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"Dry Carb" Restarting

Old 05-25-2009, 03:09 PM
  #26  
soarrich
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ORIGINAL: Bob Pastorello

how to get an injector tube fabricated to an external dot for squirting gas into the carb venturi. But would that get it past the reed bank???
Put a "T" in the pressure pulse line going to a fuel dot.
Old 05-25-2009, 03:14 PM
  #27  
Bob Pastorello
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You've done this, RIch? And it puts fuel through the carb to "prime"?
Old 05-25-2009, 03:19 PM
  #28  
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NO, I was thinking you wanted to get the prime past the induction reeds to get a prime into the engine.
Old 05-25-2009, 03:23 PM
  #29  
liquid_TR
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65 amp car battery OK? thats what I keep at my field shed. got sick of those puny 7amp UPS batteries.
Old 05-25-2009, 03:44 PM
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Default RE:

Bob maybe a person could put a "T" in the pulse line and run a line to a fuel dot. If it runs OK you have an instant way to shoot fuel into the reeds.
Old 05-25-2009, 03:50 PM
  #31  
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Darn it Rich. I didn't see the next page, you beat me to the punch. 
Old 05-26-2009, 09:37 AM
  #32  
WRK
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The T in the pulse line sounds like a good thing to try, let us know if it works!
Old 05-26-2009, 10:01 AM
  #33  
Tom in Cincy
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Default RE:

I had the same problem but no more. I carry a can of starting fluid with me. If you can get to the carb great. If not spray into the muffler. This will get the engine going enough to prime the pump. All the gasser guys at the field have tried this. It works.
Old 05-26-2009, 11:37 AM
  #34  
mrbigg
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And it works good. Been doing it for years. Recommended it earlier.  Nobody seems to listen though. They can keep wearing out their arms or waste their time taking the cowl off.
Old 05-26-2009, 11:51 AM
  #35  
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A guy just posted a neat idea over in the "Conversions" forum. He uses a large syringe hooked to a tube running to the primer port on the carb. He uses the syringe to draw fuel through the carb just as the original primer bulb did on the engine. He says that he then starts the engine and if necessary uses the now half full syringe to inject fuel into the engine as needed to keep it running. When everything is all wet and working well, he unhooks the syringe, caps the line, and he's done. Pretty neat idea I think.

Sorry guys, I just can't go with the starting fluid idea. That poor engine has been sitting and most the oil has probably drained off its internals. Then start it with a super dry shot of ether?? Not my engines. I've seen lots of chain saw engines damaged this way. Just my opinion though...



AV8TOR

Old 05-26-2009, 01:20 PM
  #36  
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Everytime I start an engine with ether, it smokes blue, oil smoke right away. No damage is being done.

Old 05-26-2009, 07:57 PM
  #37  
Jake Ruddy
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The oil is not going to evaporate from the cylinder walls.
Old 05-26-2009, 08:20 PM
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Most starting ether has lubricating oil in it.
Old 05-26-2009, 08:24 PM
  #39  
RC Extreme power
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Default RE:

The one thing I do is never empty the fuel tank or take the fuel out of the line to the carb, i have had engines set for months and start right up after I remove the old fuel and put in new,

 I have seen a lot of people actually run there carb dry after flying and think I am nuts when I suggest that they not do it.

Milton
Old 05-26-2009, 08:25 PM
  #40  
Jake Ruddy
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Actually, you make a good point.  There is one in my group of flying buddies who runs his dry all the time. I can't understand it.



I have never done that and usually have a small amount of fuel left in my tanks.

Old 05-26-2009, 08:28 PM
  #41  
Bob Pastorello
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I don't run them out dry. I also store them nose down, so the fuel line/klunk in the tank is in free air inside the tank, and vent is open. So maybe the "check valve" will keep fuel in the carb between runs, even storing standing on it's nose. Interesting stuff.
Old 05-26-2009, 08:29 PM
  #42  
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ORIGINAL: gkamysz

Most starting ether has lubricating oil in it.
I remember one guy writing he uses WD-40 as a starting fluid. I've never tried it, but when the guy wrote that others said it works.
Old 05-26-2009, 08:37 PM
  #43  
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Default RE:

Carb cleaner works to, the problem with using anything for starter fluid is the possibility blowing out a plug or the cylinder jug off the engine.

Remember when i was in the service and it was about 20 below we could not get a diesel truck to start and i think we use a little to much starter fluid, blew the head right off that engine, Of course we had no idea what caused  it when we were asked.

Milton


Old 05-26-2009, 08:41 PM
  #44  
Bob Pastorello
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Interesting stuff.....so we could inject horse urine into the things and they'd prime, no doubt. Coleman fuel, lighter fluid, probably charcoal lighter fluid, just about anything....but the original question is still there..... HOW do we get whatever we are injecting INTO the carb???? No cowl removing or that other stuff......
Old 05-26-2009, 08:47 PM
  #45  
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Bob how 'bout we go back to the old way of doing things and use shot gun cartridges to spin em over
Old 05-26-2009, 08:53 PM
  #46  
Bob Pastorello
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Really? I had to hand-prop my T-Craft BC-12D....the C-65 (may have been A-65 Continental, now that I'm recalling the below freezing multiple prop through thatwore my shoulder out LONGbefore gasser RC airplanes)....
Old 05-26-2009, 09:14 PM
  #47  
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Friend of mine from work had one back around '81. He dropped in on us when we were out flying our models one day and took me up for a while. I was the envy of everyone at the field that day.  He ended up selling it and got into ultralights. He still has one.
Old 05-26-2009, 11:03 PM
  #48  
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ORIGINAL: Bob Pastorello

Interesting stuff.....so we could inject horse urine into the things and they'd prime, no doubt. Coleman fuel, lighter fluid, probably charcoal lighter fluid, just about anything....but the original question is still there..... HOW do we get whatever we are injecting INTO the carb???? No cowl removing or that other stuff......
This may work
I can offer you something to try. First make sure the main fuel inlet line comming from the tankis hooked to the inlet that isopposite side of the adjustment screws. Then attatch a 2" line to thebrassfuel tubethat exits near the adjustmentneedles. Using a syringe you will hook that to the 2" piece of fuel tubing that exits near the adjustment screws. Pull the syringe out which willdraw fuel from the tank and thru the carb and up into the syringe. Nowusing the syringe you will push just a bit of thefuel back into thecarb,but leavingthe syringe about half full. Nowyou should be able to start the engine and keep feeding the engine with the syringe to keep it running. The idea is to get the gas and oil to soften up the diapram and seals until it starts pumping fuel on its own inthe event that your carb was just really dry from sittng for an extended period of time.This is also the same method I use to prime my engine since thecarb is in aspot that is tough to getto. The primer line works great. I also had to use this method to help keep my engine runningwhen I started my Ryobi the first time as an airplane engine and had to do major adjustments. Just something you may want to try to see if your carb will start to pull its own fuel after you assist it a couple times with the syringe


Old 05-27-2009, 06:19 AM
  #49  
gkamysz
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ORIGINAL: soarrich

I remember one guy writing he uses WD-40 as a starting fluid. I've never tried it, but when the guy wrote that others said it works.
Yes the engine will fire on WD-40. Even a glow engine. I wore out an Enya .29 in a few starts like that when I was a kid screwing around with it. WD-40 is a poor lubricant. Until recently, you couldn't find the word lubricant on the can.

Old 05-31-2009, 10:07 AM
  #50  
Bob Pastorello
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Wikipedia Reference; "Starting Fluid" - Two strokes -Starting fluid is not recommended for two-stroke engines, because it has no lubricating qualities. The lubricating oil for these engines is mixed with the fuel. There is also a risk of igniting the mixture in the crankcase. WD-40 is recommended for use on two stroke engines because it has lubricating qualities.

Still no "solutions" out here???

Very interesting....

Then THIS - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40 about various qualities of WD40.

More interesting....

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