vvrc 40cc twin
12-11-2013, 10:43 AM
#26
Mine arrived yesterday. It took more time than expected to get here using Fed Ex ground.
I took it out of the wraps and turned it over. Very good compression, better than any other engine with one exception, the OS GT33. It feels fairly stiff as I turn it, but that should go away with run time, making for a tight feel and long life after full break in.
I didn't realize that the heads can be purchased either for the small spark plug or the more typical CM6 size plug. Unfortunately mine came equipped with the small plugs. I will probably return itto getthe more conventional plugs
Early photos showed the engine with a single prop nut, which was a selling point for me. My engine came with the four screws in front. It's okay but I'd prefer the single nut because that opens up the whole array of APC props with narrow hubs this engine can turn.I have an 18.5 x 9.5 Wide hub apc prop ready drilled for a DLE35 that should work for break in; I assume the bolt pattern is the same
A nice touch is the fact that the engine is prerun for quality assurance.
I found it interesting that they recommend Stihl Ultra as the oil of choice and then proceed to say that the oil is biodegradable, losing 80% of its life after 3 weeks. I suppose that means that once mixed it better get used up quickly. I have no plan to use that oil. I'm staying with what I knopw works well for me....
I took it out of the wraps and turned it over. Very good compression, better than any other engine with one exception, the OS GT33. It feels fairly stiff as I turn it, but that should go away with run time, making for a tight feel and long life after full break in.
I didn't realize that the heads can be purchased either for the small spark plug or the more typical CM6 size plug. Unfortunately mine came equipped with the small plugs. I will probably return itto getthe more conventional plugs
Early photos showed the engine with a single prop nut, which was a selling point for me. My engine came with the four screws in front. It's okay but I'd prefer the single nut because that opens up the whole array of APC props with narrow hubs this engine can turn.I have an 18.5 x 9.5 Wide hub apc prop ready drilled for a DLE35 that should work for break in; I assume the bolt pattern is the same
A nice touch is the fact that the engine is prerun for quality assurance.
I found it interesting that they recommend Stihl Ultra as the oil of choice and then proceed to say that the oil is biodegradable, losing 80% of its life after 3 weeks. I suppose that means that once mixed it better get used up quickly. I have no plan to use that oil. I'm staying with what I knopw works well for me....
12-11-2013, 03:05 PM
#28
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Just got back from Florida........didn't want to come back to Michigan..........brrrrrrrrr !
I haven't mounted the engine to my TBM Cessna 195 yet. All I did was hold up the engine into the cowl. Looks like plenty of room within the cowl without needing to cut out the sides of the cowl to allow for spark plug cable fit.
Joe M.
01-12-2014, 08:07 PM
#31
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Here is a video of my Hangar 9 Cirrus 22, the VVRC 40cc twin fit perfectly!
http://youtu.be/jH4IFb4VVlM
http://youtu.be/jH4IFb4VVlM
01-16-2014, 06:10 AM
#36
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Here is a video of my Hangar 9 Cirrus 22, the VVRC 40cc twin fit perfectly!
http://youtu.be/jH4IFb4VVlM
http://youtu.be/jH4IFb4VVlM
01-16-2014, 05:43 PM
#37
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSaqgjMpStY
01-19-2014, 06:43 PM
#38
I got some flights in with the VVRC 40cc on my Hangar 9 Cirrus. The maiden flight started off great until the engine died suddenly in mid-flight. Fortunately I was in a position to land safely with no damage. Upon inspection I found that the port side spark plug cable came loose causing the engine to quit. Yes, I know how to turn and lock the spark plug boots, this one was loose fit, rotated a little from the vibration and came loose. I fixed it by tie wrapping the cable to the firewall. Went back out today and got four flights with no issues. Here is the video from yesterday's flight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SEGOOce1XQ
This plane is very fast with this engine, landings were pretty easy with full flaps. Engine idles very nicely.
This plane is very fast with this engine, landings were pretty easy with full flaps. Engine idles very nicely.
03-31-2014, 12:37 PM
#39
I now have 12 flights on the VV 40cc in my Cirrus. I fixed the dead sticking problem richening up the low end, had to go a full turn! I then flew it 8 more flights to let it loosen up a bit and then changed the prop to a Beila 18x10 3 blade and then leaned up the low end 1/4 turn and she is running perfectly now! With this prop the engine idles reliably at 1250 RPM. Also, now that I have a little time on the engine I have noticed that it's very easy to hand prop consistently starts in 3-4 flips after proper choking. RPM WOT on the ground held static is 6350, RPM in the air WOT is 8900 (measured using telemetry), I have not clocked airspeed yet but it's definitely in 95-105 mph range straight and level. I also pulled the 1/4 plugs after 10 flights and they did not look fowled in anyway.
03-31-2014, 02:11 PM
#40
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I now have 12 flights on the VV 40cc in my Cirrus. I fixed the dead sticking problem richening up the low end, had to go a full turn! I then flew it 8 more flights to let it loosen up a bit and then changed the prop to a Beila 18x10 3 blade and then leaned up the low end 1/4 turn and she is running perfectly now! With this prop the engine idles reliably at 1250 RPM. Also, now that I have a little time on the engine I have noticed that it's very easy to hand prop consistently starts in 3-4 flips after proper choking. RPM WOT on the ground held static is 6350, RPM in the air WOT is 8900 (measured using telemetry), I have not clocked airspeed yet but it's definitely in 95-105 mph range straight and level. I also pulled the 1/4 plugs after 10 flights and they did not look fowled in anyway.
I have the same VVRC 40cc twin in my 107" Troy Built Cessna 195. For spark plugs, I went with the standard CM-6 NGK's. I'm still waiting for all of this nasty white stuff to evaporate so I can get in the maiden. Glad to hear you have a good engine.
Joe M.
04-05-2014, 04:23 AM
#41
I just installed this on a H9 1/4 scale Super Cub. Removed a G26.
Wow, what a difference. I replaced the cowl because I had to butcher the cowl to get the 26 in. The small plug version fits perfectly with just the exhaust sticking out the bottom. Had to throw so lead in the nose because the VV is a lot lighter than the Zenoah.
Had an airframe issue so I couldn't fly yesterday but its got a lot of compression and once the first start with the starter was out of the way, it ran really good. I can't wait to get it in the air.
I have some different props to try but I think a Falcon carbon 20x9 is going to be the ticket.
Wow, what a difference. I replaced the cowl because I had to butcher the cowl to get the 26 in. The small plug version fits perfectly with just the exhaust sticking out the bottom. Had to throw so lead in the nose because the VV is a lot lighter than the Zenoah.
Had an airframe issue so I couldn't fly yesterday but its got a lot of compression and once the first start with the starter was out of the way, it ran really good. I can't wait to get it in the air.
I have some different props to try but I think a Falcon carbon 20x9 is going to be the ticket.
04-06-2014, 07:28 PM
#43
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I tired a 21X8 prop on mine. Kept the motor from turning over 7K on the ground but I think I'm going to try a 20X10 carbon prop and see how the motor does. Almost four gallon thur the VVRC and it runs like a sewing machine.
04-09-2014, 08:51 AM
#44
Senior Member
Yeah one can put a single nut adapter on this engine but at 3 ounces for this mod, it isn't worth the weight gain.
05-11-2014, 08:16 AM
#48
Mine arrived yesterday. It took more time than expected to get here using Fed Ex ground.
I took it out of the wraps and turned it over. Very good compression, better than any other engine with one exception, the OS GT33. It feels fairly stiff as I turn it, but that should go away with run time, making for a tight feel and long life after full break in.
I didn't realize that the heads can be purchased either for the small spark plug or the more typical CM6 size plug. Unfortunately mine came equipped with the small plugs. I will probably return itto getthe more conventional plugs
Early photos showed the engine with a single prop nut, which was a selling point for me. My engine came with the four screws in front. It's okay but I'd prefer the single nut because that opens up the whole array of APC props with narrow hubs this engine can turn.I have an 18.5 x 9.5 Wide hub apc prop ready drilled for a DLE35 that should work for break in; I assume the bolt pattern is the same
A nice touch is the fact that the engine is prerun for quality assurance.
I found it interesting that they recommend Stihl Ultra as the oil of choice and then proceed to say that the oil is biodegradable, losing 80% of its life after 3 weeks. I suppose that means that once mixed it better get used up quickly. I have no plan to use that oil. I'm staying with what I knopw works well for me....
I took it out of the wraps and turned it over. Very good compression, better than any other engine with one exception, the OS GT33. It feels fairly stiff as I turn it, but that should go away with run time, making for a tight feel and long life after full break in.
I didn't realize that the heads can be purchased either for the small spark plug or the more typical CM6 size plug. Unfortunately mine came equipped with the small plugs. I will probably return itto getthe more conventional plugs
Early photos showed the engine with a single prop nut, which was a selling point for me. My engine came with the four screws in front. It's okay but I'd prefer the single nut because that opens up the whole array of APC props with narrow hubs this engine can turn.I have an 18.5 x 9.5 Wide hub apc prop ready drilled for a DLE35 that should work for break in; I assume the bolt pattern is the same
A nice touch is the fact that the engine is prerun for quality assurance.
I found it interesting that they recommend Stihl Ultra as the oil of choice and then proceed to say that the oil is biodegradable, losing 80% of its life after 3 weeks. I suppose that means that once mixed it better get used up quickly. I have no plan to use that oil. I'm staying with what I knopw works well for me....
This got me thinking, as I switched over to the Stihl Ultra. So I shot an email off to Stihl to get their opinion. This is the reply I got. Very interesting. This would seem to be the real issue with pump gas, and why it may be a good idea to use something else. (avgas, white gas)
"Mr. Perry,
Thank you for your email. The shelf life of our engine oil before it is mixed (sealed or unsealed) is approximately five years. Once the fuel is mixed, the oil itself does not necessarily degrade any faster. It is actually the gasoline in the fuel mixture that deteriorates long before the oil. Today’s gasoline is formulated to operate best in automobiles with the expectation that the fuel will be used within 3 weeks to a month after it is sold. Gasoline companies do not take small engine products into account when designing fuels. For this reason STIHL and other manufacturers recommend that fuel mix over 30 days old is not used in small engine equipment. Gasoline consists of chains of hydrocarbon molecules of various lengths. As the fuel ages the lighter chemicals in the fuel evaporate out. In addition the remaining components can combine into other chemicals. For example you may have heard the term, "the fuel has varnished". Basically the fuel at this point is less combustible and burns abnormally in the engine. Since the fuel isn't actually "gasoline" any longer, it doesn't burn completely and you are left with fuel and mix oil residue in the engine. In most cases the engine will not operate long enough to cause severe damage since the residue will cause the rings to stick, the engine will lose compression, and will not start. This ‘varnished’ fuel also does damage to the internal parts of the carburetor often damaging it beyond repair. Normally, the only option to correct this problem is a re-build or, more likely, replacement of the carburetor as well as a possible fuel line replacement and complete engine clean-out if the problem is severe. This is issue can be avoided by draining out the unit and running it until the engine runs out of fuel if the saw is going to be stored for more than 30 days. If you prefer to have fuel in the unit in case of an emergency, we suggest a stable fuel such as our STIHL MotoMix which has a two year shelf life once the can is opened and does not have the harmful additives pump gasoline contains. Drain the fuel from the tank and add a little bit of MotoMix. Start the unit and allow it to run for a couple minutes to get the fuel through the fuel system. This is the method I personally use and it has been very successful. I hope this is helpful and please let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Thanks again."
Or maybe do as they say and run that motomix, sort of like an after run oil we are used to, before putting up our planes for the winter. Might save some maintenance grief down the road.
Last edited by vertical grimmace; 05-11-2014 at 08:18 AM.
05-13-2014, 03:24 AM
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I've been a Fly RC subscriber for a long time, and I may have overlooked it, but I don't remember seeing a review on this particular engine.
Will there be an upcoming review ?
Joe M.