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CRRC 40cc kit

Old 04-25-2013, 08:11 PM
  #826  
Flight Risk
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Default RE: CRRC 40cc kit

That's interesting about the CRRC 26cc engines. I have considered buying one since I like my 40cc so much. After I replaced the original ignition with an Rcxel it has been no problem for over 100 flights (other than it occassionally floods and and drowns the plug, but that's my fault). I really enjoyed assembling it myself. I often hear from others that such-n-such engine wasn't running so they took it apart and found sealant in the wrong places or pieces of crap everywhere. by building it yourself, you take your time and can make sure it is right. I wish other engines were sold this way.

Rod S
Old 12-09-2013, 12:52 AM
  #827  
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Hi,
Took me a while to finsih reading this thread and hope it is still alive.
some stupid questions to ask.
1. According to the instructions, needs to apply lubs on the output shaft and inside the cylinder. what's the point to put lubricant on the shaft while we want the bearing and seal to be hold in place?
2. what lubricant to use?

Thanks
Old 12-09-2013, 03:21 AM
  #828  
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I'm here its alive. Ask away. I have built 3 of them
Old 12-09-2013, 03:25 AM
  #829  
warbird72
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The lube is so the engine doesn't dry fire. I use standard assembly lube. Napa carries it. Its aka cam assembly lube. Just a small amount will do ya.
Old 12-09-2013, 03:59 AM
  #830  
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yea, thanks. I wil get the engine assembly lube, loctitle 603 and red thread locker from auto zone tomorrow.

i understand to lube inside the cylinder but why on the shaft?
Old 12-09-2013, 06:15 AM
  #831  
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It makes everything slid together with ease.
Old 12-09-2013, 06:18 AM
  #832  
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I use yama bond. On the crank case only. Go to the Yamaha shop. Little pricy but woth it. I don't use lock tight on the case or head bolts. That to me just causes threading problems. In the event of needing a tear down.
Old 12-09-2013, 06:23 AM
  #833  
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jB5...e_gdata_player. My christen eagle. Crrc kit 40cc
Old 12-09-2013, 12:11 PM
  #834  
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Can you make that video public? I am being blocked.
Old 12-09-2013, 12:46 PM
  #835  
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Its working. If you just go to youtube and type in christen eagle it should come up!!
Old 12-09-2013, 04:17 PM
  #836  
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Link should work now.
Old 12-10-2013, 09:25 AM
  #837  
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Got it. That's a good looking plane. I have a Skyshark Christen that has a cracked canopy. I never finished assembling it. I may attempt making a home made canopy this winter and get it in the air.
Old 12-10-2013, 10:34 AM
  #838  
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That's what that is to.
Old 12-10-2013, 06:53 PM
  #839  
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Thought it was the Skyshark. Just right for a 40cc.
Old 12-11-2013, 02:49 AM
  #840  
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Hope your correct lol. Its almost 17 lbs! I did swap out the plug to a cm6. Runs like a top.
Old 12-11-2013, 03:57 PM
  #841  
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Warbird72, thanks for the info and video.
I have just finished putting the engine together. I end up used red loctite on all bolts, since, there is no yamaha shop in my area.
After I put the spark plug in, the compression inside the engine is very strong. Its really hard to rotate the shaft by hands with no prop on it.
I will be using RCexcel Ignition with the original CRRC sensor, just want to see if that works before doing further mods on the sensor.
Just waiting for the prop to be arrived and I will run it on a test stand.
Old 12-11-2013, 11:08 PM
  #842  
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how do you guys install the crab?

I think it would make more sense to put the crab with the H L needles facing up.
But the pic on the instruction shows they are facing down.
Old 12-12-2013, 07:35 AM
  #843  
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In general we like carbs that are easy to get the linkage to. Because no two airplanes are alike, it is good to have an engine where the carb is flexible to the end user.

The critical point of carb direction is crankcase pressure pulse to run the fuel pump section. If the carb receives its pulse from an external hose and nipple or the insullator bliock provides pulse in both positions, the carb can go either direction.

If the carb receives its pulse through the insullator block but does not receive the pulse in both positions, then the carb must be installed so the pulse lines up or you can modify the pulse to pump.

I hope this helps

Last edited by kmeyers; 12-12-2013 at 07:47 AM.
Old 12-12-2013, 03:17 PM
  #844  
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Thanks for the info. Is there any engine model in you mind which can give me as examples for the 2?
There is always something new to learn everyday. : )
Old 12-12-2013, 03:26 PM
  #845  
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Just tested it today with a RCexcel ignition, it won't start. After inspection, it was the ignition getting misfire.
Its a brand new ignition. (Rcexl Single Ignition for NGK-BPMR6F-14MM 90 Degree) I suppose it is the matching ignition that I need??

Anyway, I plugged the stock CRRC ignition instead and it runs.
However, the engine gets SUPER hot after 3 mins of running at idle to half throttle with a 19x8 prop.
Any idea?

I am waiting for it to cool down and try again.

Thanks
Old 12-12-2013, 06:42 PM
  #846  
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After further testings, I believe that the Rcecl ignition just won't work with the stock CRRC Hall Sensor and caused the misfire.
I will have to made a sensor mount for the Rcecl sensor then.

But still, the engine gets really hot after even 1 minute of idle running which I cannot hold it with bare hands.
any suggestions?

I guess will need to do more research tonight, really want to learn more and its fun. That's part of the hobby. : )

Thanks
Old 12-13-2013, 08:13 AM
  #847  
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A friend asked me to check a CRRC 26 he had that ran poorly and I found the ignition timing set at about 55* BTDC. I slotted the sensor mounting tabs so I could set the timing at 28* BTDC and the engine runs perfect.
Always check timing in the engine running direction CCW from the front.
Old 12-14-2013, 11:08 AM
  #848  
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub8pQNOCmKY&feature=youtube_gdata_player It's missing some sparks. Any idea?
Thanks
Old 12-14-2013, 07:14 PM
  #849  
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I would make sure the sensor is pretty close to the magnet without touching. Too far and it won't always trigger a spark.
Old 12-14-2013, 07:54 PM
  #850  
winterdd
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Yea. It's very close , a hair line without touching the magnet.

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