Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly
#3101
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Hey Fellows
Did most of you guys use the carbon fiber servo arms that came with the kit or did you use SWB's or any other ones??
Thanks
Did most of you guys use the carbon fiber servo arms that came with the kit or did you use SWB's or any other ones??
Thanks
#3102
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I have a question about the pull pull ruder. If I move the rudder to one side other cable comes loose. Is this normal? Both wires are tight in neutral but one side get's loose if I move the rudder either side. thanks in advance !
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I have a rudder horn question. When I try to push the horns through the rudder they don't want to slide through. The wood in between the horns also is very fragile and a piece broke and I CA'd it back on. 1...How do I get these in? 2...They only slide so far till you get to the notched piece. Do both notched pieces go on the same side? 3. Slide in from right side, or left side? 4. It says to slide the two plates on, mark, and cut covering for them. However I have 4 plates. Are there extras in the kit, or do I need to use 4 somehow? I don't want to damage the rudder any more and I am afraid that sliding the horns in and out again will do so.
Thanks for putting up with my inexperience.
ten pillows
Thanks for putting up with my inexperience.
ten pillows
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I put the notched pieces on the same side.used 2 piece plates to mount them ont the horn and the other two to paint and cover over them. I'm not sure either but doesn't see any other way.
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Thanks Charles, I don't know if it is right or not, but I got it on and the epoxy is drying now. How's your plane looking? Post some pictures when you can. We should have built our two planes as a group project. Maybe next time huh. I am going to try to fly tomorrow morning, Friday, so how's your schedule looking? See you soon. Give me a call when you can.
Mike
Mike
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I would not worry about that. Just use the smallest extension you can. Are you running the pipe? If so, you need to mount the regulator up front.
ORIGINAL: jpa2002
OK, I have a question for your guys on batteries, regulators, and switch setups.
I just ordered a setup from Fromeco, and I am happy with the quality of these products so far. Now, my question is that I ordered the reliaswitches, which are regulators and switches built into one, but they recommend that the packs be unplugged if not used for several day periods of time. OK, that is fine, but getting under the cowl to unplug the packs could be a pain. Can I run extensions from the batteries back to the reliaswitches (lets say I locate them in front of the rudder servo), and then connect them to the reliaswitches? Will I have a voltage drop resulting from the extensions that could cause issues?
Thanks
Jon
OK, I have a question for your guys on batteries, regulators, and switch setups.
I just ordered a setup from Fromeco, and I am happy with the quality of these products so far. Now, my question is that I ordered the reliaswitches, which are regulators and switches built into one, but they recommend that the packs be unplugged if not used for several day periods of time. OK, that is fine, but getting under the cowl to unplug the packs could be a pain. Can I run extensions from the batteries back to the reliaswitches (lets say I locate them in front of the rudder servo), and then connect them to the reliaswitches? Will I have a voltage drop resulting from the extensions that could cause issues?
Thanks
Jon
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Wayne - is that a 9Z I see on the bench???
LOL
LOL
ORIGINAL: wgeffon
John,
The blank sheets are transfer sheets. They are all sized to fit over each individual grahic.
Peel the backing off the transfer sheet. (blank). Lay that down over the actual graphic. Smooth out all the bubbles and now pull the graphic off its backing with the transfer sheet. Now all you have to do is lay the transfer sheet with the actual graphic in place, rub the graphic down with your finger and then pull the transfer sheet off the actual graphic.
The key to keeping the graphic in place while the transfer sheet is beign pulled up is to pull the transfer sheet 180 degrees back on itself. You dont want to just pull up on it. Peel up one corner and pull it back all the way so its touching the surface and go from there.
Does that make any sense??
Mike,
How are you doing your choke?
Drew and I are just using a piece of Nyrod that stick out the from of the cowl. Push and the choke is on pull and its off.
Simple!
John,
The blank sheets are transfer sheets. They are all sized to fit over each individual grahic.
Peel the backing off the transfer sheet. (blank). Lay that down over the actual graphic. Smooth out all the bubbles and now pull the graphic off its backing with the transfer sheet. Now all you have to do is lay the transfer sheet with the actual graphic in place, rub the graphic down with your finger and then pull the transfer sheet off the actual graphic.
The key to keeping the graphic in place while the transfer sheet is beign pulled up is to pull the transfer sheet 180 degrees back on itself. You dont want to just pull up on it. Peel up one corner and pull it back all the way so its touching the surface and go from there.
Does that make any sense??
Mike,
How are you doing your choke?
Drew and I are just using a piece of Nyrod that stick out the from of the cowl. Push and the choke is on pull and its off.
Simple!
#3108
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Ya - crazy RC and party in Manteno, IL on Aug 19, 20 and 21. Get your ***** there!
ORIGINAL: EXTREME FLIGHT
Hadn't heard about it, but if there is any way possible I will. Any more details?
Hadn't heard about it, but if there is any way possible I will. Any more details?
#3111
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I notice people are putting a 4" spinner on this plane. Looking at the pictures of the fullsize Yak it would appear to be too big if your trying to stay scale. I'd say a 3" is more appropriate. Is there a reason for this oversize spinner?
I have a 3" true turn, that weighs exactly 3 oz. Looks much more scale I think, half the price, and light weight.
JMHO
John
I have a 3" true turn, that weighs exactly 3 oz. Looks much more scale I think, half the price, and light weight.
JMHO
John
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again... Is it normal on a pull pull rudder that cable on one side is loose when turning? both wires are tight when in neutral ...
thanks in advance.
thanks in advance.
#3113

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Couple Questions:
I have the carbon spinner, with lightened back plate and a wooden prop... I am going to do everything possible to keep this thing as light as possible because I'm puttinga smoke system in... the smoke pump and battery weighs 8oz... I purposely went for the muffler instead of pipe also... I will be using duralites for ignition and rx. Also ordered two 16 oz tanks, one for smoke, in the pipe tunnel(not my idea but a great one!) and the other will go on top of the wingtube...
Do you think I'll be able to keep it under 16 pounds with this set up?
One thing I haven't seen any of you guys discussing is soldering your own extensions... I have a micro helicopter, where every gram is important... I cut down all the wires to a bare minimum to save weight. I will do this on this plane, not so much for weight, but it makes a really clean install
I read farther up that one of the first casualties on this plane was a separated servo lead...... this can be avoided! Everywhere I can, I will be shortening leads.
Any other weight saving tips?? I looked at the wheels threads...it seems like these wheels are super light as is!!!
I just have to have smoke on this bad boy, want to try to keep it light!
Mike
I have the carbon spinner, with lightened back plate and a wooden prop... I am going to do everything possible to keep this thing as light as possible because I'm puttinga smoke system in... the smoke pump and battery weighs 8oz... I purposely went for the muffler instead of pipe also... I will be using duralites for ignition and rx. Also ordered two 16 oz tanks, one for smoke, in the pipe tunnel(not my idea but a great one!) and the other will go on top of the wingtube...
Do you think I'll be able to keep it under 16 pounds with this set up?
One thing I haven't seen any of you guys discussing is soldering your own extensions... I have a micro helicopter, where every gram is important... I cut down all the wires to a bare minimum to save weight. I will do this on this plane, not so much for weight, but it makes a really clean install

Any other weight saving tips?? I looked at the wheels threads...it seems like these wheels are super light as is!!!
I just have to have smoke on this bad boy, want to try to keep it light!
Mike
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DrScores. I am installing a 17oz smoke tank right in the tuned pipe tunnel.. there was no room for the smoke tank with stock fuel tank so I went under..keeps BOTH fuel and smoke tank close to the wing tube as possible....
#3115
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Go with what you want... it's perhaps more of a personal thing...
If you have a 3", think it's more scale and like it... then by all means... as long as your prop will fit in it.
If you have a 3", think it's more scale and like it... then by all means... as long as your prop will fit in it.
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
I notice people are putting a 4" spinner on this plane. Looking at the pictures of the fullsize Yak it would appear to be too big if your trying to stay scale. I'd say a 3" is more appropriate. Is there a reason for this oversize spinner?
I have a 3" true turn, that weighs exactly 3 oz. Looks much more scale I think, half the price, and light weight.
JMHO
John
I notice people are putting a 4" spinner on this plane. Looking at the pictures of the fullsize Yak it would appear to be too big if your trying to stay scale. I'd say a 3" is more appropriate. Is there a reason for this oversize spinner?
I have a 3" true turn, that weighs exactly 3 oz. Looks much more scale I think, half the price, and light weight.
JMHO
John
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WaPilot, there are different shools of thought, I'll give you mine. if the cables are tite (just right) at neutral then it really doesn't matter if the one not pulling is slack when you move the ruddder. does anybody really beelieve the slack one should be pushing??? LOL At the point that you start using the rudder , only one cable is necessary. At neeutral you need them tite so there is no flutter. When your using the rudder it can't flutter because there is preasure on the rudder.
john
john
#3117
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ORIGINAL: WaPilot
again... Is it normal on a pull pull rudder that cable on one side is loose when turning? both wires are tight when in neutral ...
thanks in advance.
again... Is it normal on a pull pull rudder that cable on one side is loose when turning? both wires are tight when in neutral ...
thanks in advance.
Measuring the endpoints on the servo arm is easy... On the rudder control horns, measure the distance between where you have the pull-pull wires attached on the control horn to the center-line of the rudder, then multiply times 2... If they don't match, change the attachment location on the rudder control arms until the distance is the same on the rudder control horns and the servo control arm...
Hope this helps...
Mark
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Last 15 Posts - reverse chronological order
WaPilot Date 3/12/2005 1:25:40 AM
again... Is it normal on a pull pull rudder that cable on one side is loose when turning? both wires are tight when in neutral ...
thanks in advance.
WaPilot Date 3/12/2005 1:25:40 AM
again... Is it normal on a pull pull rudder that cable on one side is loose when turning? both wires are tight when in neutral ...
thanks in advance.
In order to stay tight, look a the triangle formed by the three point on the rudder: the hinge point, and the two holes where you attach your pull/pull.
Then the same triangle should exist (with the same dimensions) on the servo arm: the center of the screw, and the two holes where you attach the pull/pull.
You can easily make your own servo arm by cutting/filing/grinding a piece of aliminium, and srewing it down on a (heavy duty preferred) servo arm.
#3119
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Drscholes , go to a 3 inch carbon spinner with lightened backplate. it might be worth an ounce and look more scale taboot
John
John
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After adding the tank weight, plumbing and fill access, the smoke will add about 12 oz total (before smoke oil)...
Some people opt for the tuned pipe which is 12 oz more than the stock muffler setup... so you won't have any problems...
I'd guess you'd be at a hair over 16 lbs... no problem at all. You can always remove it if you are not happy with it.
Some people opt for the tuned pipe which is 12 oz more than the stock muffler setup... so you won't have any problems...
I'd guess you'd be at a hair over 16 lbs... no problem at all. You can always remove it if you are not happy with it.
ORIGINAL: DrScoles
Couple Questions:
I have the carbon spinner, with lightened back plate and a wooden prop... I am going to do everything possible to keep this thing as light as possible because I'm puttinga smoke system in... the smoke pump and battery weighs 8oz... I purposely went for the muffler instead of pipe also... I will be using duralites for ignition and rx. Also ordered two 16 oz tanks, one for smoke, in the pipe tunnel(not my idea but a great one!) and the other will go on top of the wingtube...
Do you think I'll be able to keep it under 16 pounds with this set up?
One thing I haven't seen any of you guys discussing is soldering your own extensions... I have a micro helicopter, where every gram is important... I cut down all the wires to a bare minimum to save weight. I will do this on this plane, not so much for weight, but it makes a really clean install
I read farther up that one of the first casualties on this plane was a separated servo lead...... this can be avoided! Everywhere I can, I will be shortening leads.
Any other weight saving tips?? I looked at the wheels threads...it seems like these wheels are super light as is!!!
I just have to have smoke on this bad boy, want to try to keep it light!
Mike
Couple Questions:
I have the carbon spinner, with lightened back plate and a wooden prop... I am going to do everything possible to keep this thing as light as possible because I'm puttinga smoke system in... the smoke pump and battery weighs 8oz... I purposely went for the muffler instead of pipe also... I will be using duralites for ignition and rx. Also ordered two 16 oz tanks, one for smoke, in the pipe tunnel(not my idea but a great one!) and the other will go on top of the wingtube...
Do you think I'll be able to keep it under 16 pounds with this set up?
One thing I haven't seen any of you guys discussing is soldering your own extensions... I have a micro helicopter, where every gram is important... I cut down all the wires to a bare minimum to save weight. I will do this on this plane, not so much for weight, but it makes a really clean install

Any other weight saving tips?? I looked at the wheels threads...it seems like these wheels are super light as is!!!
I just have to have smoke on this bad boy, want to try to keep it light!
Mike
#3121
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To support my idea about the spinner and how you can go smaller, save weight and look more scale. Take a look at this real Yak right out of the former USSR.
Measuring the picture I find the cowl to be exactly 30 mm and the spinner to be 10 mm
The cowl we have is 10 inches wide. As such a 3" spinner is more scale than a 4"
The cowl would have to be 12" wide for a 4" spinner to be scale.
You will also notice no wheel pants, for what its worth the two of them weigh 4oz.
So if you want to save about 5 oz total , go to a smaller carbon spinner with lite backplate and take off your pants.
http://www.yakuk.com/img/frontview.jpg
John
Measuring the picture I find the cowl to be exactly 30 mm and the spinner to be 10 mm
The cowl we have is 10 inches wide. As such a 3" spinner is more scale than a 4"
The cowl would have to be 12" wide for a 4" spinner to be scale.
You will also notice no wheel pants, for what its worth the two of them weigh 4oz.
So if you want to save about 5 oz total , go to a smaller carbon spinner with lite backplate and take off your pants.

http://www.yakuk.com/img/frontview.jpg
John
#3122
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Briefly back to the stab alignment, I just got my plane today
. Unpacked, inspected and checked the alignment. At first it appeared to have a low right stab. However I tried rotating the wing and stab tubes in 1/8 turn increments and found 2 positions where its perfect, while several other positions were noticably off. Not sure if anyone else tried this but if your alignment is close then it could just be variations in the carbon tubing.
Joel

Joel
#3123
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Unlikely the CF tubes are not straight...
More likely you experienced the slight play there is in the stab tube sleeve.
When you attach the stabs however, you'll "lock down" the stab tube and it won;t move much if any laterally.
More likely you experienced the slight play there is in the stab tube sleeve.
When you attach the stabs however, you'll "lock down" the stab tube and it won;t move much if any laterally.
ORIGINAL: turbo4
Briefly back to the stab alignment, I just got my plane today
. Unpacked, inspected and checked the alignment. At first it appeared to have a low right stab. However I tried rotating the wing and stab tubes in 1/8 turn increments and found 2 positions where its perfect, while several other positions were noticably off. Not sure if anyone else tried this but if your alignment is close then it could just be variations in the carbon tubing.
Joel
Briefly back to the stab alignment, I just got my plane today

Joel
#3124
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I see your point. Im not necessarily implying the tubes are bent. However, whether variation in thickness or straightness or slop, as you say, in the tube holders, some might find the plane is straight after all, just as mine seems to be. Its worth checking IMO before you make other fix.
#3125

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Ok guys, cowl mounting question..... I've got it sitting on the plane.. It seems as though the spinner has to be slightly higer than center to fit properly... Anyone else get this?? I'm certain the motor was mounted properly, just want to get some opinions before I start punching holes in the cowl
Thanks, Mike

Thanks, Mike