Saito - Pro FG 14 Tips and tricks only!!!
#255
Senior Member
Pete
#256
thank pete
it is broken in . it is not very rich. just 500 rpm rich.
i try to clean , but just start for seconds then die and did not start at all....
so i should change the plug..
it is broken in . it is not very rich. just 500 rpm rich.
i try to clean , but just start for seconds then die and did not start at all....
so i should change the plug..
#257
Senior Member
500 rpms is pretty rich in the gas world, and couple that with the rich gas/oil ratio and that is where the fouling is coming from. and the fouling is a cumulative process so it doesn't happen overnight. Try this method for setting your needle.
1. Set the high speed needle just lean enough that the engine no longer mis-fires on the ground. You should take some time with this and let the engine run for 20 seconds or more to wait for a mis fire.
2. Fly the airplane. If the engine starts to mis in the air then it is still a bit on the rich side so land and turn in the hi speed needle 2 clicks. Take off and check the results.
3. Continue this until the engine does not mis-fire in the air. You are at the perfect needle setting for your local conditions and prop loads. If anything drastically changes (air temperature, prop load, etc) the repeat this procedure. Beyond these changes you should not see any appreciable need to touch the high speed needle. If there is a sudden need to change the high speed needle setting without the drastic changes I mentioned above then I would look for a mechanical reason for the change (i.e., fuel filter clogged, fuel line has a hole in it, plug fouled, etc.)
Pete
1. Set the high speed needle just lean enough that the engine no longer mis-fires on the ground. You should take some time with this and let the engine run for 20 seconds or more to wait for a mis fire.
2. Fly the airplane. If the engine starts to mis in the air then it is still a bit on the rich side so land and turn in the hi speed needle 2 clicks. Take off and check the results.
3. Continue this until the engine does not mis-fire in the air. You are at the perfect needle setting for your local conditions and prop loads. If anything drastically changes (air temperature, prop load, etc) the repeat this procedure. Beyond these changes you should not see any appreciable need to touch the high speed needle. If there is a sudden need to change the high speed needle setting without the drastic changes I mentioned above then I would look for a mechanical reason for the change (i.e., fuel filter clogged, fuel line has a hole in it, plug fouled, etc.)
Pete
#259
Senior Member
Because of the small size of the plug a typical wire brush treatment doesn't really work like it does on larger (10mm and above) sized plugs. I have found it best to scrape off any accumulated carbon with an xacto knife from all the external areas. If there is a large buildup of carbon on the interior of the plug I really don't have a good method for getting that clean yet. Anybody else have a good method for this?
Pete
Pete
#264
Ok. After i flight during taxing the engine stoped. I tried to start but it doesnt fire at all
I try to clean the plug then it started and run for 30 sec
I chang plug evrything was ok . Start easily . Run good
I try to clean the plug then it started and run for 30 sec
I chang plug evrything was ok . Start easily . Run good
#265
I think the ceramic in plug may crack..? because i clean tip and electrode , i can see spark , but when installed in engine it dose not start , when plug changed start easily ,
so it is not foul problem it is plug problem .
so it is not foul problem it is plug problem .
#266
Senior Member
Pete
#267
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I have just ordered one of these engines for a Goldberg anniversary cub which I think will be a good fit.
I gather from this thread that a couple of low micron fuel filters are a must for this carb, along with a felt clunk and viton tubing in the tank, as well as tank placement is key here with this engine.
Not to mention a good break-in, and patience setting the needles.
Should I run this on 0% ethanol fuel? Or will regular pump gas be fine?
I gather from this thread that a couple of low micron fuel filters are a must for this carb, along with a felt clunk and viton tubing in the tank, as well as tank placement is key here with this engine.
Not to mention a good break-in, and patience setting the needles.
Should I run this on 0% ethanol fuel? Or will regular pump gas be fine?
#268
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tuchenbach, GERMANY
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Hi all,
got my first gallon through the engine now and am very happy with this little motor.
Running fine, turning a APC 14x6 at 9000 on ground giving plenty of thrust to my Phoenix 185 which is same as the Cessna 195.
Had the motor built in a Sig Sun Dancer first, but this was no good, because air flow was quite bad within this boxer cowl. The motor ran way to hot (150 ° Celsius) even after I milled away nearly half of the cowl. Running under bad air flow means overheat and loss of RPM as well as impossible adjustment on the needles.
So mounted it into a VQ Texan next. The Texan has a real huge cowl (radial engine) and perfect air flow was easy to achieve. Ran much better, but the plane did not taxi straight, even with fixed gear and gyro on rudder. Way to risky for my precious Saito.
Finally, this engine ended up in the big cowl of that Phoenix Cessna giving me tons of fun. Although I'm mainly a aerobatic freak.
My basic lessons learned on that sensible missy of a motor:
- Needs really a lot of cool air flow so go the extra mile for best air flow.
- Carb tends to lean out engine in the air when peaked too hot on the ground. So lean the main needle just a little above sputtering (8500 RPM @ Apc 14x6). Gives 9000 in the air.
- Besides full throttle and idle position, you may need a switch on the transmitter to go to "throttle completely closed" position. This helps getting pumping fuel from the tank on first start. Same effect is your thumb on the air intake if you can reach it.
Sound is great, smells fine. Who wants to fly electric?
Bye
Tobias
got my first gallon through the engine now and am very happy with this little motor.
Running fine, turning a APC 14x6 at 9000 on ground giving plenty of thrust to my Phoenix 185 which is same as the Cessna 195.
Had the motor built in a Sig Sun Dancer first, but this was no good, because air flow was quite bad within this boxer cowl. The motor ran way to hot (150 ° Celsius) even after I milled away nearly half of the cowl. Running under bad air flow means overheat and loss of RPM as well as impossible adjustment on the needles.
So mounted it into a VQ Texan next. The Texan has a real huge cowl (radial engine) and perfect air flow was easy to achieve. Ran much better, but the plane did not taxi straight, even with fixed gear and gyro on rudder. Way to risky for my precious Saito.
Finally, this engine ended up in the big cowl of that Phoenix Cessna giving me tons of fun. Although I'm mainly a aerobatic freak.
My basic lessons learned on that sensible missy of a motor:
- Needs really a lot of cool air flow so go the extra mile for best air flow.
- Carb tends to lean out engine in the air when peaked too hot on the ground. So lean the main needle just a little above sputtering (8500 RPM @ Apc 14x6). Gives 9000 in the air.
- Besides full throttle and idle position, you may need a switch on the transmitter to go to "throttle completely closed" position. This helps getting pumping fuel from the tank on first start. Same effect is your thumb on the air intake if you can reach it.
Sound is great, smells fine. Who wants to fly electric?
Bye
Tobias
#269
#271
i finally change my spark plug & mixture (not rich) and my fg 14 gets better . but i have another issue engine work perfect with lipo 800 mah battery but missed fire on t with li ion 900 mah ?
dose anyone the same problem? or idea?
dose anyone the same problem? or idea?
#272
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tuchenbach, GERMANY
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Hi all,
have some more flights on my Cessna now and found one way to make daily tuning of FG-14 needles easier.
I found the engine being set perfectly one day but on next day, I had to fiddle on needles again during the first flights. For the rest of that day, engine ran great. This repeated day by day.
Did this for some weeks now but was not very amused as it reminded me of earlier methanol fiddling times.
So I started to count clicks of high speed needle from well working position down to completely screwed in after every flying day. And I found out, that independent from needle fiddling at first flights of the day, the finally well working needle position was nearly the same every day.
Knowing this, I noted every needle adjustment and found out a similar behavior of the engine from day to day: at the beginning of the flying day, the engine runs to lean at high speed on the ground. This is independent to warm up time. So I re-adjusted to rich. After starting the first flight, within the first minutes, the engine delivers full RPM at WOT and this seems perfectly tuned. After some minutes of flying, engine behaves more and more rich. Maximum RPM goes down. So I usually landed and re-adjusted to lean. From flight to fight, always one click leaner. After approx. 5 clicks, engine settled in tuning and runs great the rest of the day.
During the last flying days I established a well working procedure: after putting together the plane first time of the day on the flying field, I rich up the high speed needle to 5 clicks before first start. Then I do my first flight ignoring cuffing and sputtering at WOT. After that flight I lean the needle back 4 clicks, try a WOT run on ground. If the engine reaches max RPM on ground (8800 to 9000), needle setup is ok. If still sputtering a little bit at for example @ 8600, one more lean click, then it usually works.
Doing so, I had no problems anymore.
As I have 150 grams of ballast in the front, I seriously think about installing a high speed needle servo to tune engine during flight.
I have 5 hours of operating time on that saito now and I am really happy with that engine. I am happy to had you all keeping me motivated and telling me patience on that engine - it was worth it.
Bye
Tobias
have some more flights on my Cessna now and found one way to make daily tuning of FG-14 needles easier.
I found the engine being set perfectly one day but on next day, I had to fiddle on needles again during the first flights. For the rest of that day, engine ran great. This repeated day by day.
Did this for some weeks now but was not very amused as it reminded me of earlier methanol fiddling times.
So I started to count clicks of high speed needle from well working position down to completely screwed in after every flying day. And I found out, that independent from needle fiddling at first flights of the day, the finally well working needle position was nearly the same every day.
Knowing this, I noted every needle adjustment and found out a similar behavior of the engine from day to day: at the beginning of the flying day, the engine runs to lean at high speed on the ground. This is independent to warm up time. So I re-adjusted to rich. After starting the first flight, within the first minutes, the engine delivers full RPM at WOT and this seems perfectly tuned. After some minutes of flying, engine behaves more and more rich. Maximum RPM goes down. So I usually landed and re-adjusted to lean. From flight to fight, always one click leaner. After approx. 5 clicks, engine settled in tuning and runs great the rest of the day.
During the last flying days I established a well working procedure: after putting together the plane first time of the day on the flying field, I rich up the high speed needle to 5 clicks before first start. Then I do my first flight ignoring cuffing and sputtering at WOT. After that flight I lean the needle back 4 clicks, try a WOT run on ground. If the engine reaches max RPM on ground (8800 to 9000), needle setup is ok. If still sputtering a little bit at for example @ 8600, one more lean click, then it usually works.
Doing so, I had no problems anymore.
As I have 150 grams of ballast in the front, I seriously think about installing a high speed needle servo to tune engine during flight.
I have 5 hours of operating time on that saito now and I am really happy with that engine. I am happy to had you all keeping me motivated and telling me patience on that engine - it was worth it.
Bye
Tobias
#273
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My fg-14b dies frequently at full throttle. I have both needles set at factory specified settings. I have the engine mounted sideways and get a small puddle of gas sitting on the carb around the high speed needle valve. I cannot figure out where the leak is. The brass threaded needle tube seems tight. I wonder if this is my problem. Any help?