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More DLE 20 Questions

Old 08-23-2013, 10:35 AM
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gagallagher04401
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Default More DLE 20 Questions

Hi all couple quick questions.

I have a DLE 20 in my GP Revolver 70 Awesome plane. Couple dumb questions.

1. Slight Burble at WOT ........ little rich on my high speed needle?

2. Easy way to tell if I am overheating my engine ( to lean)

Plane fly's good, has good transition, Engine is new getting close to having run a gallon of fuel through it.

Would love to get my idle to drop off a little sooner.

Also wish the throttle was more linear/smooth, I use a DX7, no throttle curve for Acro.

Thanks
George
Old 08-23-2013, 12:28 PM
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av8tor1977
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Usually when an engine is slow to drop to idle, it is because the idle and/or top end mixture is too lean. However, the DLE 20 has a funky advance setup in the electronic ignition that can also cause the problem. Richen up your low end a bit and see if it helps. If not, the only other remedy would be to buy another ignition module for say, a DLE 50, and install it.

If the engine is burbling at full throttle in flight, it is either running a bit rich, or the prop load is too light. Try leaning it out 1/8 turn on the high speed mixture.

Here is a diagram of how to set up your throttle linkage to get much more linear response without a throttle curve in the radio: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...rmation-2.html (Scroll to the bottom of post 34)

AV8TOR
Old 08-23-2013, 12:45 PM
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ahicks
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I have the same engine/plane. Love it! My current gas "go to" plane. Widest speed envelope of any plane I've ever flown. From floating along barely flying, to 100+ mph.

Burble - could be rich, but obviously you're close. Have you tried opening you plug gap to .024-.025? That move has straightened MANY right out - without screwing with your adjustment

Regarding lean HS. If it's lean, it's going to dead stick on you, especially on up lines. Might also want to do that on take off if not warmed real well first.

Regarding lean LS, it's going to be a headache. Even when tuned to eliminate throttle up lag, they can be a pain to start, and you have the high idle thing with the delay prior to coming down to to expected idle speed. Depending on which ign. module you're using, that delay might have something to do with your idle being set a little high as well? If the "hang" is making you crazy (as it would me) confirm your idle speed is as low as possible, and from there richen the low speed as necessary to reduce/eliminate the problem.

That said, I've found the DLE 20 starts and runs best, with little fuss, day in and day out, when kept a little on the rich side (especially on the LS). Keeping it in "perfect" tune requires MUCH more dinking around and gains you very little at best as far as performance is concerned.

MUCH has been written regarding gassers and linear throttle response. If you haven't seen the mechanical set up to accomplish this, holler and I'll be happy to post it again. Otherwise, are you able to run the transmitter in "heli" mode, and dial out the unwanted ail. and elev. mixing?

-Al

Edit: If your engine is tuned for 80+ f. weather, as the weather cools later in the season, you WILL be running lean if you don't reset (richen) your carb to accommodate that cooler denser air! No IF to it!

Last edited by ahicks; 08-23-2013 at 12:54 PM.
Old 08-23-2013, 12:53 PM
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gagallagher04401
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I am running a APC 16x8 plastic prop. Just noticed the burbling this last time out. Like it has never done it before at WOT.
Old 08-23-2013, 01:12 PM
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gagallagher04401
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What will opening the plug gap do for me?

I am running the stock DLE 20 ignition.
I will be honest the diagram I have seen about setting up your linkage, I do not really understand fully, and it would take a overhaul of my setup to try to set mine up that way.

Can you fly a plane in heli mode?, would rather not.

I am on the outer hole of my servo, might try just moving it closer to the center of the servo and see if that helps at all.

Thanks
George
Old 08-23-2013, 01:31 PM
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ahicks
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Opening the gap seems to help the engine run cleaner when rich. Somebody much smarter than I am figured that out a couple years ago. There's no downside, it's free, so it's likely worth it to try it?

Regarding throttle curve vs. mechanical method to achieve a more linear throttle, suggest you get help locally or start asking questions? A LOT of us here had to learn this the first time around as well? Be patient here and you'll get it! You'll only have to struggle through it the first time. After that you'll have it.

I have the 7 channel version of your radio, and I'm sure I could walk you through using heli mode if you had one like it. Maybe somebody with a 6 channel could help here? -Al
Old 08-23-2013, 01:40 PM
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Will try the gap.
I also just moved the linkage in to the closest hole on the servo arm. ( arm has 3 holes) I am on the inner most one now. Feels and looks better but have not started the plane yet to verify.
I am using a dx7 radio.

Thanks
george
Old 08-23-2013, 04:54 PM
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ahicks
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Crap, I don't know where I got the 6 from. Probably the same place I got the OFD?

Is this a DX7s? Will it program like one? Not familiar with these Spectrum radios at all, but I do have this one. I keep it so I have something that will bind to an MCPX heli I like to beat on regularly.

If your radio programs like mine, just set up a new model (that way you don't screw up the setting you already have, allowing you to return to it if necessary), and make it a heli. While you are in that section of setup, set the swash plate type to single servo (not 2, 3, or 4!). Then save/exit.

When you turn the radio back on and select this new model heli, you will now have the throttle curve you're looking for, and your ail., elev. and rudder will be unaffected. They'll set up exactly as they would if it were a plane.

I set a curve up in the throttle that looked OK but it's definitely not tested? Try 0>12>24>48>100

That curve could leave you with the opposite problem you have now, with the stick moving too far to get much of a power change in the first part of it's movement. If that's the case, maybe try 0>20>35>60>100 ?

If you're using an opti switch on an aux channel, it may require some messing around to get that going again? You could set it up as a gyro, and assign a switch to it? Just be aware that as a heli, one of the channels is going to think it's collective pitch, which of course you aren't going to use. You probably already know you can go to "monitor" and see what's happening on each of your channels to help figure stuff like this out....

Best of luck, -Al
Old 08-23-2013, 05:17 PM
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fly210sv
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I have been running a Dle 20 for 2 seasons now. I had the burbling. Switched to a prop with more pitch and started using Sthil Ultra oil. No burble and runs great. Flying it on a Pulse 125.
Old 08-23-2013, 05:33 PM
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gagallagher04401
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Well I changed the gap a little, also since I moved the linkage into the inner hole it has helped a lot, (seems that way on the bench) I seem to have great transition through out RPM range. At WOT I am around 8300-8400 rpm.
Old 08-24-2013, 06:53 AM
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I have a DLE20 on a .90 Size Seagull Harrier, great combo. However I have a hell of a curve programed into my Hitec Arrora 9 radio. Its nearly flat until 1/2 stick. You my be able to simulate a throttle curve if your radio has exponential on the throttle channel.
Old 08-24-2013, 10:04 AM
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does anyone have a idea why i get almost no spark when i pull the plug cap and try for a spark it is a 20cc zenoah engine thanks allen

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