EME 30-35cc onboard starter
 

I've been wishing for one of these ever since I put an EME starter on a DLE 55. They're finally here! I got this one just a couple of days after ordering it from Magnum RC. After answering some questions, Gus at Magnum RC took my order over the phone. I put it on a DLE35RA. Installation is straightforward and nearly identical to the 55-60cc version. The only difference is that the 30-35cc starter uses the original woodruff key on the crankshaft instead of the custom one on the 55-60cc starter. Here are the photos. I measured before and after and the starter adds 1/8" to the O/A length of the engine. As soon as I get the wiring done, I'll measure the current draw and post the results.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1982315http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1982316http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1982312http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1982313http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1982314

Hey Mike, looks great! They really made it pretty with the red anodizing! Yes, people will be interested in the current draw and the weight also. Great post and pics!

Got the wiring done and set up the radio. In deference to my neighbors, I only cranked the engine. I left the ignition off so that it wouldn't actually start and make a bunch of noise. (I live in an apartment) I connected a Watts Up meter in series between the battery and the starter-controller. The Watts Up only records PEAK current. With the engine set right up against compression, the starter hesitated for a brief moment (less than a second) driving the engine through compression. Once through, it spun the engine with authority. The current peaked at 52 amps. I then tried it again with the engine turned backwards to compression in order to give the starter a "running start" at compression. This time the current peaked at 22 amps. I repeated these tests multiple times and the results never varied by more than 2 amps. I used the controller that Magnum RC sells on their website and it never even got warm. The battery I used is a Turnigy 25-35C 2200mah 3S LiPo that I had for my 450 helis. On the 55cc starter, this battery gives a couple of hundred starts between charges. With the receiver turned off, the controller draws 30 mah while plugged in to the starter battery. Even over the course of a long day at the field, this would only be a 250-300 mah drain, certainly not enough to matter. You just have to remember to unplug it at the end of the day when you remove the wing, lest you over-discharge and ruin your LiPo. (Ask me how I know) More pics.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1982340http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1982341

Now, here's the rub. The bolts that hold the prop to the hub are larger in diameter than the original DLE bolts.They are, in fact, the same size as the ones used on the DLE55. This creates several problems. When drilling props with a jig, the jig is set up for the smaller dia. bolt holes. That means after you drill the prop with the jig, the jig must be removed in order to re-drill the holes to the larger size. The "pre-drilled" spinners also must have the holes enlarged, making their use on a stock engine questionable at best. And finally, the single-bolt prop adaptors that are available for the 30/35cc bolt pattern won't work with the starter, either, due to their use of countersunk bolts and a lack of room for larger bolt heads. I am contemplating drilling a new set of holes in the prop hub between the existing holes and tapping them for the original smaller size. Perhaps the U.S. distributor can persuade the factory to reduce the size of the holes? Maybe Mike at MileHighRC will chime in. While this issue is not a deal-breaker, it is most certainly a P.I.T.A. and something to be aware of.

The starters are great, there is a solution to this as well. There exists the EME drilling jig. It has the bolt pattern for the EME 55/60cc as well as the pattern for the EME 35cc pattern. This EME 35cc pattern is now what your DLE 35RA uses now. The pattern is smaller than the 55cc pattern.

I never said the PATTERN was wrong, it is the same as the DLE 30/35 engines. It's the DIAMETERS of the bolts and holes that are larger. I have a Miracle brand drill jig that is identical to the one you describe, and it works fine.

It might be best to dispense with the single bolt prop adapter when using the starter. The adapter will add another 3/16" to the length of the engine on top of the 3/8" that the starter already adds. That might make it impossible to fit the engine in a 30cc cowl without the prop to cowl distance being huge.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1982440

Mike, Nice install looks good. On the bolts it just comes down to being an EME made starter. The EME 35 uses the bigger diameter bolts (M5) so it makes sense that they would use the same bolt size for the starter. If it were a DLE made starter the smaller diameter bolt would make sense.

Some general FYI for folks reading about the starter. Some sticky grease on the gears is an absolute must!!! Never run it with out a prop installed it needs a load or the gear teeth can and probably will chip or disappear faster then you can say, abracadabra. As Mike said the bolt pattern is the same but the EME uses a bigger diameter bolt so DLE users will need to chase the existing DLE holes for the bigger bolt. The optional EME controller has a fail safe where it cuts power to the starter after 1.5 seconds, this prevents the gas motor from creating carnage in case the switch is left on. However brushed ESC's, servo operated switches, relays, etc.. are all good choices as well so the controller is not a required item.

I have been a member here for 9-10 years... Just now getting around to my first post... What a slacker..

Thanks, Mike. Those bigger bolts make sense now. Never occurred to me that the EME engines used a different size. As for the single-bolt adapter, I'll probably just drill and tap a second set of holes in the hub for it. The warbird that this starter will end up in has a radial cowl, so the 1/8" added length (not 3/8") won't really matter. All of my DLE's have the single-bolt adapter and I've become spoiled. The props for this starter are the first props I've drilled in over a year. Good thing I kept my drill jig!

One more thing, Mike. There would seem to be more than enough different ways to screw up the installation and/or operation of these starters as to justify SOMEONE writing a comprehensive instruction manual. Someone with a financial stake in it, as decent manuals are neither quick nor easy to produce. The starter will eventually find it's way into my KMP Bearcat. The P-47 behind it already has one on it's DLE55.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1982471

I would be very interested in one of these starter units for a DLE 20cc.

Me too! The problem as I see it would lie in making such a starter light and compact enough, yet still able to crank the engine. Brushless would seem to be mandatory in order to have any chance of success. 20cc-size scale cowlings tend to be pretty tight, too. Weight would be the biggest problem, I think, because the starters don't scale down as much as engine power does when going to a smaller engine size. A look at the weights of the 55-60cc starter and the 30-35cc one will confirm this. A self-starting 20cc would be really nice, but hardly worth it if the airplane can't get out of it's own way. Maybe in a Cub, but a warbird is another matter altogether. I think it is possible, but only at a higher level of technology than that exhibited by the EME products.

DLE 30 starter

I bought one too.
I was going to ask what the short standoffs are for, but looking at the pics , they are for the dle30/35 the long ones are used for the eme 35 (which I'm using)
I found a fault in the brushed motor on mine, the brush mounts hadn't been crimped to the black housing on one side, so they were flopping around,an easy fix, but a few may not have noticed it.
Getting it all lined up and running true was a bit of work but it appears to be ok.
I haven't done the final fitting of the prop bolt yet, what would be the best thread locker for that?

One other thing, make sure you set the timing before you fit one of these, as you don't have access to the screws for the sensor once it is fitted.

Sorry, typo. Meant 1/8".

3136: I always use blue thread locker, But I know guys that use red, also.

Do these starters have a bendix? or does the starter motor continue to turn after electric power is turned off after engine starting?

They use a sprag clutch (one-way bearing) in the center of the gear on the crankshaft. Once the engine starts, the gears cease to turn.

never mind

No they do not come.preloaded with grease. Gets messy installing a starter that is already greased.

:o Thank you for the info Mike

The grease is critical, but even with the proper grease mine still stripped the gear teeth in about 5 starts. It seemed the engine kicked back and the teeth came off easily.

Hi, yes, I saw your post in the P-47 thread...I'm trying to gauge whether issues like that are an anomaly of something that is a recurring problem. Two things I gather are critical: backlash and grease. Was yours installed on motor when purchased?

Thank you :)

Does 35cc, 55cc, 60cc have the same issues? the 55cc and 35cc are different starters too if I recall correctly.... does this only happen with EME or DLE engines too? lots of ?????

https://toni-clark-shop.com/Kolm-EZ-77V3_1

https://toni-clark-shop.com/navi.php?a=2119&lang=eng

I also have a G62 NIB with EI... so a starter exists for it but $$$$$ !!.... as we can see from the links, could there be a better way to mfg the starter?? or is that even an issue??