switch26

My Feedback: (1)

well guys i've desided to go with the DL-50,and as of now i've already mounted it to my GP pitts special,so far so good,ill have to do some wire routing to make for a clean look i bought the saito 300 twin engine thinking that i would like it in this plane,well i do like the saito alot would of made for a great scale like plane with the beautifull sound of the four stroke twin but i want lots of power on this beast so DL-50 it is,ill eventually get a Yak 54 so i can use the saito in the pitts and put the DL in the Yak for unlimited aerobatics,anyway only time will tell,

seems the saito is even longer than the DL-50 and the weird part is,the manual calls for the 300 twin but not a saito,an os gimini 300 twin,i figured they would be the same lenth,well nuff said,i'll post some pictures when the plane is ready for a maiden flight,one question,why do the gas engines have a return spring on the throttle?as i said before,this is my first gas engine hence the question,i just thought that with the spring i will need a stronger servo on throttle,or i thought it could be removed

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Don't remove the spring, just unhook it where it hooks on the carb and it will rotate around and hook at a new spot with a lower tension. Not enough to bother a servo.

BOUND_4_HELL

Hi switch26,

Do not remove the throttle spring, it keeps tension longitudinally on the throttle shaft, so you do not get excessive play. You can unhook it if your want. I left my alone, as the tension it puts on a standard servo arm, is not enough to make a difference to the servo.

Bound_4_Hell
Life should NOT be a trip to the grave with the idea of arriving safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, RC transmitter in one hand, a joint in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride".

BOUND_4_HELL

Hi Shawn45

I had the same problem on mine until I adjusted the needle leaver inside the carb.

The needle leaver needs to be lower than the carb base. Mine was at the same height as the base and running rich causing the mid range burble and a lot of mis-fires. I was making adjustments to the leaver a few thousands at a time and getting nowhere. Once I read the article below and set the leaver below the base by what looked to my eye about 2 mm give or take, it ran like a top, all the burble and misses are gone. It idles and accelerate a lot better as well.

I also did a spark plug test by running full throttle for a minute and shutting it off. Then I removed the plug and now it's a perfect tan colour.

Make sure you can run at full throttle on the ground for a couple of minutes without the engine running out of fuel after the adjustment. Be careful not to overheat your engine.

Bound_4_Hell
Life should NOT be a trip to the grave with the idea of arriving safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, RC transmitter in one hand, a joint in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride".



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Here are the instructions and a photo from the article. http://www.geocities.com/farellus/idle_adaptation.html

The Metering System is very simple: It consists of a pivoting lever working like a seesaw with a spring on one side and an Inlet Needle (with a red rubber tip valve) on the other.
If you don't have the pressure-testing tool, don't worry, just make sure you clean the carb, blow it dry and use new diaphragms & gaskets and set the Metering Lever height; The resulting pop-off and reseat pressure will be functional as long as you don't damage or modify the Metering Spring:
1) Don't deform or cut the small Metering Spring. If in doubt, replace it with Walbro part Walbro part # 98-320-7 (OEM # 503 28 12-18; WG8 carburetor).
2) Set the Metering Lever at the correct height as explained below.

The height of the Metering Lever on any diaphragm carburetor is critical for controlling when and how far the inlet needle 'pops' open, thus configuring the engine's acceleration characteristics. If the Metering Lever height is set too high, it may create a rich condition, while a Metering Lever set too low may create a lean condition. The height of the Metering Lever must be 1.7 mm or 0.067" (WG carbs) and 1.45 mm or 0.057" (WB carbs) below the edge of the carburetor body. Walbro sells a calibrated brass plate gage to be used as depth meter (Walbro item # 500-13-1) available through most power tool shops.

Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

Try here. They have great prices and their machined Aluminum. I needed my DL to stand off 6 1/4 inches from the firewall. So I ordered the 2 inch stand offs and the 1/4 inch spacers.
http://www.pspmfg.com/index.html

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

6 1/1" for standoffs probably is too long. Can a plywood ring be constructed to extend the firewall a little bit so that shorter standoffs can be used? I am worried about the amount of twist force generated by the engine.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I think he's referencing a total "firewall to backplate" dimension. Most all of the GP 27 - 33% ARFs planes are somewhere in the 6.5 - 7.25" total.

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

Cool.

Firewall noramlly means the thick plate on engine box where standoffs are mounted. I thought 3 pieces of 2" standoffs are to be connected to get 6".

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

That's a good example of where names of parts can confuse us all....I've been unclear about that sometimes, too. Exactly what *is* the first full-fuselage-sized bulkhead/former??? To me, I always think of the firewall as the place the engine hangs.

________________

I want to know more about this "wet and black" plug situation. Mine is frequently that way on post-flying session inspections.... but my transition is clean, idle is solid, not rich. Top end is good.

I also don't spend hardly ANY time at full throttle, because of my flying style.

Anyone can shed light on this?
Are my plugs not "tan" because I'm not running the engine hard enough?

OldRookie

My Feedback: (13)

When you run your engine without unhooking the throttle spring, do you use a pull, or a push pull rod?
I had heard that one of the well known flyers uses a pull Kevlar cable, instead of a rod.
Have any of you used this type of throttle pull setup?
What do you think?

Greg

doublesixes

I'm running a DL50 in my 77" Edge with great results but with a few hiccups too. For example, in trying to get rid of the burble that some posters are discussing here, I got to lean out my engine where all missing was gone, I thought, man you nailed it! Things were OK for a couple of months.
But under certain conditions the engine seemed a bit hesitant in the air, especially when doing inverted harriers and very tight loops from inverted. Well, after doing this for awhile, the engine quit. In fact I had about 6 deadstick landings in about 1 month. I could not pinpoint the exact weather condition prevailing nor could I associate it with any particular batch of gas used.
Th only cure that has worked was to open the low speed needle about 1/4 turn from where it was. Now the engine went back to burbling in the low/mid range but it's entirely trustworthy. It's a real shame as I feel disappointed at not being able to have the best of both worlds which is reliability and no burbling.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

double6's - sounds like YOUR carb may be a candidate for the pop off lever adjustment.... particularly since you have the low and high end right, and getting the midrange burble.... I recommend that adjustment, although personally I would ** HATE ** to have to do it because of the un-godly amount of hassle/headache with an installed engine.

But I am also the laziest flier on the planet.

doublesixes

Bob,
I'm following this thread with great interest as you say I may be a candidate for the pop off lever adjustment procedure. I will have my engine under close scrutiny tomorrow and see if the LSN could be closed just a tad without sacrificing reliability. If that doesn't work then it's on to the dreaded plan B.

switch26

My Feedback: (1)

BOUND_4_HELL

i guess ill have to leave the spring alone and just try it like that and if i have to,ill just unhook it as advised,thanks for the help,and whats with the cool signature? i like it LOL

BOUND_4_HELL

Hi doublesixes

I did the leaver adjustment to mine >> Things to be aware off >> be very careful with the little spring it is very squirmy and will zing out or your fingers fairly easy. I lost mine for about 5 minutes on one adjustment; I was lucky to find it. After that experience, I left the metering leaver and the spring attached to the carb base. I used two very tiny screwdrivers to bend the leaver into the correct position; you need to be very careful using the tiny screwdrivers, as you may damage the pop off needle, if you put too much pressure on it.

If you set the metering leaver too low you may run the float cavity dry and your engine will quit. Run it on the ground at full throttle for a couple of minutes to see if it will run without running out of gas, be careful not to overheat your engine.

Also do a spark plug test to see if you are running to lean.

Geppino

BOUND_4_HELL

Hi switch26

I had no problems leaving the spring on. I'm using a Sullivan Golden Rod on the throttle servo ( nylon rod inside a nylon tube ) The throttle servo does not even know the spring is there ( no buzzing or hunting what’s so ever).

As for the cool signature I borrowed it from a guy who borrowed it from someone else, so I cannot even give credit to the owner. I changed it to suit the hobby. I do not drink beer, I'm allergic to brewers yeast.
I know; it sucks...... I can only drink the hard stuff. I believe the original went like this.

Bound_4_Hell
Life should NOT be a trip to the grave with the idea of arriving safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, a beer in one hand, a joint in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride".

switch26

My Feedback: (1)

BOUND_4_HELL
i wont mess with the spring,ill do the same you did,and will get the throttle servo relocated,will use the plastic pushrod,i already got the engine mounted but still need some other things to complete the plane,i.e.pilot bust,prop,tank stoper for gasoline,and some other little things including the plastic pushrod,i also need to clean up the wireing a bit,have to cut the templates for the choke rod and the ignition module and the throttle arm,this is taking longer than i thought but is all working out very good,the clearance on the backplate and the front of the cowl worked out very well,it was a very tight fit,seems great planes made it a couple mms too short but still worke alright,by the way did you mount the ignition template solid on your plane?did you epoxy it in plase or did you use screws,im assuming that the idea of using the plate is for the ignition to have some sort of vibration isolation right?

well hey the signature thing worked out,is still a cool signature,i got mine from a shirt that someone was wearing at the field,i cant remember if i changed anything but i thought it was funny

BOUND_4_HELL

Hi switch26,

I mounted the ignition module and battery on a foam base and rubber bands. (See Photos) Gas engine tend to vibrate a lot more that glow. You will need to check everything after a good days flying, as screws, bolts, nuts, set screws, etc… will come loose.

You will also need to keep all ignition components, including battery and ignition switches 10 inches away from the receiver, servos and Rx battery. 10 inches will assure you do not get glitches in your control electronics.

I also used a High Tech Blue Aluminium Servo Arm on the throttle, as the one that comes with the Walbro Carb is useless.

Here is a signature that suits my situation.

Bound_4_hell
My wife said that if I go flying one more time she'll take off….….
It’s been five years and I still do not miss her……….

switch26

My Feedback: (1)

Very nice setup Bud,do you have to change the rubber bands quite often?looks like a vibration free setup,i'll see what i can come up with,that would be a better signature than mine,LOL
by the way i'll be running spektrum so i dont think i'll have any glitches with it but i am still going to mount the bateries,switches and servos as far as i can for peace of mind,oh yea i forgot to ask is it important to have an engine cut off module?i see alot of advertisement about them

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

They are very nice to have for convenience and safety. You can always run a servo to the choke to kill the engine too.

BOUND_4_HELL

Hi switch26

I had to change the rubber bands on the battery side once, as smoke oil (I use a mixture of diesel fuel and ATF for smoke oil) got on them and harden the rubber. The ignition module rubber bands have 60 flights on them and still look like new. I use foam and rubber bands for everything, I mounted my Rx battery and my smoke pump with rubber bands.

Opinions very a lot when it comes to ignition cut off switches, and there are a variety of switches to use, mechanical, electrical and fibre optics. I just hooked up my choke to a servo and I use that to cut the engine. In my humble opinion it kills two birds with one stone, as I did not need to hook up some fancy and complicated mechanical choke leaver to start the engine, and eliminated a switch component that can give me problems. I just flip a transmitter switch for choking and killing, it’s very convenient.

Here is a signature that I borrowed from my favourite Guns & Roses tune “ I use to love her “

Bound_4_Hell
I use to love her, but I had to kill her, I thought I’d miss her, so I buried her in my back yard,
but I can still hear her complain.

switch26

My Feedback: (1)

wont the engine flood if you choke it?

doublesixes

Geppino.
I was messing with the needles today and looks like I can lean the idle a bit and still have it reliable. It still burbles in the low/mid range but occasionally. I think I will continue fine tuning it tomorrow. One thing that I tried, is to let the engine idle at 1720 rpm for about 20 secs then throttle up in an instant. If there's no hesitation and instant response, then it most likely will behave OK in flight. If, on the other hand it shows the faintest sign of hesitation or responds slower than instant, the engine may quit in the air.
I fly a very light plane and I'd say that 30% of the time, my engine is idling because of my flying style so I'm at a higher risk of deadstick than pilots that run their engines in their mid to high ranges. I need instant response from idle since I'm doing (or trying) 3D stuff close to the deck. Fortunately I had all my flameouts 2 mistakes high!

switch26

My Feedback: (1)

very good idea using a servo for the choke but i already have 8 servos on the plane as it is,ill be running a lithium battery pack with a regulator to drom the voltage down to 6 volts,im also going to run a lithium for the ignition and voltage regulator to drop the voltage to 5 volts,i dont know as of now if i will be able to run a smoke system,i would like to but i would have to come up with some ideas and build the system with a servo tray,the great planes pitts is built very simple and should be easy to build the system,but for now all i want to do is to fly the plane,heres another cool signature i i like

from the movie gingle all the way
"always keep your promisess if you want to keep your friends"

BOUND_4_HELL

A cold gas engine needs to be choked and flipped several times to get the fuel to the combustion chamber. After flipping it several times the engine will try to start with the choke on but will only pop ( run for one to three seconds and die) at this point you open the choke and it should start in one or two flips. When you land and want to kill the engine flip the choke switch on and the engine will die.

My DL50 needs to be primed with ignition off and the choke on. Usually 10 or more revolutions of the prop, then I turn the ignition on and flip it 2 to 3 times more with choke on, until it pops, then choke off, flip one more time and away it goes. In my case this is how my DL50 wants to start, it's very consistent.

Geppino