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Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - [email protected]@K

Old 01-18-2020, 09:49 AM
  #1951  
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I'm using 18% (approx, 76mm) from the leading edge just outside the gear legs. You can't actually balance this plane at the wing root because the fillets interfere but since the leading edge is straight it's not a problem.
Thanks again Josh for the postings,

Last edited by 5th GeeBee; 01-18-2020 at 09:53 AM.
Old 01-20-2020, 03:26 PM
  #1952  
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Default Pilot

Gents,
IF you want the absolute ULTIMATE PILOT for your airplane, contact Sarah's Custom Pilots OR Hannes Speed Shop.. both on Facebook.
They're unbelievable!

The one in front is, of course, one of the greatest pilots to ever live - Delmar Benjamin.
The incredibly good looking pilot in back is.... yours truly

Old 01-25-2020, 03:10 PM
  #1953  
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Plumbing's done, Because I've got so much going on behind the removable dome and at some point I'll need to access it, I was forced to leave more excess tygon tubing than I'd normally like for the fuel line and smoke oil line. Hopefully, this will be the last time I mount the dome and engine before she flys. It does all lay in cleanly with no interference or pinched tubing. One more final balance, graphics and pin striping, and I'm off to the field to tune it,
My plan is to tune and taxi test at my local field. Tail wheel alignment is important on this plane as the landing speed is said to be in excess of 40mph and directional control after the tail is planted is critical for avoiding a flip or wing drag. I intend to maiden at one of two dry lake beds within a couple of hours of me. This will allow me unlimited altitude and landing run-out and will ensure I can land and take-off directly into the wind. I'm confident I can take off and fly this thing but the landings are an adventure and I'd like to get several under my belt before I try it on a paved 600' runway. Hopefully, Richard will join me there and we'll have a double GeeBee maiden event.

Mark
Old 01-25-2020, 04:21 PM
  #1954  
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Nice ready to these bad boys run!
Old 01-25-2020, 04:32 PM
  #1955  
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Old 01-27-2020, 01:27 PM
  #1956  
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About a quarter of the pin-striping and half the graphics done. I had to compromise the scale position of the 7 on the wing in order to miss the flying wire hatch. I used Prostripe vinyl pin-stripe tape from Autozone, less than $3 a 40' roll and it works well. (I had bought the Hangar 9 tape from Horizon and like you said Richard, it doesn't work very well and it isn't cheap.
Now it's starting to look like a Gee Bee!


Mark
Old 01-27-2020, 05:14 PM
  #1957  
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Old 02-01-2020, 09:39 AM
  #1958  
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Hey guys,

you like Delmar Benjamin? You own a Gee Bee R2? You need a pilot?

Here is the solution! We create a 31% Delmar Benjamin pilot head!

Like one? Send us a message :-D














Old 02-03-2020, 12:14 PM
  #1959  
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I'm not sure if I saw this before or it's an original idea but I can't think of a better way to store the flying wires when the wings are removed.
Had a catastrophic.servo failure on my Wilga yesterday. Perfect T.O. into a gentle left turn and at 50' it rolled on it's back and went in. Hard. I really enjoyed slow flying that thing. Had well over a hundred flights on it with no issues. Might have to build another one.

Everybody Crashes!!

Thanks again Josh

Mark
Old 02-03-2020, 05:08 PM
  #1960  
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Old 02-08-2020, 02:28 PM
  #1961  
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I've been re-reading the old threads on this plane the last few days. It sure used to have a lot more activity. Richard, your first CARF was certainly fraught with problems. Forget the throttle servo problems, losing engine bolts on a DA 150? Yikes!!

Mines done. Waiting for good weather.
Mark.
Old 02-09-2020, 11:10 AM
  #1962  
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Hi Hannes. I've been watching your videos for years. Mines complete except for some minor adjustments. You've apparently had a few CARF GeeBee's....What do you recommend for the throws and do you use differential on the ailerons?
Old 02-15-2020, 10:05 AM
  #1963  
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Originally Posted by 5th GeeBee View Post
Hi Hannes. I've been watching your videos for years. Mines complete except for some minor adjustments. You've apparently had a few CARF GeeBee's....What do you recommend for the throws and do you use differential on the ailerons?
Hi Mark,
yes, I use some differential on the ailerons.

Good luck with the maiden, please let your buddy take a video of it.

Best wishes,
Hannes
Old 02-15-2020, 10:08 AM
  #1964  
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So guys, the R1 cowling is in production, it fits like a glove on the CARF fuselage.

Like one? Send us a message: [email protected]





Old 02-21-2020, 05:15 PM
  #1965  
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tell us more about your 50% GeeBee.
Old 02-24-2020, 09:27 AM
  #1966  
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50% Gee Bee R2 by Hannes Speed Shop / Germany





Old 02-24-2020, 06:34 PM
  #1967  
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Oh My God! That things B****en" !! Engine??


Mark

Last edited by 5th GeeBee; 02-24-2020 at 06:37 PM.
Old 03-07-2020, 02:19 PM
  #1968  
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Default CARF Gee Bee R1

Gee Bee gents, I have received the R1 cowling from Hannes Speed Shop. It fits perfectly on the CARF 31% Gee Bee.
The cowl comes finished in what appears to be a smooth white gel coat and is ready for paint or detailing. There are no mounting points on the cowl, which is just as well since depending upon your engine and other factors, it is difficult to predetermine exactly where the cowl should mount.
As I have on past CARF Gee Bee's, I elected to mount my cowl from the rear of the aircraft instead of from the front. This is MUCH easier than trying to guide cowl bolts through the front cowl opening, especially if you have a dummy radial or engine baffling.
My mounts are all made from 1/4" aircraft ply. The cowl mounts have blind nuts embedded and are then faired with balsa, which will be glassed, as will the firewall mounting pieces.
The four firewall cowl mounts double as firewall anchors as well, bringing the total number of bolts holding the firewall in place, to 8.

Having the proper cowl shape is, in my opinion, CRITICAL to creating a correct R1. IF you look at the R1 and R2 cowls side-by-side, you will see there is a huge difference both in the shape and the cowl opening.
My only remaining unsolved puzzle piece is a proper dummy radial. Unfortunately, I am not finding a suitably sized P&W 1340 - which must be at least 13 inches in diameter to look correct.
Here are some pix of the cowl.
Next, priming, panel lines, and paint.











Old 03-07-2020, 02:58 PM
  #1969  
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Nice! I know it wouldn't be scale but it looks pretty good in white!


Mark
Old 03-08-2020, 01:53 AM
  #1970  
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Have fun with the R1 cowling Rich, can´t wait to see it painted!

Today I received my new CARF R2 kit, best CARF kit I ever had on the work bench - love the new quality!


Old 04-05-2020, 11:02 AM
  #1971  
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HI Everyone

Well I will be a newbie to this thread. I bought this kit from Richard a few years ago and am just now, with the motivation of imposed social distancing that most of us are faced with now, I thought this would be a good time to get started on it. Richard had done some small things to it, such as put a mount on the dome to prepare for, I take it a 3w 157 I do believe. I will be removing that as I will be powering this with a Moki 250. In 2019 I was running the Moki on Hangar 9 Su 26 to get use to the engine. Was interesting to go through a bit of prop selection to find out what would work well on an IMAC style of flying I do with prop planes, considering most of these engines seem to be on warbirds and not aerobatic airframes.

So anyways I have just started basically the build. I have installed the gear tentatively, installed the tailwheel. One thing that another fellow pointed, on this thread about the integrity of the fuselage roots where the main gear mounts on to, where it too, found it weak, and making divots into the side wall, I have reinforced with washers to build it back out flush again after dremeling out the profile of the circle shape.

I relieved the area in the wing root where the main gear was recommended to be relocated and feel I am close to a good fit there. I have installed the carbon fibre pins in the wing roots after propping up the wings close to 4.5 degrees on each wing. One thing here when using my incidence meter and removing it off the rail for use as a dihedral gauge instead of a true incidence meter, I find it hard to make sure that my needle on the meter has free action. Due to the natural profile of the wing it is hard to get the meter perfectly vertical sitting on the wing, so that jewel action on the meter is free moving and not being hung up. My meter is not digital obviously so it is important to have the needle read as accurate as possible. I was thinking of installing a small thickness of double sided black hobby servo cushion tape on the bottom of the meter, once I have located the sweet spot on the wing. Anyone think that this would interfere with the accuracy of my measurement.

Next I have cut out the areas on the wing skin that fully exposes the hard points where the flying wires will be connected to. I think I will attempt to make my own version of scale hatches for these. I may have availability to a 3 rendering by a friend for these. Will see could also use G10 or light ply. Any ideas from others? I have used the faint markings on the bottom of the wings for cut outs and transposed those to the top side, so everything is now exposed and will fine tune the grinding of the carbon fiber parts when doing placement of the brass fittings.

The next thing to work at is the dreaded flying wires that we are deeply admonished to keep absolutely perfect and so they should be considering no spars, just the pins and the wires to keep those wings on. I thought in reading the manual several times I had understood what I needed to do, but once I opened up the skinny long bag that housed the flying wires, I was baffled. First there was threaded ends on each end. My assumption before looking at the actual wires in my mind is that one end might have the pre made ends done but not both. Then you would just cut from the unfinished end. Also when I looked at that them and just laid it across the wing opening for the connection and over top of the fuselage and there was whole bunch sticking out then this really got me scratching for the grey matter in my skull. And on top of that there was only 4 of them.

I thought maybe Richard sent me the wrong flying wires, that these were for another project of his. I got a hold of Richard and we talked quit extensively about how yes the wires are threaded on both ends and that with very accurate measuring all the necessary material is there to complete the flying wire task. He was just great to talk to. From his writing of the manual for this rendition of the Gee Bee, to this thread that he watches and comments on, to his friendships with the actual pilot Delmar Benjamen that flew his version in our time, and to his overseas friend Hannes( that is just Gee Bee on steroids )- Richard is just all things Gee Bee. Thanks for helping me in this endeavour and the others you have helped with our discovery into the world of Gee Beeism.


We had a further chat about planning of battery systems and placement equipment trays and to keep it simple as Richard suggested. He said if you have had two successful flights with a Gee Bee in a day, that maybe all your system may be able to handle, and not giving yourself a medical condition. So with my usual install of big battery ampacities and power boxes and backers, that are a normal part of my turbine jet installations, they are just not needed here. With small control surface movements, similar to jets I may add, and not many flights per outing, we may keep this one just a bit basic. We are already having the big weight factor on board with the radial, I guess there is no since pushing it.

So like most people in these days, with the virus happening I have lots of time to be tedious as Richard says in the flying wire planning, soldering and installation. I will start on this part today. My plan is to lay out a piece of the wire, finish making my holes in the fuselage, get an idea where the hole will be on the former, then let the excess wire hang out through the cut out of the wing. I will place the brass fitting wing connection point and back measure accordingly to get where a tentative cut would be. I am then going to put masking tape where the cut is planned and mark it with a sharpie and then will measure my left over and see where that leaves me with the next one. I think I want to try it this way before I cut anything to make sure I am using the wire wisely and not running out. If all that looks good and have done it at least 3 times to confirm that I will cut my pieces and begin the soldering task.

I am debating of whether to use a small metal cutting chop saw to cut the wires. I was thinking of trying to keep them square. Richard said that he just uses a metal cutting wheel on a Dremel. If after all measuring, if I think the material wasted on the saw blade cut may make it short on the overall flying wire needed I may go with his suggestion. Will see.

Anyways this is where I am at. Don't know how far I will get with this project, this year, I would like to do a little more running in of the Moki on the Sukhoi this year to really get a good feel for it. It does sound great. I am still learning how best to start it. The first start of the day or cold start after long period between flights is always the worst. I think the biggest problem is just not getting enough fuel to it to begin with, event with it being pumped. Also weather here has not been great for flying anything off wheels yet. Sure would be nice to get some of the first flights into the new year. Seems like a long time ago that I was burning Jet A, gasoline or electrons. Mother nature didn't get told it was spring yet. So I guess make the best of it in the shop and do a bit of Gee Beeing.

As I progress I will try to remind myself about taking pictures. I know they how many thousand words a picture is.

Cheers
Alan
Old 04-06-2020, 08:28 PM
  #1972  
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Well not a lot work done on the build today. Had consulting job I needed to do in the afternoon, but some time in the morning and a little in the late afternoon, to do some work on things. I have a couple of pictures of where the fuse is jigged up to flying attitude to start the planning of the flying wires. In going over the layout of the wires it looks like that the bulk of the flying wire lengths will be for top front and rear wires and then the cut off sections will be for all the bottom wires, that look to be in the range of 22-23 inches in length (this is before the brass threaded connector is not even accounted for yet) when cut.

Also looks like that the cuts can be made on my metal cut off chop saw as the waste from the cut is not that critical for what will be needed for the lower wires. Top holes are drilled in the bulkhead so that the measure can be fairly accurate. The only other thing to account for is how much wire can be fed into the brass solder connector, before it runs to flattening modification to allow for mounting at the correct angle on the wing. May make the cut a tiny bit long on the first one to see where the wire finally seats into the connector before soldering. Would not want to be short here. After seeing how that first one works out for the measurement I should be able to tell how the next ones will need to be cut, with allowing that little bit of fudge room on the first.

Have made up all the brass solder connectors, by measuring the 10 mm from the end and centering the hole for a first 2mm hole and then for the final 4mm to finish it off. The brass on these are fairly heavy wall, so it is a good little work out for my bench vice to squish that all down flat, but seems to have worked out fine.

So tomorrow if not to many other things on the menu I will finalize the measurements and get ready to cut, prep and solder the connectors in place.

I haven't made up all the blocks for where the top inside wire connections are made on to the former. It looks the there are pre made squares of two different thicknesses, included in the kit for building the wires out from the former on the front side( from the pictures in the manual it looks like the build out might be 3/16- 1/4"). From the pictures in the manual I don't see any blocks that are added on tail side of the former. Has anyone added blocks on this side of the former. On the rear side of the former, the wire is coming in from the rear side of the top of the wing, so maybe blocks are needed there. Anyways maybe I will have a look with a mirror up there to see if there is any need for build out from the former from that side. Possibly may need some bending of the threaded brass connector on this one to make sure the flat part of the connector sits flat on the former.

I am including a couple of pretty sterile pictures here of where the fuselage is propped up with yes old telephone books that no one needs or wants anymore. I find them good for building things up from the building table and adding weight on top of things to keep them from moving around. I take most of those old books and run them through my band saw to get more of them that way. I know from past experience with mounting the Moki on the front of Su 26, they became very handy in holding it into place for placing and drilling the mounting holes.

That's all for now
Cheers
Alan


Working on those flying wires.

Duct tape is always helpful for most things in life, isn't it.
Old 04-11-2020, 06:39 PM
  #1973  
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Well I have had some slow progress over the last few days measuring and measuring and finally cutting the wires. Once I got out the order of which wires went where some of the went out the installation. So when I got all the top wires soldered and have used two types of torches in doing this. The first was a naphtha gas torch and it worked fairly well, but I felt it was blasting lot more of the flame as there is quit a big nozzle associated with it. So now that I am concentrating on the bottom wires I have switched to an oxygen/propane torch which has a smaller nozzle, which focuses the flame better on to the area.
Before I started the bottom wires I have also jigged the landing gear into plumb position with the building table. The gear doesn't seem to be going anywhere now, and when I get to the tensioning cable I think this will help this out as well.
I am including a few shots of the some of the top connectors.
That's all for now.

Cheers
Alan


Inside the fuse former mounting.

Right front mount.

Getting bottom mounting connector in place while the top is standing by.

Left wing connector temporarily in place. Lot's installing and uninstalling to get everything sorted out to make the proper adjustments.
Old 04-14-2020, 01:11 PM
  #1974  
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You should contact CARF. They now have a comprehensive photo-pictorial manual that will save you time. it's down-loadable.

Mark
Old 04-14-2020, 02:07 PM
  #1975  
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My Gee Bee R1 "bob-tail" is ready to fly.
The R1 cowl from Hannes Speed Shop in Germany, turned out REALLY nice.
I added panel lines and rivet details.
Paint is rattle can Rustoleum 'Apple Red' and it is about a 99% match to the CARF stuff (just much cheaper and easier to use)
Valach 120 for power; 33 pounds ready to fly.
No more excuses (well, perhaps one or two)...








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