Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Slamn, I've had quite a few tapped prop bolts and all were just tapped Grade 8 bolts or the metric equivalent. A Grade 8 bolt is strong but not overly hard and not difficult to drill at tap at all! You're making way too much of this simple task. In the time you've been discussing this you could have had the tapped bolt in hand. Suggestion ...... get two and have a spare.

slamn sammy

Ok! :-)

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

You've never stated the bolt size as has been requested. Myself and I'm sure several other people on here reading this probably have a spare laying around they could send you .... if only we knew the size. I've sent quite a few things to people to get them out of a jam. Likewise, people have sent things to me ..... its the modelers way!

AJsToyz

Are we all talking the same thing? If the shaft has a male thread needing a nut how you going to use a threaded bolt? Unless there's a stud threaded into the crank shaft?

http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...inc=adaptmulti

AJsToyz

Ok, found a picture of the engine, I see it takes a bolt. Most of the Sachs Dolmar engines were 3/8-24 prop studs, the bolt may be the same.

slamn sammy

I don't know what size the bolt is? All I know is that the G62 bolt is to big and and the Q35-42 and the Z38 are to small. It's the next size below what ever go's in the 62? I'll fuger it out or trash it! I know it's to mush bull over a bolt that is in an engine that no one has part's for, and what will go wrong next?...... already had to replace the ignition with a C&H and now there out of business. Thank you for all your help

MTK

C&H became CH Ignitions some time ago. CHI is the same product as Bill Carpenter, C&H, used to offer. I have 3 of these, excellent products....

slamn sammy

Thanks, I did not know this, that's a good thing to know!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

+1 on the CH

slamn sammy

Hope I never need them, but! Glad there there.Thanks......

FireBee

My Feedback: (34)

TedMo, If it only runs on the prime and your screen is clean, chances are your carb throttle is backwards. Close the throttle and when you look into the carb intake, you should see the screw threads on the brass throttle valve, not the screw head. It is a common mistake on rebuilds.

FireBee

My Feedback: (34)

Hey 45Airplane, As W8ye posted I too used the Jtec muffle in my TF P-51. I have since cut about. 2 inch off the muffle exhaust tubes in case of dead stick. Don't cut much more as you need some back pressure. Some cowl cutting needed but the speed and reliability of Sachs or Brison well worth it. I have 3 warbirds with 3.2's all magneto with mechanical advance.
I have been using amzoil Saber synthetic . At 80:1 for past 3 years in all my engines. My mentor uses 90:1 for past 15 years.

slamn sammy

Well, hard case bolt + hard case bolt in bolt + brok'n drill + brok'n tap = brok'n drillbit & tap!?..... Thinking about becoming a surgen! LOL.... NEXT! OMG,ROFL ':~} Watching (Right This Minute, a Show on TV), Drinking my first cup of coffee and like Dumba** and World's Dumbist, I don't fill so bad!