And every one of them an expert because they said so LOL.

If he does not want to deal with the gas smell, get a good powerful electric motor and be done with it.

If the newbie does just a minimal amount of reading and research before asking an overly general question that has been answered dozens of times before, I believe he will get the answers he is looking for. Many times the answer is just a few threads or pages away and easily found under a similar heading.

People who get the most help are ones who have done at least some work to help themselves before coming to this or any similar forum.

Regarding widely varied opinions, I'd like to believe a newbie with a question is collecting enough data and opinions to form his own answer.

Regarding research, although I really enjoy being a part of conversations like we've been having over the last 5 pages or so, nobody has mentioned, not one of us, the fact 90% plus of this material has already bee covered in detail here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...formation.html

Until you smoke an ESC or motor in the house. That smell is hard to get rid of:p
My wife is very sensitive to fumes of any kind, but she's never noticed or complained about the smell of gasoline from my models, and that was before I switched to AV gas.
Pete

Likewise, my wife can detect me opening a can of lacquer thinner or something similar (3) stories away from my shop but has never once complained about the smell of gasoline in the house. Mostly because there is virtually no odor from the airplanes. Other than draining tanks, I take no special precautions to reduce the odor.

Oh regarding the wife, its OK for her to use nail polish remover and other stinky stuff but heaven forbid any odors coming from the shop ...... and I told her before we got married that everything I did in that shop would either be noisy, have an odor or create dust. I guess she forgot!

Tell her what I told mine, "I put that ring on I can take it off"!

He has quite an interesting opinion on electrics LOL. They’re all Radio Scrap toys. Real models have internal combustion motors just like the prototypes.

Well, I had a really good reason for not mentioning it, Al.... :)

Sorry to offend, but I'm with this opinion. I've let all my magazine subscriptions expire without re-newing because I'm sick and tired of all the coverage being about @@@ dam electrics and foamies.

And if I wasn't so lazy, I would write Clarence Lee about his remarks about Coleman Fuel. Even an outfit like Dave's Motors selling Chinese knockoffs of Zenoahs recommends 91 octane with his high performance kits. Again, why take the chance on a fuel that is just not intended for any kind of internal combustion engine??

AV8TOR

Just bought a house in FLA....again. Where are you located? Send it in private

A fine place to start. Bob was playing with gas long before many of us thought about it. Well, now smaller displacement gas is no longer the anemic and heavy power plant it used it so it's getting more attention.

I learned a lot from Clarence's articles years ago but these days, I seem to differ with some of his opinions when it comes to gas engines. Case in point, he has repeatedly suggested removing the screen in Walbro carburetors which I highly disagree with. He suggests it gets plugged too easily and I suggest if it is getting plugged, the fuel going to the carb is contaminated which will ruin a carb in short order if that "last line of defense" screen is omitted. I have written letters but no response. He continues to make that suggestion from time to time and my fur gets ruffled whenever I read the suggestion. I check my screens once a year and in most cases find nothing in them. I couldn't imagine removing them.

I do try to find answeres in the forum before I post a question, and I did read the Newbie to Gas General information first. I know most questions a person may have, has been most likely covered somewhere in the forums, but it may take hours/days reading to find them. As far as when there are differences in opinions on many of the questions posted on how things are done, I will generally figure that either way will work. I will have an idea on the way to go about doing something before I post a question. If I get an answere back that matches my idea, I'll most likely do it that way.

Lamar

I expect Mr Lee has a bit more experience running engines than you do.
Note that he also advises you to put a fuel filter in the line or in the tank.
And filter the fuel as you fill the tank.

Back before glow plugs we all used gas. The common advise was not to use leaded gas. The engine did not need high octane.In those days the engines wer very small. Less than .6 cu in. The question is at what engine size does it become important to run High test gas? As I said I ran a G45 for many years on coleman fuel without problems. I also ran my ZDZ80 on the fuel. But I crashed rather quickly and did not get much time on it. It did not show any signs of preignition though.

I don't dispute in any way that Mr. Lee knows more about RC engines than I do but that is not the point of my post. Clearly, not everyone knows everything about every subject and in this case I believe Mr. Lee is incorrect in his thinking. Regardless of whether inline fuel filters are used on gassers or not, there is just no logical reason I can make to myself why one would want to nor need to remove the internal screen. It is the absolute last defense the carb has against fuel contamination that could still happen with an inline filter. When the tiny drilled passages of a Walbro carb get crud in them it can be almost impossible to remove the crud without complete disassembly of the carb. A task that most users are not capable of so the carb becomes a throw away item.

I repeat, Mr Lee usually recommends removing the screen when it gets plugged with crud. Why on earth would you want to remove this valuable item even if you add back an inline filter. If anything happens to the filter, you're right back where you started only this time, your carb is plugged where the screen could have protected it. Most lawn equipment / chainsaws that use Walbro carb have inline filters yet they still retain that valuable screen. And ..... that's all I want to say about that and frankly, I'm sorry I ever brought up the subject.

I have to agree with truckracer regarding the screen. It is the last line of defense. Looking at it in another way, why would Walbro or the clones put a screen there if it wasn't needed or at least a smart idea. And if the screen is found to be clogged, it is better to trap the debris there rather than inside the tiny passages that aren't so easy to get to. As for my engines, the screen stays put.

By the way, I utilize a filter in the gas can along with a Walbro type filter/clunk in the fuel tank in the plane. I've never encountered a clogged up carb yet. It works for me.

Indiomike

There is one ,I have one used it many times when RFI was a problem.It just looks for noise does not matter the band.Made by MFJ,ham radio guys use it .I carry it in my trailer all the time.If you need more info let me no.Maybe I can find out where I bought it.We had a lot of RFI compliants when 2.4 first came out.Usually was user caused by not getting the RCEXL cao all the way down on the CM 6 spark plug. I can build a ignition that will tear any 2.4 up.Have done so,
BCCHI Tiered old CH guy

I have a good chainsaw type of filter/clunk in my fuel supply. As far as the inner screen is concerned, it's the last line of defense and yes a replacement screen comes in a Walbro kit. If you have a good filter system the screen rarely clogs and unless you really abuse your engines they can be easy to clean up with carb cleaner spray and an air hose. I think the filter type clunk is essential, take re-filling a chainsaw, it's impossible to keep some sawdust out of most tanks, w/o a good filter a person would spend a lot of time working on the saw. Our model engines are almost never subjected to as much exposure to contamination as commercial saws.

I think sometimes we read a lot more into this subject than necessary and with a little common sense most problems are easy to avoid. If you can't work on a Walbro almost all small engine shops can and there are a number of internet posts giving instruction.

As usual, I'm with you on this one Truck Racer. I think Clarence has a world of knowledge about glow engines, but he is not quite "up to speed" on gasoline engines.

AV8TOR

I'm sure there are exceptions but some of the shops I've been exposed to are good at spray cleaning a carb, blowing it out and replacing the diaphragms but they're lost from that point on. Remove a Welch plug and rod out the drilled passages .... never! Replace a capillary screen or check valve ..... what's that? They just replace the carb with a new one and move on to the next piece of equipment and frankly that's probably the best and most economical repair when call backs are concerned. It might be different if we were in the middle of logging country but I've experienced the same thing in northern Minnesota when I've been to shops there.

BECCHI I would like to borrow your ignition that bothers a 2.4 system for testing. I have tried everything I can with the RCexL system and cannot get it to do soo.
I have held the sparking plug removed and held right next to the antenna with no affect while the engine is being turned over with a starter.
It can be made to bother the servo wires but not the RF loop.
I will return it with the test results.

LOL! I agree completely with leaving the screen, as long as it is clean enough to run. I did have on one occasion a problem with an engine that kept running out of fuel at higher than idle rpm's. I did every check and verify I could think of including looking at the screen, note I said look at it. I ended up putting some coloring in the fuel and following it until I found the problem. Well, turns out, after sitting for several months the oil/fuel coating on the screen had dried out and left a nearly invisible plug over the screen. The coloring showed a minute hole on the outer edge that enough fuel was getting through for the idle. That was the weirdest thing I had ever seen in a carb.

Regarding that clear covering (slime) that coats the screen? Seems like I read where the potential for that to happen increase big time when/if you change brands of oils. Makes no sense at all, but wondering if anyone can verify.

I have no idea, but I have used the same oil for several years so that don't apply in my case. When I pulled the screen, it came off and was like an ultra thin clear disk.