Question about position of switches?
#1

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Tom,
I noticed on my WH Edge that there are two cutouts forward of the wing, apparently for switch installation... one on port and one on starboard side.
I assume that one is for the ignition switch and the other is for the radio switch. This position is probably only about 6-8 inches from where the IGN mounts on the motor box... is this OK?
I have a BME50 with CH Ignition, and thought I needed to keep my switch, RX and battery all at a 12-14" range from the IGN? Is the RX switch OK in the position you have cutout of the side of the fuse now?
Thanks,
Tom
I noticed on my WH Edge that there are two cutouts forward of the wing, apparently for switch installation... one on port and one on starboard side.
I assume that one is for the ignition switch and the other is for the radio switch. This position is probably only about 6-8 inches from where the IGN mounts on the motor box... is this OK?
I have a BME50 with CH Ignition, and thought I needed to keep my switch, RX and battery all at a 12-14" range from the IGN? Is the RX switch OK in the position you have cutout of the side of the fuse now?
Thanks,
Tom
#3
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Those locations should be fine. On my Laser 200 with Brison 3.2 I have my ignition box mounted to the fuselage floor directly behind the firewall. I have my ignition and receiver batteries velcroed to the side of the fuse, one on each side, directly above the ignition box. The switches are mounted to the side of the fuselage 2 inches or so aft of the batteries, again one on each side. My radio never glitches and I have terrific range checks with the engine running. I do use a Bosch shielded cap on my ignition, but don't know how much of a difference this makes, if any at all. So, on the Edge I wouldn't hesitate to mount the switches where Wild Hare suggests. Good luck!
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On my planes the switches are setup with the Rx's toward the rear of the cockpit area and the Ing. up front by the cowl.
Old habit from the old school
Old habit from the old school
#5
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There are 2 switch holes in front because we use the same part for the fuse side on both left and right. It was not meant as a radio switch mount.
There are two mounts in the rear also. But I prefer to mount my switches above the wing so that the rear screw mounts into the block that supports the hatch hold down.
I've attached a photo. Do not cut into the longeron at the top of the side that runs front to back.
TF
There are two mounts in the rear also. But I prefer to mount my switches above the wing so that the rear screw mounts into the block that supports the hatch hold down.
I've attached a photo. Do not cut into the longeron at the top of the side that runs front to back.
TF
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Thanks Tom!! You da man!
One more question (for now
)...
I'm trying to find the right spinner and adapter to use on this plane with my BME 50. Any opinions? I know TruTurns are the bomb, but $$$$$$$$$$$$! Dave Brown "standard" OK?
Tom
One more question (for now

I'm trying to find the right spinner and adapter to use on this plane with my BME 50. Any opinions? I know TruTurns are the bomb, but $$$$$$$$$$$$! Dave Brown "standard" OK?
Tom
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[8D]I went with the Dave Brown spinner. If you spend the extra $10.00, he will mill out the back plate and drop 1/2 the #of the plate. Not sure if you tell him what prop you are using , he may cut it out also? Still no email from W.H. on mine ,yet[
]. But soon I hope
astro


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We sell the Dave Brown because it seems to be a reasonable compromise between quality and price.
When we sell them they are always cut for a large (Menz 22-10) prop and usually with the backplate drilled. WE don't have the backplates lightened because the Edge can use a little more weight in the nose normally.
$41.
TF
When we sell them they are always cut for a large (Menz 22-10) prop and usually with the backplate drilled. WE don't have the backplates lightened because the Edge can use a little more weight in the nose normally.
$41.
TF
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Tom, do you show these spinners on your website? I need to order one for my edge with a ZDZ 50NG. Are the backplates drilled for the six bolt hub of the ZDZ engine?
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They are shown on the price list.
Sometimes we have them drilled for the 6 bolt hub, but not at the moment. We have them undrilled, or drilled for a DA 50.
I can order one for you drilled, but drilling the backplate is easy.
Go to the hardware store and buy a 10mm bolt about 1" long, and a nut and a few washers. Bolt through the spinner backpolate and the prop washer and tighten down with the nut and washers so the whole thing is secure.
Use the prop washer as the template for drilling. Use a drill press so everything is square. If you dont have a press get someone else to help.
TF
Sometimes we have them drilled for the 6 bolt hub, but not at the moment. We have them undrilled, or drilled for a DA 50.
I can order one for you drilled, but drilling the backplate is easy.
Go to the hardware store and buy a 10mm bolt about 1" long, and a nut and a few washers. Bolt through the spinner backpolate and the prop washer and tighten down with the nut and washers so the whole thing is secure.
Use the prop washer as the template for drilling. Use a drill press so everything is square. If you dont have a press get someone else to help.
TF
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Thanks but I don't have a problem drilling the backplate. My ZDZ came with a prop drill jig thats made up the exact same way. It has a 1 inch thick hub made of steel, and a 10mm bolt with nut and washers to connect to the prop or backplate.
Easy to drill by hand but I guess I am just being lazy. I figured if i had to order a new spinner to fit a menz prop, why not have it drilled as well.
Also i thought that the backplate didn't have the 10mm hole drilled in it yet and I know if you don't drill this straight you will throw off the balance.
Easy to drill by hand but I guess I am just being lazy. I figured if i had to order a new spinner to fit a menz prop, why not have it drilled as well.
Also i thought that the backplate didn't have the 10mm hole drilled in it yet and I know if you don't drill this straight you will throw off the balance.