know is that by setting the timing +10 degrees will make more power and I discover that on a Saito FA180 when I set it up wrong.
Engine will struggle on low end RPM and Idle but once it passes 2500RPM then runs better...will heat up a bit more.
The original sensor bracket will allow me to get a 36BTDC no less than that.

FIX....3 ways.
1....drill and tap the case to get 30BTDC
2...use JB WELD to fix the sensor to crankcase
3...use a OLD style clamp sensor that will allow you to move the sensor on any position....downside is that do not look as good. But will do the job as it did for so many,many years.

I hope that this will help you guys to understand your engine and options you have.

Thank you
Adrian
Old 06-23-2015, 07:17 PM
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One more is to use a ring on prop hub for magnet & use a small set screw to lock in the timing. Try 28 to 30 degrees & I bet you will have a better Idle. Maybe a smother engine when broke in & carb set right. Just a Idea Capt,n
Old 06-23-2015, 07:24 PM
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That could work also but need to be thick enough (3mm) and hope that the original magnet will not trigger the sensor but you will need to make a sensor holder also....
Or do a magnet ring, sensor ring combination like I use on OS 160,240,300 twin.
Should I make some of those rings available, will anyone be interested?

Adrian
Old 06-23-2015, 07:33 PM
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Somebody should be interested...it makes setting the timing very easy. Also Adrian makes the best looking ones.
Old 06-24-2015, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by CH Ignitions
That could work also but need to be thick enough (3mm) and hope that the original magnet will not trigger the sensor but you will need to make a sensor holder also....
Or do a magnet ring, sensor ring combination like I use on OS 160,240,300 twin.
Should I make some of those rings available, will anyone be interested?

Adrian
What about making the magnet ring so that the magnet faces the rear like to original C&H Electronics Saito set-up? That would eliminate the possibility of the original magnet triggering the sensor.

I gave one of my old C&H Electronics plastic ring magnet holders W/the magnet facing the rear to Hobbsy for the same purpose. He had already drilled his prop hub & installed a magnet. He had no adjustment so he wanted to go a different route.

The NGH ignition systems seem really odd to me & I think converting to C&H would pay dividends as far as reliability & user friendliness.
Old 06-24-2015, 10:50 AM
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the NGH ignition system is a standard rcxel. like that is on most of the 2-stroke engines.
Old 06-24-2015, 10:57 AM
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so....now we just need someone to try it at 28 degrees, and report back on how smoothe it runs, and some RPM numbers from various timings :-)
Old 06-24-2015, 11:10 AM
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I hav my engine off the plane now. i will test it one of the first days with various timings and put the numbers out here
Old 06-24-2015, 11:21 AM
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fantastic.....eager to hear about the vibration level at idle, if it makes a noticable difference
Old 06-24-2015, 04:35 PM
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+1 Capt,n
Old 06-24-2015, 04:46 PM
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I think it will idle more smoothly, but will lose high rpm performance. Just guessing! Will be interesting to see what Tyor finds out.
Old 06-24-2015, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ALFIEV
I think it will idle more smoothly, but will lose high rpm performance. Just guessing! Will be interesting to see what Tyor finds out.
40 degrees BTDC is way beyond optimum for an air cooled engine running on gasoline.

Even with water cooled engines running high octane gasoline, 36 degrees BTDC is max.
Old 06-26-2015, 08:39 PM
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Ok Guys, Here a video, it was real late. I got it to run decent. Couple things could be done to improve it but I do not have the time to do so at this moment.
But I said on the video couple things that I will do.
I leave for 3 WK vacation in Romania to see family and friends after 4 years. I will play more with one of this engines if some one sends me one. This one will go back on Monday to
it's owner.
Here is the video.

Thanks
Adrian

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaMxOid_NAQ

Last edited by CH Ignitions; 06-26-2015 at 08:43 PM.
Old 06-30-2015, 12:00 PM
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So, the weather here has been no good for flying, too windy. When I am not flying I get bored, need a project! I remembered that about 18 months ago I bought another GF38 as spares. I haven't needed the spares so the engine is still complete. I decided to put it on the test stand and see how it would run. Well.... to my pleasant surprise this engine is waaaay easier to run than my first one. I retarded the spark as per the first engine (filed the slots in the pick-up and moved anti-clockwise viewed as you face the engine), turned over a few revolutions without ignition on, turned on ignition and selected choke on, a few revolutions with my electric starter and it fired, selected choke off and a few more revolutions with the starter and she fired up and ran!!! I wasn't expecting much because my first engine was a pig to start, needed priming at the velocity stack to even get it to fire!! This engine fired up straight away, and I ran it at 3000 rpm on a Xoar 18x8 for about half a tank. It is running rich, I set it rich because I wanted to keep the temperature down and ensure plenty of lubrication. I have started to lean the idle, haven't tried high rpm yet.

This engine is running really nicely. The idle is a little high yet (2400 rpm) but I will lower that next run. I wont claim that it is a smooth runner, but honestly the vibrations are way less than I experienced with my first engine!!

Now I guess I have to find a frame for it!!!!

Last edited by ALFIEV; 06-30-2015 at 12:02 PM.

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