NGH 9cc PRO
05-19-2020, 01:48 PM
#1
Thread Starter
NGH 9cc PRO
Trying to get somewhere with this NGH 9cc PRO engine. Has a pump-type feed from the crankcase to the carb. Installed in 40 size Twister and could not get to run right. Finally it seems that the timing was off because the screws holding the timing pickup loosened, and I could not get it to transition. Bought a second motor, installed it and scared to mess with the needles. Starts and runs sort of OK, (I'm an old glow guy). Ran a couple of ounces of 30% ethanol free 90 octane fuel through. Lots of black stuff out of the exhaust - is that typical?
Idle throttle seems to be quite open - maybe half way. Is that typical? Running an 11 x 5 prop - maybe too light? All help will be appreciated.
Idle throttle seems to be quite open - maybe half way. Is that typical? Running an 11 x 5 prop - maybe too light? All help will be appreciated.
05-27-2020, 04:32 AM
#3
My Feedback: (2)
Typical for a new gasser to blow a lot of the black crap. It's partly the engine seating in, and partly because the engine must be run so rich to keep it cooled down while breaking in.
And yes, they do idle with the carb open a LOT more than what the glow engines run. It's because they use so little fuel, and nobody has really come up with a good way to meter that tiny amount.
And yes, they do idle with the carb open a LOT more than what the glow engines run. It's because they use so little fuel, and nobody has really come up with a good way to meter that tiny amount.
05-27-2020, 07:03 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Thanks for the quick reply
Still not a happy gasser person - got it running - maybe ran it for 20 minutes total.
Got the plane in the air but screwed the landing as it would not transition from idle to running - and stalled - ripping out the landing gear.
Probably need a lot more time on teh stand???
Still not a happy gasser person - got it running - maybe ran it for 20 minutes total.
Got the plane in the air but screwed the landing as it would not transition from idle to running - and stalled - ripping out the landing gear.
Probably need a lot more time on teh stand???
05-28-2020, 03:33 AM
#6
My Feedback: (2)
Use whatever time you need to assure it's running right, and you're familiar with it, whether mounted on the plane or a test stand.
Just be prepared for the idea that whatever you end up with on your ground adjustments will need to be tweaked a little once you get it in the air.
Know also that the baby gasser's are much tougher to get right than the 20cc and up motors. The bigger ones are MUCH friendlier!
Just be prepared for the idea that whatever you end up with on your ground adjustments will need to be tweaked a little once you get it in the air.
Know also that the baby gasser's are much tougher to get right than the 20cc and up motors. The bigger ones are MUCH friendlier!
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4dogspete (05-28-2020)
06-03-2020, 08:14 AM
#7
I have had this engine on an Uproar V2 for some time now. Getting to run right took some time and some learning, but after that, it has been a very reliable and trouble free engine. Like all ringed engines, it gets better with time. When properly tuned, it only needs minor adustments to the HSN may be twice a year, when the weather changes.
1) Timing is very important. If the engine has little power at WOT, you may have a timing issue. Start with the engine as far retarded as possible (pick up as far counterclockwise as possible) and start slowly advancing until you find the best spot. Do not advance too much or it will not idle properly.
2) Oil mix at least 20:1. Some people use higher ratios. Oil, I use Stihl Ultra (silver bottle). Yes, it is more expensive than no-brand oils, but this engine uses so little oil
(and gas), especially compared to the cost of glow that you'll be happy to shell a few more bucks for oil.
3) The HSN and LSN work in tandem. If you lean out the top end, you may have to richen the low end and viceversa. Also, keep in mind that gas is different from glow when it comes to leaning out. A glow will die pretty soon after reaching optimal mixture. A gas will keep running, but with reduced power. My suggestion when tuning is always start from a rich setting. Keep unscrewing the HSN until you are sure it is rich (smoke,...), then start leaning out.
4) I would recommend a break in period on the bench. You will get to know your engine this way and you're not putting your aiframe at risk. Run it for at least one hour on the bench. Start rich, and follow the procedure outlined on the manual.
PM me if you need more info.
1) Timing is very important. If the engine has little power at WOT, you may have a timing issue. Start with the engine as far retarded as possible (pick up as far counterclockwise as possible) and start slowly advancing until you find the best spot. Do not advance too much or it will not idle properly.
2) Oil mix at least 20:1. Some people use higher ratios. Oil, I use Stihl Ultra (silver bottle). Yes, it is more expensive than no-brand oils, but this engine uses so little oil
(and gas), especially compared to the cost of glow that you'll be happy to shell a few more bucks for oil.
3) The HSN and LSN work in tandem. If you lean out the top end, you may have to richen the low end and viceversa. Also, keep in mind that gas is different from glow when it comes to leaning out. A glow will die pretty soon after reaching optimal mixture. A gas will keep running, but with reduced power. My suggestion when tuning is always start from a rich setting. Keep unscrewing the HSN until you are sure it is rich (smoke,...), then start leaning out.
4) I would recommend a break in period on the bench. You will get to know your engine this way and you're not putting your aiframe at risk. Run it for at least one hour on the bench. Start rich, and follow the procedure outlined on the manual.
PM me if you need more info.
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ahicks (06-06-2020)
