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Engine Cleaning
Is there anyplace I can go online that will walk you thru how to clean up your engine at the end of the season? I never done it before and Id like to this winter..Cleaning the carbon of the piston etc..
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RE: Engine Cleaning
why do u want to remove carbon off your piston is there something wrong with the motor .
to remove carbon you will need to hone the bore and replace the rings (doing it properly) and then u need to run it in again to build up carbon on the rings to get a good seal . so the question is do u want to clean or rebuild ??? |
RE: Engine Cleaning
I thought carbon buildup on the piston was not good or did I misunderstand?[X(]
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RE: Engine Cleaning
carbon is what a by product of burning fuel now there can be a excessive buildup as running it rich too long but when u take your piston out you loose where your rings were seated so then u need new rings and need to hone the bore to get a smooth linning for the new rings to reseat .
the trick is tune your engine perfect and get a oil like castrol active 2t or one with a little cleaning agent in it and not run it rich and carbon should wear away . what is wrong with your engine [X(][X(][X(][X(][X(][X(] |
RE: Engine Cleaning
ORIGINAL: Josey Wales I thought carbon buildup on the piston was not good or did I misunderstand?[X(] -------------- Some carbon build-up is normal and acceptable. It is also unavoidable. The engine does not need to be pristinely clean in order to run properly/healthy. As others have mentioned, the only way to completely clean the engine will require that you perform unnecessary maintenance on the engine. Honing the cylinder for a new ring(s) wears the cylinder and risks damaging the cylinder - all for nothing. Run your engine with a normally leaned mixture and stop worrying about a little carbon. If it really bothers you, some folks are running Bel-Ray two-stroke oil, which they claim eliminates carbon build-up. At $50 a gallon, it better do something different. <G> |
RE: Engine Cleaning
ORIGINAL: srm99 what is wrong with your engine [X(][X(][X(][X(][X(][X(] |
RE: Engine Cleaning
ORIGINAL: Artisan Some carbon build-up is normal and acceptable. It is also unavoidable. The engine does not need to be pristinely clean in order to run properly/healthy. As others have mentioned, the only way to completely clean the engine will require that you perform unnecessary maintenance on the engine. Honing the cylinder for a new ring(s) wears the cylinder and risks damaging the cylinder - all for nothing. Run your engine with a normally leaned mixture and stop worrying about a little carbon. If it really bothers you, some folks are running Bel-Ray two-stroke oil, which they claim eliminates carbon build-up. At $50 a gallon, it better do something different. <G> |
RE: Engine Cleaning
NOT GOING TO HAVE A GO at ya but every winter do you rebuild your car engine same idea with yours plane motor
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RE: Engine Cleaning
ORIGINAL: srm99 NOT GOING TO HAVE A GO at ya but every winter do you rebuild your car engine same idea with yours plane motor |
RE: Engine Cleaning
ORIGINAL: Artisan -------------- At $50 a gallon, it better do something different. <G> A typical day at the field, I will burn less than a gallon of gas, more like a half gallon. Help me with the math...if I go to the field and it's not blowing or too hot and I do this 3 days a week and I burn less than a gallon each trip and taking out winter months, I will likely burn how much gas in a year (treated)? Adjusted for inflation....well, you get my drift. Who's worrying about the cost of 50 or 100 gallons of oil which would treat a thousand gallons of gas? In reality, about every two or three months I go by the motorcycle shop and buy 3 or 4 bottles of oil for about $20. Then, I don't think about it for another two or three months. Wow. Larry |
RE: Engine Cleaning
And now for the rest of the story....
All two strokes need to be decarboned or decoked as part of regular maintenance. It's standard operating procedure. I can't tell you how often it should be done on your engine because it depends on the amount of gas you burn, the type of oil, and the operating conditions and temperature of the engine. You don't need to replace rings or hone the cylinder after decoking. You simply remove the carbon from the top of the piston and the combustion chamber with a scraper (not metal!) that doesn't gouge the aluminum. As long as the rings aren't stuck in the groove with carbon, you can leave them alone. The benefit is the engine runs cooler and is less likely to detonate and hole a piston. Too much carbon in the motor and the piston can also smack the head. If you don't feel comfortable working on your own motor, send it to RCignition and let him decoke it. |
RE: Engine Cleaning
Thanks Diablo..thats exactly what I was talking about..just didnt know the technical term for it
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RE: Engine Cleaning
ORIGINAL: Josey Wales ORIGINAL: Artisan Some carbon build-up is normal and acceptable. It is also unavoidable. The engine does not need to be pristinely clean in order to run properly/healthy. As others have mentioned, the only way to completely clean the engine will require that you perform unnecessary maintenance on the engine. Honing the cylinder for a new ring(s) wears the cylinder and risks damaging the cylinder - all for nothing. Run your engine with a normally leaned mixture and stop worrying about a little carbon. If it really bothers you, some folks are running Bel-Ray two-stroke oil, which they claim eliminates carbon build-up. At $50 a gallon, it better do something different. <G> ----------------- We're just talking here and I certainly do not claim to be expert in this field, as are others such as RCIgnition, etc. I too am running Amsoil at the moment and I fully intend to try some Bel-Ray oil eventually. Just for hoots. However, I wouldn't worry about using the cheapest grade of oil available as long as it met the manufacturer's specs, were I in a financial pinch. I am not insinuating that you are in such a pinch. I suspect that too much is made of the differences in oils. With today's engines, there really isn't much interaction between owner and engine. Most are sufficiently complicated that the average guy doesn't work on his own engines. They are sent back to the "factory" for any and all work, or to a specialist. What's left to do/decide about your engine? Fuel and oil. That's about it. Cults spring up regarding this or that additive or oil. I've seen it going on for over fifty years in automobiles, motorcycles, lawnmowers, outboard motors, chainsaws, model airplanes, etc. |
RE: Engine Cleaning
I agree about the oil..prolly doesnt make much difference in the end..I just like to tinker..I flew today with the H1R..I started out at 6940 rpms and after tweaking the needles a bit ended up at 7020...Still had a slight burble at 1/4 throttle but I figured Ill deal with that next time I fly..I did notice a bit more oil on the plane than with the 80:1 Amsoil but it wasnt enough to be worried about. Funny thing is I ended up with almost identical needle settings with the H1R as I had with the 80:1 Amsoil:eek:
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RE: Engine Cleaning
to remove carbon you will need to hone the bore and replace the rings (doing it properly) and then u need to run it in again to build up carbon on the rings to get a good seal . so the question is do u want to clean or rebuild ??? If the rings are stuck and removed for cleaning, just remember to put them back the exact way they came off. |
RE: Engine Cleaning
I don't know what kind of motor you have, but I know that DA doesn't want the user dissassembling their motors at all. If you have a DA, just send it in for "freshening" in the off-season and they'll take care of you... probably won't even charge you. Good guys.
Other motors... call the distributor or manufacturer and talk to them about warranty policies before turning wrenches on the motor (other than the obvious... making sure your head is tight, etc...). |
RE: Engine Cleaning
ORIGINAL: Josey Wales I thought carbon buildup on the piston was not good or did I misunderstand?[X(] ---------------- Normal running accumulations are not problematic, because it will be minimal. You will do more harm to the engine cleaning it than any benefit you could realize from removing the normal carbon accumulations. Just oil the engine up really good after the flying season with Automatic Transmission Fluid or Air Tool Oil and keep it wrapped up and out of harms way. |
RE: Engine Cleaning
ORIGINAL: sillyness I don't know what kind of motor you have, but I know that DA doesn't want the user dissassembling their motors at all. If you have a DA, just send it in for "freshening" in the off-season and they'll take care of you... probably won't even charge you. Good guys. Other motors... call the distributor or manufacturer and talk to them about warranty policies before turning wrenches on the motor (other than the obvious... making sure your head is tight, etc...). |
RE: Engine Cleaning
Diablo-RCU Date 6/22/2006 12:03:04 AM
And now for the rest of the story.... All two strokes need to be decarboned or decoked as part of regular maintenance. It's standard operating procedure. I can't tell you how often it should be done on your engine because it depends on the amount of gas you burn, the type of oil, and the operating conditions and temperature of the engine. You don't need to replace rings or hone the cylinder after decoking. You simply remove the carbon from the top of the piston and the combustion chamber with a scraper (not metal!) that doesn't gouge the aluminum. As long as the rings aren't stuck in the groove with carbon, you can leave them alone. The benefit is the engine runs cooler and is less likely to detonate and hole a piston. Too much carbon in the motor and the piston can also smack the head. If you don't feel comfortable working on your own motor, send it to RCignition and let him decoke it. i would disagree with you once you remove the piston from head where the ring was seated is no more unless u can stop that ring moving at all unless you rehone and new rings you run the chance of blow by and thats a hole lot worse than carbon build up. |
RE: Engine Cleaning
ORIGINAL: srm99 Diablo-RCU Date 6/22/2006 12:03:04 AM And now for the rest of the story.... All two strokes need to be decarboned or decoked as part of regular maintenance. It's standard operating procedure. I can't tell you how often it should be done on your engine because it depends on the amount of gas you burn, the type of oil, and the operating conditions and temperature of the engine. You don't need to replace rings or hone the cylinder after decoking. You simply remove the carbon from the top of the piston and the combustion chamber with a scraper (not metal!) that doesn't gouge the aluminum. As long as the rings aren't stuck in the groove with carbon, you can leave them alone. The benefit is the engine runs cooler and is less likely to detonate and hole a piston. Too much carbon in the motor and the piston can also smack the head. If you don't feel comfortable working on your own motor, send it to RCignition and let him decoke it. i would disagree with you once you remove the piston from head where the ring was seated is no more unless u can stop that ring moving at all unless you rehone and new rings you run the chance of blow by and thats a hole lot worse than carbon build up. |
RE: Engine Cleaning
FYI- It is impossible to place the rings anywhere except exactly where they were!!! ( without damaging something on assembly)
The ring grooves on the piston have 'pins' to keep them exactly in the same place as before they were removed. all you have to do is remember which ring was on top and which one was on the bottom. Also it is very important to keep the rings right side up so that the ring gap meets the pin perfectly like this ------ \*/ . Just imagine the asterik as the pin in the top of the ring groove. Hope this helps! |
RE: Engine Cleaning
Be sure to Plastiguage the rod bearings for clearance check. Generally on a teardown its common practice to replace the timing chain and oil pump also. ;) Righty tighty/lefty loosy
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