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AGM30 Gas engine

Old 08-29-2013, 03:24 PM
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j301
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Originally Posted by hsukaria View Post
That's what I have in mind, but I want it at $100. That's not asking too much, is it?
Long nights of scouring the forums might yield some results, or you could happen upon a disgruntled R.C.er during one of those "I'm selling all this crap!" phase, but other then that, the G in Zenoah typically stands for "G, wish I had enough dough..." (but as an owner of two, gotta say if you want an engine that just runs, and runs, and then runs, it becomes worth it!)
Old 08-29-2013, 04:04 PM
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If the guys who design these engines actually used them they would know a rear carb, rear exhaust is what we want and the one configuration that will fit the majority of models.
Only the really short cowl types, fokkers, sopwiths etc that might have a problem, but even then the carb can be made to go through the firewall.

I personally would'nt buy another side carb petrol, no model I can think of I want to build, that a rear carb would'nt be the best option.

Same with exhaust how many aircraft want them to come out the side, rear bottom is 95% the best option.
Old 08-29-2013, 04:34 PM
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Here's an inexpensive, no name option if looking for a smaller engine w/side carb..... It sports a Walbro carb and Rcexl ign. to boot!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...on_1_45PS.html
Old 08-29-2013, 05:36 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
Here's an inexpensive, no name option if looking for a smaller engine w/side carb..... It sports a Walbro carb and Rcexl ign. to boot!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...on_1_45PS.html
I saw that one before. It is an option, but I think a 20cc that is a bit smaller would be what I need for that plane. But maybe you guys can tell me, it is an old Midwest Stearman, heavy with a short round cowl.
Old 08-29-2013, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Xairflyer View Post
If the guys who design these engines actually used them they would know a rear carb, rear exhaust is what we want and the one configuration that will fit the majority of models.
Only the really short cowl types, fokkers, sopwiths etc that might have a problem, but even then the carb can be made to go through the firewall.

I personally would'nt buy another side carb petrol, no model I can think of I want to build, that a rear carb would'nt be the best option.

Same with exhaust how many aircraft want them to come out the side, rear bottom is 95% the best option.
They should just include a wrap-around pitts muffler with this engine as standard,,,,,,,,,,similar to what Evolution is doing with their 20 and 33cc gassers.
Old 08-29-2013, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by hsukaria View Post
I saw that one before. It is an option, but I think a 20cc that is a bit smaller would be what I need for that plane. But maybe you guys can tell me, it is an old Midwest Stearman, heavy with a short round cowl.
I have the Great Planes steerman with a G26, needed the wt. If its anywhere near the same size you cant go wrong.
Old 08-30-2013, 05:34 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by j301 View Post
I have the Great Planes steerman with a G26, needed the wt. If its anywhere near the same size you cant go wrong.
Thanks, I'll check it out. It might be a while before I re-build the plane. So, maybe by then AGM would have an alternative for me to consider.
Old 08-30-2013, 06:39 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Xairflyer View Post
If the guys who design these engines actually used them they would know a rear carb, rear exhaust is what we want and the one configuration that will fit the majority of models.
Only the really short cowl types, fokkers, sopwiths etc that might have a problem, but even then the carb can be made to go through the firewall.

I personally would'nt buy another side carb petrol, no model I can think of I want to build, that a rear carb would'nt be the best option.

Same with exhaust how many aircraft want them to come out the side, rear bottom is 95% the best option.
You are spot on here. The smaller the "footprint" of the engine, the easier it is to get to fit. T

The one I wish also, would be any new twins that come out have angled plugs. Many of the later offerings are a good size, but the plug caps will hang out of most cowls.

One issue that seems to have arisen with the rear carb, rear exhaust, is exhaust heat so close to the carb. (DLE 55R) Not sure how true the issue is, but it would not seem to be an insurmountable issue. By baffling, etc. I am sure it could be overcome.
Old 08-30-2013, 06:48 AM
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I checked my static timing and it is 33deg, I ran it again last night and getting 8010rpm on a menz 18x8 as only new still running it a bit rich
Old 08-30-2013, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Xairflyer View Post
I checked my static timing and it is 33deg, I ran it again last night and getting 8010rpm on a menz 18x8 as only new still running it a bit rich
The DLE 30 is timed at around 45 deg.b.t.c., I wonder just how close to the dle this motor is, and if the timing should be the same?
As for the rear carb, I think manufactures should spend some time looking into a front carb/rear exhaust. That would seem to cure fit and heat, and I agree, all this "junk" hanging out the side really limits the builder to round-cowl birds. Not as big a problem for warbird guys (like me), but there were a lot of v12 air frames out there that are "ruined" by a carb and muffler sticking out the side. (p39-tho mid mount-, spit, 109, p51, etc.)
Old 08-30-2013, 01:10 PM
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Just received my Pitts muffler from Mile High RC, looks decent and a good price, now I can get going on the brake in and see what's up with this motor.
Old 09-01-2013, 09:01 AM
  #87  
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DLE has their 20cc rear carb and rear exhaust ready, we will be ordering a shipment from DLE next week.
Thanks
Tom
Valley View RC
www.valleyviewrc.com
Old 09-01-2013, 09:08 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by denney47 View Post
DLE has their 20cc rear carb and rear exhaust ready, we will be ordering a shipment from DLE next week.
Thanks
Tom
Valley View RC
www.valleyviewrc.com
If I had have know sooner would have bought one as rear exhaust suits much better.
Old 09-01-2013, 09:11 PM
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Got mine mounted on my test stand, used stock muffler for break in, non-synth oil, etc. This motor once mounted looks a lot like the dle 30 in every way.... Except of course for the starting and running part. Took for ever to get the carb to prime, still isn't drawing fuel well. After about a thousand carpal tunnel inducing flips, then a bout with my starter, I was able to get it to turn its head and cough- once. Yup, sure looks good sitting there all stoic, refusing to budge. If the sarcasm doesn't relate my initial experience, suffice to say I'm not all warm and fuzzy so far. I will have to likely open the carb, play with the low end some more, check the timing and ignition, and who knows what else. More to come.
Old 09-02-2013, 02:47 AM
  #90  
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Mine had no problem priming and started very easy, but I stripped the carb before hand, if I get an engine with no sealing cap on the fuel inlet pipe I always assume some dirt or bits of packaging has got in so it is stripped and blew out with the airline.

Set your low at 1 1/8 turns and high at 1 1/2

Last edited by Xairflyer; 09-02-2013 at 02:55 AM.
Old 09-02-2013, 07:16 AM
  #91  
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I can see where 95% of the users will want a rear carb/rear exhaust. But the plane I am restoring falls under the 5% group, it needs side carb/side exhaust.
Old 09-02-2013, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by denney47 View Post
DLE has their 20cc rear carb and rear exhaust ready, we will be ordering a shipment from DLE next week.
Thanks
Tom
Valley View RC
www.valleyviewrc.com
This is very good news, and will make a lot of people happy!
Old 09-02-2013, 08:00 AM
  #93  
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As long as they hold the price in line.....
Old 09-03-2013, 07:56 PM
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I was able to check the timing, was dead on at 46 deg btc, recharged the battery, a 2000mah nimh just to make sure, and reset the needles to factory again. There is spark, and I was able to get the motor to pop (almost run) under choke but only with the low needle 2 or more turns out. This is telling me there is an issue with the low speed side of the carb, going to have to pull it and see whats up. Just hope the gaskets and diaphragms don't tear apart as I don't want to have to order yet another carb kit.
Old 09-04-2013, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by j301 View Post
I was able to check the timing, was dead on at 46 deg btc, recharged the battery, a 2000mah nimh just to make sure, and reset the needles to factory again. There is spark, and I was able to get the motor to pop (almost run) under choke but only with the low needle 2 or more turns out. This is telling me there is an issue with the low speed side of the carb, going to have to pull it and see whats up. Just hope the gaskets and diaphragms don't tear apart as I don't want to have to order yet another carb kit.
Are you saying that you are having trouble starting the new AGM30 and now have to remove the carb to troubleshoot? That's not a good sign.
Old 09-04-2013, 04:34 AM
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46 degrees? Is that a typo? Base timing should be set somewhere around 26 or 28 BTDC if I recall correctly.
Old 09-04-2013, 05:02 AM
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I think the 45/30deg thing is the same as two same engines cant be that different, depends on how guys measure it and rotation used as you can get a spark at both ends of the pickup when turning it by hand and just watching the spark.
Correct setting is as magnet leaves the pickup in direction of prop rotation.

It is difficult to get an accurate test with just watching spark, best method is with the rcexl buzzer/led fitted to the pickup.
Old 09-04-2013, 06:44 AM
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http://www.rccdi.com/news/conversion/5.html ENGINES TDC Adjustment from RCEXL
Old 09-04-2013, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by hsukaria View Post
Are you saying that you are having trouble starting the new AGM30 and now have to remove the carb to troubleshoot? That's not a good sign.
Yes, it wont start, not by hand or starter. Only coughed a couple of times on choke. I will be pulling the carb tonight to clean it out, hoping that fixes it.
Old 09-04-2013, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by irocbsa View Post
46 degrees? Is that a typo? Base timing should be set somewhere around 26 or 28 BTDC if I recall correctly.
Page 13 from the DLE 30 manual (since the "pamphlet" the AMG comes with has little more then "this is an engine" in it)
"For most applications mount the sensor with the mounting screwscentered in the slot. The ignition timing is preset on the DLE-30 at 46
before Top Dead Center (TDC). The ignition timing can be advanced
or retarded slightly by loosening the (2) ignition sensor phillips
head screws and sliding the sensor to the full extent clockwise
(47 advancing the ignition) or counter clockwise (45 retarding
the ignition). Be sure to retighten the phillips head screws after
adjusting the ignition timing."
I check timing with the Rcexl unit, not the spark plug as well.
I agree, it seems odd, but I also have a 52cc that I thought was wrong, retarded the timing to 30 deg and it wouldn't run, so I had to put it back to the factory 45 deg.

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