Holton50

so i sent my engine to da today, they said 2 weeks.
anway, how many people out there auctually have this engine running right with the updates.... an no further mods?

khan

There were five DA 50 cc at the field the other day and all of them flew with no problems. Obviously mine was the best! I do run the extra line to the carb from inside the fuse.

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

I am a big fan of the AirBox, I think this is a Dick Hansen trick. See picture of my DA 50 on a DP Edge 540. I installed a pressure nipple on the carb plate and built a small balsa wood box from 1/16 contest balsa not sealed. Balsa acts as a fine air filter but will have very slow pressure changes. The pump diaphragm will see a constant pressure on the atmospheric side. My needles are not much different than the out of the box. After break-in I leaned both out. Inverted and knife edge, left or right I here no RPM change. In down lines the engine is solid. I have an older plane that uses a stock plate and I can hear the difference. This works much better than using a tube to a sealed fuselage which is hard to do with all the cutouts that a common in most ARF’s. My engine keeps getting better. I also think this keeps the engine from going lean. I have also run this engine at 97 degrees with out changing any settings. My DA will also idle at 1800 RPM and I have tested it inverted flat spin at 1800 RPM with out a hesitation to WOT and no dead sticks. I plan to use the AirBox set-up on all my engines.

I do fly at the same field as JoeAirport and I know his DA was not running perfect for whatever reason. His ZDZ runs great. I have seen more DA’s than any other engine and that is why I picked one up.

Joe’s ZDZ start-up procedure?????
I do have a problem with starting a gas engine at Full throttle and the choke 90% on. I have seen pilots make a mistake starting that way and have the engine fire up WOT because the pilot did not set the choke. I think any starting procedure that has full throttle is a dangerous. I have seen ZDZ’s start with only a few more flips than what my DA needs using the same procedure.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Well if you really want to go there many mistakes can be made during any engine start up. You gotta be carefull no matter what. There's no fully safe way to do anything with a gas engine except stay home and watch TV.

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

Very true, Joe...but Starting at full stick with ignition on and hope you have the choke open just right and only using a tail restraint on a lightly built plane on purpose could be a problem. If you have your needles set lean for the best 3D run you may have a hard time starting and I would have to agree that your ZDZ is running sweet and can see your point about crashing a plane over a dead stick when you are down low. If you are running that tight, I would then invest in a geared electric start unit and turn it over faster to get it running. This is a more common practice than your recommended Full throttle way. I would also try a C&H ignition unit, may have a stronger spark than the ZDZ unit???? I have an old Webra unit and it suffered from a weak spark. When hand flipping it was next to impossible to start it. I think everyone changed to C&H to get it to run right. Oh well this is off the subject and DA, ZDZ or XYZ ......gas should start easy and all are 3Dable.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

I actually don't start full throttle Tom. I prime WOT with the ignition off. You're making it sound worse than it is. I have it down where it starts very easy the first flip every time. Read my steps above and forget about the WOT part with the igniton on. What's your DA starting technique?

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

OK, on the last part.

I start everything the same way.


Full Choke = ¼ throttle (what would give about 2200 RPM) + ignition on and flip till I get a pop.

Open Choke reduce throttle flip about 4 time 6 max, running. (DA in 4 flips every time plus I have a servo on my Choke and if I am fast I can open the Choke when it pops and it will stay running)

If it has been sitting I will repeat the full choke step.


Works every time for me.

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

Man, I know you'll probably be offended, but really you shouldn't by what I'm about to say, .. but here goes. You could have listed your problematic DA50 here in the marketplace for $400. Some person who believes nothing else exists but a DA would have snapped it up in minutes .., then you could have taken that money, bought a supremely superior engine that makes MORE power than your DA50, has NO midrange burble, bolts right up to your existing mounts, is extremely user friendly, has a 2 year warranty, is New rather than used, is slightly lighter than DA50 ... the DL50. And with that $400 you could have bought and had it delivered to your door, with enough left over to take the wife out to dinner to celebrate the end of your engine problems and your wise and savy hobby purchase.

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

I have to admit I have never "yet" owned a ZDZ but I don't understand why every body has starting problems with any engine...... I choke with ignition ON, a tad above idle, flip until pop then take choke off and flip until it starts. There has never been an engine that "I" have owned that will not start this way.
I also have not had an engine that I can't make run in the air the same way as on the ground, might take a little work, but I have always been successful. Never owned a DA-50 though, wouldn't scare me away from buying one either.
Experiment, the magic box does work in some cases. I first came up with it on a stubborn 3W after talking with Bobby at Cactus Aviation. It was an easier solution than boxing the whole carb from air flow disturbances as he suggested. If you understand what and how things affect the running of an engine, it is easier to find a fix.

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

I have 4 DA 50R. no problems with any of them. all have been to DA for the upgrades. totally abused one on a reduction drive and a solo prop by running at 12,400 for about 8 minutes. figured that it was trash for sure, but it was fine.

Panzlflyer

My Feedback: (15)

I recommend trying a 50 ZDZ then if you want to build some arm muscles, most frustrating thing I ever dealt with and the distributor.

Definately something different between it and the other ZDZs

Tennwalker41-delete

My Feedback: (15)

FOr what its worth when u have a problem with that chinese copy try and get service. NOw then MY DA 50 starts like a dream every time. PUll choke full on, turn ignition on, flip 3 times and it pops everytime, pull choke off starts on the 2nd flip everyyyyyy time. Whomever said that the chinese copy makes more power than the DA has never run a DA!! DL 50 Supremely superior ha. U get what u pay for. MEanwhile i flip and fly

Mitsu1

My Feedback: (13)

Why make uninformed assumptions? The DL50 has a stateside distributor and service center at dlusa.net. Further more it is not a DA copy, but rather perhaps DA inspired. The diimensions of the two are different. DL has a taller jug with more fins, and a shorter length to hub than the DA. Not even the same size, as the DL is 50.8cc displacement. As for the more power, well ... don't take my word for it ... listen to your own DA-50 bretheren over in the DL thread who own "both" engines and have proclaimed the DL to be more powerful in the field (As well as the 5.2hp vs. 5.0hp). The user friendliness and smooth transition are also undeniable. I expected this kind of response from a DA owner, but hey ... its human nature to get all defensive when life as you know it is confronted with change. Just have your facts straight next time ... The DL does have the DA out paced in every known parameter with life span being the only unknown, .... but with the established knowns, that should hardly be a concern as well. Non of us will out live a properly setup and cared for gas engine anyway

3dsky

My Feedback: (84)

Holton 50 was looking for help on making his engine run better. There are several things that can affect performance of a gasser. I would bet that the carb plate that was recommended would have at least changed his symptoms and it could be made from an aluminum soda can for zero cost. I have added this fix at the field on guys engines and most of the time you will see a big improvement. Last week I had to do this fix on a Fuji with a side carb. Took about 15 minutes and the low-end idle was smoother and the transition was better. I could have told him to buy a DA or the now better DL. So with a very simple fix the engine worked great and I recommended that when he got home to make the change to the Magic Box. Just try holding a stiff piece of paper over the carb plate and change the angle of the paper and the RPM will change. This small change on the ground will become worse it the air with or without a cowl. So my point would be don’t blame the manufacture for something they can’t control, your installation. Cowl cut outs, carb placement, carb cutout size in firewall, distance away from firewall, is the carb ingesting very hot air, is the air turbulent from cutouts, ………. only a few.
Just selling your DA installing a DL may not fix the problems with the installation.

Holton50

yeah well im still waiting for my engine to come back from da... should be today to tomorrow. ill test these things out and let you guys know what happens.

Holton50

ok so i just got my engine back form DA a few days ago. i flew i the engine and she runs phenomenal. no more sagging in knife edge, never sounds like it wants to quit. she just runs real strong. DA defiantly took care of me. The invoice says they replaced carb block, lost of gaskets,new piston, front and mid bearings, crank shaft... rod pin .. the list goes on. pretty much have a brand new engine and they didn't charge me a dime. real happy with the people at DA. the new DL may be cheaper... but common DL?? hah o well I'm in love with my DA
thanks for all the input--