DL-50 engine
11-19-2007, 10:28 PM
#503
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: drewbags
Well I have just got my 2nd and 3rd DL50. Unfortunately No2 is misbehaving at the moment, took a while to get it running and it ran ok with a peak around 6900rpm WOT. However trying to start it , it is a pig!! Tried No3 engine and that was what I would expect from a DL, starts easily, etc, etc. So I thought maybe a Carb problem, swapped the carbs but still No2 was a pain to start and in the end couldn't get it to go before the daylight ran out!! Anyway stripped down the engine and could not find anything wrong with it, the only thing I noticed was that it had slightly less compression than the other.
I will have a more thorough investigation over the coming days and see if I can nail down what is going on. Can't quite work out why it would run, but be such a pig to start, maybe a fuel delivery problem which is why I switched the carbs?
Well I have just got my 2nd and 3rd DL50. Unfortunately No2 is misbehaving at the moment, took a while to get it running and it ran ok with a peak around 6900rpm WOT. However trying to start it , it is a pig!! Tried No3 engine and that was what I would expect from a DL, starts easily, etc, etc. So I thought maybe a Carb problem, swapped the carbs but still No2 was a pain to start and in the end couldn't get it to go before the daylight ran out!! Anyway stripped down the engine and could not find anything wrong with it, the only thing I noticed was that it had slightly less compression than the other.
I will have a more thorough investigation over the coming days and see if I can nail down what is going on. Can't quite work out why it would run, but be such a pig to start, maybe a fuel delivery problem which is why I switched the carbs?
Tom
Valley View RC
11-20-2007, 06:01 AM
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RE: DL-50 engine
Hi Guys, I am up for a new prop and have been running A23x8 JXF. I will probably get another JXF but was wondering what the equivalent in the Vess would be. I was sort of leaning towards a 23A in the vess.
I have mainly been doing a bit of sport flying and trying to learn a few 3D moves such as hovering. The DL is dragging a Precision Aerobatics 540 Edge. Any input is welcome.
I have mainly been doing a bit of sport flying and trying to learn a few 3D moves such as hovering. The DL is dragging a Precision Aerobatics 540 Edge. Any input is welcome.
11-20-2007, 10:38 AM
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RE: DL-50 engine
No, the plane weighs just over 16 pounds dry and carries 24 ounces of gas. I also had to put 11 ounces of lead in the front to balance it.
RichAur, I'm running a 23A and it does very well. I'm doing the same type of flying you are from the sound of it.
RichAur, I'm running a 23A and it does very well. I'm doing the same type of flying you are from the sound of it.
11-20-2007, 08:59 PM
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RE: DL-50 engine
Wow, thats a lot of added weight. I just put my batteries in the motor box and used the heavy stock spinner. Cg is a little rear for precision stuff but fine for general flying and 3D. Oh, 16 oz tank is plenty. 24 oz in my 33% with a zdz 80.
11-20-2007, 11:05 PM
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RE: DL-50 engine
So did I but with a 3oz tailwheel I still needed the weight. Mind you, with the DL-50 in it it really didn't make a difference to the airplane's performance!!!
11-20-2007, 11:49 PM
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RE: DL-50 engine
I know this has been answered before but what pitts style muffler works the best noise is not a problem I want the most power possible
11-21-2007, 02:27 AM
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RE: DL-50 engine
I do not know how many of you have read these instructions [link=http://www.rccdi.com/INSTRUCTIONS%20for%20Rcexl%20Ignitions%20ver%202.0 .pdf]INSTRUCTIONS for Rcexl Ignitions[/link] at RCCDI homepage for the ignitions that are supplied with the DL-50.
I am really interested in the section on the ideal batteries to be used if you are using a NiCd/NiMh battries. I had originally planned on using a 4 cell (4.8V) battery pack but know after trying to read this manual (clearly not one of the best translations ever) I am wondering what they mean by (I am quoting directly from the instructions) "If Use 4.8v pack the engines not highest rotational speed, Also use 6V pack" . Does this mean that you will get the highest revs using 6V or 4.8V packs.
Thanks
Pupmeister
I am really interested in the section on the ideal batteries to be used if you are using a NiCd/NiMh battries. I had originally planned on using a 4 cell (4.8V) battery pack but know after trying to read this manual (clearly not one of the best translations ever) I am wondering what they mean by (I am quoting directly from the instructions) "If Use 4.8v pack the engines not highest rotational speed, Also use 6V pack" . Does this mean that you will get the highest revs using 6V or 4.8V packs.
Thanks
Pupmeister
11-21-2007, 04:41 AM
#512
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RE: DL-50 engine
That's sure what it sounds like to me, using your description.
The faster the engine runs, the shorter the time the ignition has to charge up for each new spark. Higher voltage would be one way to fatten up the spark by putting more power into each and every spark.
Ed Cregger
The faster the engine runs, the shorter the time the ignition has to charge up for each new spark. Higher voltage would be one way to fatten up the spark by putting more power into each and every spark.
Ed Cregger
11-21-2007, 04:48 AM
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RE: DL-50 engine
I am using a 4.8V 2100mah NiMh pack without any hicups.
If after applying my limited skills in the art of reading Chinglish I came out with a 4 cell fully charged (6V+) = good. A 4 cell at minimum charge (4.8V) = bad or low mah pack could limit your revs, if your revs are limited a 5 cell pack = good also. I would presume a pack that is limited to around 7 Volts when fully charged is going to be fine. If the pack goes above this you need to run a reg, so 7Volts> = bad or reg required.
If you get a larger mah pack, it is able to supply more current to a demanding ingnition unit. The voltage is only the potential. If your battery is unable to supply enough current it doesn't really matter what the voltage is. My suggestion is a larger mah 4 cell pack which will reduce the risk of straining the ignition running on a higher voltage but be able to supply enough current to keep up with demand of the ignition at higher revs.
As Ed said the increase in voltage will increase your spark but it may also decrease the life of your ignition depending on how robust, the quality and type of the components used in the ignition. A lot of cheaper readily available electronics (TTL) requires a 5V potential bias to enable it to work (5V VCC). These components may have a tolerance to allow you to use a 7V pack but this higher voltage may stretch these components. A really good quality ignition would have a 5V regulator built in to allow you to use various voltages.
This is just speculation though as I am not aware of what components are utilised but may give you some idea to why certain voltages are required for various electrical equipment.
If after applying my limited skills in the art of reading Chinglish I came out with a 4 cell fully charged (6V+) = good. A 4 cell at minimum charge (4.8V) = bad or low mah pack could limit your revs, if your revs are limited a 5 cell pack = good also. I would presume a pack that is limited to around 7 Volts when fully charged is going to be fine. If the pack goes above this you need to run a reg, so 7Volts> = bad or reg required.
If you get a larger mah pack, it is able to supply more current to a demanding ingnition unit. The voltage is only the potential. If your battery is unable to supply enough current it doesn't really matter what the voltage is. My suggestion is a larger mah 4 cell pack which will reduce the risk of straining the ignition running on a higher voltage but be able to supply enough current to keep up with demand of the ignition at higher revs.
As Ed said the increase in voltage will increase your spark but it may also decrease the life of your ignition depending on how robust, the quality and type of the components used in the ignition. A lot of cheaper readily available electronics (TTL) requires a 5V potential bias to enable it to work (5V VCC). These components may have a tolerance to allow you to use a 7V pack but this higher voltage may stretch these components. A really good quality ignition would have a 5V regulator built in to allow you to use various voltages.
This is just speculation though as I am not aware of what components are utilised but may give you some idea to why certain voltages are required for various electrical equipment.
11-21-2007, 06:39 AM
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RE: DL-50 engine
G'day Scott
Got my engine and 2 props from ya today - awesome product and fantastic next day service. Its going into a GP Yak-54. Just one question, do you have any photos of the recommended linkages for the choke and throttle? I'm new to gassers so its a bit of a mystery to me. Cheers mate
Got my engine and 2 props from ya today - awesome product and fantastic next day service. Its going into a GP Yak-54. Just one question, do you have any photos of the recommended linkages for the choke and throttle? I'm new to gassers so its a bit of a mystery to me. Cheers mate
11-21-2007, 07:22 AM
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RE: DL-50 engine
Bisson or J'Tec Pitts for the DA 50's fit perfectly. I ran the J'Tec for awhile, worked fine, didn't choke things too much, as I recall. Slimline makes one also, don't know if it is restrictive or not.
11-21-2007, 08:12 AM
#518
RE: DL-50 engine
Guys--I haven't read the entier 21 pages of this thread, but I am contemplating a DL 50 for my Giant Aeromaster. Also looking a BCME 53--about the same cost. What are you opinions? BTW--AUW of the GP G Aeromaster is about 18 lbs. Not a 3D plane but good for general flying aerobatics. It is my first gasser.
11-21-2007, 08:36 AM
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RE: DL-50 engine
Bob, If I had known you had the answer to the question - I wouldn't have bothered adding my speculation to the "forum"! Silly me! I though I might have given him a little more info to base his decision on.
What voltage is a 2S 123A? 7volts? 8.5Volts? Maybe pupmiester is not up on the latest battery technology and is unsure of the finer details behind your application (oops there I go speculating again).
Anyway if you have any details worth passing on to do with the modifications made to the circuit I would be interested to know so as I could evaluate the quality of the design behind the ignition myself. Did he simply add a resistor in series to drop some voltage? This may affect those of us using a 4.8V pack..... Did he set up a voltage divider network? Maybe he has dropped the semiconductor electronics down to 3V VCC and placed a regulator to drop the battery voltage down?
At least we know if we use a 2S 123A battery we can claim the warranty cause Bob told us the manufacturer told him it was OK to use
"Forum", look it up.
What voltage is a 2S 123A? 7volts? 8.5Volts? Maybe pupmiester is not up on the latest battery technology and is unsure of the finer details behind your application (oops there I go speculating again).
Anyway if you have any details worth passing on to do with the modifications made to the circuit I would be interested to know so as I could evaluate the quality of the design behind the ignition myself. Did he simply add a resistor in series to drop some voltage? This may affect those of us using a 4.8V pack..... Did he set up a voltage divider network? Maybe he has dropped the semiconductor electronics down to 3V VCC and placed a regulator to drop the battery voltage down?
At least we know if we use a 2S 123A battery we can claim the warranty cause Bob told us the manufacturer told him it was OK to use
"Forum", look it up.
11-21-2007, 08:53 AM
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: pooks31
G'day Scott
Got my engine and 2 props from ya today - awesome product and fantastic next day service. Its going into a GP Yak-54. Just one question, do you have any photos of the recommended linkages for the choke and throttle? I'm new to gassers so its a bit of a mystery to me. Cheers mate
G'day Scott
Got my engine and 2 props from ya today - awesome product and fantastic next day service. Its going into a GP Yak-54. Just one question, do you have any photos of the recommended linkages for the choke and throttle? I'm new to gassers so its a bit of a mystery to me. Cheers mate
Happy to hear you got the engine safe and sound.
Should be a couple of pics attached to the back of the manual included with the engine to help give you a start for the choke if you want ot go manual.
We find balls links with a 2-56 ball, and 4-40(or 3mm) rod give a nice positive link (Dubro Make them). Sullivan make a composite flexi Rod that is nice, and doesnt change with temp and has 4-40 size threads included etc.
Make sure you have no metal/metal contact.
PM me and Ill get a few photos together for you and send them through. Otherwise Im sure the guys on this thread will have plenty to post?
Cheers
Scott.
11-21-2007, 09:35 AM
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RE: DL-50 engine
Hiii Guys, so i bought my DL50 today, and i love it very nice engine, but i have a question, why the engine smells on petrol??? Is it tested by the factory??? It looks new to me!
BTW can't wait to try it on my 30%YAK 54
BTW can't wait to try it on my 30%YAK 54
11-21-2007, 10:54 AM
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: aci-bt
Hiii Guys, so i bought my DL50 today, and i love it very nice engine, but i have a question, why the engine smells on petrol??? Is it tested by the factory??? It looks new to me!
BTW can't wait to try it on my 30%YAK 54
Hiii Guys, so i bought my DL50 today, and i love it very nice engine, but i have a question, why the engine smells on petrol??? Is it tested by the factory??? It looks new to me!
BTW can't wait to try it on my 30%YAK 54
You will still need to adjust the carb needles some.... especially the low end needle.
11-21-2007, 02:55 PM
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RE: DL-50 engine
I switched to 6volts on my RCexcl version 2 ignition, and it lasted 2 flights... fried... I got another from mr. rcexcl ran it on 6volts... 1 1/2 flights... fried.... Got a third from CH, running on 4.8v... 100+ flights no problem..
My fully charged 6v pack peaked at 7.21v.. and had 7.1v under a .5amp load... It fried two Version 2 ignitions... The ignition shipping now with the DL50 is Version 3... I don't have one, but 4.8v should work fine with it.
My fully charged 6v pack peaked at 7.21v.. and had 7.1v under a .5amp load... It fried two Version 2 ignitions... The ignition shipping now with the DL50 is Version 3... I don't have one, but 4.8v should work fine with it.