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RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
Jeez standoffs , Sorry no, Im doing my best to supply a complete set up with everything they will need to do the swap, but they can come up with there own standoffs or cut a hole in the FW, Seems to me that most will need to do that anyway if they want to keep the engine in the same plane it was in already to maintain the same cowl clearanc and cuts outs.
Should be a matter of just bolting it back on in the original holes, course the linkage will change. The 55 stand offs are the correct length, but I've been told there is a interference issue with using them, but they will give you the correct length, if a person wishes not to cut the hole. |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
ORIGINAL: jedijody ORIGINAL: WCB Exactly what I was thinking. Buy a new engine and then have to turn around and drop another $125 to fix it so it will run? I don't think so. |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
Probably should have done that before announcing it. I bet it has gathered some interest already.
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RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
ORIGINAL: WCB ORIGINAL: jedijody ORIGINAL: WCB Exactly what I was thinking. Buy a new engine and then have to turn around and drop another $125 to fix it so it will run? I don't think so. I have a DLE 30 on order and I'm in line for cyberwolf's mod. I wanted the strongest 30 on the market and want rear induction/side exhaust. With the amount of machining steps required and the fact that they are hand machined (no cnc) in the USA, the mods are well worth the money. I'm very impressed. |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
WCB,
I have a DL-30 in stock configuration. I am quite happy with this engine, it does seem to be a 30 size powerhouse!! My engine runs great!! I am also in line to get one of the 'Cyberplates". I want the cyberplate for two reasons: 1) I don't particularly like side carbs, would much rather have it in the rear(of the crankcase...hahah). 2) I have a good reliable idle at about 1800 and would LOVE to reduce it just a little( I fly off grass so 1800 is ground idle for me). As far as the standoffs are concerned, I will cut a hole in the firewall and make my own standoffs out of hardwood dowels. I've done it before, no big deal. I wish I could express my gratitude to Cyberwolf, JediJody, and all of the positive contributors to this thread. Their dedication is MUCH appreciated!! MR G |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
That was a good point. The ability to have a side or rear carb engine at your fingertips is not a bad alternative to have. Not all the 30's have an SPS or gas pooling issue. Mine doesn't but I might be smarter than the engine...
So paying a bit extra to have a second means of mounting a carb that permits a better fit in most airframes appropriately sized for the engine is not a bad selling feature at all. The only other engine I can think of that has more than one way of mounting was/is the Taurus 52. It has both beam and radial mounting available on the same case. Good job Cyberwolf. I think you done good! |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
WCB
My interest in the rear carb conversion has nothing to do with the way my DLE30cc preforms! I have a plane with cheaks on it around a narrow firewall area and closed in on the bottom! In order to get the amount of power to fly it well i needed a motor like the DLE30. Biggest problem for me is with the carb setting so low on the side. Because of its location on the side i was going to have to cut a big hole in the left cheak which would of resulted in the carb sticking half way out of the left side of the plane creating a problem hooking up the throttle linkage and the choke servo linkage! I'm running an 18/8 Zoar in the 8000 - 8100 rpm range at 1079 ft ASL without any problems with the motor quitting when tilted. That is with the cylinder up instead of inverted which is the case for most of these pilots so i don't know if it was inverted what difference it would make in my motor compared to others. But with Cyberwolfs (Cyberplate) it should eliminate all future issues as well as the big hole in the cheak delima so i'm tickeled at this point. And to answer the question of would i buy an 30cc engine that cost $454.00 to start with if I had of known? Probably not would of been left with the delima of do i go 4 strk. or lower powered gas like the MLD 28cc like everyone had done for yrs. now. |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
Thanks T.O.M. Cyberplate eh *L* well thats as good a name as any I suppose.
Well breaks over time to go back out and make more chips. |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
People get all bent about the cost of a gas engine. Something I've never been able to understand. They are coming over from glow power in droves. A place where bearings rust or frequently wear out and where 3 to 4 years is a reasonable life expentancy for a frequently used engine. A good gasser will last 20 years or more if not used make dents in terra firma. Amortize the up front cost and they are much cheaper than glow engines, and that's before factoring reduced fuel and plug costs.
I had the same outlook once, but it didn't take very long after making the switch to gas to see how wrong my way of thinking had been. Shortly after that my glow flying ended forever. If I spend $1,000.00 or more for an engine that lasts me many, many years and effectively and reliably powers the planes I choose to fly I'm ahead of anywhere I would have been with a comparitively sized glow engine. Croquet mallets and baseball bats are cheaper than a good set of golf clubs but I don't see people using them on a golf course. One can go bass fishing in an inflatable raft while using oars, or mountain biking using a cheap child's tricycle. The point of that is if it's only about price or the money it's the wrong hobby, or faction of the hobby, for those involved. |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
Tom
Good point! Initial cost shouldn't be the only factor in which one makes a decision on which motor to buy for sure! I think many of us look at the price of gas motors based on motor size as it seems to be the way things have been set up sales wise accross the board whether gas or glo. Also China VS. USA seems to be another reason for price differences and right now in many cases there are reasons for that in my mind. It does seem to be a bit high to pay in the $450.00 range for a 30cc motor made in China! Saito has entered that market with a $639.99 30cc not produced here in the USA so we will see how that works out! Though 4 strk. gas has to be appealing to many! But that is an expensive 30cc motor at $639.99 kinda makes our DLE 30's seem cheap at that point doesn't it? Anyway if Cyberwolfs (Cyberplate) works well and cures the problems I for one will have no problem paying for the Mod. at all and will enjoy the power of the little DLE 30! Again thanks Cyberwolf! |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
If by chance anyone would part with a rear case for a DLE30cc engine give me a PM please. I could use one in a experiment that I would like to try. Thanks Very Much Capt,n
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RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
Capt'n do what I did and buy one, there not expensive and you can cut it up, or make any mod you want to it.
Who knows you may actually need it some day for your own engine. |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man People get all bent about the cost of a gas engine. Something I've never been able to understand. They are coming over from glow power in droves. A place where bearings rust or frequently wear out and where 3 to 4 years is a reasonable life expentancy for a frequently used engine. A good gasser will last 20 years or more if not used make dents in terra firma. Amortize the up front cost and they are much cheaper than glow engines, and that's before factoring reduced fuel and plug costs. I had the same outlook once, but it didn't take very long after making the switch to gas to see how wrong my way of thinking had been. Shortly after that my glow flying ended forever. If I spend $1,000.00 or more for an engine that lasts me many, many years and effectively and reliably powers the planes I choose to fly I'm ahead of anywhere I would have been with a comparitively sized glow engine. Croquet mallets and baseball bats are cheaper than a good set of golf clubs but I don't see people using them on a golf course. One can go bass fishing in an inflatable raft while using oars, or mountain biking using a cheap child's tricycle. The point of that is if it's only about price or the money it's the wrong hobby, or faction of the hobby, for those involved. |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
And as for the buying a 450+ 30cc yes I would if it was what I needed and is a quality engine. I don't buy but 1 or 2 planes a year and all of mine are done as right as I can make them. I figure if I am going to shell out 200-300 on a maybe engine why not more for one that I know will be what I want. I have reserved a ESM Corsair and Next week will place an order for the Sierra's . I plan on using the DLE30 to power it. I will try it first with the side carb if it will fit but I do not want to cut it so I may have to purchase the Cyberplate. Cyberwolf How many do you anticipate making?
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RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
IM IN TOO!! need it for my DLE30 extra project.
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RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
I held one of those Saito 36's in my hands last week. Pretty girl, but tall and a bit fat.
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RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
Hi guys on the first run of these things I was trying to make sure that anyone that wanted one got one , but with all the double orders and more per person, It appears that another run of parts will be in order.
If you want 2 or more of these you will get them, just maybe not this first go around. There has been several late comers and I have lost track of the count now, well need to check my records to see where I stand. |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
I can't remember if I got back to you or not Richard. My friend didn't want one as of now, maybe later, so my order remains at one unit.
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RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
Cyberwolf,
I had very early sent you email declaring that I would like a 'Cyberplate' only one of them for now, And believed I was on your list. Are you now saying that I must buy two of them to get one??? Am I not on your list anymore?? MR G |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
He was just saying if you ordered more than one you may have to wait untill he can make more of them. If you only ordered one then no problem....
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RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
My apologies...I misunderstood his post.
MR G |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
Thanks Super, that is not a problem. Maybe I didn't make myself clear on things I don't know. I have been burning the candle at both ends here trying to get as much done as possible and its starting to catch up with me.
Sorry for any cunfusion Mr G your on the list so not to worry and also was one of the first. |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
1 Attachment(s)
Take a look at this, you can see the amount of material that needs to be removed to get a working item, BTW it is still not finished and that particular one won't be its junk, but makes for a good set up piece.
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RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
What are you maching them on?
L. Old machine guy! |
RE: DLE30 rear induction conversion!
A vice and a sidearm grinder, do the finish work with a peanut grinder and a file.
The last one was purdy darn close got it within a 1/8 of a inch of being flat, nothing a gasket can't absorb. And the angle was fair too, sort of a 45 on one side and a 30 on the other but who notices that sort of thing anyway. It will fit just like a sock on a broom stick *LMAOROTF* Just pulling your leg a little bit. A universal milling machine is what I am using, that and some hog mills you don't even want to think about getting anything you value close to. Actually they go faster than a person might think, total machining time to make the rectangle where the reeds will go is about 3 mins. Then a couple more to finish the 2 sides and cut the angles. I have not totaled out the time yet , but if anyone can make these parts for 25 dollars let me know, you got a job.*L*Oh don't forget the insulator block thats part of it. |
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