BOUND_4_HELL

Hi Tim,

I do not know the answer, I do not even know what is written on the bottle. Are we talking about AMSOIL Dominator or AMSOIL Sabre oil. I have never personally used AMSOIL.

I have a friend who uses AMSOIL Dominator at 50:1 exclusively in his 250 2 stroke motocross racing bike and he thinks that Dominator is the greatest thing since slice bread. He was very proud to show me that after a season of running, his engine’s combustion chamber, piston and sleeves were clean and looked as good as new. And they really were clean, I was impressed.

A few of the guys at my club are running AMSOIL Sabre at 100:1 in a couple Zenoah’s, a couple of DA’s, and a 3W engine.

One guy was also using AMSOIL Sabre in his DA50 at 50:1. A couple of weeks ago his engine would not stat…… after a few days of running down the problem, he took the muffler off and his rings were stuck, I mean really stuck. He drowned the combustion chamber with mineral based oil and turned the engine over by hand and with a starter, but could not get his rings unstuck. Sent the engine off for repair and a good cleaning, if it can be cleaned??

I’m betting that it was the Saber mixed at 50:1 that caused his rings to stick. There was lots of hard deposits all around his rings, piston and sleeve. Or at least that what it looked like. One of the guys took his Zenoah 26 apart to see if he was also getting these deposits, his engine was very clean; he was using Sabre at 100:1

I do not want to start WWIII and I’m in no way saying it’s the engines fault or AMSOIL Sabres fault. It’s just my opinion formulated on the situation I observed. At the proper mixture, AMSOIL Sabre is a really good oil for our engines, which in my opinion is a 100:1

I'm sure it can be used at 50:1 or lower in the correct application, possibly go-cart engines that run hotter than usual to burn off the hard additives, that are mixed in the oil.

Geppino

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Yes, still am.....no diodes used on v.2 RcExcel ignitions with manf. date of 8/2007 or later needed. I acquired an engine recently that had a v.2 ignition of 6/2007 manf date, and it would misfire when at full temp with un-dropped A123 voltage, so I did the diode thing on it, works fine.
Also, IIRC, the CH "RcExccel" modules cannot tolerate full A123, which is why rch (Bill Carpenter) recommends using only less than 6v

On my larger planes, I have separate A123 packs for ignition. The single pack is on my small GP Cap 232 w/ DL 50. It also happens to have the older ignition module, so it needed the dropping diodes.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Oil Safety 101 -
1. Read the instructions provided with the engine.
2. Adhere to them.
3. When you decide to go a different route, for whatever reason....
4. Mix oil according to the OIL manufacturer's instructions.
5. More oil isn't good
6. Less oil will hurt things
7. Any oil run in an engine that gets too hot will stick things
8. Running low ratios of oil, regardless of flavor, is only good ** IF **
a. You know how to cool an engine
b. You know how to PROPERLY adjust the needles and
c. You load the engine (prop) correctly to keep CHT proper.
9. Running low oil ratios when you are NOT confident about 8 a - 8 c is a bigger gambling risk than craps tables at Vegas, and it is slanted toward "engine owner LOSES" everytime.

krproton

Hey Geppino,

thanks for taking the time to write your explanation and experiences. Interesting info.

Thanks again!

Tim

P.S. I just went back to the DL web site and re read the break-in procedure under the "FAQ" section. Therein, the author states he runs Amsoil Saber @ 85:1 (after the break-in).

krproton

Hey, anybody running a 3-blade on their DL 50?

I wanna get a Mejzlik for the DL in my GP Edge 540. I know you have to experiment to find the best one, but maybe somebody has already done the experimenting and can point me in the right direction. I was recommended a 20 x 8, but looks like Mejzlik doesn't offer one in that size.

Thanks if you can help.

Tim

BOUND_4_HELL

Hi Tim,

What I wrote is just my opinion, I’m not a professional oil chemist, so I’m not going to contradict DLUSA, as my opinion could be blowing smoke. And that is why I jokeling wrote that after the break in….. WWIII may start, as opinions vary a lot on this subject. And to tell you the truth I do not know who is correct, I could be wrong as all the rest. Although Bob’s post on “ Oil Safety 101 – “ is in my opinion bang on.

Here is some more info, on the situation, so pilots can form their own opinion.

None of the guys I mentioned using Sabre at 100:1 do any hovering. Different application of our model airplane engines will have different oil and different mixtures, depending on how you are using the engine and how well cooled the engine is. ie: if you are using it for hard 3D or just normal sport flying. I’m of the opinion that different ratios will work just fine, depending on the application.

My fellow club member that was using Sabre at 50:1 was also using his engine for IMAC moves, no hovering, so it never got hot. When the guy gets his engine back and possibly an explanation for the stuck rings, I will post that as well. Again, it will be someone’s opinion, all be it professional.

Here is another opinion. Pilots should use whatever oil / mixture that works for them.

Geppino

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Ah, Geppino, I think we could have some interesting chats!!!!!!! Thanks for the Props....but....here's the antithesis of the same situation....

New Guy Jerome Gasser Go-Lightly has just purchased his Ever So Great 45 cc fire-breather. At his local yokels' gathering place of nearly all non-flyers, they *all* have "heard" that you better use Oil Xray at 300:1 with the Ever So Great 45, or it will BLOW UP!!!
Of course, they ALL "swear by it", and new guy Jerome doesn't yet know that NONE of those guys know "come Here" from "sic 'em" about gassers, but that they have been "internet educated".

So Jerome trots to the nearest oil-repository and picks up a GALLON of Oil Xray, which is a LIFETIME supply as he only flies on weekends. Follows the instructions of the local yokels, because he thought the instruction sheets in the box with the engine were packing material, so he discarded them.

After his grueling 3 day, 11 hour, and 33 minute break in at 50% full throttle, low throttle, (again per local yokels), he installs the engine, takes off on the first flight and the ENGINE SEIZES, dies, and crashes his plane.

He (Jerome) now expects FULL replacement warranty of BOTH the Ever So Great 45 engine *** and *** the Never SO light 30% scale Whatzit that is now rubble.

Not receiving any warranty replacement, Jerome then turns to RCU to lambast how crappy the engine is, how pitiful the instructions are, and how god-Awful the manufacturers are for having "no warranty".

Yeah, is this a great hobby, or what??????

arobatx

...are you out of popcorn bob?

salerno

i use 3W fully synth. oil @ 50:1. it is easily available where i live and is completly clear. never any mess on the plane at all, and inside the engine is clean as! i figured if is is good enough for the pros to use in their engines it must be alright for me! but i have to admit i know jack about oils and this is my first gasser!

salerno

Dumb question coming, when people talk about adjusting the float needle lever in the carbs, how do you actually adjust it? never had a good look at it, but do you squash the spring or bend the lever or something? just interested as i was just reding the post a couple of pages back.

BOUND_4_HELL

Bob, no doubt about it, you are the master, and as always you hit the nail right on the head. How could anyone argue with that. I’m raising the white flag. WWIII is over.

I want to personally thank you for the laughs, as I’m still laughing, as I write this post. I believe that if everyone laughed more, the word would be a better place.

As for the interesting chats, I’m sure they would be very educational for me……..[sm=idea.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

And yes, wholeheartedly, this is a great hobby and I’m having a lot of fun with it.
Would not trade it for anything in the world.

Geppino
AKA
Bound_4_Hell
My wife said that if I go flying one more time she'll take off….….
It’s been five years and I still do not miss her……….
I use to love her, but I had to kill her, I thought I’d miss her,
so I buried her in my back yard, but I can still hear her complain. [sm=cry_smile.gif]

BOUND_4_HELL

Hi Salerno

In my humble opinion, there are never any dumb questions.
The short answer to your question is yes to all, the long answer is here.

http://www.geocities.com/farellus/idle_adaptation.html

Bound_4_Hell

salerno

thanks for the reply, the site tells you what you want to acheive and why bla blah, but i dont actually see how! maybe i'm tired!

raulcroes

Dear Gentlemen,

Have any of you used Red Line 2-stroke synthetic racing oil with your DL-50? is it good? at what concentration is it being used? Your comments are highly appreciated. I thank you in advance.

Raul G. Croes [8D]

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Oil, are you supposed to use oil in two stroke engines? A friend of mine and I were about 4 miles from his cabin on two very new jet skis, when the one I was riding died. Two days later the other one died. Yup, you guessed it, someone in his family accidently put gas in the oil reservoir. $12,000 worth. Oh, did I say I hate jet skis! I always triple check to make sure there is oil mixed in with my DL50's fuel.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

At least it wasn't smoke oil.[]

raulcroes

Gentlemen,
I have gone back and read previous posts and saw what Bound 4 hell had to say about Red Line oil. That pretty much sums it up, but I would still like to hear the opinions and experiences of other Red Line users and at what mixing ratios are they running at. Keep up the good work!
Raul G. Croes [8D]

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I sure hope not, I just got comfortable.

BOUND_4_HELL

Hi Salerno,

In the article they mention that you can elongate the little spring or squish it to change the tension. I would personally never do this, if you suspect the spring, just replace it with a new one. And how is one to know if the tension on the tiny spring is wrong???

The article also mentions to bend the leaver to change the pop off and reseat pressure of the needle. But you are correct, they do not mention how to do bend it.

I tried this adjustment because my engine was running really rich, causing mid range burble and a lot of misfires. Although to the DL50’s credit, it has never flamed out.

Here is my experience with this adjustment:
At first I took the leaver and spring assembly out of the carb and bent it with small pliers. This was more trouble than I wanted to experience. The little spring is very squirmy and will zing out or your fingers fairly easy when you reassemble the leaver. I lost the tiny spring for about 5 minutes, (it was probably more like 15 min) on one adjustment; I was lucky to find it. After that experience, I left the metering leaver and the spring attached to the carb base. I used two very tiny screwdrivers to bend the leaver into the correct position.

Hold one side of the leaver on the needle end with one tiny screwdriver, use the other tiny screwdriver to bent the other half of the leaver. You need to be very careful using the tiny screwdrivers, as you may damage the pop off needle, if you put too much pressure on it. I tried to keep the needle floating while I bent the leaver.

Things that I learned while doing this adjustment.
1) If you set the metering leaver too low you may run the float cavity dry and your engine will quit.
Run it on the ground at full throttle for a couple of minutes after an adjustment to see if it will run
without running out of gas. Be careful not to overheat your engine.
2) Do a spark plug test to see if you are running to lean.

Positive effects of the adjustment:
1) Almost all the burble and misfires are gone. Depending on atmospheric conditions,
some days it still burbles a little. But compared to how it was running before it’s a lot better.
2) It idles and accelerate a lot better.
3) I get a little extra flight time out of my tank.

Negative effects of the adjustment:
1) It’s harder to start when cold, the first start of the flying day.
My DL50 before the adjustment needed to be primed with ignition off and the choke on. Usually 10 revolutions of the prop, then I turn the ignition on and flip it 2 to 3 times more with choke on, until it pops, then choke off, flip one more time and away it goes. In my case this is how my DL50 wants to start, it's very consistent.

Now it’s basically the same procedure, but I need to turn the prop 25 to 30 times on a cold start. On a positive note.... I do not think that I can flood this engine, as I also turned the prop 60 times and it still started without complaining one bit.

Hope this helps, and answers your question.
Geppino

overbored77

My Feedback: (11)

Ok, I have decided not to buy another Pattern plane this winter but I instead am ordering my first gasser (Dietrich Extra 260). I am planning
on running a Dl50 and was wondering what you guys think, Will it be enough. I have an excellent giant scale pilot at my field and he will help
me with the setup and breakin, but as he only has experience with DA he asked me to make this post and see if there is anything we need to know
about potential problems that may arise during setup or breakin.

Thanks in advance
Chris.

Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

I've got a quick question about the carb placement on the DL 50. I'd like to rotate it 180 degrees, so the linkage will on the other side. I need to know if I need to rotate the black reed block 180 as well, or leave it in the same position and only rotate the carb. Thanks

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Rotate both, extend the pressure pulse line from block/crankcase to carb as needed.

Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

Thanks Bob! I'm installing the DL in the very newly released. Aeroworks Extra 300 LP. Hope to have a flight report soon.

denney47

My Feedback: (359)

Thank you very much Bob
Tom
Valley View RC

wavy777

Just hope your throttle linkage and servo's never fail....use the DFWGE method (dont f**k with gas engines) and use a kill switch controlled by your radio...a MUST have surely..