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Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - [email protected]@K

Old 04-14-2020, 02:37 PM
  #1976  
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Best of luck on the test flight! Fantastic looking plane.
Old 04-14-2020, 06:16 PM
  #1977  
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Originally Posted by 5th GeeBee View Post
You should contact CARF. They now have a comprehensive photo-pictorial manual that will save you time. it's down-loadable.

Mark
Hi Mark
I have downloaded what CARF currently have on the website which is Richard's original manual. I have read previously that Andreas didn't have Richard update it which is a shame for those of you that have the newest kit. So unless there is something else out there on the website that I am not aware of I think I have it.

Thanks
AKB
Old 04-14-2020, 06:20 PM
  #1978  
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Originally Posted by RichardGee View Post
My Gee Bee R1 "bob-tail" is ready to fly.
The R1 cowl from Hannes Speed Shop in Germany, turned out REALLY nice.
I added panel lines and rivet details.
Paint is rattle can Rustoleum 'Apple Red' and it is about a 99% match to the CARF stuff (just much cheaper and easier to use)
Valach 120 for power; 33 pounds ready to fly.
No more excuses (well, perhaps one or two)...






Yes whole hardly agree good luck. Is this your number 2 version modified or is this a 3rd version with the mod added. That engine looks like it just came out of the box.

Last edited by AKB; 04-14-2020 at 06:37 PM.
Old 04-14-2020, 06:35 PM
  #1979  
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So now I am at this point finished with the cutting soldering making up the wires and the tensioning cable. The question here is when setting the final dihedral of both wings what should the normal procedure. Should I work with top wires first to set the initial wings at 4 1/2 degrees and then set the bottom wires taught with the top and then use the tension cables at the last to firm everything up. At this stage I am just getting everything to lock into place, this way I can add jam nuts where necessary so that all I need to do when taking apart for the field and in the shop is loosen off the tension cable bolts at the fuselage and remove them and after that remove the bolts out at the wings, to remove the wings and leave the made up fuselage connections fastened and just rest the flying wires beside the fuselage the way I see Richard do this. Today the first time at attempting this I just felt like I was chasing this procedure, where I would tighten one wire and then one of the others on that wing side would go limp. So like I say this still for my initial setting of the wing dihedral and getting the right tone out of my new guitar strings.

Oh and Richard in talking with Gotz today he felt that it would a good idea to start with SEP 32x18 to start with on the Moki 250. I guess he has Comp Arf Gee Bee new in the box that he still hasn't put together yet. He also had and interesting idea when talking about setting up a Gee Bee for landing to set up a switch to raise the two ailerons up to about 2mm, to keep these control surfaces functional, when getting closer to the stall speed. This is something we do with jets all the time which I am sure you are very familiar with, that is called crow. Several of my jets include this feature. Don't know if anyone had ever tried this with the GB. Obviously here we have no flaps as we would normally have with a jet.

Cheers
AKB

Last edited by AKB; 04-14-2020 at 06:47 PM.
Old 04-15-2020, 04:49 PM
  #1980  
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HI Gee Bee Crowd

Started working on gluing the servo trays together today.

I have laminated another 1/8 ply onto the back of the elevator servo tray to give a more secure feel to that part of the installation. Since it is advised in the manual to make these servos removeable for servicing reasons I am going to make them removable with a twist. With additional backing and just bolting them to the side of fuselage I feel I want add some more rigidity to that area, so I think will apply some Zap a Goo that will make it so that a little more work to remove the tray from the fuselage side when necessary, but anything from permanent, if epoxy was used.

One thing that I have noticed in this kit as compared to other Comp Arf kits that I have, is that the fibre glass quality seems a bit soft. When pulling in blind nuts to seat them into the wood it doesn't take a lot for the bolts to sink into fibre glass and become recessed which is not what I am trying to achieve here. This was defiantly significant when working on the bottom of the fuselage when securing the flying wires( as remarked earlier in this thread this was also noticeable went securing the landing gear to the fuselage wing root). This kit is an older one and Comp Arf may have changed there lay up process from what they did from the past. So I have added a maple filler where there was void between the finish surface and the block that is part of the flying wires set up, that was installed by the manufacturer.

Next on the list is to make the servo arm cut outs for the elevators in the fuselage and will also make mounting of the aileron servo trays on the hatches, once all my hysol has cured, so that everything can be measured and lined up.

So in looking down the manual and mounting the horizontal stab it talks about using CA to glue this in position,( will not do this until my motor install is complete so it can be sat on it's tail as per manual) but has anyone see a reason to not using hysol to glue this into fuselage cut out. I am not comfortable using just CA for this important structural area of this airframe. Reminder here I am using a Moki 250 out front, so was this put into the manual, when other lighter engine choices were available and a more popular and affordable selection. So in this case was there having to add more weight up front because of epoxy in this area the idea. Unless someone has some insight not use hysol when the time comes to install the stab, this will be the plan.

That's all for now.

AKB
Old 04-15-2020, 06:48 PM
  #1981  
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I built the updated version with Richards manual and the only reason I contacted Andreas was because of a couple of major deficiencies. He responded by sending me a locked file detailing pictorially an updated manual. You will find it helpful when doing the wheelpants, which are the most tedious and difficult part of the build.
Don't get me wrong, Richard has been indispensable and I have used his experience more times than I can tell you.
See if Andreas will send you the file. You won't regret it.

Mark
Old 04-15-2020, 06:53 PM
  #1982  
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Originally Posted by 5th GeeBee View Post
I built the updated version with Richards manual and the only reason I contacted Andreas was because of a couple of major deficiencies. He responded by sending me a locked file detailing pictorially an updated manual. You will find it helpful when doing the wheelpants, which are the most tedious and difficult part of the build.
Don't get me wrong, Richard has been indispensable and I have used his experience more times than I can tell you.
See if Andreas will send you the file. You won't regret it.

Mark
Thanks Mark
Information is not a bad thing. I will give it a try.
Old 04-17-2020, 08:19 PM
  #1983  
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Some more progress today as I finished mounting the servo trays on the aileron hatches. Awaiting my servo order to finish that placement, plus the push rods to finish that off.

Also finished the layout of servo horn exits on the elevator servos and that helped get proper alignment of the elevator trays that were drilled and again awaiting servos for that will be installed for that portion. Push rods will made up for those control surfaces when the servos are placed.

The last thing I worked on in shop today was removing the mount that Richard had installed for his 3W from the dome. About an hour with my hot knife was able to take this off fairly cleanly. Good glue job Richard it was on very securely.

Another thing that will need to be removed from the back of the dome is platform that was going to be used for the ignition. With the weight of the Moki my ignition will be installed on the manufacturer's equipment deck. Once the dome has been finished making room for the Moki, it will be time to plant this big barrel on it's tail to layout the engine install.

Dennis from Kirby's Kustom Graphics accepted my order today for my R2 graphics set. It's been a while since I have gone through Dennis for my last order with him. Great fellow to deal with and one of the true gentleman of our hobby. Will try to get some pictures going of what is happening next time out.

Cheers.
AKB
Old 04-17-2020, 10:38 PM
  #1984  
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You can attach the cowl to the dome and position the engine on a table-top rather than standing the plane on it's tail. If the old version comes with an un-drilled dome then drill and mount it first... then table top position the engine. It's much easier, more precise and can't damage the rudder mounts. Your going to use the cowl to center the engine anyway.


Everybody crashes'
Mark.

Last edited by 5th GeeBee; 04-17-2020 at 11:54 PM.
Old 04-17-2020, 10:40 PM
  #1985  
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Just be sure you've positioned the dome for right thrust and no down.! I say this because the new version comes clearly marked for the dome top. The older version isn't marked, I believe.

Mark

Last edited by 5th GeeBee; 04-17-2020 at 11:19 PM.
Old 04-18-2020, 07:25 AM
  #1986  
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Thanks Mark. I wasnít exactly whole heartily excited about having this behemoth on itís tail. That will make the line up so much easier.
Old 04-18-2020, 06:48 PM
  #1987  
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We had some good progress today. Worked on the removing the 3W extension from the dome. Also from the back of the dome removed the deck for the ignition box and probably an ignition battery pack.


Here is the 3W extension mount removed from the dome


So this is the product so far with most of the dome cleaned up. Will decided about painting when the layout is done for the Moki

Here is the back of the dome of the what was installed to accomodate the 3W.

Here is with everything removed except the servo tray, which I am to use where it is positioned now, if not it will be relocated

These are all the parts that were removed from the dome.
to fit the Moki.
Old 04-18-2020, 06:53 PM
  #1988  
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The other part of the morning and early afternoon was spent working on prepping for the rudder servo tray and the forward fuel tank tray.

Overhead shot of the rudder servo tray. It has been tacked together with CA and then full fillets of hysol are run down the inner seam.
Old 04-18-2020, 07:04 PM
  #1989  
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Once the items were all removed from the dome, I pulled out Richard's cowl that he had done a lot of work on, complete with decals. In taking an initial look with cowl over top of the dome, in the pictures I am loading, you will see where it has been painted, and Richard's traditional way having fastening tabs that are accessible from back of the cowl have already been installed. This saving me a lot of work, having to add this feature myself. Hope you will be able to see some of the details as it get's fairly dark inside.

Good looking signature GB cowl.

Hope you can make out the cowl sitting over top of the dome with one of the fasteners of looking in line for where it needs to be.

Here is another one that is a bit fuzzy, but hope you get the general idea. I can take another set if others want to get a better detail.
Old 04-18-2020, 07:08 PM
  #1990  
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The last pictures are of the work that was done of Friday, of the servo trays for ailerons and the elevators.




That's all for tonight.

Cheers
AKB
Old 04-20-2020, 08:01 PM
  #1991  
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Well we were back at it again today. Worked on the rudder equipment tray and the fuel tray. Both were sanded primed and painted and now ready for what goes on them.

It was great day outside, so it was idea painting conditions for doing this work today.

Also did a little reinforcement of the dome that will need some blocks on the inside that will aid in the fasteners not moving around when or pulling through the dome.

So I laid down 4 carbon fibre triangles and laminated with 20 minute epoxy and thinned with isopropyl.


So this is what she looks like unfinished.

Rudder tray with primer.

Both trays with the finish coat on.

Sanding inside dome.

Carbon fibre applied and waiting to be cured by tomorrow.


Thats all for now folks.

Cheers
AKB




Old 04-28-2020, 08:14 PM
  #1992  
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A little more done on the GB over the last few days.

So prepped and glued the elevator horns in place on the stab. The next thing to do was bring the Su 26 home from storage so I can do a transplant of the Moki.

The engine baffle was sanded and was painted with black manifold paint, so that is ready to go now.

I put the blind nuts in the fuse for the motor dome so that is ready to go. In dry fitting the Moki on the dome, I decided to make a 1/8" aluminum ring that will sit between the engine mount and the dome, to make a good hard surface. Also as I was trying to line things up properly on the dome for the motor, I decided to do the manual recommendation of setting the fuselage on the tail to make sure everything is lining up well. I set the tail on some 1" blue high density foam and have a ratcheting tie down system that is looped to my building bench which seems to make the fuselage fairly steady.

Now with the fuselage set up with the dome installed, the Moki sitting on the dome and the cowl blocked so that it is equal distant around the dome, I seem to be getting a good idea, on how it will work out. The only part about this that is, it's a little funny having to climb up on a step stool to eye everything out, but not the first time I have had to do this airplane construction.

So the way things are lined up right now, the one support ply that is glued into the back of the dome is right in the way of the carburetor flow and mounting bolts, so I am cutting that out partially for now so that I can get the bolt holes prepped and drilled. Once I drill this and am happy with it, I will put new supports in for the dome integrity and some sort of plywood backing for the fasteners at the back of dome.

Pictures of this work.


Baffle getting one coat, two coats, three coats done.

Elevator horns glued in and drying.

Think that will work.

Baffle is dry and ready once the motor and cowl are finalized.

Moki on the dome for the first time.

Looks like the right engine for this plane I think.

Aluminum 1/8" ring to add.



Cheers
AKB
Old 05-05-2020, 06:43 PM
  #1993  
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Well update from the last post. As the original supports for the dome interfered with the engine mounts of the Moki, I removed the other one and replaced that one with two others as the reinforcement will be wider apart now because of where the engine mounts go. So the new supports are made of 1/4" ply and are glued in with hysol and milled fibre to make a very substantial joint.

Next needed to get the servos mounts in position for controlling the choke and throttle. These seemed to mount best where they bridged over top of my newly installed dome supports. With the choke servo, to get the proper geometry, I needed the mount to be installed about 45 degrees to the supports.

So the next thing on the list was installing the mounting for the cowl. Looked like this should be done before the baffle, so that all would line up properly. I am using Richards suggested method, of using the fasteners for securing cowl from behind. Good suggestion Richard, as I think this is so much easier then coming from the front. The cowl tabs were made from 1/4" ply and are fastened to the dome with 4mm cowl bolts plus I have some fine #2 counter sunk self tapping screws to secure from the inside of the dome. Seems quit solid at this point. Toying with adding some hysol to these tabs where they contact the dome as well. Will see.

Drilled a hole with my step up bit for the microphone connector for the ignition of the engine which will also be used for the grounding strap of the motor. I have some large grommets for certain installations, so this will added to bush the hole for the integrity of the insulation on the cable.

Other than drilling a hole for the fuel line and that may be it for the dome. I was thinking about dressing up the dome a bit by filling some past installation holes that are not being used with the filling compound of " icing " and giving it a quick shot of PPG Omni base coat/clear coat. What is great here is that the paint code for the Gee Bee red and I think the white too is the same as my Composite Art Tutor, which I already have pretty good paint match with. So will see what I have time for. But before that we need to get the baffle in place that will be installed permanently into the cowl, so that when the cowl is removed everything comes out together.

Here's a few pictures of what was done this time.


Here are the new supports tacked in place with hysol and awaiting a full glue fillet.

Her is a shot from overhead with the cowl tabs positioned into place, before putting on the cowl for the upteened time lining things up.

Servos pushrods and trays are all in place here and seemed to be working well.
In this photo you will also see where I have added 1/4" backing for the 5mm fasteners. Don't want that big Moki shaking around up front.

Last edited by AKB; 05-05-2020 at 06:53 PM.
Old 05-08-2020, 07:42 PM
  #1994  
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I notice your using Dubro quick links on the throttle and choke servos. My IMAC friends laugh at me when I use them but They are easy to adjust and very reliable..I've never had one slip or fail. I'm all ball-link all the time.... except when I'm not.


Mark
Old 05-08-2020, 07:54 PM
  #1995  
AKB
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Originally Posted by 5th GeeBee View Post
I notice your using Dubro quick links on the throttle and choke servos. My IMAC friends laugh at me when I use them but They are easy to adjust and very reliable..I've never had one slip or fail. I'm all ball-link all the time.... except when I'm not.


Mark
Hi Mark
Yes I have probably used kwik links in some form or fashion for about 40 years and never had them slip either. I may have even used them is jet sometime as well.
Old 05-20-2020, 07:10 PM
  #1996  
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Well been a little while since I posted last. Not that things aren't happening, I just find that there's not lot of interaction on this thread, but anyways, we will continue (ever wonder what it is like being a DJ on a radio station at 3am, I think this is it). Have finished building and painting my triple decker component tray. Probably more equipment than some people would use, but I have used redundant battery and backer systems, since I have gone giant scale many moons ago. The other thing that I am using is the Power Box Spark Switch Pro (optic kill switch) and I am going with an Igyro SRS.

Since reading this thread for about the 4th time, people have been all over the map on gyros with the GB. My basis for using the gyro is for the longevity of the airframe. I will take any flaming for not being a purist about having lighting speed rudder inputs. I know how to use a rudder, I just could be a little faster with my application and from reports I have read the inputs that are needed can be quit abrupt and evasive at times. Who knows that my story and I am sticking with it.

Also spent some time making up servo extensions and installing them in the fuse today.

Next plan on prepping for the wind screen, cockpit area and pilot.

Here's some pics.


Equipment tray preliminary layout.

More components less the fuel pump for now.

Some wiring started.

Last edited by AKB; 05-21-2020 at 06:30 PM.
Old 05-23-2020, 12:06 PM
  #1997  
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I never use gyros but on this beast I intend to maiden and get competent using a Demon Cortex. It has 2 modes and off on a 3 position toggle and is easy to change the gains. Richard indicated to me that when you see a guy flying his GeeBee smoothly, they almost always are using a gyro.


Mark
Old 05-23-2020, 06:36 PM
  #1998  
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Yes Mark I am thinking if I have a chance on this one, hopefully a gyro, will help out. By the way forgot to tell you I did get the photo file from Andreas. It is very helpful. Lots of pictures obviously, no text to go with them, probably the pictures do a good job with out it.
Old 05-23-2020, 10:13 PM
  #1999  
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Glad to here it

Mark.

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