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AGM30 Gas engine

Old 08-19-2013, 05:30 AM
  #26  
earlwb
 
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I think that lease or rental feature as a "try before you buy" is a good thing. It is a step up from the other engine companies too. That means they are really confident in how their engines work and are manufactured.
Old 08-19-2013, 06:37 AM
  #27  
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I'm liking that 60cc twin, for $400 price is good to me. I wonder what size 3-blade prop that will swing?
Old 08-19-2013, 07:41 AM
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Edwin
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Subscribed. Always interested in new engines. But I'll stand back and let someone else be the early adopter. What ignition module will be used. And what will the timing setup be, 28deg, 32deg?
Edwin
Old 08-19-2013, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Edwin View Post
Subscribed. Always interested in new engines. But I'll stand back and let someone else be the early adopter. What ignition module will be used. And what will the timing setup be, 28deg, 32deg?
Edwin
Yeah!! I'm right behind you, Edwin.
Old 08-19-2013, 11:02 AM
  #30  
AGMUSA
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Now AGM 30CC engine use RCEXL ignition system, later we will use both RCEXL and RCAME ignition for our engines
Old 08-19-2013, 12:27 PM
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denney47
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I wonder how long this will last?
DLE has not stopped production on the 30cc engine, not sure where that came from?
Tom
Old 08-19-2013, 04:40 PM
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rcguy59
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:59 PM
  #33  
Mikola
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Originally Posted by AGMUSA View Post
60CC twin engine is not from AGM. it's from other engine factory
which one http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...l#post10851033
Old 08-19-2013, 08:29 PM
  #34  
bcchi
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Originally Posted by denney47 View Post
I wonder how long this will last?
DLE has not stopped production on the 30cc engine, not sure where that came from?
Tom
I think I will lease some engines.Have started on the Yac,anxious to run the VV twin.Three VV 20s flying here now all doing great.
BCCHI Grumpty no two.
Old 08-20-2013, 05:00 PM
  #35  
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Got my AGM30 today first impressions are very good, correct about being rcexl ignition, walbro WT759 carb which has the auto choke off feature when you open throttle, also comes with a epoxy board extension horn for the throttle lever.
Also like the fact that all the bolts supplied are stainless, not the usual black ones that rust.

Will post more details and pics tomorrow
Old 08-20-2013, 05:24 PM
  #36  
rcguy59
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Lowest fee to be a beta-tester that I've seen yet.
Old 08-20-2013, 05:34 PM
  #37  
flyinwalenda
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So the ignition is a REAL Rcexl and not a copy?
Also curious if any DLE parts interchange with this engine ?
Old 08-20-2013, 08:32 PM
  #38  
AGMUSA
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All AGM engine use RCEXL CDI now. reliable and not expensive, if buy directly from RCEXL factory .
Old 08-21-2013, 03:55 AM
  #39  
Xairflyer
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Some pics as promised.

I always like to open a new engine to check for swarf especially after having one damaged from it before so I took some pics with the barrel off.

The conrod appears to be copper coated steel, not sure why and would have thought the lower mating surface of the head/barrel would have been machined rather than left as cast.

Some dimensions below, I personally like the fact it is longer than others from the front of the head to the prop flange, helps with narrow cowl setups.
Overall height is from bottom of engine to top of plug not incl plug cap.
The exhaust flange is 3mm so makes head 67mm wide at this point, again only maybe useful for where space is tight.

Supplied silencer box is 72x54mm. 38mm overall out from engine exhaust flange, 20mm outlet pipe & 5mm bolt centres are like DLE30, CRRC26 etc 34mm.

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Last edited by Xairflyer; 08-21-2013 at 03:58 AM.
Old 08-21-2013, 04:00 AM
  #40  
Xairflyer
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Think RCU need to sort out their picture spacing defaults looks bad all tight together
Old 08-21-2013, 04:16 AM
  #41  
flyinwalenda
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Thanks for the pics.
I believe I have the same carb on some CRRC engines. The ratchet spring choke is very handy and works well as does the carb.
Old 08-21-2013, 04:39 AM
  #42  
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At first I would be concerned with the as cast surface of the barrel base and crankcase top not being machined nicely smooth and flat. But MVVS a long time ago had a problem with their larger gas engines having the gasket get blown out from between the cylinder and crankcase. So MVVS roughened up the surfaces to solve the problem. Then the gasket would stay put and not get blown out. So it is difficult to say whether it is a good thing or not. But if the mating surfaces are square and straight, then it would not be a problem as the gasket would stay in there really good like that.

Using a steel connecting rod lets one use the inside surface of the rod for a needle bearing race, thus keeping the overall size smaller at the big end and little end. Steel rods are not a problem as they use them in really big engines too. But with needle bearings the rod bearing surfaces and the crankpin need to be hardened for it. My Harley Motorcycle actually uses steel rods, and they make special steel rods for drag racing engines too. My old vintage 1967 Fox Blue head .60 engine uses needle bearings on the steel rod too. The early OS Max .80 engines used needle bearings and a steel rod as well. Someone else doing more current Supter Tigre .90 engine conversions makes a steel rod with needle bearing parts for their conversions. Many if not of the utility engines such as the trimmer engines use steel rods with needle bearings too.

Thanks for posting the pics of the engine. It is looking pretty good.

Last edited by earlwb; 08-21-2013 at 04:47 AM. Reason: add more information
Old 08-21-2013, 04:53 AM
  #43  
Xairflyer
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So is the copper coating on the conrod just rust prevention?
Old 08-21-2013, 07:19 AM
  #44  
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Yes that is correct, as far as I can tell, that is the reason they copper coat the steel rods, to prevent corrosion.
Old 08-21-2013, 07:44 AM
  #45  
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So, it seems from what you guys are saying, this engine seems to be good so far???
Old 08-21-2013, 07:56 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by hsukaria View Post
So, it seems from what you guys are saying, this engine seems to be good so far???
Isn't it a little early to draw such a conclusion? Don't get me wrong, I too would love if we could have a 30cc engine to power our models at such an attractive price. Notwithstanding, I would allow time for the motor to be put into operation and review some actual flight reports.

DaleD
Old 08-21-2013, 07:58 AM
  #47  
Edwin
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Yeah, I'll withhold comment until people I trust on the forums have had a chance to fly the engine.
The proof is in the running.
Edwin
Old 08-21-2013, 08:37 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by earlwb View Post
Yes that is correct, as far as I can tell, that is the reason they copper coat the steel rods, to prevent corrosion.
Most of the 2 stroke engines we use along with the majority of lawn equipment, chain saws, etc. use copper plated steel rods. While this may make them less prone to corrosion, this isn't the main reason for the copper plating. These rods all use needle bearings and the outer race of the bearing is the rod surface itself. This requires the rod to have a hardened bearing surface yet it is not desirable to have the whole rod hardened. The copper plating resists the surface hardening process allowing localized hardening only where the plating is missing .... such as the bearing bores. Its really that simple.

Some (few) of our engines use aluminum rods but these require a cup style needle bearing that is pressed into the rod. You usually see these on engines that use a cantilever crankshaft. Some examples of engines using aluminum rods are Brison, FPE and most of the newer smaller gassers such as the Evolution line to mention just a few.

There are advantages and disadvantages for each type of rod and bearing type ..... I won't attempt to start that discussion here. These AGM engines are just using the most common type of connection rod so nothing new, different or unusual here.
Old 08-21-2013, 10:16 AM
  #49  
Xairflyer
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Thanks Truckracer for the explanation, something I never knew.

I did'nt buy it to sit on the shelf, I have a new scale model ready for it, just have to make a custom exhaust hoping to have it flying at weekend but intend to bench run the engine before that, will check timing etc as well.

One thing I noticed was in the glossy manual/brochure it states as a starting point Low needle should be 1.1 turns out and high 1.5. My carb had low 13/4 out and high 3/4, so a bit different, it does state the needles are preset at the factory but I think going by my other petrols the manual starting points are more correct.
Old 08-21-2013, 10:40 AM
  #50  
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One other point, several of my Chinese engines have a rough mating / gasket surface. No real reason for it being super smooth and as others have mentioned, there can be disadvantages. I feel some of these are actually machined then bead or otherwise blasted for the final appearance. Same for the cylinder as a whole. These are pressure die castings now and fairly smooth as cast. They are probably tumbled or bead blasted for the final appearance.

I'm anxious to hear how these engines work out. I suspect they will pretty much mirror the DLE 30 which is good actually.

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