DLE-35RA Issue
 

DLE 35RA
Tech-aero IBEC (unregulated, powered by an A123)


32:1 Amsoil Dominator / 91 Octane (Highest octane available here)


NGK CM6 .025gap


Hi all.


Received this engine last week from a distributor here in Canada.


I've had a few issues with hard starting and now I am having an problem with


the engine not coming down to an idle for 15-20 seconds after the throttle is


closed. It seems to "hang" at a certain rpm and then it will come down to an


normal speed. I've been flying and tinkering with gassers for about 3 years and


this is the first time I have expirenced such an issue.


It does this at the stock needle settings, and I have tried tuning it out of the


engine with no success. Only way I can reduce the time, is to richen the low to


an excessive amount, and then it has no choice but to come down to an idle


because its starting to flood itself out.




Any insight is much appreciated.




Shane.

Shane, you’re not alone. Some of those DLE’s can be a PIA and my friend has one also. He has rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the ignition with a CH version, changed the spark plug and inspected the reeds. His problem is a little different than yours. The only thing he has not done is replace the carb with a Walbro. If nothing works for you, try changing the carb. Dan.

What is his doing?

Both hard starting and the dreaded "high idle hang" can be directly attributable to lean low speed settings - just as you've witnessed. It will not flood itself out if you richen a little at a time until the hang issues diminish to the point you can handle them or disappear completely - then reset your idle speed so it's reliable. Set this way you'll find it won't stall on short final or right after touch down near as often?

The engines do not run like a Cadillac V-8 when they're right. It should be slightly uneven on idle. It's a 2 stroke single. That's the way they all run!

After about a minute in flight, it does not happen on the ground, the engine has the symptom of running rich for a while. Then it runs all right and then back to rich or even richer. About the only thing left to do is to change the carburetor. Dan.

It will flood itself out because I have to turn the needle out nearly 2.5 turns before the hang goes away, oil smoke is pouring out of the exhaust at this setting.

I would try to lean HSN,richen LSN and trimming down the butterfly valve(throttle) some little with very small trying each time.

The OP has posted this exact question, "verbatum", on another site. Not that there is anything wrong with that but has now been given basically the same answer. Adjustments need to be made on these engines about 1/8 turn max per adjustment beginning at about 1 1/2 turns on both needles. High end first for peak then low end for transition and high end again. I feel this engine is just not properly tuned from the getgo and he needs some major help in doing so. That's just my opinion.

Actually a friend of mine called a DLE rep and was told the ignitions are timed that way. Every Dle I have and all the ones at the field are like that, theres nothing wrong it was made that way to help the engine from dying during some menuevers. I didn't say this, my friend was told this so don't come back and bash me on this.

+1 I had this same issue with my dle 20. It took some tuning and about 2 gallons before it got better. I also opened up the spark plug gap to help with the midrange tuning. But my 35 has been flawless. I closed and reset the nettles to 1.5 turns out and slightly adjusted from there. I have about 3 gallons through it and will tune it slightly again before winter. Good luck, I love mine. Hand starts easy. BTW Have you soldered the hole closed on the choke butterfly? It helps it to draw fuel quicker.

I don't need help tuning my engine pamster. I have a dle 55.. da 85 and had an dle 30 ... now this engine all of which I have successfully been able to get running perfect all except this new dle 35. It seems like you think I am an total idiot. Not the case.. and there's nothing wrong with getting different opinions on two different forums that is why they exist.

That motor aint got any time on it yet. It will get better. My 35 when new was impossible to start by hand and a pain to tune. Couple of gallons of fuel later and needle tweakin it runs like a raped ape. Yours will get there. Youre not the only one to have this problem....Flying Giants has a long thread on the 35 and guys havin the same scenario.

Yep, 2.5 turns is likely not good. The fact you are able to drown it like that does testify to the fact your fuel passages are all open though?

The 'high idle hang' is caused by a hot combustion chamber. Nothing else will do that. The engine is actually in a 'run away' condition, and will stay that way until it cools off. Normally, you can cool that combustion chamber down tossing fuel into it using a fat low speed mixture, but if that's not working out for you, you can go after the reason the combustion chamber is so hot? Maybe the high speed mixture? Could be a too small prop? Engine sucking air somewhere? Try running minus the cowl? If you can rule those issues out, is the engine still under warranty?

I like the plan of starting over from step one with a solid tune starting from 1.5 turns high and low. It costs nothing but a little time.

For others having trouble with that hang, if you have a DLE 20 - there is that timing issue which is very similar, but that's on 20's only. No other module has timing issues. Period.

Hi,

check whether the ignition is #4 or A-03? Just in case

Ameyam

Aha!!! I just had a similar problem with my 20. After nonstop tuning, replumbing , cleaning the carb, and the biggest headache I found my problem. The black plastic nipple where you hook the line from the tank was leaking air. After the engine warmed up it would exhibit the same problem as yours. Inside the plastic nipple there's a brass tube that is press fit in the carb. The engine heats up, the metal expands and leaks air, and leans out, your headache begins. I changed mine out from an old carb I had, carefully sealed with A little ca and it worked! I did order a new carb and found out the old one was discontinued. No problems since then, but if it happens again I know where to look.

My 30 was a pain for the first 10 flights or so. Hard start, hard to find the right needle setting, etc..etc.. Now 20+ flights in it is a joy. Easy to fire, very reliable, and great throttle response.
BTW it does not do what you are describing and never has.


david

My apologies Shane. I meant no disrespect. I have no way of knowing the extent of your experience when you post a question. I was only trying to help. Perhaps I could have done or said it better.
I still feel that this is a tune and/or break in issue. I hope you do figure it out and share your results with everyone.

No problem, Sorry for the snarky reply, I literally had just woke up and seen your post on my phone.

Anyhow, borrowed a carb from a friend to try, and it doesn't have this idle problem once I tuned it in... So the problem is with my carb, somewhere, air leak.. or what, I don't know, perhaps I'll get a can of ether and see if I can find a leak.

Awesome Shane. These problems can be frustrating. At least you have isolated it to an area. Keep us posted.

Wow, what two gentlemen. It is rare to see this behavior on these forums.
I applaud you guys, apology and apology accepted. More people in here need to learn from you.
Now I had the same problem with my DLE 30cc. I solved really quick...........


I SOLD IT

It was only one gentleman and me. One lady. One of the few in the hobby. No need to apologize for not knowing that. I actually thought you knew me, sort of, already as I have been here for awhile.
The Pamster is me aka Pamela.

Selling the problem away is one way to do it. Lol.

Well tonight's little project was to disassemble, ultrasonic bath my carb, and install a fresh walbro kit, and no dice , same issue!

I may have to chalk it up to an carb with gremlins and order a new carb when they come back in stock from the supplier.

I have a DLE35 plus a few guys at the field have the same motor with similar behavior. We both discovered that lean the high needle then rich till 200 rmp drops . Lean the low till throttle transition is good. Do this two additional times and all the issues went away. We also both purchased the Tach from Hobbyking to assist with the adjustment. It was driving me crazy at first till I did the procedure as described. Good luck and hope it helps resolve your issue.

Oops, I sincerely apologize Pam, here in Fl I've seen ladies flying but mostly foamy park fliers.
if you are flying gassers my hat is off to you. You are one of us.
Again accept my apologies.:rolleyes:

No apology was needed, but thank you. And yes I do fly gassers.
I just assume when people see my handle they see the "Pam" link and know me as a lady. It has been a nickname of mine for most of my life.