Stevem9

so had a friend instruct me how the process goes..lay went nice and smooth, pulled it out of the bag this morning and had a hard time peeling the mylar off, i waxed it three time yesterday before glassing it. bagging machine set at 7", i remeber the guy at fiberlay saying to wax the mylar other wise it will stick..useing fiberlay's proglas 4:1 epoxy..might go pick up some west systems today and retry

this epoxy i have gets hot in the cup,the left over resin i leave in the cup get hot after about an 1hr or so, so hot i starts smoking. maybe thats why?

got to clean up the wing now so i can try once i firgure out what happen, any ideas?

so disappointed

Scorpion Racing

Hi Steve,
      What wax did you use on the Mylar? I would suggest using Partal Paste #2 wax or Meguiar's Mirror glaze wax, which are both made for composite lay-up and mold construction. Either of these will handle the heat build up much better than an automobile type wax. Your fiberglass store should have one or both of them and they are less than $20 for a big can.

      The heat build up in the cup is from there being a large amount of resin in it, I would guess. The thinner the layer or resin (like what is more than likely on the surface of your wing), the less heat it will give off. Also, a slower epoxy tends to stay a little cooler as it doesn't have to go off so fast. Try to keep the batch of epoxy you are using in a thinner layer and it shouldn't kick so bad.

      Don't get discouraged, once you get it figured out, you will love it!

daven

My Feedback: (1)

Steve, what is the working time of that epoxy, I am not familiar with it? Was it a laminating "slow cure" type epoxy??

I've been satisfied with EZ Lam 60, but others like west, MSG, etc...

Avaiojet

I've been sheeting foam wings and othercontrol surfacesfor over 25 years. Never used a vacuum bag and I don't think I never will.

Am I missing something here? I certainly would like to know.

Charles

Stevem9

well for the wax i used mothers carnuba automotive wax, i figured it would be ok..i know some other people have used simalar wax.

a friend mention that it may have started to kick off before i got eveything together, it only seemed like  5-10mins but it could have been longer, the thinner the layer of epoxy the faster it cures?

here is the specs on the resin(from fiberlays website, i have the med harderner):

Characteristics of Pro Glas Epoxy System

Pro Glas epoxy is a high performance epoxy resin which may be combined with three different hardeners for optimal performance in different applications. The backbone of the Pro Glas epoxy system is the 1314 Resin. It features 100 percent solids (no Volatile Organic Compounds), low viscosity (allowing fast and efficient wet out of reinforcement material), relatively clear (good for clear casting applications) and low odor and toxicity. It may be combined with three different hardeners, namely 3102, 3103, and 3143. LIQUID PROPERTIES OF SYSTEM Resin/Hardener type 1314/3102 1314/3103 1314/3143 Speed of Hardener Fast Medium Slow/flexible Mix ratio, resin to hardener by volume/ by weight 4:1/100:22 4:1/100:22 2:1/100:43 Viscosity, cps mixed 550 350 450 Gel time, minutes at 77degrees F 12-15 20-25 25-30 Set time, hours at 77degrees F 2 4 5 *Shore D Hardness 80 78 72 Suggested uses: F = fairing, L = laminating, A = adhesive F,L,A F,L,A F,L,A CURED PROPERTIES OF SYSTEM Heat distortion temperature, (HDT) (F) 145 145 145 Flexural strength, psi 16,000 16,000 10,500 Tensile strength, psi 9,000 9,000 7,000 Flexural modulus, psi 360,000 360,000 400,000 Tensile modulus, psi 475,000 475,000 360,000 Elongation, (%) 7.5 7.5 7.5 *24 hour room temperature cure

thanks for the replys

Stevem9

i picked up some west systems 105 resin with 206 hardener prob try that in the next couple days, ill prob pickup some mold wax too

Scorpion Racing

Steve, the thinner the layer of resin, the slower it cures. You can mix it in the cups, but I would get it on the wing or on a paper plate quickly to thin the film layer out. Once resin starts to kick and produce heat, it becomes a chain reaction and it all gos. That is why I suggest pouring it in a plate, or better yet, on the parts as soon as you can. The 12-15 minutes working time is pretty quick! The 15-25 may work if you can get it spread quickly.Thin layers and cooler temperatures will slow it some, but a slower resin would be better. I am one of the MGS guys, and I really like the long cure times since my weather is in the upper 80's to 90's most of the year. The 105 ~ 206 will give you very good results, and be a little friendlier to work with too.

Good Luck ...

Bill Vargas

My Feedback: (5)

for best results when using mylar is the 4 to 7 mil thickness. Its most common at Home Depot stores and its called painters plastic. It come in a variety of packages,,, its best to get it in the roll,,, folded up mylar will leave divots from the plastic where it was folded in your glass works.

never seen mylar stick to epoxy or visa versa,,, And you don t have to wax the plastic


BV

Scorpion Racing

Are we talking about the vacuum bag sticking to the wing, or using a Mylar sheet for a finish on the outside (finished side) of the wing? If it is the bagging that is sticking, Bill is correct you shouldn't have to wax it at all! If you are waxing and painting a sheet on Mylar to finish the outer surface wing, I think you need to wax the Mylar sheet.

Stevem9

the glass and resin sitcking to the mylar, when i tried to peel of the mylar sheet it came with the glass..most of the glass didnt stick to the wing. it stuck to the mylar.

heading over to my friends house to redo it, hes helping me with it this time around

Stevem9

got it done.. looks good, can wait to sand some spots and primer it.. thanks for all the replys!