World Models 300 Patty Wagstaff
05-14-2005, 11:35 PM
#28
RE: World Models 300 Patty Wagstaff
I have the WM Patty 300S with a G-62 on C&H Synchrospark ignition.
The 5mm stubs that are epoxied into the LE of the wing is a joke. You gotta get your hands inside the fuse and then jam 2 nuts on to--lock it in. I have my 24 oz tank mounted on top of the wing tube and it makes getting to the 5mm bolts and studs almost impossible.
I also had a small gap at the TE of the wings.
You can strip the covering off the root of the wings and Dremel out a square hole behind the wing tube. Make sure you open the hole between the wing tube and the rear alignment pin. Go about 1/2 way between the tube and the pin.
Epoxy a hardwood block in there. Mine is 2" long and 3/4" thick. It is full depth from the bottom of the wing too the top sheeting. It's a decent sized chunk of hardwood. Resheet with balsa and sand smooth.
I drilled and tapped for a 1/4--20 bolt. I epoxied a 1/4-20 nylon bolt into the wing root. Drilled a hole in the fuse and reinforced it with a 2" square piece of hard ply--1/8" thick.
Now I just slap the wings on and use a couple nylon washers and a single nylon hex nut. Then I back up the nut with a 1/4-20 wing nut. It jams together and makes a nice tight fit. Pulls the wing root tight to the fuse--removing the gap.
I've left the 5mm studs on the LE of the wing. Works as a secondary alignment pin on the LE of the wing. You can use a single metal washer and a 5mm wingnut to jam on there if you want. The wing nut is a lot easir to get in there---as appossed to the 5mm hex nuts. If the wingnut falls off the 5mm stud--no big deal--you still got the 1/4--20 nylon attatchement jammed on behind the wing tube. My 5mm wing nuts have never fallen off--and I don't really need them--but if it works--leave it alone.
The G-62 fit perfectly. I made a lite ply tray for my RX, battery, and JR matchbox. It is glued into the bottom stringers of fuse just behind the canopy. RX is Hitec 7ch Supreme. Battery is a single 6V 2700mah niMH. The Matchbox is for my elevator servos. It's jumpered and runs off the RX battery.
C&H is strapped to the right side of the engine box and the ign. battery is strapped to the left side of the engine box. Ign. battery is 6V 1650mah niMH. Ign. switch is just behind the first former in the fuse--right behind the front hatch.
RX switch is right next to the front of the turtledeck--on the fuse side.
Plane is balanced exactly neutral and level right on the wing tube. Flies inverted with 1 click of down trim.
2 JR8231 digitals in the tail for the elevators with 4.5" H9 Titanium pro-links. A Single JR8411 digital in the tail for the rudder with a single H9 titanium pro-link to the rudder. Ailerons are JR8231 digitals. Throttle is Airtronic MG coreless Z94145. Choke is JR4721.
If you put the rudder control horn in the factory hardwood block--it will interfer with the elevator control horns at full deflections.
On the tail--the covering is white on the bottom and then a small black pinstripe before it turns to red covering. Slice the white covering on the bottom of the rudder. Cut it right at the seam between the black pinstripe and the white covering. Easy to iron back on without being noticable.
Pull the white covering back on the rudder. Cut the 1/16" sheeting away on the rudder. Start about 1/2" up and cut it all the way up about 2.5" Open up a decent 3"x3" hole in the sheeting. You will expose the stick frame inside the rudder by doing this.
Cut and shape a hardwood block and epoxy in for a new rudder control horn hardpoint. Resheet and iron the covering back on. You'll never see it. Even at 6" away. If you cut the covering right at the balck pinstripe and the white covering on the bottom of the rudder--its a good place to cut it open.
I switched all my control horns to the DuBro #866 heavy duty.
Flies fantastic. Biggest and most expensive plane I've ever had. Only abouit 15-20 flights on it and still pee my pants every time I take off. It flies so smooth and gracefull. My friend only flies 35% and 40% aerobats. I talked him into flying my Patty once and he was very impressed. He said it flew excellent and presented very big for an 80" plane. Nice compliment from a guy who doesn't have a plane under $5000 in value.
I like it very much. I needed a bit of tweeking to get it right, but it's nice. RTF with empty tank is 15.5 pounds. Engine turns a 22-10 at 7200+/- RPM with unleaded and 40:1 oil.
The 5mm stubs that are epoxied into the LE of the wing is a joke. You gotta get your hands inside the fuse and then jam 2 nuts on to--lock it in. I have my 24 oz tank mounted on top of the wing tube and it makes getting to the 5mm bolts and studs almost impossible.
I also had a small gap at the TE of the wings.
You can strip the covering off the root of the wings and Dremel out a square hole behind the wing tube. Make sure you open the hole between the wing tube and the rear alignment pin. Go about 1/2 way between the tube and the pin.
Epoxy a hardwood block in there. Mine is 2" long and 3/4" thick. It is full depth from the bottom of the wing too the top sheeting. It's a decent sized chunk of hardwood. Resheet with balsa and sand smooth.
I drilled and tapped for a 1/4--20 bolt. I epoxied a 1/4-20 nylon bolt into the wing root. Drilled a hole in the fuse and reinforced it with a 2" square piece of hard ply--1/8" thick.
Now I just slap the wings on and use a couple nylon washers and a single nylon hex nut. Then I back up the nut with a 1/4-20 wing nut. It jams together and makes a nice tight fit. Pulls the wing root tight to the fuse--removing the gap.
I've left the 5mm studs on the LE of the wing. Works as a secondary alignment pin on the LE of the wing. You can use a single metal washer and a 5mm wingnut to jam on there if you want. The wing nut is a lot easir to get in there---as appossed to the 5mm hex nuts. If the wingnut falls off the 5mm stud--no big deal--you still got the 1/4--20 nylon attatchement jammed on behind the wing tube. My 5mm wing nuts have never fallen off--and I don't really need them--but if it works--leave it alone.
The G-62 fit perfectly. I made a lite ply tray for my RX, battery, and JR matchbox. It is glued into the bottom stringers of fuse just behind the canopy. RX is Hitec 7ch Supreme. Battery is a single 6V 2700mah niMH. The Matchbox is for my elevator servos. It's jumpered and runs off the RX battery.
C&H is strapped to the right side of the engine box and the ign. battery is strapped to the left side of the engine box. Ign. battery is 6V 1650mah niMH. Ign. switch is just behind the first former in the fuse--right behind the front hatch.
RX switch is right next to the front of the turtledeck--on the fuse side.
Plane is balanced exactly neutral and level right on the wing tube. Flies inverted with 1 click of down trim.
2 JR8231 digitals in the tail for the elevators with 4.5" H9 Titanium pro-links. A Single JR8411 digital in the tail for the rudder with a single H9 titanium pro-link to the rudder. Ailerons are JR8231 digitals. Throttle is Airtronic MG coreless Z94145. Choke is JR4721.
If you put the rudder control horn in the factory hardwood block--it will interfer with the elevator control horns at full deflections.
On the tail--the covering is white on the bottom and then a small black pinstripe before it turns to red covering. Slice the white covering on the bottom of the rudder. Cut it right at the seam between the black pinstripe and the white covering. Easy to iron back on without being noticable.
Pull the white covering back on the rudder. Cut the 1/16" sheeting away on the rudder. Start about 1/2" up and cut it all the way up about 2.5" Open up a decent 3"x3" hole in the sheeting. You will expose the stick frame inside the rudder by doing this.
Cut and shape a hardwood block and epoxy in for a new rudder control horn hardpoint. Resheet and iron the covering back on. You'll never see it. Even at 6" away. If you cut the covering right at the balck pinstripe and the white covering on the bottom of the rudder--its a good place to cut it open.
I switched all my control horns to the DuBro #866 heavy duty.
Flies fantastic. Biggest and most expensive plane I've ever had. Only abouit 15-20 flights on it and still pee my pants every time I take off. It flies so smooth and gracefull. My friend only flies 35% and 40% aerobats. I talked him into flying my Patty once and he was very impressed. He said it flew excellent and presented very big for an 80" plane. Nice compliment from a guy who doesn't have a plane under $5000 in value.
I like it very much. I needed a bit of tweeking to get it right, but it's nice. RTF with empty tank is 15.5 pounds. Engine turns a 22-10 at 7200+/- RPM with unleaded and 40:1 oil.
05-15-2005, 08:28 AM
#29
My Feedback: (106)
RE: World Models 300 Patty Wagstaff
RCpilet,
it sounds like you have almost the same set-up on yours as my WM Patty and you have found out all the little niceties assisted with setting the Patty up. The only real Diff in mine is I have a very hot FPE 3.2 hung on mine. I'm just about to Fin up a 35% Giles 202 and I hope it flys half as good as the WM Patty. Mine also had the gaps in the wing to Fus fit. You would think that as nice a kit as this is they would watch things a little closer but alot of fine ARF's have that prob. It still beats working on one for months to get it in the air. Later Hooker53
it sounds like you have almost the same set-up on yours as my WM Patty and you have found out all the little niceties assisted with setting the Patty up. The only real Diff in mine is I have a very hot FPE 3.2 hung on mine. I'm just about to Fin up a 35% Giles 202 and I hope it flys half as good as the WM Patty. Mine also had the gaps in the wing to Fus fit. You would think that as nice a kit as this is they would watch things a little closer but alot of fine ARF's have that prob. It still beats working on one for months to get it in the air. Later Hooker53
09-25-2008, 04:35 PM
#30
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Join Date: Jun 2002
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RE: World Models 300 Patty Wagstaff
I owned one a couple of years ago, Fox 2.4 gasser...good flyer....sold it...."stupid"......I bought another last month.....OS Max 1.60 two stroker......BUT.....I have made a MAJOR change in the models appearence......I got Patty herself to autogragh it !......One of a kind !
