New EF1 ARF's by The World Models
11-20-2013, 12:21 AM
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I put the trim on the horizontal stabilizer this morning. I could not easily remove the silver from the top, so I just covered over it. I made sure to go over the area with the iron before putting the new layer on. I'm sure it added a few grams, but I didn't want to possibly mess up the stab. part of the issue was that the silver was really bonded to the white bottom covering. I think if I used heat and stripped all of the covering off, it would be a non-issue. But the new ToughLon may be harder to strip.
This was just a two short evenings of adding trim. I like it better than the solid color, Even as solid silver, the plane still looks good. I've seen some nice vinyl jobs on other planes and these EF1 planes will look sharp with a little more imagination than I put into it.
This was just a two short evenings of adding trim. I like it better than the solid color, Even as solid silver, the plane still looks good. I've seen some nice vinyl jobs on other planes and these EF1 planes will look sharp with a little more imagination than I put into it.
11-23-2013, 04:32 AM
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I bought 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" nylon spacers at Home Depot in the specialty screw drawers. I found 5/16" aluminum spacers at a local hardware store as well as the M3 x 30mm screws. I don't know that the nylon would hold up to the heat of the motor, but I wanted to get the dimensions I need and this was the easiest way.
It turns out that with the Arrowind motor, the Brodak Universal Mount and the bullet spinner that I need 9/16" from the firewall to the back of the mount. I will add a couple of washers on the left side for right thrust. The total measurement of the spacers in the mock up is .571"
Hobby Lobby sells these Spacers for motor mount so maybe nylon would hold up.
I am going to draw up a diagram for making spacers out of plywood that fit and will post that.
It turns out that with the Arrowind motor, the Brodak Universal Mount and the bullet spinner that I need 9/16" from the firewall to the back of the mount. I will add a couple of washers on the left side for right thrust. The total measurement of the spacers in the mock up is .571"
Hobby Lobby sells these Spacers for motor mount so maybe nylon would hold up.
I am going to draw up a diagram for making spacers out of plywood that fit and will post that.
Last edited by DonStegall; 11-23-2013 at 05:35 AM.
11-23-2013, 07:42 AM
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I bought 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" nylon spacers at Home Depot in the specialty screw drawers. I found 5/16" aluminum spacers at a local hardware store as well as the M3 x 30mm screws. I don't know that the nylon would hold up to the heat of the motor, but I wanted to get the dimensions I need and this was the easiest way.
It turns out that with the Arrowind motor, the Brodak Universal Mount and the bullet spinner that I need 9/16" from the firewall to the back of the mount. I will add a couple of washers on the left side for right thrust. The total measurement of the spacers in the mock up is .571"
Hobby Lobby sells these Spacers for motor mount so maybe nylon would hold up.
I am going to draw up a diagram for making spacers out of plywood that fit and will post that.
It turns out that with the Arrowind motor, the Brodak Universal Mount and the bullet spinner that I need 9/16" from the firewall to the back of the mount. I will add a couple of washers on the left side for right thrust. The total measurement of the spacers in the mock up is .571"
Hobby Lobby sells these Spacers for motor mount so maybe nylon would hold up.
I am going to draw up a diagram for making spacers out of plywood that fit and will post that.
Also nylon spacers are available at Lowes.
The nylon spacers work find, also available at Lowes.
11-23-2013, 07:45 AM
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[QUOTE=KEN 31;11669029]Don could you contact Airborne about providing two sizes of spacers, along with the longer M3 bolts, as the Shoestring and the Dara have two sizes of aluminum spacers.
Also nylon spacers are available at Lowes.
Also nylon spacers are available at Lowes.
11-24-2013, 06:55 AM
#31
I must say that I am quite impressed with mine. Looking forward to some decent weather to do some practice laps.
Pros:
Lightning quick assembly. I think you could keep one in the box as a spare and not worry about not having enough time to assemble it in time for the next heat.
Fit of all parts is pretty good. No fussing or modifying needed.
Pilot figure and spinner included. Although I would rather have an aluminum spinner.
Covering is well shrunk and adhered to the wood.
Removable tail.
Pre-drilled everything - even the control horns!
Blind nuts for the motor pre-installed.
Quick release hatch fits great and allows for quick and easy battery changes.
Airborne Models customer service is fantastic!
Cons:
Blind nuts pre-installed limits motor choices without modifying.
Silver/Red top, white bottom covering on the wings and stab should be reversed. The real planes of these models have white wings.
Fiberglass cowl and wing tips finish is only acceptable.
jw
Pros:
Lightning quick assembly. I think you could keep one in the box as a spare and not worry about not having enough time to assemble it in time for the next heat.
Fit of all parts is pretty good. No fussing or modifying needed.
Pilot figure and spinner included. Although I would rather have an aluminum spinner.
Covering is well shrunk and adhered to the wood.
Removable tail.
Pre-drilled everything - even the control horns!
Blind nuts for the motor pre-installed.
Quick release hatch fits great and allows for quick and easy battery changes.
Airborne Models customer service is fantastic!
Cons:
Blind nuts pre-installed limits motor choices without modifying.
Silver/Red top, white bottom covering on the wings and stab should be reversed. The real planes of these models have white wings.
Fiberglass cowl and wing tips finish is only acceptable.
jw
11-24-2013, 07:24 AM
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I made a video of the Scarlet Screamer airframe components this morning. It is at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcP1nnnyI8w
11-24-2013, 01:47 PM
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The issue is that there is a range and precision needed based on the motor, mount, and spinner. I thought I needed 30mm screws, but it turned out that 25mm screws were better and don't stick out the back of the firewall.
Thanks to Barry Reade, I found that McMASTER-CARR has 3/8" O.D. aluminum spacers in lengths from from 1/8" to 1/2" in 1/32" increments and sizes from 1/2" to 1" in 1/16" increments. Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/#unthreaded-spacers and click on Aluminum spacers.
What I did was put the motor on with 3/4' spacers, them measured the back of the spinner to the cowl to come up with right size for my combo.
They also have 100 piece packs of 3mm screws at $10 or less. You can find them by drilling down to the needed sizes at http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws
11-29-2013, 09:31 AM
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Here is an Electric Motor EF-1 Racing by Arrowind Item#BH-1834 with the Universal Motor Mount by Brodak Item#BH-1852 on it from the rear. Also shown is the O.S. .25 Brushless Motor 3820-1200 with the universal mount on it.
Due to the E-flite spinner going all the way back on the shorter shaft of the O.S., I need 5/8" spacers for it. Mine has 4mm connectors on it so I can easily switch out motors. The O.S. comes with 3.5mm connectors on it standard. The bearing on the back of the O.S. motor fits fine in the hole in the center of the mount.
I like the Arrowind motors, both the 1300 Kv and the 920 Kv, but the O.S. seems smoother to me. I have flown a number of motors on My Wingman II.
I have not tried the Great Planes Rimfire EF1 Race 35-45-1250kV Outrunner BL yet, but according to the specs, the mounting pattern will not fit the universal mount.
Due to the E-flite spinner going all the way back on the shorter shaft of the O.S., I need 5/8" spacers for it. Mine has 4mm connectors on it so I can easily switch out motors. The O.S. comes with 3.5mm connectors on it standard. The bearing on the back of the O.S. motor fits fine in the hole in the center of the mount.
I like the Arrowind motors, both the 1300 Kv and the 920 Kv, but the O.S. seems smoother to me. I have flown a number of motors on My Wingman II.
I have not tried the Great Planes Rimfire EF1 Race 35-45-1250kV Outrunner BL yet, but according to the specs, the mounting pattern will not fit the universal mount.
11-29-2013, 10:35 AM
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I have Eflite 25's, 1250 kv's and have found that they are smoother than the my Arrowinds, although the Arrowinds do smooth out with lots of running.
I also like the Arrowinds, but most hobby shops up here stock Eflites or can order for us. Thinking of putting an Arrowind in my Screamer, as I have a spare one.
How is the Outrageous coming along?
I also like the Arrowinds, but most hobby shops up here stock Eflites or can order for us. Thinking of putting an Arrowind in my Screamer, as I have a spare one.
How is the Outrageous coming along?
11-29-2013, 03:46 PM
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Ken
I have been busy with my new job. Got my new computer last week and got remote access on Tuesday. Matthew came home Tuesday night, and even though I was working remotely Wed and Friday (today), I've been too busy.
With my schedule the way it is, it will probably be about 2 weeks before I am ready. I am going to put one together and fly it before I make any more videos. I like having experience before I make the videos.
I did find time to edit a video of TWM Clipped Wing Cub 1/4 Scale - Part 2 - Choosing and Mounting the Engine and after I posted the video I found this video of Cub 1/4. DLE-30 that made me happy I chose the DLE-30 for mine. I had shot the video back on 11/11.
I did hear from at least one person that the pushrod tubes are tight on the TWM EF1 planes. Mine were stiff, but I found a way of helping the issue. I used a 30" long pushrod with a 2-56 threaded end and pushed the rod through the tubes several times. It helped. Then I got more brave and chucked the pushrod in a Dremel and ran it through the tubes several times. Really helped loosen them up.
I have been busy with my new job. Got my new computer last week and got remote access on Tuesday. Matthew came home Tuesday night, and even though I was working remotely Wed and Friday (today), I've been too busy.
With my schedule the way it is, it will probably be about 2 weeks before I am ready. I am going to put one together and fly it before I make any more videos. I like having experience before I make the videos.
I did find time to edit a video of TWM Clipped Wing Cub 1/4 Scale - Part 2 - Choosing and Mounting the Engine and after I posted the video I found this video of Cub 1/4. DLE-30 that made me happy I chose the DLE-30 for mine. I had shot the video back on 11/11.
I did hear from at least one person that the pushrod tubes are tight on the TWM EF1 planes. Mine were stiff, but I found a way of helping the issue. I used a 30" long pushrod with a 2-56 threaded end and pushed the rod through the tubes several times. It helped. Then I got more brave and chucked the pushrod in a Dremel and ran it through the tubes several times. Really helped loosen them up.
11-30-2013, 06:35 AM
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Where the push rod tubes bent to much where they exit the fuselage, this cause some binding. The Dara had this problem and I replaced them with the DuBro tube which has a larger diameter.
12-08-2013, 04:54 PM
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Ken,
I will make sure Fai knows about the pushrod issue and that it gets attention in the next production run. I have already mentioned it to him via email.
I haven't had time to work on my planes for the past couple of weeks. Matthew was home from Tuesday through Sunday the week of Thanksgiving. I spent as much time with him as possible. Did fly some micro helicopters and the Blade Nano QX quadcopter. If you don't have one of those things, you need it for the winter up there. I fly mine in the shop. Just have to make sure I don't hit any planes.
Last week I was working on getting the new versions of RC Calculators and Drill Bit Charts on Google Play and the Amazon Appstore for Android. All are approved now and only RC Calculators is waiting for deployment on Amazon. I was working on iPhone/iPad app development on the new Mac last week and this weekend. Finally have some iOS test apps on real devices now.
Please post those photos of your Scarlet Screamer in this thread on RCU. It looks sharp with your yellow trim.
I will make sure Fai knows about the pushrod issue and that it gets attention in the next production run. I have already mentioned it to him via email.
I haven't had time to work on my planes for the past couple of weeks. Matthew was home from Tuesday through Sunday the week of Thanksgiving. I spent as much time with him as possible. Did fly some micro helicopters and the Blade Nano QX quadcopter. If you don't have one of those things, you need it for the winter up there. I fly mine in the shop. Just have to make sure I don't hit any planes.
Last week I was working on getting the new versions of RC Calculators and Drill Bit Charts on Google Play and the Amazon Appstore for Android. All are approved now and only RC Calculators is waiting for deployment on Amazon. I was working on iPhone/iPad app development on the new Mac last week and this weekend. Finally have some iOS test apps on real devices now.
Please post those photos of your Scarlet Screamer in this thread on RCU. It looks sharp with your yellow trim.
12-12-2013, 08:33 AM
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I have an "Outrageous" and have no problems with the pushrods. I have built several WM planes and I have noticed that the metal pushrods that come with all of them need to be cleaned well. They come with some black gunk on them that is really thick sometimes. I just clean them with 91% isopropyl and spray a little silicon dry lube on them and they are just fine.
12-12-2013, 08:36 AM
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The new Hobby King EF1 motor is the same external dimensions as the Brodak. The HK X mount doesn't line up on a Shoestring or the Outrageous and either needs to be replaced or cut and redrilled to fit.
12-12-2013, 11:10 AM
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I picked up some Dubro 30" rods with the metric thread, #694, they are a little smaller in diameter than the 2-56 ones. They slide very easy, also I put z bends on the rods at the servos.
For clevises I use HAYES Q1131's with the steel pin. With this set-up there is no slop on the control surfaces.
For clevises I use HAYES Q1131's with the steel pin. With this set-up there is no slop on the control surfaces.
12-12-2013, 11:26 AM
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Brodak has the E F1 motor on sale now for $50.00 and the 60 amp ESC for $38.99. A nice savings.
12-21-2013, 08:28 AM
#45
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I finally got around to converting the shop to photo studio mode yesterday. Took a couple of hours.
These are pictures of the TWM Scarlet Screamer EF1 airframe components. I very carefully shrank the covering with a heat gun. You can't get ToughLon over 275 degrees or you will damage it.
These are pictures of the TWM Scarlet Screamer EF1 airframe components. I very carefully shrank the covering with a heat gun. You can't get ToughLon over 275 degrees or you will damage it.
12-21-2013, 09:34 AM
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Please rate this thread. 
Here are a couple of photos of the shop converted to photo studio mode. I'm shooting pictures for the AirBorne Models Showcase that is currently getting a makeover. I have to shoot pictures of the new LA Racer 40 with the aluminum landing gear and the battery hatch for electric conversion.
If you haven't seen this page Tim Adams Motorsports and Aviation Photography - National Championship Air Races - Reno, NV 2007 you can see the full size Outrageous and Scarlet Screamer. There is also a solid red Cassutt. I may build a constant chord wing for a SS and do this plane N-A-RUSH. I know low aspect ratio wings are not optimal, but I always wanted to kit build a full size Cassutt.
Here are a couple of photos of the shop converted to photo studio mode. I'm shooting pictures for the AirBorne Models Showcase that is currently getting a makeover. I have to shoot pictures of the new LA Racer 40 with the aluminum landing gear and the battery hatch for electric conversion.
If you haven't seen this page Tim Adams Motorsports and Aviation Photography - National Championship Air Races - Reno, NV 2007 you can see the full size Outrageous and Scarlet Screamer. There is also a solid red Cassutt. I may build a constant chord wing for a SS and do this plane N-A-RUSH. I know low aspect ratio wings are not optimal, but I always wanted to kit build a full size Cassutt.
12-21-2013, 01:12 PM
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I did the Outrageous today as well. I can only do about 2 planes a day. It is a lot of work shrinking the covering, cutting out the covering from the holes, and doing partial assembly. Then there is the taking of the photos and doing the arrangements. Hopefully the pictures help people know what to expect in the kits.
12-21-2013, 02:39 PM
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Barry,
The Scarlet Screamer has a more traditional Cassutt IIIM canopy and verical fin. The canopy as a painted area over the cockpit and the canopy is not as "sleek". The fin has a more vertical leading edge. The Outrageous has a wide open canopy and the fin is raked back more. I've posted the two photos that show the differences better than any of the other photos. Other than the hatch and the fin, they are the same plane. Both highly modified Cassutt's.
I'm also posting a group photo. Cool to have two virgin flying machines ready to put together.
The Scarlet Screamer has a more traditional Cassutt IIIM canopy and verical fin. The canopy as a painted area over the cockpit and the canopy is not as "sleek". The fin has a more vertical leading edge. The Outrageous has a wide open canopy and the fin is raked back more. I've posted the two photos that show the differences better than any of the other photos. Other than the hatch and the fin, they are the same plane. Both highly modified Cassutt's.
I'm also posting a group photo. Cool to have two virgin flying machines ready to put together.