RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Hello guys I just talk with BOB at DLUSA to order one of this engines,is going to be my first gasoline engine and just my second airplane.
Do you have any recomendations for a total unexperienced on this engines?
The plane I have is a Extra 330L from Nitroplanes is about 80" wingspan.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

There is an article on how to do canister mufflers on my website... www.rcaerobats.net

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

What was your first plane?

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Bob;
I went over to your webpage to look around and found something you have on the pennzoil. I went to my shop and looked at what I am using and it is different than either bottle you show. Take a look and see what you think.

Gaines

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Find a Helper... locally. Make a friend, or two or three. Get a GOOD, experienced pilot to help you, setup your radio for a buddy-box, and above all, DO NOT TRY TO LEARN THIS BY YOURSELF!!!!!!!!!!

No offense meant, but if you only have ONE r/c airplane before an 80" Extra with a gasser, you are going to be facing very complex situations that you haven't even anticipated exist before.

I have been a coach and instructor for decades.... please believe my sincerity.... Get qualified help to walk you through every step of the way. It is the only safe and smart approach to save you grief, money, and crashes.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Going from something like a trainer to a gasser is a HUGE jump! You really need to find someone local to help. These things will really hurt you.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

The KS line that DA sells , has all the right stuff for you DIY guys.

Paul, if you run smoke,. use the DA stock muffler , it has a nice smoke nipple on it. I had a Slimline pitts muffler , and even though it had a smoke nipple, I gave it away....to another friend who has a DL-50. He needed it to fit a scale application. But, the SLimline will rob you of some power. 2-300 rpm at least.

I would use the stock DL muff for smoke, but after drilling one, it is a little thin, and would not reccomend it. Now, if you could get someone to braze the nipple on....I would try it. Just look at DA stocker to get the location right.

I use a Slimline ShowtimePFt all in one pump, valve and baattery...works great.


Mine is the Yellow one...smoking.....[link=http://www.rcuvideos.com/item/G9B5ZFCDL57FGS3R]Smoke Yak and 2 Yak friends.[/link]

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Just check the "Service" ratings on the rear label.

"TC" is "true" Air-cooled
"TCIII" is "other outdoor". Outboard, and others are service rating TCW3, IIRC.

No fear, IMO, and shared with others....TC is fine.
TC III is fine, too, but OUT-BOARD should be avoided.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Thanks for the info. It's the "TC".

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Mike, here you go, a step by step procedure. first of all remove the carb from the engine, then remove the choke plate. Then remove the highspeed needle, using the little red straw that comes with the can of wd-40 or choke cleaner, insert it into the HS needle hole and spray, watch to see if this spray comes out the brass fuel nozzle as seen in the picture just behind the choke plate. My guess is it won't, or there will be very little. (probably nothing) Now we know it's plugged with epoxy. Now remove the diaphram cover, (it has 4 small screws) then carefully remove the diaphram. You will see the inside end of the brass fuel nozzle. See the epozy? it ran down in the hole too far and plugged the nozzle. All they really wanted to do was plug the hole at the very top. When they mixed up the epoxy for say..... about 100 carbs, at first the epoxy was thin and ran down the hole to far, these were the carbs that were done first with a fresh batch of epoxy. The carbs that were done as the epoxy started to become less runny, well.... they were fine cause it didn't run down the hole.

1. Take a #60 drill bit insert it into the Highspeed needle hole and carefully drill out the epoxy, you will run into brass when you get past the epoxy, don't drill through the brass. Move the drill in and out several times, do this over a clean piece of paper so you can see what comes out. If you see any brass, stop you have hit the end.

2. Take the #60 drill bit out of your drill, turn in around and stick it back in the hole you just drilled, as far in as you can get it and leave it there, your half done.

At this point the fuel takes a 90 deg turn and is supposed to head out the nozzle, it will still be plugged and you have to drill from another angle.

3. Now remove the plate on the other side of the carb, it has one big screw in the middle. remove the plate, and the thin fiber valve.

4. Take your 2nd #60 drill bit, go through the big screw hole of the cover you just removed carefully insert it into the fuel nozzle from the inside of the venturi, (it will be at a angle) drill untill you hit the drill bit that is still stuck in the highspeed needle hole. If you don't leave the bit in the HS needle hole, you will drill right though all the epoxy and out the other side. You will then have to plug the hole again and start over. In the last picture you can see the epoxy covering the hole from the inside (under the diaphram) This hole must stay covered!

5. Remove the drill bit in the HS needle hole and then turn the other bit by hand while putting some presure on it, ( you want it to go about another ten thousands of an inch) then do the same thing through the HS needle hole making sure both are clean. (you are creating a 90 deg elbow) Now try the WD-40 or carb cleaner trick again through the HS hole, it should spray out the fuel nozzle into the venturi now.


*** Note*** Some people don't suggest removing the choke plate, the little screw has disrupted threads that keep it tite so it won't fall out and ruin your engine. I always use red loctite when replacing that screw. You can do this procedure without removing the choke plate, it's a little harder because it's more difficult to see what your doing, but it cetainly can be done. Knowing what I know now, I would not removed the choke plate on mine.

clear as mud?

John

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Well really is my 3rd plane I learn with a trainer(avistar 40) and sold it a week later then I buy a twist 60 with a Saito 100 in front a nice 3d funfly plane and now get this plane.I have about 9 years flying helis and airplanes are very easy to me.I've been flying the Twist for some months now and also get a chance to fly a 25% yak from a friend.He is the one that is going to help me with the plane here.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Well, raypadro, having 9 years' modeling, and flying a Twist can't hurt your success! Having the help with the 25% Yak sure won't hurt either! Good luck to you!

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Very nice job John! Can't be more clear or concise then that! You may want to see if Bob would like to post that on his web site. Outstanding job!

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Thank you, Bob and I talked by phone, he has some carbs he wants to fix, Now he will know how. I'm not sure if everybody in the USA sent their carbs in under waranty or if some were able to keep them. Probably some people in europe that will need this information for sure. It's a pretty easy fix once you understand what the problem is.

John

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Buddy, if they can't fix it from those instructions, they can't fix it! LOL Once again, great job! I'm sure a lot of people will be happy to read it!

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

I haven't flown it yet, but I got a JTec for mine. When you order the standard DA-50 wrap-around, mention it's for a DL-50 and Al will make sure it has the proper port and bolt pattern for the DL. Off the main canister, I got 3 inch exhaust stacks instead of the standard 4 inchers (better for my "small" plane).

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Can you recomend me a good prop to start with this engine.It seems that the 22/8 is the one to start with but I read that are so many choices out there.
Which one do you try and give you good results.I,m really in a tight budged and can't afford to buy more than one prop now.I really appreciate your comments about looking for help with that plane,thats the same I told to the people that want to start flying helis.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

John.
Many thanks for the solution to the blocked carb problem. I'm sure this has helped an awful lot of people other than myself.
If you were in England I would buy you a pint and a bag of chips.
Good luck always.
Mike

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

This is one of the best forum's i had been to everyone is so willing to help others even if it is not a DL engine and everyone gets alone so fine and that is how one learns the most from others when you are first starting out, i have a da-50 and have not yet checked my RPM'S but have checked the engine heat after landing, i have the wrap around pitts and i know that i will lose some RPM's but does not matter to me as i am just a sport pilot and love to fly and it has more power then i need anyways, my cap 232 sport hoovers at 1/4 throttle and it is running so nice but soon i will get the RPM's and see what you think i am losing with the wrap around pitts muffler but it does sound really nice.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Nice descriptions and pictures!

Just wonder if the blockage happens with the new carb or developed later. What is the symptom? Not very clear here.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

I believe he states that it happens at the factory when the epoxy is applied. Causes a total or partial blockage of the passage.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

....I also think this was only a problem early on with the DL engine and has long since been resolved on engines purchased through Bob Kramer at DLUSA. Knowing that many DL owners having this problem in the beginning, didn't get their engines from Bob, the post with detailed information then becomes helpful to other fellow DL owners that may have had no other route for resolving their problem.

Chad

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

I agree, They become this way when people are allowed to talk without getting bashed. It's rare, something called respect, thats all.

I believe DL Bob had some 15-20 carbs that were plugged, he sent out replacements. I'm sure there are more out there that were not replaced around the world. They were the early engines that had this problem. I can't confirm it, but I have reason to believe the brass nozzle used in the early carbs is no longer being used. They are probably using a nozzle that doesn't have a hole that needs to be plugged. I think the inside hole was a production mistake, They figured they could use the parts with a dab of epoxy. For the most part it worked. Just my guess. Maybe it was a part from a different application that they decided to retrofit.

If some of the early carbs were plugged and some wern't. That means that some have to be partially plugged. I imagine you would be able to tell if your HS needle needs to be turned out more than normal 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 turns and it doesn't have much effect when you turn it out further than that. It's really is easy to fix, however I would not mess with it if your not showing symptoms of a plugged jet.

john

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Ok! This evening I rotated the carb then rotated the throttle shaft. Choke on one side and throttle on the other. I have a collision with the throttle arm and a cast threaded section of plate that doesnt seem to have a use. Am I missing something here?
Edwin

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

How about a picture