cavandish

search g/p pitts special on the forums, there are several very good threads with a few DL/Da fitments.
I cut my standoffs down with the dremel, I then finnished them off by spinning in my drill press & appling a power file to the end (dremel will do) use a vernia to make sure they are all the same length (very important) now if nessesary tap the 5m threads a little deeper.
if you reduce the factory stand off length, You will need to cut a hole in you firwall with a suitable hole saw in order to gain enough clearance for airflow to the carb, if you have cut enough off, the carb will also sit in the hole. If you want to re seal the firwall, stick a plastic bottle/jar top over the hole on the inside, then run your throttle linkage through the plastic top.

when measuring the standard offs allow enough room

Once you see how strong and clean these engines run compared with glow, you will be glad you made the effort.

rcflyrc3

I would like to suggest that 1/4" extra length on the engine setup isn't going to amount to a hill of beans. As a matter of fact, it may help out in the balancing of your craft. These planes will generally come in a bit tail heavy, so a little forward positioning won't hurt and you won't even notice the extra protrusion

switch26

My Feedback: (1)

very good info here guys,thank you all i will see what i can do,i am having trouble choosing the right setup for this,i really like the DL 50 and would be great to get it working,i think you're all right,i should just cut the stand offs and cut the firewall for the carb clearance,besides i would still have to cut a hole in the firewall for the carb to get the proper air flow,i have a saito 300 twin coming in soon,should be here tomorrow and i do like the looks and sound of the saito but as everyone already know,the 300 twin is a nitro hungry beast,sounds great and makes tons of power for this plane but i got to think whats best for this plane and my flying style,im not too experienced with planes since i fly mostly helis,but i do fly planes as well,


i want to get more into planes since i've been doing helis for about 13 years and i feel is time to give the helis a break and get more into the planes,well anyway if i end up mounting the saito in this plane i will be geting a more capable plane,something like a QQ yak 54 or the GP yak 54 for the DL 50,i dont want to start so agresive into the planes but gradualy make my way into them,so we'll see what good comes out of all this,i do have at least half a dozen planes but nothing bigger than a 60 size plane,well hey guys thanks so much for your help and i sure wish someone with the GP 1/3 pitts special that already mounted the DL50 would share some info on how it all worked,i already did plenty of recearch and till now i have not yet heard of anyone using the DL 50 in theire pitts most of the ones i've seen are using a diferent engine

craigteffe

My Feedback: (24)

I would advise against cutting the hole in the firewall because these carbs will spit some fuel out of the intake. The fuel will soak into the wood and it makes a mess. Use the standard stand offs and do not cut the hole and let the engine stick out the front. It will be fine.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

If you don't have a 1" clearance, you will have to cut the hole in the firewall. Just seal the wood with thinned epoxy or thin CA.

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

DL will run fine with about 1/2" from the back of the carb to the firewall. You can cut a 3/4" round hole on the firewall to allow air to flow to the carb. Cover the hole with fine mesh (e.g., 1oz fiberglass cloth).

switch26

My Feedback: (1)

oh boy things keep geting worse and worse,so i guess the best thing to do is to just mount it and deal with the extra clearance gap betwin the spinners backplate and the cowl,is either that or pretty mcuh rebuild the engine box so it sticks out less to acomodate the engine

Spadkun

I'm in the UK at the moment. I picked up a mag called "Model World". There is a full page ad (one of several) from Hobby King for the DL50. Last lines reads "Coming soon, DL-50v3 & DL-100v3!"
Does anyone know what changes have been made for the V3 ???

drewbags

Haven't heard of any changes to either the 50 or 100. As far as I am aware we are still on Ver 1 for the 100 and the factory is struggling to build enough of those?!!

dlenginesaustralia

Its the same engines as previously discussed earlier in this thread. They are not DL engines but an "SV" or whatever else they are being marketed as engine being touted as a V3 DL. They are not a DL engine.

Info on this on page 68 of this thread.

There is no v3 engine at this time. And that comes from Mr Dong Lin of DL Power in China.

Cheers

switch26

My Feedback: (1)

krproton
thank you so much for sending me the PDF file for the templates Bud,i hope to get this done soon
Best Regards
Raf

krproton

You got it!

Send us some pics of your install.

Tim

switch26

My Feedback: (1)

why, of corse, as soon as i can figure out how to mount it with out hacking too much into the plane,im still having trouble with the clearance on the cowl and the spinners backplate,ill figure things out and will send some pics when im done,

thanks again buddy

jjcollett

Removed my engine today to move to another plane. Retiring the Giant Stick. When I checked to lever arm level with the "Walbro Gage" I found that my needle level was origionally in the right place. The only problem is the engine runs so much better with the lever about .020 below the recommended level. I'm going to leave it where it is but I wonder if something else is adversely influencing this adjustment.

elderair

My Feedback: (29)

Just bought one of the DL 50 engines and a 80" Katana of unknown mfg. in two separate auctions. I know several people that have more than one of these engines and wouldn't trade them for any other 50cc engine. There can be some carb problems from what I am reading. Rich mainly. Hopefully I will have good things to say about this engine. I own a DA 50R on an Aeroworks Python and do like it very much but if I can buy two of these DL's for roughly the price of one of the DA's ???? We will see.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

You won't be disappointed.

NUTNDUN

Speaking of the hobby king place, they are such a joke. I think it is the fly r/c mag I just got and they had a full page ad in there touting the same thing and their spelling is horrible. I should take a pic of it and post it. frickin hilarious.

NUTNDUN

I just got my DL today from Bob @ dlusa. I just had one question to confirm I wasn't missing anything. The carbs don't come with the idle stop screw right? I am guessing not because I would of ended up taking it out anyway, just wanted to make sure.

BTerry

My Feedback: (8)

Read the rest of the ad as well. The first few lines are an example of brilliant marketing, in my opinion. I thought it was very funny as it poked fun of language barriers/stereotypes.

cavandish

you don't just cut a hole, you fix a jar/ bottle cap over the back of the hole, this protrudes into the fuse, giving sufficent depth & a seal.
if you have a cowl, & your spinner backplate is not a snug fit with the front of that cowl, it will just look butt ugly. And as someone said, seal the bare wood with epoxy.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Both of my engines came with one. I back them off so they don't touch though.

shawn45

My Feedback: (77)

Hello guys,

I have DL50 in extra 260. The engine runs great in hi RPM but no matter what I do just can't get rid of the low end burble!!! It runs too rich on low end. It sounds good on the ground but terrible in air. I adjust the low end to the point that engine wants to quite on transition but still no help.
No my cowling is not pressurized.
On one of the threads on this forum, someone says that he has 2 of these engines and the way he manage to fix the problem is with the high end needle leaning, which I've tried and helped very little. I'm using NX 22x8, Amsoil 80-1.I understand that with these engines, you get some burble but mine is not acceptable. Any suggestion?

NUTNDUN

If they would have used a better translator or someone to proof read it before they put the ad in it could have been a great ad. They were trying to say all the right things, just that it was engrish LOL

skyleader slx

opps removed

jjcollett

Try bending the float lever down about .020 (about the equivalent of a spark plug gap). This should allow you to open your needles a little more and reduce the burble. Check my post #2461.