RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

I know I may be a little late but that casting is the wide open throttle stop

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

LMAO!!!:D:D:D:D You're absoulutely right Bob. Most people aren't aware of the disrupted thread until it's too late. If the screw should come loose in flight and the engine ingest it you just pretty much bought yourself an engine. You can buy a new carb a lot cheaper then a GH10 tap and oversized screw so you're best bet ( if you have spare carbs) is to replace the carb and just go with reversing the choke or throttle arm. I think I reversed my throttle arm and then used a manual choke.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

I ditto the removing of the screw - learnt the hard way on a ZDZ engine of mine - expensive error!!!

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

A repeated 2-4 seconds touch of the tip of a hot soldering iron on the red-loctited screw will quickly loose the grip power of that liquid on the thread. It will back out easy.

On reversing the (direction of) choke arm for my ZDZ, I filed off enough metal to get the arm off. Flipped the arm and put it on the shaft, and applied some JB-weld.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Now ya'll got me paranoid. I've removed several butterflys in the past on chainsaws and weed eaters, maybe even one of my conversions (dont remember) and havent had a screw come loose yet. But now that its been said, Murphy's gonna poke his head in here sometime. Already sent a msg to DLUSA about ordering a carb. Now I have a carb to experiment with. I'm pretty anal about my engines running right. Too much good press about this one to just let it go. I wouldnt think the solder iron test would be comparable in this scenario. The intake to carbs (based on my experience) is pretty cool. I've done experiments with extended intake manifolds on a saito 180 that almost made ice on the manifold while the engine was running. A machinist friend made a 2" extention to properly place the carb in relation to the fuel tank. Worked like a charm.

On a side note, I talked with Christofe again about his water in the fuel problem. It happened again. After flushing the carb he got good flights the rest of the day. I suggested he dump that fuel and go to a different gas station. Boths times were from the same mix.
Edwin

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Sorry, Edwin. My purpose wasn't to hex you....keep us posted on things, for sure.

As for your friend with the DL running on water-gas............ what is THAT about? Good, dry gas, ONLY....

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

I just found something interesting. My DA-50 has a brass shaft, brass is soft and the threads in the shaft would be easily damaged by the disrubted threads on the screw when removed.

When I took the choke plate out on my DL the screw came out with resistance and went back in with resistance. Now I unsderstand why. Further inspection reveals my DL-50 has a steel shaft, not soft brass. the brass shaft could be the weak point and the cause of past failures on other engines. I don't remember seeing a steel shaft on past carberators. I looked at my Taurus and my 3W, both have a brass shaft. I'm guessing it's a cheaper route to use steel, they normally use brass because it works as bearing and won't wear the carberator in the contact area. A steel shaft will cause wear, and eventually leakage.

I just tried to get the screw out and could not do it with more force than what it took to take it out origionally. Just food for thought and or debate. I don't suggest anybody follow what I do, especially if you have a brass shaft.

John

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Now I look back at the picture of Aerobobs engine and I see it has a brass shaft. Edwins is also brass. I bet you guys have the late version carb, I have the early version that must have come with a steel shaft. take a look at mine, then look at bobs, or Eds

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

No worrys. I want a carb to experiment with and it might as well be this one. I'm sure DL has been watching this so I figure I can get back in GOOD with him with a new carb. It looks like it will take some machine work to flip the shaft and keep it positioned properly. Something to play with in the home shop.

Never heard of dry gas, unless that is human wind. We'll know soon enough. He's convinced its water in the gas. Not impossible. The only time I had that problem was on an outboard motor that stayed on the boat. My mixes only last 6 months at the most (chain saw, weed eater). Never saw it before for a planes mix.
Edwin

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

John, just checked mine, I have the brass shaft. Think you're right, must have changed up to brass. this is my second and it wasen't installed. Will check my other next time I remove the cowl. If edwin has a brass one on that soon to be spare, he may let you have it at a good price, disrubted threads,screw and plate.[>:]

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

On mine, it is pretty easy to get the choke plate screw out and put it back (brass shaft). Loc-titing it is a good idea, although I have not done it for a while. :-)


Edwin,
I talked to Christopher on Sunday and he is using good gas. he did not want to feed the gas in the old tank to his car either.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

I am the king of off topic questions, so here I go again. What kind of cables are you guys useing on your pull pull setups? I just got some kevlar from tbm.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Stainless steel, 7 strand, vinyl-coated fishing leader line (Berkeley is one brand; there are dozens). Academy Sports, Bass Pro Shops.... I use the 80lb test or greater. Never stretches, won't fray, cheap, easy to replace, can get in black or clear....

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

If you have a brass shaft on your choke and the screw goes in and out very easily and you are concerned about this here is a simple, partial, fix. Take the rod out of the carb and lay it on a hard flat surface with the BACK side of the threaded hole facing up. That's the side the screw comes out of, NOT the side it goes into first. Now take a small steel ball bearing and place it on the threaded hole and tap it slightly with a hammer so as to create a slight indentation. Be careful not to hit it too hard or you will bend the shaft. This will disrupt the last thread in the hole. Now when you put the screw back in, with Loc-tite, the last thread in the shaft will help to capture the screw. If you don't have a ball bearing use a fine tipped philips screwdriver.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

My Sparkplug I removed it and it oily and very black, it could be tha t i removed it 3 days after last flight???? i think it because the cilinder is inverted and the oil can fall to the spark

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Edwin, why don't you cut your losses and sell me that carb, disrupted threads and all. $15 bucks plus shippping , a new one is 40

john

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Cool idea.

The screw on mine can still be tighten good (and I meant it). I'll apply some loc-tite next time when the engine is off the stand-offs.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

If the plug is oily and black, it means the engine is running rich. Need to lean it in.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

sniperpilot

You are definitely running too rich. Ask me how I know! I fouled mine during break in and had all sorts of running problems. New plug and leaning out, it runs like a champ. You might want to consider replacing the plug if is has any carbon build up.

Chuck

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Hello,

If anyone is looking to purchase a DL Engine in Australia, just letting you know we are a authorised factory dealer for them in Australia.

We have local stock in Australia, ready to ship. Purchases can be made via our web store.

Motors are inspected by us before being shipped and supplied with our own 12 Months Limited Australian Warranty.

Any questions send me a message.

Cheers

Scott
DL Engines and Hobby Australia.

www.dlenginesaustralia.com
www.dlengines.com.au

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

How perfect are your guys pull pull rudder setups. Do your cables get a little loose at full 3D throws. I'm new to pull pull. But I was told as long as your cables don't go slack than you should be ok. Any body know? Please?:D

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

That's one of those controversy areas, Paul. In the pattern world, guys are fighting Ackerman effect with lots of technical innovation, and more $$$. Bottom line.... when you play with it...the only cable that has to have tension is the one pulling. Sounds stupid.... but...think it through, you'll see that it makes NO difference what the NON-pulling cable is doing because the pulling cable is under tension during the pull, and is restraining the rudder during the release to center. At center, the next pull "off center" tightens THAT cable, and it keeps tension even during release till it centers....

This is way off topic - I will be happy to discuss at length via email, if you like.

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

aerobob, thats all I needed to here. I have my pull pull set up so close to right on, that I'm not going to worry about it, after hearing from you. Thanks again.:D:D

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Sounds rich but what oil are you running at what mixture and how are you measuring it?

RE: Let's try again DL-50
 

Lou55 im using TORCO SYNTHETIC at 25cc per liter (40:1) The engine sounds and pull good. at the mid rpm range it has a lot 4 stroke sound