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NGH 38CC 4 stroke

Old 09-27-2016, 12:48 AM
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Mine only have around 45 minutes and an hour and a half of running, it would be interesting to hear how many have clocked up significant hours without problem but I suspect you will only see posts from people with questions or issues.
"Its best to buy real proven engines. A lot less stress........." but proven four strokes are thin on the ground and other brands are MUCH more expensive! Do a search, I'm pretty sure I've seen a number of posts from unhappy Saito etc. owners.
The only issue I've had so far is that the timing on both engines was way too advanced.
I'm running 35:1 Castrol 2T synthetic oil and getting 7150 rpm on Fiala 19*8 wood props.
Old 09-27-2016, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Boboeing
Try hand start as follows for cold start.....Ignition off... open throttle all the way and close choke. Flip until you see fuel in line just entering carburetor. Ignition on....flip until it pops. Reduce throttle to just slightly open ..(what would be about 3000 RPM if it were running) ...open choke and flip briskly.
If it starts and dies...just repeat as above except draw more fuel by giving it an extra flip or two after it pops with choke still closed.
OK, So with about 20 minutes of flipping I actually got it to hand start. It really seems to need to be wet to start, any wetter and I would have to wear boots. Hopefully it will start easier inverted.

Next things being next, what do you suggest for a procedure to do a warm restart?

D.H.
Old 09-27-2016, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveHickey
OK, So with about 20 minutes of flipping I actually got it to hand start. It really seems to need to be wet to start, any wetter and I would have to wear boots. Hopefully it will start easier inverted.

Next things being next, what do you suggest for a procedure to do a warm restart?

D.H.
Yes....It needs to be wet for a cold start. For a warm start just close throttle to a fast idle and flip briskly. No choke required unless you allowed it to cool down before restarting.
Old 09-27-2016, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by robc57
Mine only have around 45 minutes and an hour and a half of running, it would be interesting to hear how many have clocked up significant hours without problem but I suspect you will only see posts from people with questions or issues.
"Its best to buy real proven engines. A lot less stress........." but proven four strokes are thin on the ground and other brands are MUCH more expensive! Do a search, I'm pretty sure I've seen a number of posts from unhappy Saito etc. owners.
The only issue I've had so far is that the timing on both engines was way too advanced.
I'm running 35:1 Castrol 2T synthetic oil and getting 7150 rpm on Fiala 19*8 wood props.
To facilitate longer engine life I would suggest 25:1 oil to gas ratio.
Old 09-27-2016, 11:57 PM
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? I'm just going by the UK importer (Just Engines) recommendations. Maybe I'll add a drop more oil to the 35:1 mix I've got left, exhaust residue doesn't seem a problem even on the short time engine (45 minutes - ish) that's still on the 20:1 that I use for the small Evolution. Most mess comes from the breather, even that's less than my large glow four strokes produce.
Old 10-01-2016, 10:46 AM
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Just got mine from Hobby King. Has anyone addressed the sloppy prop hub? Looks to me like it would change the timing 1 to 2 degrees. I just saw a YouTube video where the guy showed himself rocking the prop hub back and forth. Mine does this also . I removed the hub and the slot for the reporting key is way too wide. Key woodruf

Last edited by Rchobbyguys; 10-01-2016 at 10:56 AM.
Old 10-01-2016, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Rchobbyguys
Just got mine from Hobby King. Has anyone addressed the sloppy prop hub? Looks to me like it would change the timing 1 to 2 degrees. I just saw a YouTube video where the guy showed himself rocking the prop hub back and forth. Mine does this also . I removed the hub and the slot for the reporting key is way too wide. Key woodruf
One or two degrees one way or the other won't make much difference in how the engine runs. To be consistent just turn the hub the same direction up against the key each time before tightening the prop nut. Once the prop is tightened down there will be no play with respect to the prop shaft.
Old 10-04-2016, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by discus-fly
Well not entirely convinced I have put to bed my kick back issues. Procured a new sensor which I cut away some of the plastic away at the fixings and managed to get the timing back to around 35 deg BTDC. On my initial starts the prop again came lose on at least 3 occasions. So on the third occasion I got a far larger wrench out of the tool box to do both nuts up. Eventually after much finger flicking got the engine to run and found I need to richin considerably the high speed jet by at least 3 or 4 turns to get a clean running engine. Slow running screw needed a tadge of leaning, but at least it ran with smooth acceleration.
I noticed that the prop nut will bottom on the shaft threads and not supply enough clamping force especially with a birch prop that compresses. This then lets the prop rotate against the knurled surface of the drive ring and grind away wood further thinning the prop hub and aggravating the problem. I added a washer on the front of the prop and fixed the problem, for now... D.H.
Old 10-09-2016, 11:23 PM
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One more thing I noticed during repair of my engine – on my engine there were 3 gaskets part No. F38303. On exploded parts view for this engine , there is only one gasket. If I use only one gasket motor has no compression.

The answer I got from NGH support:
Dear sirs:

"The F38303 is Cam cover gaskets, It is used to adjust the engine accuracy.

The mechanical processing itself have error, So each engine decide to use how much based on its own characteristics ,It's belong to the normal phenomenon.

Have a nice day.
Best regards."


Next move is to replace camshaft, but I don`t know how many gaskets should I use.
Old 12-10-2016, 08:35 PM
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Just came across this engine while looking for something in this size in gas for my B-25. I am considering the FG-40 to power it, but would like to know if this engine will have what it takes to fly the Ziroli 101" B-25.
Old 12-11-2016, 07:20 AM
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I think that the 38cc version would be a little much, it would be like installing 30-33cc 2 strokes which is a bit much for the 101" airframe. Take a look at the 30CC version of this engone, I think that is a better match. D.H.
Old 12-11-2016, 07:49 AM
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The Ziroli is recommended by other builders to use a pair of DLE 35RA. Anything less and it is under powered. So if the 38 can equate to a DLE 35RA, then these are the engines I would want. Looks like I would need to fabricate a muffler though, but this build has been a challenge from the start. I was originally planning on a pair of FG-40, but they are pricey.
Old 12-11-2016, 08:43 PM
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I was going by the Kit recommendation of a couple of 25s, if 35cc 2 strokes are needed you should be good with the NGH 38s if they will fit, they are pretty tall, however being 4 strokes I wouldn't sweat the muffler. Mine isn't very loud (for what it is) and it is a softer note than a 2 stroke.
.
Old 12-12-2016, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by acdii
The Ziroli is recommended by other builders to use a pair of DLE 35RA. Anything less and it is under powered. So if the 38 can equate to a DLE 35RA, then these are the engines I would want. Looks like I would need to fabricate a muffler though, but this build has been a challenge from the start. I was originally planning on a pair of FG-40, but they are pricey.

If you decide to go with the NGH 38 you can get the mufflers from Just Engines in UK. They supply the muffler as standard along with the short pipe that comes from factory.
Instead of the standoff's JEN supplies a beefy metal mount.
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Old 12-12-2016, 07:28 AM
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Mine (from Agape Racing) came with that mount. D.H.
Old 12-13-2016, 07:05 AM
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That is excellent Dave
Old 04-21-2017, 12:50 PM
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Good news. A guy at the Toledo show had a pair of these brand new. The new ones eliminated the standoffs which were an issue and supply the hard mount above. They also come with the carb already attached. I saw that type of muffler on the HK website, almost ordered them, but I want to hear these first and see how they fit on the plane. From the looks of it, and what he was telling me, his group have several of them and fly them all the time, that these are really good engines, and have been trouble free. Can't beat the price either, best deal so far.
Old 04-30-2017, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mchandrayan
If you decide to go with the NGH 38 you can get the mufflers from Just Engines in UK. They supply the muffler as standard along with the short pipe that comes from factory.
Instead of the standoff's JEN supplies a beefy metal mount.
Looks like Hobby King sells that muffler now. Both of the engines I got are brand new and they made changes to them from what has been posted. They now come with the solid mount instead of stand offs. The carb is attached at the factory instead of loose. They guy I bought it from has several of them and a few of his flying buddies are using them as well. They say they are really good engines, and he was reluctant to sell me the second one, he only brought one to sell. These engines look too good to put in a cowl.
Old 05-10-2017, 02:00 PM
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If you're still out there, can either Tyor or ALFIEV (or anyone else with a Black Horse Storch) post some closeup photos of your NGH engine setup (both with and without the cowl)? Did anyone ever consider mounting it at an angle, instead of totally inverted (and would it clear the cowl without cutting that way)?
Old 05-10-2017, 08:19 PM
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here are some pics.
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Old 05-11-2017, 04:12 AM
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Tyor,
Nice plane, how it fly??
Old 05-11-2017, 06:10 AM
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It's flying like the real storch
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/166629210" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p><a href="https://vimeo.com/166629210">black horse storch. ngh gf 38</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user13422642">Tom Nohr</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
Old 05-11-2017, 09:16 AM
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Thanks for the photos, Tyor. I can't really tell for sure as the angles are all too high, but it looks like the answer to my question is that canting the motor to one side will not help much in clearing the cowl. Am I correct?
Old 05-11-2017, 12:29 PM
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yes I think you are correct.
Old 05-11-2017, 01:04 PM
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The 30CC is a bit shorter, could you get by with that amount of power and do you think it would fit better? D.H.

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