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Failsafe Switch

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Old 10-31-2017, 01:06 PM
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Bikerboy53
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Default Failsafe Switch

Hey all,

Not sure if this question has been answered or if it is even in the correct forum, but here goes anyway. I'm looking to build a failsafe circuit OR convert a double "miracle" switch to use as a failsafe, is this even possible?..if so, then I would entertain any and all ideas in terms of how to do this.

Thanks in advance

Biker
Old 01-03-2018, 07:33 PM
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DGrant
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Most modern radios have some sort of failsafe circuitry built in. When programmed correctly it would do anything that you might need... like kill the engine, or go to idle, etc.. I'm not sure what else you might be looking for in a failsafe device really. Most failsafes I'm aware of will engage when either the signal is lost, or the voltage drops below spec,

Curious what other type of failsafe your contemplating. I'm under the impression the idea of failsafe is to disable the plane and flight and the controls go to a preset position to prevent flyaway, and/or property damage. I set mine in every aircraft to kill the engine, although it's never engaged on me during flight... I do know it works, as I've tested it in the field by simply turning off the transmitter while the engine is running... and the engine dies... albeit I have an optical switch to the ignition through the radio as well, that fully enable this to occur. There are some inexpensive devices that you can easily hook up to a channel in your radio that arm/disarm the ignition that will work in conjunction with a radios failsafe.. if that helps..

So other then that, I'm curious to know more about what your needing, or looking for in a failsafe system, as well as responses from others on it as well. Good luck with it.
Old 01-04-2018, 06:08 AM
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ahicks
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Conventional RC battery switches are a sliding type that have a tendency to be self cleaning (usually). The Miracle switch uses a set of contact point type switches to make and break the circuit. Many, myself included, are a little shy of the Miracle switches for that reason. They do look great. I have one sitting in a drawer that I'm too shy of to use.

If I were to try using it, it would be with the switches wired in parallel, so if one did fail or become erratic, I'd have back up power from the other.

There have also been some failures on the back of the switches at the solder joints, which are unsupported. Solder joints in a high vibration environment are a strict no-no, and pretty much forbidden on full scale. I think here, with those failures in mind, the wires can be supported in a manner where failure is minimized. My thought anyway, -Al

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