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NGH 38CC 4 stroke

Old 04-20-2016, 06:32 PM
  #1426  
Warrenwallace
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He said he was going to contact the manufacture about the threads on the new ones.
Old 04-21-2016, 02:20 AM
  #1427  
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This motor runs good. 1.5 gallons of gas.

Last edited by shorte; 04-24-2016 at 02:41 AM.
Old 04-27-2016, 01:26 PM
  #1428  
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I sold my motor and I have lots of parts let me know if you want to buy them.
Have new in package asp 180 muffler too.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/ite...itemID=1070898

Last edited by shorte; 05-03-2016 at 03:13 PM.
Old 05-29-2016, 01:28 PM
  #1429  
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So... I have had my "re-conned" engine flying on the Blackhorse Fieseler Storch. It flies well, the engine suits this model, as mentioned by Tyor, but there is quite a bit of cowl trimming to do!!

What I can say, without fear of contradiction, is that it doesn't run well if 3 out of the 4 mount bolts vibrate loose!!! I was so lucky not to lose this model!!! Well, I take full responsibility for the loosening. I normally locktite the hell out of these and it appears I may have missed that step!! So.... copius quantities of locktite on the mount bolts, and shake-proof washers, and constant monitoring and I think we'll be o.k!!
Old 06-29-2016, 06:01 PM
  #1430  
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Seems like Hobby King now stocks parts at a reasonable price.
Old 06-30-2016, 08:18 AM
  #1431  
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Would an ASP 180 muffler reduce RPMs too much? Would need to make a 14 x .75 mm adapter to screw onto the exhaust port. Anybody tried it and have RPM numbers?
Old 06-30-2016, 10:46 AM
  #1432  
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Boboeing, look here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...stroke-52.html
Old 07-02-2016, 04:27 PM
  #1433  
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Originally Posted by ernestino
Thanks. Very nice. I have some 5/16 inch thick aluminum and brass and a 14x.75 tap ready to go.
Old 07-05-2016, 11:42 AM
  #1434  
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Just a bit of an update on the 38 fitted to the Blackhorse Storch. Have had a hell of a time getting the engine mount bolts to stay tight. I believe the firewall is not built of very good quality ply and is compressing . Also, it seems that, even with locktite on the threads the bolts going into the stand-offs will loosen under the vibration.

So, I have epoxied an aluminium plate onto the back of the firewall, used large fender washers to spread the load of the tightened bolts on both sides of the firewall, and I bored the holes right through the stand-offs so that I can fit a bolt all the way through from front to back and put a nyloc lock-nut on to secure it. I have flown it since and these changes seem to have cured the problem.

This engine is a shaker. The short socket-head screws that thread into the stand-offs might not be good enough even with locktite. Boring through the stand-off and fitting a socket-head screw all the way through with a lock-nut at the rear might be required!!!
Old 07-05-2016, 08:38 PM
  #1435  
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Originally Posted by ALFIEV
Just a bit of an update on the 38 fitted to the Blackhorse Storch. Have had a hell of a time getting the engine mount bolts to stay tight. I believe the firewall is not built of very good quality ply and is compressing . Also, it seems that, even with locktite on the threads the bolts going into the stand-offs will loosen under the vibration.

So, I have epoxied an aluminium plate onto the back of the firewall, used large fender washers to spread the load of the tightened bolts on both sides of the firewall, and I bored the holes right through the stand-offs so that I can fit a bolt all the way through from front to back and put a nyloc lock-nut on to secure it. I have flown it since and these changes seem to have cured the problem.

This engine is a shaker. The short socket-head screws that thread into the stand-offs might not be good enough even with locktite. Boring through the stand-off and fitting a socket-head screw all the way through with a lock-nut at the rear might be required!!!
You could also try thin high durometer rubber washers, maybe 1/16 inch thick, between the fender washers and fire wall. Tightened down the compresive force of the rubber helps keep bolts from turning. The fender washers and rubber washers should be about 3/4 inch in diameter.
Old 07-05-2016, 11:52 PM
  #1436  
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Originally Posted by ALFIEV
So, I have epoxied an aluminium plate onto the back of the firewall, used large fender washers to spread the load of the tightened bolts on both sides of the firewall, and I bored the holes right through the stand-offs so that I can fit a bolt all the way through from front to back and put a nyloc lock-nut on to secure it. I have flown it since and these changes seem to have cured the problem.
You can also use 1.5mm G10 epoxy board instead of aluminum sheet - lighter and stiffer

Old 07-06-2016, 05:12 PM
  #1437  
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Question, why do folks buy the NHG 38 with all the problems they seem to have? It must be the low price of a engine that sounds good...thinking all the probems can be easy to fix? ? Go fiuure !
Old 07-07-2016, 11:15 AM
  #1438  
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I have 2 ngh 38cc. only problem is some vibration. Never had a deadstick. they run and run. If I need another engine in that size I think I will by another one.
Old 07-07-2016, 11:38 AM
  #1439  
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Hi Tyor,

did you ever have problems keeping your engine mount bolts tight on the Storch? I seem to have sorted it now, but had to make some changes. Storch is a very docile flier ehhhh?
Old 07-07-2016, 08:09 PM
  #1440  
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I had to retight them once, because of the soft firewall. Then I use big washers on both sides and lock tight.

on my ESM Val. I use a nylon engine mount, the one that came with the kit. it takes a lot of the vibration.

The storch is a fun plane to fly, Do you put cg where it stands in tha manual? that is very nose heavy.
Old 07-10-2016, 11:42 AM
  #1441  
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Yes, I have the cg fairly much as recommended. When I feel more comfortable with the model I could look at moving it back I guess. Have also struggled with the landing gear a bit. The LH strut, the lower part has fallen out so that the wheel and lower portion of the strut are on the ground. Lucky it didn't happen in the air!!! The small screw which slides in the slot of the upper portion of the strut had vibrated loose. You can not access this screw to tighten because it is inside the strut fairing. I had to pull the strut fairing apart to access the screw. This is not easy to do without causing damage!! I have now Loctited the screw in. I hope it stays in, I don't want to do a one wheel landing with this!!!!
Old 07-10-2016, 11:53 AM
  #1442  
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same thing with my landinggear. I lost one wheel in the air and landed on one wheel one time. that was not to bad. You can hold it on one wheel with the aileron almost to it stop. only broke the prop I was alone that day som had the camera on a stand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5T1nkZGnmRg
Old 07-10-2016, 11:56 AM
  #1443  
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I have made a mod on my landinggear from a old svenson kit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFOzZPD_ZxM
Old 07-10-2016, 05:12 PM
  #1444  
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Hahhah!! Well done landing with one wheel!! I will avoid it if I can!!

Your replacement landing gear looks really good. Very scale and I bet it works well!!
Old 07-17-2016, 07:10 AM
  #1445  
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Would this NGH 38 CC engine be powerful enough for an 81 inch Spitfire with an all up weight of 18 pounds ? I've seen it on an ESM VAL with an 81 inch wing span but have no idea how much that model weighs.
Old 07-17-2016, 07:26 AM
  #1446  
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My val has an all up weight of 8.5kg (18 pounds) so I think it should be ok.
Old 07-17-2016, 05:08 PM
  #1447  
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Originally Posted by tyor
My val has an all up weight of 8.5kg (18 pounds) so I think it should be ok.
Thanks....I've been looking at the Top RC Model Spitfire MK IX or the Great Planes Waco.....The Val looks really nice too but way more work and experience required to complete than I'm capable of.
I noticed that the needles are at such an angle at the back of the carburetor that it may be hard to make adjustments once mounted on an air frame. Have there been any issues or concerns there?
Old 07-24-2016, 08:39 AM
  #1448  
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Default Prop Throwing

Have my un-flown GF-38 now installed in my Flair Tiger Moth and an initial ground run performed just to prove the throttle and fuel connections. However the engine continues to occasionally stop causing what I think is called a hydraulic lock, which in turn results in the prop coming lose. Is that a sign that the timing is not correct?

On the positive side the home made exhaust is a great success making the engine a lot quieter.


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Old 07-24-2016, 11:08 AM
  #1449  
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When i had that happen on my yS120's and OS 120 Four cycles the engine was too lean and pinging or preignition.

once enriched them a bit the issue went away, Did not take much either

maybe that's your issue?

Bill S.
Old 07-24-2016, 11:29 AM
  #1450  
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I think your ignition is set to high(early) try to loosen the 2 screws on the sensor and move it a little in the same direction as the engine move.

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