rollingrookie

My Feedback: (12)

What does that have to do with anything? If there is no path to connect fuel to the intake of the engine... thats pretty basic stuff...

GMoneyPit

My Feedback: (5)

You're right, thank goodness for people like Ralph (RCIGN1) who do and help us understand. Ralph usually elaborate a little more than that, however , which is also a good thing.

arobatx

I think ralph was short because wasn't this already covered in this thread somewhere? I seem to remember him mentioning that it can be repaired, in fact I believe he has offered to have someone send him the carb or entire engine and he will make it right. Maybe i am just dreaming...what do I know?

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

OK, a longer explanation...The brass piece is the high speed fuel nozzle...On most carbs there is no hole in the top..Some of the carbs have a very small hole in the top...A WTA6 is one of these....It's there so the owner can't make the carb too lean, even with the high speed needle closed...The normal setting on that carb when used on a G38 is from closed to 1/4 turn open...If an engine with one of those type carbs is run at high altitude it sometimes can't be set lean enough to run right...The Walbro on the DL50 I had here had a small ball pressed into the hole and was sealed with some type of clear sealer, there was not supposed to be a hole in it....
The small brass nozzle is drilled through from the side, 90 degrees to the top...Fuel from the cavity under the diaphram goes through a small hole in the carb casting to a space behind the high speed needle...from there it goes to the nozzle through another hole at the end of the threads, controlled by how far the taper on the end of the needle is out of the hole....If you spray carb cleaner into the high speed needle hole it should come out the end of the nozzle that protrudes into the venturi of the carb...If it doesn't there is something blocking the hole...
You can take a small number drill and carefully clean out the hole at the end of the threads...If you go too large it will make the hole too large for the high speed needle to work...
I have not seen a Walbro on a new engine with this hole blocked, but it could happen...It's not serious, it can be fixed as outlined above....
A WT 201 on a DA50 is an example of the hole at the end of the high speed needle being too small, it's just barely large enough for most props...When someone puts a 23-8 on one of these the high speed needle can't be opened far enough to let the engine run rich...A WT76A is the same size carb but has a slightly larger hole, so it works....A WT201 would be exactly the same if the hole was the same size as the hole in the WT76A...
It has already been proven that this works, it's here in the archives somewhere...
Long enough ?

GMoneyPit

My Feedback: (5)

Wait a second, I wasn't saying Ralph was short. I was pointing out that what F1race79 said was short "I don't think most of you know how a pump carb works." As in, what was his point? I was using Ralph as an example of an expert saying that when he says something, he gets to the point and answers questions that were asked.

I've got nothing but good things to say about Ralph. Please accept my apology for the confusion.

Gary

Edit: Thanks for the thorough explanation, BTW.

Edit2: In my original post, if you replace the word "that" with "you" in the second sentence, it would've been much more clear what I was trying to say. Sorry 'bout that.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

F1 Julius was right....
Carbs are mostly misunderstood, and the people who don't know how they work posting ways to fix what they don't understand only add to the confusion...
No offense intended to anyone who really knows...

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

Scariest thing to hear on the phone, about an engine that won't run is....."our club expert rebuilt the carb"

rollingrookie

My Feedback: (12)

Well so sorry to insult all of you experts who are masters of the carburater and sorry to those who I "confused". My intentions was just to chit chat how my DL50 was running and issues I had. I thought thats what these forums were for...

For my first gas engine I thought I did pretty good because it wasn't running and I made it run. Sorry to waste everyones time. I thought this was a hobby and supposed to be fun, not putting others down because they are still on the learning curve.

But whatever, you all enjoy.

Stick Bender

I hope evryone knows better than to run an engine up while in front of the prop. If that's what happened to you, you learned the hard way what you should have already known. You don't want to be inline with the blades during run up either. You and all spectators should be behind the prop whenever the engine is run up. Otherwise your just asking for disaster.

Stick Bender

Non of these videos are working for me, what am I missing?

Kevin Greene

My Feedback: (85)

I don't think that the insult was directed at you....There have been a lot of posts about carbs, especially with the DA 50, where there have been some "fixes" that have been questionable...Some were so wild in my opinion you just as well had sat down beside your engine in the dark, lit some candles, then threw fairy dust in the air---While chanting---"Fixing a Walbro carb is so easy a cave man could do it..." Viola--The carb is better than new!!![:@]

What you did to fix the blockage in your carb was correct---I think the major point that Ralph was driving home is that if you use the wrong size drill bit you could ruin the carb...

Kevin

jetstuff

Thanks for your info and don't get disheartened Rollingrookie..... and RCIGN1, a picture is worth a thousand words....any chance of a diagram for info?
[]

John

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Don't have a picture, I will measure the hole in the WT76 later and post the size here...

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

Ok Your promoted to "club expert"...
In reality for something being so simple and having only 4 moving parts, its mind boggling the number of way it can be put togather. Of course there is only right way.
To move up to the Pro class only requires about $35 worth of special tools. Then you can resize the jets for custom engines...[:@]
But practice on junk carbs first , cause your going to ruin a few.

CrateCruncher

My Feedback: (1)

Being new here I've noticed posts on RCU can be a bit harsh perhaps because of the enormous size of the user base. For those easily offended, thicken your skin, shrug it off, and keep contributing! For those quick to offend, ask yourself: would I say that to someone I work with every day? The seeming anonymity of the internet can embolden us, like flipping someone off in traffic that we'll never see again. Problem is we do see each other again.....

Snaer810

CreateCruncher...........VERY WELL PUT..............[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

I have been following this thread on the DL 50 sense well before the last one that closed down and there are some that forget that they were once beginners at this.

These gas engines are all very new to me and most of the information has been terrific. I placed an order with Bob a few days ago and will be putting this engine in a TF GS P51 with the Keleo Exhaust system.

I'm really hoping that folks here will not slam me or any other (Becasue they should have know)......Why do you think we are here along with other threads.....Trying to learn from some of the best.

Thanks in advance and hope you won't mind the dumb questions. Of course I have always been told there is no such thing.........

Later all

Mike

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

I took my carb off and removed the high speed needle. The orifice hole is approximately a drill #65. I can insert the drill to a depth that would reach to the side of the brass orifice/ball check assembly and then it sounds and feels like it hits metal. There is no flow through from the NV to the venturi. It owuld appear as if the side of the brass orifice was not drilled or is not aligned.

RCIGN1,

Should I drill this out to .035-.037?

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Number Size Drills
Diameter in Inches No. Dia.
1 .2280
2 .2210
3 .2130
4 .2090
5 .2055
6 .2040
7 .2010
8 .1990
9 .1960
10 .1935
11 .1910
12 .1890
13 .1850
14 .1820
15 .1800
16 .1770
17 .1730
18 .1695
19 .1660
20 .1610
No. Dia.
21 .1590
22 .1570
23 .1540
24 .1520
25 .1495
26 .1470
27 .1440
28 .1405
29 .1360
30 .1285
31 .1200
32 .1160
33 .1130
34 .1110
35 .1100
36 .1065
37 .1040
38 .1015
39 .0995
40 .0980
No. Dia.
41 .0960
42 .0935
43 .0890
44 .0860
45 .0820
46 .0810
47 .0785
48 .0760
49 .0730
50 .0700
51 .0670
52 .0635
53 .0595
54 .0550
55 .0520
56 .0465
57 .0430
58 .0420
59 .0410
60 .0400
No. Dia.
61 .0390
62 .0380
63 .0370
64 .0360
65 .0350
66 .0330
67 .0320
68 .0310
69 .0292
70 .0280
71 .0260
72 .0250
73 .0240
74 .0225
75 .0210
76 .0200
77 .0180
78 .0160
79 .0145
80 .0135

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

Skypilot, I thought of doing the same thing, butI munged mine up .


Snaer810, can;t wait to see the install photos of the Keleo exhaust....I bet you are going for a much higher pitch prop for that warbird than the 3d'ers...what size and pitch?? 20-12?

I am actually looking at 50cc twins....and the P-38 seems like the one ....I wonder what it would take to reverse one of these babies??

Ralph?

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Posted by no gyro

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Boss,

To reverse it I think you would want to rotate the barrel and piston 180* to keep the flow of gases working properly and then you would have to do something with the ignition. I have no idea I'm guessing based on the design of the piston skirt and porting.

The following is a link provided by rcign1:

http://www.aerocorsair.com/id27.htm

Snaer810

Hey Boss,

Well to tell you the truth this is my first warbird build and first gas installation..............

So far its been a great project and the build has been going pretty good so far with a few snags along the way. But it would not be a challenge if there were not a few of those. I would love to build either the Edge 540 or Yak for one of these 50CC DL's, but thats going to have to wait for next fall I think.

The DL 50 should be a great package in the P51. Of course for break-in I'll spin a 22X8 and look at flying a 22X10 or 22X12 - 2 bladed. I figured if I wanted to have the bird look a little more scale I might have to drop down to a 21 or 22X8 - 3 bladed. I'm not going to be able to spin a scale 4 blade its just to much. But I have been in touch with Joe Boyed from Warbird Prop Drives and they are really trying to finish up the testing and production of their drive system with a constant speed 4 blade setup. It is really an awsome thing to behold............... The test platform is with the DA50 installed and I would expect from everything that I am reading here is that the DL would fit right in its place.

But I'm not going to wait on the WPD drive I really want to get this bird in the air this summer....LOL.

I'll definitly forward on the progress and install when I get into it.....should not be long if my engine gets here soon.

Thanks for your interest, hope you don't mind a few questions along the way as far as mounting preferences etc.

Talk to ya'll later


Mike

Snaer810

Boss,

Sorry had my figures wrong on the the 3 blade it would have been a 20X8 or 20X10........Whoops.....

Later


Mike

closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

Skypilot
thanks for the info i have the same problem with my da,had the drill bits for sometime now just didn't have the balls to drill the jet out,i give it a try.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Will the WT76A carb resolve the midrange issues in the DA50. Sorry for the digression from DL