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Kangke Monocoupe 90 Build Tips

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Kangke Monocoupe 90 Build Tips

Old 12-05-2003, 12:18 PM
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famousdave
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Default Kangke Monocoupe 90 Build Tips

Kangke Monocoupe 90

After months of waiting patiently I finally got it!!

So I just completed this amazing model and thought I would post a few tips here for anyone who is putting one together, or is thinking about it. #1 > This is an amazing model for an ARF. It has the best construction, best quality and best looks of any ARF I have come across, in fact I was so impressed by it (and Kangke) that I immediately ordered a CAP 232 120 (to go with my RCS 180 engine that I puchased and discovered was too big for the Monocoupe). I would not recommend this kit to someone who does not have very good modeling / construction skills. There are some tricks needed to assemble it correctly and fitting an engine takes considerable time and patience.

The hardware:

Most of it is above average. The control horns are awesome, and they even include stainless steel clevises with lock nuts.. very cool (don’t forget locktite). The wood screws, tail wheel assembly and wheels however are a different story. TOSS THEM. I think the wood screws are made of lead. The heads strip out even under the slightest resistance, get some good ones at the LHS. . The tail wheel assembly is just not up to par with the airplane, its hard to assemble, and is basically a piece of junk. . Spend a few $$ and get a nice Dubro set, or best yet a Dave Patrick Ultra tailwheel. The wheels, at least on mine, were like flat tires. The ground resistance was so high that it took nearly full throttle to taxi. Needless to say, takeoffs were hairy, it was like the brakes were on. I tossed them after one flight and went with Sullivan Ultralight wheels. Huge improvement... $20 well spent.

The manual : I’d give it a 3 out of 5. The pics are not super clear, and some of the steps are not logical. As I had mentioned, the cowl should be the last thing fitted, not the first. I used intuition more than the manual to assemble this plane. This is not too uncommon though , and for the most part, it was easy to follow. Since I have built so many kits over the years, I rarely use the manuals on ARFs for anything more than the pictures. Below are the faults I have found though.

There is no prop-flange to firewall spec stated, so sizing an engine is impossible until you actually get the model. I purchased an RCS 180 (installed length = 7.25”) only to find out that the maximum flange-to-firewall dimension is 6.25 inches. I had to choose between hacking the firewall or changing engines. I went to a Zenoah G26 instead and saved the 180 for the CAP 232 .

The manual has you fitting the cowl in the very first step. DON’T DO IT!! DON’T drill the cowl mounting holes until AFTER your engine is installed and any holes are drilled in it for clearance of exhaust, choke lever, plug wires, etc and the cowl is aligned. The cowl should be the last thing fitted not the first. I ignored the manual on ‘gut feeling’ and fitted the cowl last and am glad I did. I would have ruined it by having extra holes drilled in it had I followed the manual as I had to move the cowl around considerably to get it to fit right. .

The manual states that the pull-pull cable system can be crossed over or not crossed over. Well, I did not cross mine over and the cables bind against the wood structure in the aft fuselage. Do yourself a favor and cross the cables!!! Make sure you insulate them where they cross so you don’t end up with an RF generator from rubbing cables. I had to cut the wood away from the cables to free them up and by doing so, the cables went slack. I ended up cutting them out anyway and buying a new DuBro pull-pull cable set with insulated (vinyl coated) cables. I reinstalled them crossed and they work perfectly now with no binds. I set up the rudder and control arms to be the same width (i.e. no Ackerman) and I get no slack in the cables in either deflection.

The manual has you glue the landing gear fairing on the gear strut, doing so precludes you from opening the hatch to access the rudder pull-pull servo. I cut the fairings on the bottom to clear the strut. While this does not look the greatest, no one sees it anyway. Trust me, you will be going back into the hatch at some point, so either put it on LAST, or cut the fairings to clear the gear struts! If you install the fairings and glue them, you will destroy the hatch and its covering trying to remove it later... don't ask me how I know that.

Other build tips:
Don’t mount the tank using the “sticks” as the manual suggests. Instead, use the sticks to make a mount similar to the servo rail in the radio bay above the throttle linkage at dash-panel level. Cut a 1/8 ply deck that spans the rails and mount the tank to it. Now you can mount your tank and slide it in/out easily, as well as you will have room for another servo to actuate the choke, smoke system, or any other accessory you want to install. This plane can easily handle the extra weight of just about any accessory including an on-board starter! I installed a choke servo to save the cowl from ugly choke levers. I originally was going to put a smoke system on as well, but decided it was too much work. It would have fit easily though.

The cowl is attached by 3 very small wood blocks. The G26 requires considerable cutting of the sub cowl to clear the muffler and doing so weakens one of the joints for the wood cowl mounting blocks. I added 2 more blocks in the area as I am certain the original would have failed down the road. Eventually, the other wood blocks did fail, so I installed 5 blocks total, two of the originals, and 3 heavier-duty blocks. Now the cowl is rock solid.

The cavernous fuselage lends itself very nicely for an internal antenna. I ran a length of nyrod casing down the fuselage and embedded my rx antenna within. I secure the nyrod to the side of the fuse with foam rubber strips glued with CA. The antenna is routed well away from the pull-pull cables.


Conclusion: My final config ended up as follows:

Engine : Zenoah G26 Gas / Stock muffler - perfect fit / match for plane.
Rx: JR 9 Ch PCM receiver (PCM mandatory for gas / mag ign)
Battery: 1400 mah NiCd
Servos: All standard JR 537 except one Hitec 625MG for rudder pull-pull.
Servo Extensions: (2) 24 inch for ailerons through wing to radio compartment
(4) 12 inch for rx to radio compartment (to connect to wing wires)
Tail Wheel Dubro ¼ scale
Spinner Dave Brown 2 ¾ aluminum
Spinner nut Tru-Turn 8mm x 1.25mm w/8-32 x ¾ cap screw to retain spinner
Weight 14.3 pounds
Ballast none

Other accessories:
Slimline Gas Fuel Dot
Cermark remote on/off/charger switch
Batterywatch On-Board NiCd Monitor


Flying

You have seen the reviews, and have probably seen some of the threads here on RCU. For the most part, they are all true. This plane flies like a dream and very scale. It actually flies more like a real plane than you could ever imagine. Since I am used to flying warbirds and big pattern/3d planes, I actually had to learn to fly this plane!!

My first flight was somewhat daunting as I fought the sticks to set the trim and had a hard time maintaining level "hands off" flight which this bird is famous for. I thought my thrust line was off as I was constantly having to set the aileron trim to keep the plane straight with throttle changes. A quick call to Kangke (awesome guys) and it turns out what I needed was rudder trim! The rudder is the most dominant control surface with this plane (it also has the most throw and is quite large). I was not used to flying primarily with rudder (I rarely use rudder on my other birds) so it took some getting used to, but once I did so, it flew incredible. Taught me a lot on how important rudder is!


I am getting used to coordinating the turns, and flying more with rudder. Its pretty cool! Like I said, learning to fly all over again! Now that I have it trimmed, I can slow it down so slow and low people are amazed it stays in the air! Since it is a scale plane, it really flies like the real one. This is NO barnstormer! It will do big loops, emmelmans, lazy 8's, hammerhead stalls, and anything you'de expect a real plane to do, but it certainly won't torque roll, barrel roll, knife, or 3D, but then again this is a monocoupe, not an edge!! I could take off and land in a back yard if I had too!! Great flier!!

I bought this plane as a nice change of pace from the cookie cutter ARFs, and the scores of edges, extras and caps out there. So far, it is everything I thought it would be. If you can get one, It is well worth it! I will post some pics soon.

DP
Old 01-03-2004, 01:21 PM
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famousdave
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Default RE: Kangke Monocoupe 90 Build Tips

Here are a few pics of the G-26 install. Fits like a glove!!
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Old 01-03-2004, 01:22 PM
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Default RE: Kangke Monocoupe 90 Build Tips

And a few of the finished bird ready to fly.....
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Old 12-19-2021, 01:07 PM
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Just picked up on Ebay a Supercraft Monocoupe 90a ARF 96.5 inch wingspan new in box. Is it necessary to use the hinge gap material that comes with the kit to seal the gap in the ailerons and flaps? Not sure i want to do this unless absolutely necessary, any suggestions?
Old 02-25-2022, 10:45 PM
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Bob Paris
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I am in need of a set of building/assembly instructions. I a willing to pay for reproduction and shipping. I have a nice red ARF...but no instructions...please help me get this bird into the air.
Soft Landings Always,
Bob :Paris
Old 02-26-2022, 02:50 AM
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[QUOTE=Bob Paris;12717301]I am in need of a set of building/assembly instructions. I a willing to pay for reproduction and shipping. I have a nice red ARF...but no instructions...please help me get this bird into the air.
Soft Landings Always,
Bob Paris
its online, Google Supercraft Monocoupe 90A instruction manual and download pdf file. Pretty useless manual/info and out of sequence info. Build using common sense works better.
Old 02-26-2022, 11:01 AM
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Bob Paris
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Default I need assembly instructions

Would you please copy your building & assembly instructions for me. My model is missing them. I will be most happy to pay for this and shipping. 808-298-0412, land line with answer machine.
thanks,
Bob paris
Old 02-26-2022, 02:38 PM
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Bob, im newbie here on this site and need to post 10 before posting URL or photos. the PDF file you can copy for free, just google "Supercraft Monocoupe 90A Assembly Manual"" or maybe someone here can post it up for you.
Old 02-26-2022, 06:24 PM
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Old 02-26-2022, 06:24 PM
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Old 02-26-2022, 06:25 PM
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Old 02-27-2022, 05:19 AM
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Old 02-28-2022, 04:47 AM
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Bob here is the file you can download and print yourself:
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Old 03-02-2022, 09:03 PM
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Bob Paris
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Hay Mikey,
I did down load the assemble instructions...Thanks for the heads up.
Soft Landings always,
Bob Paris
Old 03-02-2022, 09:08 PM
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Bob Paris
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I took a good look at the assembly instructions and I may do a few mods to the model. One is the wing hold down bolt the is used...I must brake down the model to get it to the flying field. And I may change this to the same hardware you screw down the wings with larger wing hold down plastic nuts. I may beef up the landing gear floor a bit...and still working out how to hook up the servo's in the fuse. It is a gorgeous model...looks amazing.

What settings are you going to use for your flaps. 15% for take off and how much for landing...60+ % or more travel ?

I have an electric start EME 35cc gas engine for this model. I live at near sea level....and I do not have anything smaller to use, other than a 20cc and I doubt that will have enough power.

Soft Landings Always,
Bob

Last edited by Bob Paris; 03-02-2022 at 09:12 PM.
Old 03-08-2022, 10:58 PM
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Bob Paris
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When I start my build...I will do so here.
Aloha,
Bob Paris

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