UMS Gas Radial Engine Enthusiasts Rabbit Hole
#101

Hi there; If you recall a while back I asked about Minnie Motors. I would like to say, I finally received the UMS 50-7 cyl. I am getting ready to run it and they say use two stroke oil. I have new oil, it is Stihl chainsaw two stroke oil, mix . UMS recommends 32-1 to break. Question, what do you fellas think of using Stihl oil will it be good on the UMS?. I also have a couple jugs of Evolution Oil, being Evolution that should be good as well. Your thoughts and what oil do you fellas use on UMS Radials.. Thank you.
I pull lifters and lube both cam races regardless. As well as both end pushrod receipts. Every use every time....
Aaron-
#102

Join Date: Nov 2004
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Anybody have experience with Evolution Oil? UMS is supposed to previously be an Evolution radial and this oil is for those engines, it must be ok for UMS I would think. Anybody have bad experiences with this oil?..I have two quarts of it..
#103

My Feedback: (3)

I ran two quarts before they stopped selling it and had no problems.
I ran Redline synthetic for about 6 gallons of fuel after that in my FG-21 and my Saito radials and noticed the exhaust ports were caking up with super hard residue that was building up quite a bit.
I recently switched to Klotz Techniplate hoping for less of the caking in the exhaust ports. I'm also running Klotz in the UMS engine (gallon of gas so far).
#104

My Feedback: (2)

With respect to the oil question on radial engines, I have been running Amsoil Dominator in my 2 Moki 250's at 45/1 and Valach 210 at 32/1. In addition, I use it in the Saito FG90R3 at 25/1. It keeps the piston clean and also has excellent blow-by lubrication which is needed in the Saito. I also treat the fuel to Seafoam fuel additive at 2 oz per gallon. No scorching, burning, or broken cranks in any of my engines - ever.
#105

With respect to the oil question on radial engines, I have been running Amsoil Dominator in my 2 Moki 250's at 45/1 and Valach 210 at 32/1. In addition, I use it in the Saito FG90R3 at 25/1. It keeps the piston clean and also has excellent blow-by lubrication which is needed in the Saito. I also treat the fuel to Seafoam fuel additive at 2 oz per gallon. No scorching, burning, or broken cranks in any of my engines - ever.
Wondering if the seafoam is having a effect on the product . I have used SF with Klotz in methanol and gas, but not the Dominator as of yet. I broke my UMS 125 in 32:1 then 40:1 the residue seems the same. I haven't pulled plugs for inspection yet. It runs great and starts really easy, no evident fouling....
Runs really cool too 140-150 uncowled.
Last edited by Hyjinx; 09-06-2022 at 04:03 PM.
#106

My Feedback: (2)

Do you agree the exhaust residue is black and "dirty" with the Amsoil Jaketab? It cleans off easy with tub o towels, but seems really carbon black and slippery too. Very different than Klotz Gas Burner. I am not complaining, just curious. Dr G raves about the product Says it is the best for the internals long term, he has serviced more of these motors than I will ever see.
Wondering if the seafoam is having a effect on the product . I have used SF with Klotz in methanol and gas, but not the Dominator as of yet. I broke my UMS 125 in 32:1 then 40:1 the residue seems the same. I haven't pulled plugs for inspection yet. It runs great and starts really easy, no evident fouling....
Runs really cool too 140-150 uncowled.
Wondering if the seafoam is having a effect on the product . I have used SF with Klotz in methanol and gas, but not the Dominator as of yet. I broke my UMS 125 in 32:1 then 40:1 the residue seems the same. I haven't pulled plugs for inspection yet. It runs great and starts really easy, no evident fouling....
Runs really cool too 140-150 uncowled.
As you gather more running time on your engine, possibly the residue will decrease.
#107

There's probably a detergent factor that is different among oil brands . The more detergent the more black stuff you see removed from the engine ( a good thing) as it breaks in and from some carbon clearing in the exhaust. The detergent encapsulates the contaminants so they flow out with the expelled oil in the exhaust. Lesser detergents in the oil equates to less contaminants removed and a cleaner exhaust residue .
#108

There's probably a detergent factor that is different among oil brands . The more detergent the more black stuff you see removed from the engine ( a good thing) as it breaks in and from some carbon clearing in the exhaust. The detergent encapsulates the contaminants so they flow out with the expelled oil in the exhaust. Lesser detergents in the oil equates to less contaminants removed and a cleaner exhaust residue .
Makes perfect sense.
Aaron-
#109

Welcome MateI have a 125 five cyl on a Waco 60 ARF of similar dimensions. Fit in the cowl was a major decisive for me. The Waco ended up at 28 lbs auw and flys well with no weight on the tail. Your short nosed Flair will probably be happy without adding to the tail, but will probably fly well and be a good fit. Won't be lacking power for sure.... Low wing loaded bird anyway, weight in the tail if necessary won't be a deal breaker. Imho.
Aaron-
Aaron-
Finally got a nice short vid of the Phoenix rising with the UMS 125. Enjoy!
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NavyE6FE (04-15-2023)
#111
#112

My Feedback: (34)

Help!
I can't decide between UMS 180 or 210.
I'm building a coustom T28 at 114in wing span around 45 pounds I'm hoping.
My issue is I'm limited to a 28in max diameter prop, preferably a nice scale 3 blade.
It seems the UMS site say the 180cc runs a 28x10 2 blade while Belia prop sales says a Moki 180 is suited for there 28x16x3 blade which sounds like a huge load difference.
But all the UMS210 are in the 32in range. But saw a video of a guy rocking the same 28x16x3 blade as a brakein prop but upgraded to 32in next video.
On speck sheet the 180 and 210 look exactly the same except the 180 is .2in smaller which I would prefer but i don't know which is better choice?
Thought?
one guy told me to get 210 and just limited max rpm on Ground around 4500 with servo, but then would the motor still pick up rom in air?
Thanks
I can't decide between UMS 180 or 210.
I'm building a coustom T28 at 114in wing span around 45 pounds I'm hoping.
My issue is I'm limited to a 28in max diameter prop, preferably a nice scale 3 blade.
It seems the UMS site say the 180cc runs a 28x10 2 blade while Belia prop sales says a Moki 180 is suited for there 28x16x3 blade which sounds like a huge load difference.
But all the UMS210 are in the 32in range. But saw a video of a guy rocking the same 28x16x3 blade as a brakein prop but upgraded to 32in next video.
On speck sheet the 180 and 210 look exactly the same except the 180 is .2in smaller which I would prefer but i don't know which is better choice?
Thought?
one guy told me to get 210 and just limited max rpm on Ground around 4500 with servo, but then would the motor still pick up rom in air?
Thanks
#113

Help!
I can't decide between UMS 180 or 210.
I'm building a coustom T28 at 114in wing span around 45 pounds I'm hoping.
My issue is I'm limited to a 28in max diameter prop, preferably a nice scale 3 blade.
It seems the UMS site say the 180cc runs a 28x10 2 blade while Belia prop sales says a Moki 180 is suited for there 28x16x3 blade which sounds like a huge load difference.
But all the UMS210 are in the 32in range. But saw a video of a guy rocking the same 28x16x3 blade as a brakein prop but upgraded to 32in next video.
On speck sheet the 180 and 210 look exactly the same except the 180 is .2in smaller which I would prefer but i don't know which is better choice?
Thought?
A trusted full scale plane designer/builder who also builds r/c model assisted me when choosing an appropriate engine recently. I had posed a question on a few forums and was not satisfied with the answers I received. I was under the impression wing loading was a determinate factor. He lead me to believe thrust versus weight to lift was the critical metric. Simply stated If the thrust generated is greater than the weight of the airframe fully equipped. The plane will fly. Greater thrust than weight will fly with greater authority.
I saw we this played out with my Phoenix Waco. The total AUW is 28 lbs. The UMS 125 gas motor generates 32 lbs thrust.
The plane flys with authority at half throttle.
Here is video verificationhttps://youtu.be/res0qG5JelE
one guy told me to get 210 and just limited max rpm on Ground around 4500 with servo, but then would the motor still pick up rom in air?
Thanks
I can't decide between UMS 180 or 210.
I'm building a coustom T28 at 114in wing span around 45 pounds I'm hoping.
My issue is I'm limited to a 28in max diameter prop, preferably a nice scale 3 blade.
It seems the UMS site say the 180cc runs a 28x10 2 blade while Belia prop sales says a Moki 180 is suited for there 28x16x3 blade which sounds like a huge load difference.
But all the UMS210 are in the 32in range. But saw a video of a guy rocking the same 28x16x3 blade as a brakein prop but upgraded to 32in next video.
On speck sheet the 180 and 210 look exactly the same except the 180 is .2in smaller which I would prefer but i don't know which is better choice?
Thought?
A trusted full scale plane designer/builder who also builds r/c model assisted me when choosing an appropriate engine recently. I had posed a question on a few forums and was not satisfied with the answers I received. I was under the impression wing loading was a determinate factor. He lead me to believe thrust versus weight to lift was the critical metric. Simply stated If the thrust generated is greater than the weight of the airframe fully equipped. The plane will fly. Greater thrust than weight will fly with greater authority.
I saw we this played out with my Phoenix Waco. The total AUW is 28 lbs. The UMS 125 gas motor generates 32 lbs thrust.
The plane flys with authority at half throttle.
Here is video verificationhttps://youtu.be/res0qG5JelE
one guy told me to get 210 and just limited max rpm on Ground around 4500 with servo, but then would the motor still pick up rom in air?
Thanks
https://youtu.be/res0qG5JelE
#115
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So I got the 5-55 from Adrian 'cause it is cute and a nice small size. Got it mounted up and used a 22x10 prop. The engine can turn it to 4500rpm. True hp at this rpm is 1.5. Sure it can develop more hp at a higher rpm but then much smaller prop. The UMS glow style carb has the classic way over rich condition at mid throttle. The trick of adjusting the throttle mixture at half opening still was unsatisfactory. I made an adapter on the lath for the Saito 90r3 carb and that was the ticket! Beautiful ideal mixture at all throttle settings with immediate response. All cylinders at same temp. A 4oz tank runs the engine for 15 minutes with some part throttle settings. The question now is will the seals in the Saito carb hold up on gas? Reliable idle at 1000rpm
-Tom
-Tom
Heaps of black exhaust coming out too and plugs never look good (wet and black)
Could you elaborate on the fix please and any pictures would be great.
#116
#117

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Hyjinx, you say in your post you are building a custom T-28. Did you get the plans from a supplier or did you draw up your own plans?. I ask because I like the T28 and flew one of Dave Platts old kits for many years and I still have it. I would like to build another for 50 cc 7 cyl UMS that I recently bought.
Last edited by partshunt; 09-25-2022 at 11:55 PM.
#118

Hyjinx, you say in your post you are building a custom T-28. Did you get the plans from a supplier or did you draw up your own plans?. I ask because I like the T28 and flew one of Dave Platts old kits for many years and I still have it. I would like to build another for 50 cc 7 cyl UMS that I recently bought.
Hi that wasn't me. But please post your progress as you continue. Do you know how much thrust the 50 cc produces? I have a 24 lb Great Lakes I want to power with a gas radial. I have several glow radials but haven't mounted one on it. I am so happy with my UMS 125 I am thinking of selling some glow to buy another gas.
Aaron-
#119

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Hi Guys new to this thread but thought I'd share a photo of my Zeroli Stearman with a USM 90cc 7 cylinder in it, had about 15 flights on it now, flying great, only downside is the black deposits its chucks out the exhaust, is this common, hoping it will ease in time.
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NavyE6FE (04-06-2023)
#120

Hi Lozza,
That’s a great looking Stearman. Just about to order a UMS 7-90 for my Flair Stearman (nearing completion). I know the kit may be different from yours but can you recall whether you needed ballast weight to balance the weight of your engine at the front?
That’s a great looking Stearman. Just about to order a UMS 7-90 for my Flair Stearman (nearing completion). I know the kit may be different from yours but can you recall whether you needed ballast weight to balance the weight of your engine at the front?
#122

Welcome Lozza ! Beautiful stearman there. Love the PT - 17 . No cowl to hide the Radial lol. My 125 is sorta dirty running 40:1 Amsoil. But it wipes right off with "Tub o Towels. I get it at my local auto parts store. My brother n law gets it on Amazon. My Waco is mostly white. Cleans up really easy with them. Works on nitro goo also. Don't even carry Windex and paper towels anymore. Post video if you have it!
Aaron-
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NavyE6FE (04-06-2023)
#123

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Howdy Friends! I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a UMS 5-cylinder 75cc radial for my Jim Pepino Lockheed Vega 5B. It has a 100-inch wingspan and I'm thinking it will be just right under my cowling. I've done business with Adrian at CH Ignitions several times, and like him a lot. The same goes for Goetz Vogelsang, as we're practically neighbors. I was considering the Saito FG-73R5, but it doesn't come with an exhaust collector ring like the UMS 75cc engine does. Adrian recommended I buy the UMS. I'm leaning that way. Any ideas, guys? Thanks!
#124

Howdy Friends! I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a UMS 5-cylinder 75cc radial for my Jim Pepino Lockheed Vega 5B. It has a 100-inch wingspan and I'm thinking it will be just right under my cowling. I've done business with Adrian at CH Ignitions several times, and like him a lot. The same goes for Goetz Vogelsang, as we're practically neighbors. I was considering the Saito FG-73R5, but it doesn't come with an exhaust collector ring like the UMS 75cc engine does. Adrian recommended I buy the UMS. I'm leaning that way. Any ideas, guys? Thanks!
#125

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I have a new UMS 7 cylinder radial, ran good for half an hour then it became erratic, could not keep it running. Stalls on acceleration and found it misfiring. Discovered two cylinders with leaking spark arcing in the cable spark plug boots. You can hear and see the spark arcing along the glass body of the plug to ground... Has anybody had this problem? What can be done with it. I cleaned the plugs on the outside. Checked the gap. It is good.