dle 35 break in rpm
04-14-2018, 08:46 AM
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dle 35 break in rpm
I have a new DLE 35 gas engine and it came with very little information on the break in proceedure. With nitro it is very straight forward, but gas, I assume, is different. First, at what rpm should I limit the rmps, should I vary the rpm's and how many tanks of gas should I run through it before the first flight? I am new to gas engines and want to break it in properly. Also, it calls for Gasoline with an octane rating of 87 would higher octane rating be better for the life of the engine? I have searched the web looking for answers but have found nothing with regaurds to my questions. Sure hope you can help.
04-14-2018, 09:29 AM
#2
My Feedback: (19)
There are many opinions on break in and here's mine based on both experience and what is fairly common practice these days. First 87 octane is plenty for your engine. Considering the engine's fairly low compression it will gain nothing by using higher octane. On the other hand, you won't loose anything by going to a bit higher octane. I prefer non ethanol fuels as they store better but run whatever you have available. I usually use 92 - 93 octane recreation fuel available at marinas and some gas stations depending on your area. Use a premium synthetic oil from day one and Red Line racing oil is very popular. This is the oil recommended by DA so that should be a good endorsement. Mix ratios from 30:1 to 40:1 are common but I use 32:1 as that is exactly 4oz of oil per gallon of gas. Easy to remember and I see no advantage to using less oil except maybe a bit of cost.
Most engines don't require a long ground break in period and many users feel that long runs on the ground are actually harmful as the engine dosn't get adequate cooling. I run my engines just long enough on the ground to get the needle valves set than fly the engines for the remainder of the break in process. This process may take 1/4 tank of fuel or so on the ground. Again, avoid long periods of running on the ground unless you can provide adequate cooling.
When you feel the engine is running dependably I just go fly it. Once in the air, there really isn't an RPM limit as such. Use the prop size you plan to fly with long term. Avoid long periods of full throttle but don't be afraid to push the stick forward from time to time for short bursts. Many users feel engines break in the best if they go through periods of heat cycling. This can be accomplished by flying large loops from time to time where you're at full throttle on the uplines then pull back to idle coming down. Of course any maneuver that has periods for climbs and descents will do the same as a loop. Avoid any kind of low and slow 3D flight during the first gallon of fuel or so. You may notice the needle valves changing a bit as the engine gets additional run time. Adjust as needed and this should stabilize as the engine gets fully broken in.
Probably the most important consideration is cooling airflow. Make sure there is plenty of airlfow to the cylinder fins and preferably ducted or baffled so the air has to flow through the fins and not just around them. This is especially important on the 35RA as the rear mounted muffler can block some of the airflow.
Good luck and enjoy the new engine.
Most engines don't require a long ground break in period and many users feel that long runs on the ground are actually harmful as the engine dosn't get adequate cooling. I run my engines just long enough on the ground to get the needle valves set than fly the engines for the remainder of the break in process. This process may take 1/4 tank of fuel or so on the ground. Again, avoid long periods of running on the ground unless you can provide adequate cooling.
When you feel the engine is running dependably I just go fly it. Once in the air, there really isn't an RPM limit as such. Use the prop size you plan to fly with long term. Avoid long periods of full throttle but don't be afraid to push the stick forward from time to time for short bursts. Many users feel engines break in the best if they go through periods of heat cycling. This can be accomplished by flying large loops from time to time where you're at full throttle on the uplines then pull back to idle coming down. Of course any maneuver that has periods for climbs and descents will do the same as a loop. Avoid any kind of low and slow 3D flight during the first gallon of fuel or so. You may notice the needle valves changing a bit as the engine gets additional run time. Adjust as needed and this should stabilize as the engine gets fully broken in.
Probably the most important consideration is cooling airflow. Make sure there is plenty of airlfow to the cylinder fins and preferably ducted or baffled so the air has to flow through the fins and not just around them. This is especially important on the 35RA as the rear mounted muffler can block some of the airflow.
Good luck and enjoy the new engine.
Last edited by Truckracer; 04-14-2018 at 09:36 AM.
04-14-2018, 10:22 AM
#3
My Feedback: (2)
X2 on what Truck racer said.
I would only add that if you have 2 stroke lawn equipment, you're generally safe treating your new DLE the same way. You can treat it like a Ferrari engine if you like, but it will live a long happy life if treated just like a leaf blower.....
Fly it as soon as you're comfortable with it after getting getting to know it a bit, and are confident in it's tune.
There is a learning curve in dealing with gas, so if you're a club member, having somebody already familiar with gas have a look at it prior to your maiden not a bad idea.
I would only add that if you have 2 stroke lawn equipment, you're generally safe treating your new DLE the same way. You can treat it like a Ferrari engine if you like, but it will live a long happy life if treated just like a leaf blower.....
Fly it as soon as you're comfortable with it after getting getting to know it a bit, and are confident in it's tune.
There is a learning curve in dealing with gas, so if you're a club member, having somebody already familiar with gas have a look at it prior to your maiden not a bad idea.
04-21-2018, 08:36 AM
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Did your DLE 35 come with tapered muffler bolts and if so were there washers to go with it? I was just wondering because mine did not come with washers and was just wondering how they would work with a taper on the bolts.
