paul5992

Yes, my tech said unhook it and leave it there. It helps to keep the butterfly centered.

paul5992

What size fuel line are you guys running on your dl?

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I unhooked the return spring, but did not remove it.

Also use 1/8" id fuel line, although 3/32 would work just fine.

Stick Bender

I pulled the spring off and put some o-rings on the shaft, I just use a standard servo with Golden Rod with a fairly long piece of 2/56 metal rod (at the engine end) to make sure the plastic doesn't get softened by engine heat.


I didn't know if the servo would hold up and it would be a constant current draw even at steady throttle positions.

paul5992

aerobob is 1/8th in id large fuel line or medium.

747-RCU

My Feedback: (22)

Hello Dl50 users,
I got mine, removed DA50 from my GP YAK and bolted the Dl50 on it, Regular gas and 32:1 with MSC 22x8 prop. Choked it and flipped, started in few flips, ran on the ground for 3 times 15 minute runs on idle, idled nicely, checked throttle response, was good, engine was running fine without touching any needles, So, I took the plane up, flew the plane at about 1/3 throttle for about 5 flights of 15 minutes each. No problems so far, so after running it for this much, I thought I'd try giving it some power, when it is flying level, it will throttle up no problem, however, when I attempted a loop, it wanted to cut off on the top of the loop, backed off on the throttle and it recovered, tried that a few times and on the last flight yesterday, it did quit, The engine so far has about 3 hours of runtime, most of it on idle to 1/3 throttle, no needles touched so far.

Is it a bit lean on the high end or what? I am new to gas don't touch needles for nothing. Need expert's help.
Thanks in advance.
Maqsood

Stick Bender

I may have misunderstood, are you saying this is the first time you went past half throttle?

Did you do a wide open throttle run up before taking off?

Does it burble and sputter or did it run real pure then quietly sag till it quit?

If it's stumbling and stuttering it's rich, if it tries to die or dies on throttle up from idle it's lean on the low end, if sags down and tries to die or dies at wide open throttle it's lean on the high end.

Fear not the screws, as a starting point you can turn them in and count the turns, seat the screws very lightly as to not damage the carb. Then back them out to where they were, write the numbers down so you can get back to where your at or use the factory 1 3/4 high, 1 1/2 low as a starting point.

XJet

Yeah, I use a regular heavy-duty receiver switch with built-in charging jack -- saves messing around and has been reliable to date.

747-RCU

My Feedback: (22)

Hi Stickbender,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I had not run it at full throttle. It was running fine as I was only flying it at 1/3rd throttle before. So, after your post, I took the plane out today, ran the motor and went full throttle, it sagged and wanted to die, so seemed like lean on the high end, so I richened the needle about 1/8th of a turn, tried again and it ran perfectly. Did one flight, and no more problems running full throttle maneuvers.
Thanks again.
Maqsood

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Some people talk about setting the high speed needle to drop about 200rpm. Can anyone tell the difference between dropping the rpm 200 and tuning for max rpm when flying ? To get the 200rpm drop, are you doing it by richening or leaning the mixture?

Rfabbre

My Feedback: (6)

Can someone tell me how to post a photo?

Thanx Rich

paul5992

richen the top end to get the 200 rpm

paul5992

To post a photo at the bottom of the reply page is the upload images link..

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

At the lower left of the last post is a (Post Reply) button. There is a (Click here to upload images and files!) link at the lower left. The fast reply wasnt originally ment to do attachments.
Edwin

Rfabbre

My Feedback: (6)

I hesitate to bring up the subject of the DL50 mount again, but I am looking for some suggestions or advise. I would appreciate hearing from anyone, but would especially appreciate a reply from one of the DL50 experts like MFUESE.

In the pictures below you see a 3mm thick, aircraft grade aluminum plate. It is CNC cut to exactly match up with the rear plate of the DL50. My idea was to strengthen the mounting ears and give a stronger (more bad-landing resistant) base to mount either the stock DL50 mounting brackets or a set of standoffs.

Please let me know what you think. Is there likely to be interest in something like this?

Thanx Rich

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I like the concept a LOT. However, it would be more convenient if it was cutout to clear the carburetor. Installing the plate without R&R of the carb would generate more interest.

Like me, for example.
I'd take one just on principle, if I didn't have to fuss with the carb R&R.

Great idea. Will create enough strength to completely destroy the crankcase if it's a SERIOUS hit.... but that would probably happen anyway.

CNC stuff is cool....

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

looks fine if you like the extra weight. In the remote event that you break and ear, I'd just buy a new rear crankcase part #3 on the parts list. $60.00

John

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Great point! ON my Yak, if I did the DL, I'd *need* nose weight, to prevent re-engineering the guts of the bird, so a little more up there could be a "good thing".

What kind of weight penalty you think? 1.7, 1.8 oz?? Particularly if cutout to clear the carb?

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Has anybody used a Bisson inverted pitts muffler on a DA50 or DL50. I've heard the Bisson mufflers are pretty loud, is it true?
Edwin

Kweasel

My Feedback: (29)

Nice work on the mount. The one that I made was more U shaped to clear the carb and I used a notched angle across the top. I think this type of modification is required if standoffs are used with a DL50.

Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

It is all nice and good to re-inforce the ears....if you PLAN on crashing. I have had my share of nose-overs and hard landings...actually my Bipe almost always bounces a tiny bit...stiff gear, you know. My mounting ears have held up.

I nosed-over with a CF prop to boot, twice, and it was fine.

I use the DA-50 mounting pattern and the proper length standoffs form DA. I like 1/4-20 throught the firewall.

It seems that plate would nullify any DA-pattern direct replacement, which is one of the selling points of the motor, also.

Gotta go mix some gas.....I am trying to wear this motor out....and not having any success. It takes a lickiin' and keeps on tickin'...ala TIMEX watches.

Stick Bender

Problem solved, it was just a fouled spark plug. I think the moral of the story is: Have a spare spark plug. I have 6 spare plugs now. And the CM-6 seems to wobble a little less in the head.

I don't know if the problem was my race gas mix or the motorcycle oil with castor oil in it, but I will say without a doubt don't use either. It was probably a combo of lead and castor that fould the plug. It runs just as good maybe better on plain old pump gas.

Thanks to Bob a dlusa.net , now I will have a spare pickup sensor if I need it. Same day service, same day shipping, I can't complain about that. Thanks again Bob.

Now back to the screws, I asked because I am so lean on the low end screw. I just wanted to know if it's my air here or if others are this lean on the low end. I'm at about 1 1/2-1 5/8 on the high needle and less than 1 turn on the low. This gives me just a slight burble off idle but clean mid and high. It could be the airflow in my cowl too. I think once I switch to a 23x8 prop it will load the engine enough at low rpm to get it clean all the way through the throttle range.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Stick - that's COOL !!!

No one here will say "I told you so".....

well....

Maybe no one will....

paul5992

Stick bender, it depends on the temperature and altitude, The higher and hotter (temp) the leaner you have to be because the air gets thinner, less air less fuel. Go a little richer than the bog. But not so rich that it has a burble. Where the screws are has little to do with it. I mean if the low end runs good at 1 turn then run it. I haven't run my dl yet but I've been flying two stroke glow planes for 20 years. And the last glow motor I bought and have been running is a 120 os ax, And the needles are set way leaner than what the instructions say and it runs great. Also gas engines are not getting there lube from the amount of fuel running threw it like a glow model they get there lube from the oil mixed in the gas. So if there is no bog and your running the right gas oil mixture then fly it.

Craig 01

I can see that this statement is going to confuse some people.Fuel/oil ratios stay the same as what was initially mixed,regardless of needle settings.An engines Air/fuel ratio is set via the needles.The oil being part of the fuel mix.