hannes83

A MOKI - YES!!!

hannes83

Yesterday I workd on the throttle servo, the mufflers and the dummy radial.

Here are some pics:

n8622t

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Hey Nex, who did you buy the Moki from? Looks as beautiful as to be expected!

n8622t

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Hannes!!!!! I scrolled through your pics from the bottom up and thought it was real at first sight!!!!!!!! Man that look great...take the other pics out and leave the one with the prop mounted, nobody will know heheheh

nexusdc5

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Hey n8622t... I Bought mine From Gotz... From Areoscale. Very Nice guy. Very Informative. I Bought the Fuel pump for it as well, just a little insurance to keep it from going lean.

n8622t

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fuel pump? thats a new one on me, sounds like good insurance. I will look the web site up on this guy, I dont like to deal too much with Troybuiltmodels. thanks

nexusdc5

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Hey n8622t... Let me make it easy for you. Ill just give you his number. here it is... ( 919-533-6275 ) Personally I wouldn't buy from anyone else. Super nice guy. His Web site is ( vogelsang-aeroscale.com ) Its A dangerous Site, You can go Broke just visiting his web site! lol

n8622t

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Thanks Nex, LOL I know all about going broke over an r/c airplane

RichardGee

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Swinny,

Since I have only built mine with hatches, I cannot help you other than to suggest you clearence the attachment points on the wings just enough to allow either the threaded or the soldered end to recess snugly once bolted down (the threaded ends are narrower).

You will likely have to bend the brass ends somewhat to arrive at a perfectly straight shot to the fuselage holes.

The goal is to have your flying wires PERFECTLY straight to their attachment points; you do not want any bend or bowing in the flying wires when the bolts are snugged down.

EVERYONE - I HIGHLY recommend that once you have completed your flying wires and can snug everything up that you DO SO... REALLY TIGHT!!! Your inner cables (gear to fuselage bottom) should pluck like a guitar string[X(]. Let the plane sit like this for a couple of days; exercise the gear; simulate some rough landings. Your solder joints must hold and after a couple of days there should be NO SAG in any of your wires. If there is, one of more of your solder joints has come loose[&o]. YOU MUST FIX THIS BEFORE you fly your Gee Bee!

I just attended the AMA Expo in Ontario, CA and there were a couple of CARF-Models Gee Bee's hanging up.
Neither had yet been flown. Sorry for the poor picture quality (Blackberry camera)

Swinny

Richard,

Thanks for the reply, that sets my mind at ease that I'm on the right track. Now I just have to wait for the floods and the rain to stop so I can mop out my shed and get back to the construction!

Matt

RichardGee

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Measuring your Gee Bee's DIHEDRAL -

RichardGee

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Guys,
Sorry for the previous poor quality upload... trying again using different parameters.

I was able to adjust left and right dihedral to be EQUAL with both sides at just under 5 degrees. This was rather tedious, but at least that aspect of set up is now correct and can no longer be considered a variable for directional instability

TheRickster

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I used a $14.00 digital angle finder from Harbor freight on mine. Got the plane jigged up as level as possible with the meter on the spar inside the fuse and then Tare the meter. Then put it on each panel to verify the degree reading. I like the digital, it is easier to read for me than the analog sweep style..

Rick

n8622t

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Thanks for that info Richard, even I can understand it by the way you explained it Why doesn't Comp-Arf just build the wires for us? They could do as good or better a job than the rest of us and it would be worth paying for. I see no reason they couldn't pre-build adjustable flying wires for the kit. You have had more than one Comp GB, how much difference was there between the wires of each plane?

RichardGee

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There are probably many reasons CARF-Models does not build the flying wires for the kits.... not the least of which is LIABILITY[:'(][&o]
These hold everything together and a failure in the air will be catastrophic[X(][:@][:-]

I also believe there are enough production inconsistencies that it may not be possible to provide a 'standard' set of flying wires.

And just imagine... you would then miss out on all the "fun" of building your flying wires and adjusting dihedral...

nexusdc5

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Lol... yeah... that would be a shame! Lol...

n8622t

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Yeah, if you want something done rite, do it yourself...especially if it holds your GB wings on, LOL Oh well if you have to build them its just one more step in the process. Richard, I just reread the thread on page 20 of Fredo making his maiden and also watched the video on page 20 and its not a good read or a good video for first comers. the whole experience raised the hair on the back of my neck and thats just from watching a video and reading a thread[X(]

RichardGee

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I went back and watched the video again… the QUALITY of the picture is just awesome!
The flight, on the other hand, is hair-raising indeed[X(].
I am convinced this aircraft could benefit from some mixing… I just wish I could tell you what it is[]

In 34 flights I NEVER relaxed; but the SECOND+ flight of the day was always substantially less nerve-wracking than the first.

My favorite flying is 3D… when I see an accomplished 3D pilot doing a low rolling harrier with a 40% plane, I never tire of being ASTONISHED. And while that type of flying requires an incredible level of skill, it does not translate to being able to competently and confidently fly a scale Gee Bee R2.

My most enjoyable aircraft to fly is my 44% CARF-Models Giles 202; it is also my most expensive, so there is some level of nervousness based simply on the cost.
IF flying my Gee Bee is a 10 on the difficulty scale, flying my Giles in IMAC Basic; some advanced maneuvers; and landing, is a 2 by comparison!

It is no exaggeration to say that IF YOU CAN FLY A GEE BEE, YOU CAN FLY ANYTHING.

In an attempt to tame this beast, I am going to great lengths to set up my second as accurately and perfectly as possible. Maiden is getting very close…[8D]

xradarusa

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That video on page 20 gives me the creeps. Hey Richard, I really like that video over on youtube, the 7 minute one with psycho circus playing you did. Watch that all of the time. Keeps me going on the Hostetler. Great video. And thanks for your engine advice.

Alex

RichardGee

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Thanks much Alex!
The Hostetler is on my short-term BUCKET LIST

I am very hopeful (all digits crossed and recrossed) that my CARF-Models Gee Bee #2 will be flying within 2 weeks and eventually will be seen on YouTube, but this time, a MUCH nicer video, possibly with cockpit footage via my micro "spy" video camera[8D]

Keep us aprised of your progress on the Hostetler

RichardGee

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Just a quick update so as to keep keep a pulse on this thread...

With every intention of firing up the 3W157 yesterday and getting throttle and needles adjusted, I was dismayed with the amount of thread purchase (or lack thereof) in the top left flying wires. With about 3mm of flying wire threaded into the brass ends, I did not believe it would fail in flight, but WHY TAKE the CHANCE?[X(]
So, OUT came the top two flying wires to be re-soldered such that I could add about 3-5mm of length to both of them, thus creating additional thread purchase and a bit more peace of mind.
Of course, this required yet another round of dihedral adjustments as well as re-tensioning of all flying wires...
I now have adequate thread purchase on ALL flying wires; jam nuts and equal tension all the way around; and identical tension on both lower tensioning cables (they both strike the same 'note' when plucked)
GeeBee gents, this is a labor intensive, tedious process that will exhaust your patience if you lack a deep abiding passion for this plane. Being obsessed with the Gee Bee is a big plus as after construction, things only get more difficult...

Dihedral is set at 5.25 degrees - EQUAL on both sides. This is a bit more than factory drawings which show 4.5 degrees.
We are all a bit nebulous on the "sweet spot" for dihedral, as DirtyDingus is flying with less than 4.5 degrees and the model's designer believes the plane will handle better with more than 4.5 degrees... However, the general consensus is that whatever dihedral you set, make sure it is EXACTLY EQUAL on both wings!

I am going with a starting CG of 73mm from LE.
Oh, and decided to install a gyro on the rudder[8D]

Weather in my area is foggy and rainy so decent flying weather is elusive at this time...

btw: other than setting CG at between 75 and 80mm on my first CARF GB, I went through NONE of these dihedral checks and the damn thing actually flew pretty well, considering.... just LUCKY, I guess... Of course, after disassembly and reassembly, an engine change, and dummy radial addition, flight handling deteriorated badly. Trying to avoid this on GB #2.

nexusdc5

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Wow... there was so much activity on this thread not to long ago... Where did everybody go? Hey Richard... Thanks for the update. About two weeks ago my new Carf Gee Gee was delivered. But its out getting a Brand New Paint Job before I start the Build. Its Going to be Pearl White and Pearl Red! Decals are going to be airbrushed on to match the colors. Its Going to be Beautiful. Moki is standing by!

FormerCA.

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[X(] NICE calender bro!!!!

TheRickster

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nexusdc5 ,


I would advise you to go ahead and trial fit all feathers and make up at least your upper flying wires and open the locations in the fuse for said wires.. These tend to "Walk" as you hunt for the perfect location and I would want to do this before I did a repaint personally...

Rick

nexusdc5

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Rickster... I hear you, But I have a window of opportunity that I couldnt pass up. But I did expect that to be a possibility. When I get the plane back ill setup the fuse nice and level with each wing Propped up at 5.25 degrees and find the angle of witch the flying wires will exit and start from there. If i do it correctly the holes will be Minimal... Perfect! I wanted to get the seam lines completely smoothed over and New paint before the build started. Didn't want to build it, Fly it... Then tear it down again for painting.