RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Ok, that is a good point. I just got my 78 inch EF Extra this morning and it will be a while before it is going to fly. In the mean time, no reason not to try the sticky sandpaper and run it on my test stand before I go modify anything. Another thought I had is to put some release agent on the Syssa thrust washer, shaft, etc and then after roughing it up with some sandpaper, add some JB weld or similar and "grow" some teeth on it. That way, no fibers are cut and it would be clean and easy and have perfect engagement.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

I agree with Matt. You could also use 3M spray adhesive if you don't have sticky paper or 3M the paper back to back.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

[quote]ORIGINAL: tsyssa

There are only a few things that you should have to do with your engine. Set the needles for your air density is one. Fly it is the second.
[/quote

The timing is factory set. It looks maxed but it it still has a very small amount of adjustment left. I'm surprised how little adjustment is left.

Of course I used a tachometer...
The spinner is broken and won't be replaced.
The RPM sagged and quickly came back as if lean, but the needle was set to max RPM and richened 1/4 turn as directed. it 's done.

I'll start over on the adjustment process next time Im flying.

If anyone has any doubts on the quality of the carbon fiber spinners, have a look inside the cone, the lay-up process is visible. The Syssa spinner is very sloppy when compared against the MUCH more expensive Graphtech. I'm not a sales man for either, just owned both and one is still flying.

The Graphtech spinner cone screws into the shaft of the crank, not the back of the spinner nut. As mentioned, the DLE 55 is drilled and 4 bolted so it cant throw the prop. The Syssa uses the dave brown nut.

How does sticky paper back act when it get's hot? I think it will get soft and actually lube the surfaces in a sense. Not something I'm interested in testing but aI'd love to here how it turns out! Might create some balance challenges, too.

Thanks for the compliments on the install..no cowl means I best secure everything
The weather was a little cooler in the beginning and warmed slightly throughout the day. Maybe it was just that simple. I ran through the set up procedures three times and had 5 flights. I was getting four stroking at around 4500-5500 (A rich condition) and a few dead sticks.
I'll get it dialed

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Rob, the 3M adhesive is called "Super 77" and it is not affected by heat or cold. Amazing stuff. Available at Staples, etc.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

X2

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Did someone say "BOOST Tabs???"

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

FOr the guy that has the EF 78" gasser...
Could you do a build thread and post some internal picts???

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Rob,

Using the TACH to back off the high speed needle until you note a loss of at least 300rpm. The 1/4 turn is simply a suggestion. And remember when tuning; the low and high speed needle interact to some degree with this carb.

Running the lil beast lean will cause and affect a cough as you noted, throwing the prop/spinner and even taking out the prop hub key....

Michael Glavin

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Run any engine with a walbro carb at full throttle, close off the low needle and see what happens! Look out!

I set my gas stuff 100 rpm rich from peak, glow 300 rpm rich.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

I am fairly new to RC gas engines so this is some great carb adjusting info.

In my case, since I don't need every last ounce of thrust from the engine, I plan to run a little on the rich side until I get used to the engine.

My Saito 4 stroke would sure toss the prop and spinner with a lean start, and sometimes in the air, even with the double nut setup.

Now all I need is some good weather and time off to play with my new toy.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

While a 100rpm reduction is likely all that, this is a new engine yet to be broken-in which is exhibiting teething pains. Thus my suggestion to drop 300rpm, this will create a baseline that the will hopefully exhibit good operating parameters. Once its established the engine will operate reliably without ”coughing” one can take another look at adjusting the needles.

FWIW: There is little to NO advantage to running a gasser overly rich IMO and in fact its detrimental to the engines long term life expectancy.

Michael Glavin

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

I fully agree.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

I was really hoping to maiden my Syssa Funtana after work one night this week. I'm not sure the field will be dry enough even if the water recedes by the weekend.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Time to get out the floats! ;)

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Backing the High needle off 1/4 turn is exactly what the instruction manual directs after running at full throttle for 5 seconds. That is if you hear the RPM drop...which I did here and dropped it 1/4 turn. That coincidently equated to a 400 RPM drop from 7100 down to 6700. The next cycle from idle to max (with 10 second stabilization allowance) resulted in the prop and spinner liberating before I could count to 5 and listen for any RPM drop.

The problem wasn't a large pop as much as a sudden RPM dip. The spinner and prop just don't work as built. Amazingly, I didn't have another issue once I deleted the spinner and went with only the original Syssa washer and nut.

This engine and prop set up should not be SO fragile that it can't handle the "recommended" set up procedures. Again, no problems one the spinner was removed.
I'll run her again this weekend..

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

If your spinner is not damaged and you would like to sell , please PM.

Thanks,

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Sorry, it's cracked in two places on the cone.
How about a slightly used backplate??
LOL

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

I don't plan to run it "slobbering rich", but I think running the engine "a LITTLE on the rich side" will not decrease it's long term life expectancy enough to worry about. The engine will probably outlast me anyway.

The big advantage to me is to not loose a prop and spinner from a backfire or have the engine die in the air forcing a dead stick landing.

I suspect once it is fully broken in it will be less sensitive to the carb adjustments and I will be able to trust it running leaner.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Too bad, I like these spinners. If you think these are fragile , don't ever buy a Pete's Model spinner!

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Here are three shots of my SAP 1.80 mounted in a brand new QQ 73" YAK. I used the simple Nyrod choke device and it is too easy. There is also a shot of the Syssa IBEC mounted mid-ship. With weather in the upper 50's I plan to do the first start of the engine this week.
Expectations are high from reading many others experiences. I'm looking for a piece of old inner tube for the back plate of the carbon spinner I bought from Todd.
I'll post some RPM figures when I get to that point.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Bigben,
I'd recommend some foam under the IBEC. Vibrations can shake things up.

Question for the readers; I've got this engine in a Yak with a large cowl. The distance from the carb adjustment screws to the cowl edge is about 3.5 inches. Any suggestions on how to help guide the screw driver to the screw head? Need something when the engine is running and trying to make adjustments. Thanks,

Michael

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Fly & BB, I use 1/4" dia. x 3/4" long piece of shrink tubing on each screw. I bit of heat and it will conform to the spring under the head of each screw. With the hole in the cowl in the right position, it is realatively easy to adjust the screws even w/ the engine running.
I gave up on the Syssa inignition mount. I felt that it need isolation. Bob

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Any recent buyers of the SYSSA? Wondering how long the wait is currently after payment??? Thanks

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Get a block of balsa, hold it square to the firewall and mark the locations of the adjustment screws on it. Drill the holes the size of drinking straws. Glue the straws in the block and glue the block in place. Cut straws to within 1/4 inch of cowl.

I saw this in the Aeroworks 50cc Extra 300 thread. I hope I explained it so it's understandable.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

EGRUNE...Credit card was charged on January 26...
No big hurry, it's just for testing anyway..;)