DL-50 engine
#6176
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I HAD A DLE-55 ON THE CAP 27% , IT WAS WONDERFUL, WITH THE SERVOS FOR THE RUDDER IN THE TAIL, THE PLANE BALANCED PERFECTLY WITH THE RX BATTERY TOWARD THE REAR. THAT WAS A GREAT PLANE, NO PUN INTENDED. THAT MOTOR WILL MAKE YOU VERY HAPPY ON THAT PLANE.
#6178

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If the timing is bad in the moduel the prop will kill your fingers kicking back at you. Almost impossible to start. That is the only problem I ever ran into and had to replace the ECM. Is it still firing and what makes you ask. More details would help .
#6180
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I ask because I have a DL 50 that is hard to start when cold and almost impossible to re-start after it has been flown a couple of time in a day.
After it pops with the choke on, I open the choke with throttle trim set high and flip 20 - 30 times and all I can get out of it is short bursts of 2 - 3 seconds of run time. Choke and flip and flip and choke etc..... It even back fires often when trying to get it started.
CM6 gaped at .020
Walbro WT 751 with screen cleaned and both needles set to 1.5 turns out.
Once it starts it seems to run OK. This past weekend I got three flights out of it with the high end running rich enough to burble. I leaned the high end between each flight. On the fourth flight it wouldn't start after many flips of the prop. Pulled the plug and it was soaked. Replaced with another plug and finally got it started by opening the throttle up to more than 1/4.
Just wondering if this sounded like the ignition may be out of time.
I guess I should mention, this is not my only gasser. Zenoah G23, DL-30 and BME-116 all running and starting just fine.
Any suggestions?
After it pops with the choke on, I open the choke with throttle trim set high and flip 20 - 30 times and all I can get out of it is short bursts of 2 - 3 seconds of run time. Choke and flip and flip and choke etc..... It even back fires often when trying to get it started.
CM6 gaped at .020
Walbro WT 751 with screen cleaned and both needles set to 1.5 turns out.
Once it starts it seems to run OK. This past weekend I got three flights out of it with the high end running rich enough to burble. I leaned the high end between each flight. On the fourth flight it wouldn't start after many flips of the prop. Pulled the plug and it was soaked. Replaced with another plug and finally got it started by opening the throttle up to more than 1/4.
Just wondering if this sounded like the ignition may be out of time.
I guess I should mention, this is not my only gasser. Zenoah G23, DL-30 and BME-116 all running and starting just fine.
Any suggestions?
#6181
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ORIGINAL: w8ye
The timing on a RCEXL ignition is velocity sensitive.
If you slowly crank the prop around, the ignition will fire at the full advanced position.
The timing on a RCEXL ignition is velocity sensitive.
If you slowly crank the prop around, the ignition will fire at the full advanced position.
I've been reviewing this video on how to set the ignition. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBXFpxWg7vY
Any help here would be greatly appreciated..
#6183
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Something like this?
1 TDC
2 Set set scale to zero
3 Rotate crankshaft counter clockwise until spark
4 Adjust timing until you spark at 28 degrees
5 Lock down the hal sensor
W8ye, I am not sure I understand this statement and how it translates into the degrees that one should set the timing.
(If you slowly crank the prop around, the ignition will fire at the full advanced position. )
1 TDC
2 Set set scale to zero
3 Rotate crankshaft counter clockwise until spark
4 Adjust timing until you spark at 28 degrees
5 Lock down the hal sensor
W8ye, I am not sure I understand this statement and how it translates into the degrees that one should set the timing.
(If you slowly crank the prop around, the ignition will fire at the full advanced position. )
#6184
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RC and C&H are MADE to work that way....C&H was first and was cloned by RC EXL...
First flip electronically retards the ignition to about 2 BTDC, then it advances when running to 28 BTDC at 4000 rpm and stays there until the throttle slows the engine below 4000 rpm...Pretty much a linear curve....
Unless you are a real newbie, they have been this way for about 15 YEARS now..
DA and 3W are different..You can't slowly turn either of these and get a spark...They both ADVANCE from about 4 when started...Takes a good flip for the transformer sensor on these to generate enough current to work....
First flip electronically retards the ignition to about 2 BTDC, then it advances when running to 28 BTDC at 4000 rpm and stays there until the throttle slows the engine below 4000 rpm...Pretty much a linear curve....
Unless you are a real newbie, they have been this way for about 15 YEARS now..
DA and 3W are different..You can't slowly turn either of these and get a spark...They both ADVANCE from about 4 when started...Takes a good flip for the transformer sensor on these to generate enough current to work....
#6185

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ORIGINAL: FlyBy8
Something like this?
1 TDC
2 Set set scale to zero
3 Rotate crankshaft counter clockwise until spark
4 Adjust timing until you spark at 28 degrees
5 Lock down the hal sensor
W8ye, I am not sure I understand this statement and how it translates into the degrees that one should set the timing.
(If you slowly crank the prop around, the ignition will fire at the full advanced position. )
Something like this?
1 TDC
2 Set set scale to zero
3 Rotate crankshaft counter clockwise until spark
4 Adjust timing until you spark at 28 degrees
5 Lock down the hal sensor
W8ye, I am not sure I understand this statement and how it translates into the degrees that one should set the timing.
(If you slowly crank the prop around, the ignition will fire at the full advanced position. )
If you do this while playing around trying to start your engine, the prop will bite your finger real bad because the timing is at full advance rather than being retarded like when you flip the prop fast.
#6186
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If your spark plug is really wet then it will not start because it is flooded. Recheck the carb and the timing. The carb i would check to make sure the main needle is not leaking and that it will reseat.
#6189
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If your talking about the spring, turn it sideways while squeezing it together then push it down in the cap, then use a small screwdriver to turn it and push it down in place.