Ixtrim

1 1/8 is not too rich. No worries

the oil coming out of the crankcase gets less from flight to flight. Most of that is the grease that Michael uses during the build process.

Wessa

hi all dose anyone know who the model builder for RC Europe is apparently he lives in Germany because ive been waiting for my Pitts Challenger from RC Europe for 14 months now and some chap was supposed to be putting it together for me ive had the 310 Kolm for a while and am a little concerned about the aircraft. cheers

Cpig

What is the bolt size and hole pattern / diameter for Kolm 155 v4?
Thanks

Ixtrim

its TK29 and M5 screws !

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Tom,

Email sent!

Chris

ripper-911

Hello all. Where would someone in Canada purchase a Kolm EZ 77?

Thank you in advance.

rdefrei2

My Feedback: (6)

No,
I did get the manual but I wish I would have some installations templates.
I'm also looking who has stand-offs for the IL230 LE here in the US.
In order to break in the engine which propeller would you recommend?

Thanks

Ixtrim

areopanda can get you some. But I think you can use any other standoffs which are in the lengh you need.

what prop do you want ? 2 blade or 4 blade ?
important is to keep the Rpm’s low on ground. Engine revs up a lot !

tom

rdefrei2

My Feedback: (6)

I'm looking to use a 4 Blade prop on the Kolm IL230 LE. (Any advice?)
Now I'm trying to get the muffler + pressure tank system + Metal parts only from the Mounting kit CARF Mustang for IL230-3 V4.
What's better to use with this engine? tank pressure system or Fuelpump?

I have contacted Ploberger and they stated they could sell me just the Metal part as I asked but they told me to contact Aeropanda which I did but didn't get any email reply yet.
I also contacted Carf as they do have the muffler and Mounting Kit on their page but received a call back from them stating that they do not have any interested in selling just the parts or muffler separately due to small profit margin. (Bummer)
Carf should not post those items as accessories if they don't want to sell it.

I have paid someone to make a mock-up or the IL230 LE in 3D (Solidworks) so I will try to 3D print the engine in order to make the alignment/adjustment easy.

Thanks.

Ixtrim

I talk to Danny from aeropanda.
he will get you all needed parts for sure.

i prefer pressure tank system.
light weight and never fails.

4 Blade:
Ramoser or Fiala

Joe1199

I have a CARF Mustang with Kolm 150 V4, I cannot make up my mind on which prop to use

I would like to use a 28x14 Biela 4 blade mainly for the look. Would a 30x14 or similar 2 blade be a more sensible option?

i do not want to sacrifice performance over static looks to much!

thanks

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

I have the older Kolm 150 in mine and I’m using a VarioProp 26.6 inch 4 blade adjustable prop. This was recommended by VarioProp. Set to 4600rpm on the ground.

Ixtrim

can’t really tell a lot about biela. Tried 2 times and wasn’t happy with the outcome.

for sure the Fiala are performing really good. 2 blade would be 30/16 for this engine. So maybe the 30/14 biela will fit. Fiala has always to be a size bigger compared to other brands.
maybe 28/14 4 blade Biala would fit !

Important is to take an eye on the rpm. About 4600 on ground is max.

Joe1199

Thanks, sounds good, I will be using rpm telemetry to keep an eye on rpm’s

I have ordered a couple of Fiala 30x16 👍🏻

Ixtrim

perfect. Important is the rpm in flight. Let me know how much you did.
we recommend to stay below 6300 Rpm.
In future the ignition will cut at 6200. One more safety feature we invented.

Tom

Corsair102

My Feedback: (46)

I am just now running my 77 le on a 1/3 scale SE5a
Im not getting a smooth idle it seams to be loading up
I have a 24x12 XOAR prop getting 5400 rmp on the ground
Is this too much RPM to i need a bigger prop

Ixtrim

the single zylinder can handle this rpm´s, no worries.
if you need more airspeed, just use more pitch on the prop.

Tom

Joe1199

hello,

I was wandering if anyone could share their radio setup with the Emcotec powerful rx fuel pump?

is the pressure fixed as the manual says (between 30-60%) with an on/off switch?
or is the pressure linear mixed to the throttle position? (0-100%)

I guess due to the fuel return to the tank from the pump fixed pressure is possible just wandering what others have done

engine is 150IL 3 cyl

thanks

Joe

Canadian Man

My Feedback: (1)

OH BABY!!!!

Dougt13399

Hello everyone! I just set up and started my Kolm 150IL on the bench, some minor things to figure such as my BEC doesn't power the ignition as expected but bypassed it for now. The digital tach I have plugged into the RPM plug from the ignition box just reads voltage but not RPM....all my plans went south ignition wise but aside from that, the engine runs great, slightly rich but I have an electric fuel pump set to a dial so I can hopefully find its happy settings and set it to a switch or linear with the throttle, however my main concern is with the heads facing up and the carbs mounted the way they are (intakes facing down) there's a steady fast drip of fuel, especially while idling and more from one (the center cylinder) than the other two. Needles were turned in, noted, and turned back out to factory, seem to be set to what ive read is correct. I can turn down the fuel pump until it leans out though, with barely enough fuel to keep it running and it still has a drip. Did I over pressurize the carbs with fuel possibly and blow a diaphragm or is this normal until I invert the motor in the model? Lean it the needles out after its well broken in? Doesn't seem right that I'd have a puddle in my cowl, had it been mounted in a model so any advice or suggestions on what I can do? I'm all ears! Thank you!!!

Ixtrim

lots of infos - so here we go

-set the pump to about 40%. engine runs solid with a minimum pump pressure
- the factory setting is a solid start, but for sure too rich un both needles. you will end up around L:1 and H 1 1/8.. something like that.

if one carb is dripping fuel, maybe one of the membrane doen´t seal correct. but start first with adjustments. of its not seal it will also leak without running the engine itselfe.

your tach shows voltage? intresting :-) - there is one lead marked with RPM. this is where the tach goes.

what prop are you using ? for flying the minimum size of fiala 2 blade is 30/16. otherwise the rpm will be too high

Tom

Dougt13399

Thank you Tom! Already a big help! I was having a mental battle about how to regulate fuel pressure vs. needle adjustment for the mixture, more pressure with needles closed more or less pressure and leaving needles farther out. I needed a constant and that will now be about 40% at the fuel pump. It DOES drip with the engine off so I'll start with the fuel pump setting at 40% and lean as needed to remain a tad rich throughout RPM range. Hoping this slows or stops the drip and eventually the engine will be mounted inverted so I won't have puddles in the cowl, just didn't want to miss a huge red flag getting it mounted having a known carb rebuild needed and having to take it all back out!! I'll keep you posted!

The Prop is a 28X18 Biela 4 Blade and it sounds to me like RPM is well within its limit, especially with it running rich, but I'd like this tachometer to do its sole job and tell me lol. If there's a trusted brand or type I'll just replace it if that's what it takes, nice to have voltage AND RPM but worst case I can always do it the old fashioned way with a handheld tach. This device seemed plug and play until it wasn't. Wish I could post photos of the tach, but URLs are not allowed until I've got 10 posts under my belt I'm seeing now. It's a single three wire lead (Brown,Red,Orange wires) connected to the "RPM" connector from the ignition, (brown to black, red to red, and orange to white, at the RPM connector). "RC (star symbol) XL" written on the lower left face...digital readout is as follows... "U" on the left side of the readout and voltage "5.9"for example on the right side....directions say this means it is not reading any RPM, unit is about the size of my thumb, hope this helps

The BEC was intended to be a switch, controlled by the TX/RX to kill ignition and regulate the voltage into the ignition. Using it I do get power to the digital tach (voltage display and the "U" (through the ignition via the "RPM" wire) so the BEC sends (some) power to the ignition but I get no spark, bypassing and just running a dedicated battery to the battery lead it fires right up and no change in the readout on the tach.

Long story short if there is a tried and true way to kill ignition for safety and for end of flight purposes via the TX/RX I'll take your method over my failed attempt, and if there's a tried and true, supported, onboard tach you know of as well I'll be clicking the order button there as well. Assuming I just missed something in all my research on these parts but correct me if you can! Love to keep this motor happy and healthy because wow...what a work of art!

Regards,
Doug

Ixtrim

Ok -

So go on with your tests and let me know if i can do something.
also you can contact AeroPanda in case you need something.

BR
Tom

Ixtrim

My new project for the upcoming building-season :-)

Giant BF109 with IL310-4