Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
#2076
#2077
#2078
Our Gee Bee story incl. CARF R2 building thread is available now!
Thank you to Uwe Puchtinger from FMT for the great collaboration.
Order it printed or as an online magazine, KLICK: https://shop.vth.de/fmt_01_2021-0102101/
Thank you to Uwe Puchtinger from FMT for the great collaboration.
Order it printed or as an online magazine, KLICK: https://shop.vth.de/fmt_01_2021-0102101/
#2079
It had a stamped thin sheet metal support that I tried to solder to make it more rigid. You can see what I received on page 76.
Last edited by 5th GeeBee; 12-30-2020 at 09:07 AM.
#2085
Hi Hannes. If the metal T.W. assembly in your picture is what you've been getting from CARF, it explains why you've had no problems. The one I received had a cheap plastic base and horn. Your new one looks good. I would've bought one if I hadn't already gone to the original Fults.
Mines ready to maiden. just waiting for the right wind.
Could you post all of the control throws you use and include how much differential? It would be much appreciated.
Mark
p.s. I've had to update my tire as well. Got tired of it going flat. Have you tested the new TW assembly yet?
Mines ready to maiden. just waiting for the right wind.
Could you post all of the control throws you use and include how much differential? It would be much appreciated.
Mark
p.s. I've had to update my tire as well. Got tired of it going flat. Have you tested the new TW assembly yet?
Last edited by 5th GeeBee; 02-03-2021 at 09:46 AM.
#2086
Hi Hannes. If the metal T.W. assembly in your picture is what you've been getting from CARF, it explains why you've had no problems. The one I received had a cheap plastic base and horn. Your new one looks good. I would've bought one if I hadn't already gone to the original Fults.
Mines ready to maiden. just waiting for the right wind.
Could you post all of the control throws you use and include how much differential? It would be much appreciated.
Mark
p.s. I've had to update my tire as well. Got tired of it going flat. Have you tested the new TW assembly yet?
Mines ready to maiden. just waiting for the right wind.
Could you post all of the control throws you use and include how much differential? It would be much appreciated.
Mark
p.s. I've had to update my tire as well. Got tired of it going flat. Have you tested the new TW assembly yet?
yes, everything tested and checked.
If you use the control throws told in the manual (written by the Gee Bee expert Richard Geertson) and you will have a good flying airplane.
So, no more time for excuses - fly it!
Hannes
#2087
Junior Member
Hi everyone Geebee man I just ordered my Geebee from carf delivery April / May I am really happy since the time I wanted to make one: D. Unfortunately, the instructions on the CARF site are completely incomplete. No CG, No adjustment for the wings, No breaker or engine torque for the new engine dome. I'll put a DA150 or DA150L in it. Do you have any advice to avoid breaking it on the first flight please?
#2088
Mark.
#2089
Hi everyone Geebee man I just ordered my Geebee from carf delivery April / May I am really happy since the time I wanted to make one: D. Unfortunately, the instructions on the CARF site are completely incomplete. No CG, No adjustment for the wings, No breaker or engine torque for the new engine dome. I'll put a DA150 or DA150L in it. Do you have any advice to avoid breaking it on the first flight please?
If you contact CARF, they now have a digital pictorial file that is very complete and very helpful. It's a locked file and can't be forwarded except from CARF.
Also, using the center lower crossmember in the fuse as a level reference, the wings should be adjusted to 4.5 deg each (dihedral). When you have adjusted the flying wires for this, you should, as a precaution, use an incidence meter on two points on each wing to identify if the flying wires, when tensioned, are causing wing-twist. C.G. is 18%, which comes out to 75-76mm from the leading edge. If you look closely, you'll see that the dome has a "T" molded in indicating the top. The separate dome "cap" is for smaller engines and won't be used. Right thrust is molded in also. No down thrust is required. I hope this helps.
Mark
p.s. As for avoiding a crash, landing is said to be the hard part. There's a bunch of flight videos on youtube (mostly Hannes) that I have watched repeatedly. I'm also going to use a Demon Cortex Gyro.
Last edited by 5th GeeBee; 02-05-2021 at 12:16 PM.
#2090
Hey guys,
here the manual as a pdf:
CARF Gee Bee R2 Manual.pdf
CG is 73mm and the dihedral is 4.5 deg.
That´s all you need to get the Gee Bee succesful in the air and back on the ground.
And now, stop talking - GO flying!
Hannes
here the manual as a pdf:
CARF Gee Bee R2 Manual.pdf
CG is 73mm and the dihedral is 4.5 deg.
That´s all you need to get the Gee Bee succesful in the air and back on the ground.
And now, stop talking - GO flying!
Hannes
#2091
If you contact CARF, they now have a digital pictorial file that is very complete and very helpful. It's a locked file and can't be forwarded except from CARF.
Also, using the center lower crossmember in the fuse as a level reference, the wings should be adjusted to 4.5 deg each (dihedral). When you have adjusted the flying wires for this, you should, as a precaution, use an incidence meter on two points on each wing to identify if the flying wires, when tensioned, are causing wing-twist. C.G. is 18%, which comes out to 75-76mm from the leading edge. If you look closely, you'll see that the dome has a "T" molded in indicating the top. The separate dome "cap" is for smaller engines and won't be used. Right thrust is molded in also. No down thrust is required. I hope this helps.
Mark
p.s. As for avoiding a crash, landing is said to be the hard part. There's a bunch of flight videos on youtube (mostly Hannes) that I have watched repeatedly. I'm also going to use a Demon Cortex Gyro.
Also, using the center lower crossmember in the fuse as a level reference, the wings should be adjusted to 4.5 deg each (dihedral). When you have adjusted the flying wires for this, you should, as a precaution, use an incidence meter on two points on each wing to identify if the flying wires, when tensioned, are causing wing-twist. C.G. is 18%, which comes out to 75-76mm from the leading edge. If you look closely, you'll see that the dome has a "T" molded in indicating the top. The separate dome "cap" is for smaller engines and won't be used. Right thrust is molded in also. No down thrust is required. I hope this helps.
Mark
p.s. As for avoiding a crash, landing is said to be the hard part. There's a bunch of flight videos on youtube (mostly Hannes) that I have watched repeatedly. I'm also going to use a Demon Cortex Gyro.
Hey guys,
here the manual as a pdf:
CARF Gee Bee R2 Manual.pdf
CG is 73mm and the dihedral is 4.5 deg.
That´s all you need to get the Gee Bee succesful in the air and back on the ground.
And now, stop talking - GO flying!
Hannes
here the manual as a pdf:
CARF Gee Bee R2 Manual.pdf
CG is 73mm and the dihedral is 4.5 deg.
That´s all you need to get the Gee Bee succesful in the air and back on the ground.
And now, stop talking - GO flying!
Hannes
#2092
That pdf Hannes showed is the same one that's on their website. There's a more detailed one available as an electronic file directly from CARF. Contact them and they'll send it to you. .
This is not to disparage Richards manual. It's excellent. The kit has been updated. however. and the new pictorial version has a few tricks that make assembly a lot simpler.
Read AKB's post #1998 on this page.
This is not to disparage Richards manual. It's excellent. The kit has been updated. however. and the new pictorial version has a few tricks that make assembly a lot simpler.
Read AKB's post #1998 on this page.
Last edited by 5th GeeBee; 02-06-2021 at 03:50 PM.
#2095
Do you think it must be stiffed?
In my opinion there’s no need as the mounting plate backside of the engine is bridging the cutouts and creating kind of a torsionbox.
Only weak point is the dome itself which used to be bit wobbly in all directions. I remember my first fiberclassics Gee Bee without the stringers fiberglassed in the dome where you could bend the motor-shaft 5mm up and down. But this was quite a few years ago and is an old story.
Hannes, keep on rockin’
In my opinion there’s no need as the mounting plate backside of the engine is bridging the cutouts and creating kind of a torsionbox.
Only weak point is the dome itself which used to be bit wobbly in all directions. I remember my first fiberclassics Gee Bee without the stringers fiberglassed in the dome where you could bend the motor-shaft 5mm up and down. But this was quite a few years ago and is an old story.
Hannes, keep on rockin’
Last edited by rexmexx; 02-18-2021 at 03:27 PM.
#2100
Junior Member
Thank you for the information I get as much information as possible before receiving the plane. It will be fitted with a DA150cc pitts exhaust. So the T will be the upper part of the motor dome. I contacted carf I am waiting for their return, probably when the plane will be delivered.