3daviator

My Feedback: (23)

Ok who knows how to remove the prop hub for engine disassembly without damaging anything? Is it threaded or pressed on? I bought it used with a slightly bent crank and didn't get any lit with it.

Thanks

Kris^

My Feedback: (1)

If the crank is bent, or the hub is not square to the crank centerline, the best procedure is to send it back in for repair. the hub is aluminum, and if it got cocked slightly sideways on the crank the hub will have gotten deformed inside, and will tend to try to wander off center in the future. And, if the crank is bent, you will NEVER get it trued up properly by pressing it. BME considers bent cranks to be a throw-away item and not worthyof straightening. Add the fact that the bearings have been knocked pretty hard, and if the engine was run with a bent crank the bearings have probably been compromised even furtherl, attempting a repair outside of the BME facility will probably only lead to a failure of the crank or bearings in the future.

Best bet is to call or email BME, and send the engine in for a crankshaft repair. Attempting to do your own repair will definitely void the warranty. And please note that I did NOT tell you how to remove the hub, although I have the ability to do so myself, and have done so on several occasions. Repair is NOT authorized in this case, it is NOT a simple press-off/press-on procedure, and you WILL damage something if you try it without the proper alignment jig and pulling tools, not to mention the critical technique necessary to assure the hub is not deformed when being removed or reinstalled. Once removed, the hub is sometimes discarded by BME, so it's a one-time use part in most cases if damage is noted.

This is NOT a DA or 3W style hub with a tapered seat, but has a .002" interference fit that will be totally compromised by improper repairs.

3daviator

My Feedback: (23)

Kris, thanks for the reply. I don't have any gas engine(model) exp but it looked like it was pressed on and I thought to myself that this would be allot better setup with a taper (as you say da and 3w have). I realize the hub is alum and by the way the crank only goes about halfway into it I could see how it may be damaged as well. it runs out about .015 tir out near the prop end and only about .005 near the bearing end. I'll make up what I need to pull it off and see what's what. Never say never as far as straightening goes, just depends on how bad it is once I get it apart. Pt integrity shouldn't be an issue. Of course BME is going to discard and replace but I think it's a matter of not being worth their time vs selling you a new one. worst case scenario I'll have to buy some pts from BME. This is an older mtr so I'm not too worried about a warranty.