JustGoFly.com

Thank you for the information and detail. I do have lock nuts on the wing struts and they are holding well. The only issue was the strut to the fuselage wood screw issue. Do you have a comment on the strength of the wing struts ? I hear some folks are replacing the fiberglass ones with metal ?

You can see, in previous video posted, I push mine pretty hard too and I'd hate to lose her.

I have noticed a few other guys landing their CE very fast, and originally I thought that was important. I found a HUGE improvement when I moved the weight of the 2S 3200 LiPo pack I'm using behind the wing to shift the CG backwards. You can also see the landing of my CE on the video - nice and smooth and no sign of tail heaviness. When the LiPo was in front part of the compartment the landing needed to be faster to keep from stalling.

Enjoy,
Vinnie

panagiotis.p

Ah, so your real question is about the metal brackets that hold the struts, and how these are holding on the wing itself. Still, never had a problem, BUT, I did have to tighten them quite a few times before flying. Not from flight day to another, but, lets say every 4 flight days. But this I think is because these brackets are being rotated involuntarily each time you attach the strut, and little by little they become loose. In any case, if you replace the wing struts with something else, that doesn't solve your issue, you would still have to attach that other material to the same brackets. If both your wings are securely bolt on the fuselage, and the struts sufficiently tighten, then the whole wing assembly is too massive to absorb the vibrations. I mean, you have what, 10 lock nuts, 12 wood screws and two plastic bolts that hold everything together, it seems enough. I really have bigger problems with the rudder and elevators, because these are only hanging from small hinges! The last repair I did was to replace the rudder hinges with medium robart ones...

I also attach a photo of what I was using when trying different incidences on the wings. What you see is two aluminum tubes, cut at the correct (different each time) length and flattened at the right places. I must have over 10 different pairs by now! That system was incredibly solid, but you loose something when in knife edge. Also, not that you asked for but I saw it on your video, with and without cowl, BIG BIG difference as well. Funny thing, without the cowl, the plane was flying better in any way... Who knows...

JustGoFly.com

Your logic makes sense. I am reacting to some potential misguided information about the GP CE that the top wing comes off. I don't want to propogate the myth if it is untrue. Mine flys great, with no worry of the lock nuts coming off. I put larger wood screws in the center and will keep an eye on them. I'll see how she knife edges, I oddly have not tried that on her yet. I have the Cowl on now since it's tuned in and I added a choke servo since my second flight resulted in the throttle arm coming off the engine and my having to ditch it after a perfect landing at about 20 mph. Wing needed repair, but she flys now as good as new and that choke servo will enable me to kill the engine if it ever happens again.

Thanks for the advice - the photo looks great and shows the cross struts you made.

Vinnie

CaptRKO

My Feedback: (3)

I am going to Maiden my Eagle tomorrow. Anyone ever fly one without the cowl on? I am tuning a Saito 300 twin and might try the first flight without the cowl.

NavyE6FE

Shouldn't make any difference flying wise, just don't try to get max lean, with the cowl on, the engine will run a bit warmer. So a little rich w/o the cowl should work.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

I tried to fly a EZ Eagle without the cowl once, did not turn out well, it needed the cowl for drag reduction. Fly with it on.

JustGoFly.com

Video shows cowl has little impact - but compare weight of my G62 vs your Saito twin. Mine actually was easier to land without a cowl, since it may have move the CG back very slightly. Either way it flys well with or without the cowl - IMHO.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwXdh0H2TtU

She rolls like a dream. I recommend coming in for landing with 1/4 throttle. Also I installed a servo on the choke, in case the throttle arm ever breaks free again.

My G62 is roughly 2324 grams,
Your Saito Twin is 1750 grams. SO This may account for why mine flew well without the cowl. Beware of a tail heavy plane. Check the CG and you should be fine, but maybe adding some nose weight to equal the weight of the cowl is a good idea.

CaptRKO

My Feedback: (3)

Maiden went off without a hitch! CG was right on the money and my Saito 300 Twin purred!

-I have flown a .25 size EZ Eagle, a .40 Size Pilot Eagle, a .60 Size Lyon Arf Eagle, a "large" EZ Eagle with a Moki 1.8, two Frank Knoll 38% Eagles.....and this sucker is the most scale out of all of them (oh yeah I have owned/flown 3 full size Eagles over the years....N3784S, N651M, and N93JH.

It is not a 3D plane....but it is scale and tracks/performs very nice. Perfect Sunday Airshow plane for the field. I have another NIB GP Eagles 1/3 ARF that I was going to sell but I think I will hold on to it for now.

The plane flew fine without the cowl......maybe a little more drag....carried about 1/4 power until short final then full stalled onto the ground in a 3 point attitude.


I now need to build the small GP .46 size Christen Eagle ARF......and the Seagull Mini Christen Eagle (I had a lot of kits stashed away) I think I will build the GP .46 size one first....if I can find a build thread on it?

kerwin50

I'm soooooooooooo jealous

308jockey

Interesting thread. I've been flying one of these for a couple of seasons though not often enough to really know the plane so far. Bought this one used and I believe it had a Saito 300 in it originally. Now it has an OS 160 and I think this is fairly minimal. It has enough power but I'd describe the performance as 'scale'. It has enough but vertical isn't up to some of our others. It rolls beautifully, does knife edges more easily than I expected. I think it is a little tail heavy or maybe the incidence is off a little. When flying inverted the nose wants to come up and a bit apruptly at that. Something is a little off, it just doesn't fly inverted comfortably. It's the nicest landing bipe I've ever flown but if you get it wrong it will just go bouncing down the runway. I've wondered (worried) a bit about the cabane struts. This plane usually stays together at all times as it is quite the pain in the butt to assemble. I take it all apart every 3-4 flying sessions and inspect everything. I'm not seeing anything troubling so far. We've put maybe 25 flights on it and my guess is it has fewer than 100 total. Great airplane, I'm glad we have it.

Rick H.

ortmayerm

My Feedback: (3)

I am in great need of some help from the CE community!!
I have a CE as well, but it has a sad story behind it. I have had to make some major re-repairs and before I glue up a new engine box I what to make absolute sure that my dimensions are correct. I was wondering (CaptRKO) since you have your cowl off (if it still is) if I can get some measurements from you. I have attached 2 pictures with what I need. I got this plane with a Zenoah G-38 and so all of my measurements where based off of that before I had to tear into it. Anything from anyone would help.

CaptRKO

My Feedback: (3)

Sorry I didn't see your post sooner! Do you still need the info?

ortmayerm

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, please. Thanks a bunch. I was about to give up and just glue everything together and hope i left enough room. I was worried that I would end up gluing it too far out and run out of room for a future engine upgrade. As it stands now, I'm running a G-38. I took off the spring starter and plan on switching to an elec ignition to help save on weight.

CaptRKO

My Feedback: (3)

My cowl is on and I'm on a trip for work. I may be able to get to it in a few days....I have a new in Box kit I can take a look at.

CaptRKO

My Feedback: (3)

While we are on the subject anyone have some flying wires they do not need? I am missing one.......also any wrecked Eagle's that want to sell some parts? I am flying mine a lot (100 flights so far) and want some spare parts....especially wheel pants etc...I have a NIB kit that will be my backup bird when this one reaches it's service life.

ortmayerm

My Feedback: (3)

I'm planning on making a new complete set for mine. I'm going to use the originals as template, but use stronger materials.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Just picked up a new, but built CE from a modeler with more planes than time. It came with a new Moki 2.10 engine. I prefer gas so I plan on taking out the Moki and replacing.

Any suggestions? In general, I prefer a positive power/weight ratio.

I'm considering the Saito FG-57TS which has similar weight profile as the Moki. Also thinking about the VVRC 40, but it is considerably lighter.

thoughts? recommendations?

Cheers

panagiotis.p

Well,

First of all, yes, definitely go gas with the CE. For the possible engines now:
Manual suggests the Fuji50 (if I remember correctly) which weights around 2Kg (sorry, Europe here) and is not that powerful. Depending on the built, your CE could be as much as 8-8,5Kg (fully fueled) and the Moki would just take it on the air, very scale-like. Note that manual also suggest the O.S 160 (at that time anyway) but I can hardly think that that engine would do anything.
The twin is in general a good choice for the CE, since you will have the best airflow and minor vibrations (provided the engine is well balanced). The inside of the cowl, where the cylinders would go, is around 27,5 cm (10.82 inches). See that the engine fits there without cutting it, because the cowl has a ring and you will have trouble to put it on or remove it if you have holes for the heads. I think the Saito fits, the VVRC not (don't forget the plug pipes, they add a lot). Also, as you can see, the CE has an engine box, that sets the thrust angles. The distance from the prop back is from it, and not the firewall. From what I can see at the Saito manual, you will need to make some modifications to it in order to fit the carburetor (ok, that would be a hole) and the fuel "pipes" (I don't know the exact terminology here, the pipes that take the fuel-air mixture to the combustion chamber). There, you will have to cut the walls of the engine box, and then reinforce it. That can be difficult. Plus, that engine box is really small, and not that deep, difficult to work with. Finally, the Saito is heavy. Heavier than the Fuji!!!
I have a DL50 on mine (from since DLE was called DL, and since 50 was the engine copied, not 55). I also have a TME smoke pump (installed on the firewall) and of course a smoke tank, extra batteries etc. With this setup and the DL50, and a 22x8 xoar prop, the CE flies great and has limited vertical. Limited but more than you need, you feel that it slows down, but you would back the throttle as well since you start loosing it from sight. You need the power with the CE, even if you don't use it more than 5% of your time, because, when you will need it, it must be abundant, and must get you out of trouble immediately, CE doesn't forgive.
So, my suggestion would be the Saito, after all it is an investment. I am a little concerned about the extra weight, but again, the Fuji (BT-50SB was the proposed one, I found the manual) is also around 2,5 Kg.
Hope the above helped. And, if you DO install the Saito, please post some pictures and thoughts after flight. I never liked the cut cowl I have to cope with, and I was always considering switching to a twin with a stylish muffler. I have a new uncut cowl waiting for that time. And then, DLE, instead of producing a nice 55 twin, went for the 40 and the 60... What do you know...

acerc

For what it's worth I have a CRRC 55cc twin in a Pitts. I don't know this Eagles size, but, from the above post the cowl is near identical in size, so no cut outs needed. The CRRC is a great engine, very smooth, plenty of power for my 22lb Pitts. I had reservations about buying a relatively unknown engine but have absolutely no regrets and will be getting another one shortly.

panagiotis.p

Really? Is that a reliable engine? Your Pitts is a Great Planes one, because if yes, true, they are almost identical. From the CRRC Pro site, the engine without the plug pipes has a width of 186 mm, far less than the 275 mm of the inside of the cowl.
I had a 26cc CRRC Pro engine, and it wasn't the best. Quit a lot, the muffler was soft like butter and spit oil, very messy. It did had power though, but my overall memory is negative. Glad yours works well.
Plus, I have to admit, to have the heads just behind the scale openings of the cowl is perfect.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Great feedback, thanks!

The VVRC 40 twin (small angled plug version) is 21cm wide, so it would fit. It turns a 20x8 @ 7,000 RPM which I'm guessing is comparable to the Fuji 50 10+ years ago, and it weighs 1,000g lighter! If this engine produces enough thrust without the need for a lot of ballast, it may be the way to go. That plus Valley View RC is local to me so getting support is another bonus.

Cheers

panagiotis.p

Mark, when you do install it, please weight the total, and post a flight report. I HAD to install the smoke system on mine, exactly because of the lesser weight in front (I guess balancing was designed for the Fuji). Yes, compared to the 10+ Fuji, VVRC wins, but my quick search about it didn't revealed the RPM you say. Anyway, there are other ways to add weight! I dream of a motor starter for the eagle. Would be very nice...

acerc

It is a scratch build from Andy Sheber plans.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks - the feedback is helping me short list the engines alternatives. I'm now thinking that although the VVRC 40 will fit, it may be slightly under powered to fly a high drag, heavy bi-plane and still have adequate reserve...especially if I have to add 2 lbs in weight.

I've now added the EME 55 v2 to the list. http://www.milehighrc.com/EME55CC.html

Cheers

Granpooba

My Feedback: (5)

Just wanted to congratulate all your fellows on choosing the GP Eagle. Great Planes puts out some quality models.

I just finished and flew the my Hangar 9 Christen Eagle II, powered by a Saito 1.20

Have never before assembled such a poor quality ARF. Bad enough that I will never purchase another Hangar 9 model and my next model will be a kit.